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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Open bleed-valves on all rads to drain C/H system completely?
I recently injected some de-sludging solution into my home central heating system. Now I need to drain and flush before refilling and adding inhibitor. Do I need to open all the bleed valves on all the rads, to allow air in during the draining process? Thank you, Drake |
#2
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Open bleed-valves on all rads to drain C/H system completely?
"Drake" wrote in message ... I recently injected some de-sludging solution into my home central heating system. Now I need to drain and flush before refilling and adding inhibitor. Do I need to open all the bleed valves on all the rads, to allow air in during the draining process? Yes - much running about :-) |
#3
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Open bleed-valves on all rads to drain C/H system completely?
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 11:08:07 +0100, "Roger Cain"
wrote: Do I need to open all the bleed valves on all the rads, to allow air in during the draining process? Yes - much running about :-) OK. Thanks.. Drake |
#4
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Open bleed-valves on all rads to drain C/H system completely?
On Oct 11, 11:08 am, "Roger Cain" wrote: "Drake" wrote in messagenews:jsapi25ihu5ap9bvs3ltmqjqcoalt0k3u8@4ax .com... I recently injected some de-sludging solution into my home central heating system. Now I need to drain and flush before refilling and adding inhibitor. Do I need to open all the bleed valves on all the rads, to allow air in during the draining process? Yes - much running about :-) LOL! Better to take it slowly and make sure you don't run and open the downstairs ones before the water level has dropped sufficiently. MBQ |
#5
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Open bleed-valves on all rads to drain C/H system completely?
On 11 Oct 2006 04:56:05 -0700, "
wrote: Do I need to open all the bleed valves on all the rads, to allow air in during the draining process? Yes - much running about :-) LOL! Better to take it slowly and make sure you don't run and open the downstairs ones before the water level has dropped sufficiently. Good advice! Gotta say, I'm really surprised at how crystal clear the water was when I drained the system after it had been running with de-sludging solution for a week! I was expecting the water to be at least slightly murky... Drake |
#6
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Open bleed-valves on all rads to drain C/H system completely?
On Oct 11, 4:49 pm, Drake wrote: On 11 Oct 2006 04:56:05 -0700, " wrote: Do I need to open all the bleed valves on all the rads, to allow air in during the draining process? Yes - much running about :-) LOL! Better to take it slowly and make sure you don't run and open the downstairs ones before the water level has dropped sufficiently. Good advice! Gotta say, I'm really surprised at how crystal clear the water was when I drained the system after it had been running with de-sludging solution for a week! I was expecting the water to be at least slightly murky... Do you have any low points (like pipes in concrete floors) that can't be drained easily? The crud could still be lurking. MBQ |
#7
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Open bleed-valves on all rads to drain C/H system completely?
On 12 Oct 2006 02:06:51 -0700, "
wrote: when I drained the system after it had been running with de-sludging solution for a week! I was expecting the water to be at least slightly murky... Do you have any low points (like pipes in concrete floors) that can't be drained easily? The crud could still be lurking. MBQ Yes indeed: Under the ground floor floorboards. Should I be concerned? I think I made the mistake of not running the system for a while before draining out the de-sludged water. The system had been turned off for 24 hours before I drained it. So I guess the suspended sludge might have settled. I probably should have run the system immediately before draining, yes? BTW, I take back what I said about the water being "crystal" clear. What came out of the hose pipe looked clear, but later, I bled about a pint from one rad (to get rid of an air lock) after refilling the system with fresh water, and it did have a very slight murkiness. Still, if there's sludge left in the system, it's probably better off lying harmlessly at the bottom of some low-lying pipes than caking up the combi boiler's expensive component's, would you say? Cheers, Drake |
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