I don't think it should do that.

The bathroom and kitchen are nearing completion. I've just put a bit of
masking tape onto the bathroom wall, to have a think about the size of
mirror we want - and it's taken the flamin' paint off as easy as you bloody
like.

I is not happy.

The walls have been back to bare brick, and plastered with bonding coat and
finish.
They were painted with Dulux white bathroom paint. The first coat was
watered down to "runnyish", then about three or four coats put on.

What have I done wrong?
Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off and
starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of paint...?

Adrian wrote:
I don't think it should do that.

The bathroom and kitchen are nearing completion. I've just put a bit
of masking tape onto the bathroom wall, to have a think about the
size of mirror we want - and it's taken the flamin' paint off as easy
as you bloody like.

I is not happy.

The walls have been back to bare brick, and plastered with bonding
coat and finish.
They were painted with Dulux white bathroom paint. The first coat was
watered down to "runnyish", then about three or four coats put on.

What have I done wrong?
Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off
and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of
paint...?

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have been
like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and horrid for
working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent coats a better
'grip'.
And don't fall for the 'bathroom' and 'kitchen' paint scam, it's just normal
paint, regardless of claims made by manufacturers and protestations by
others in this froup that it's 'special'.

"Adrian" wrote in message
. 244.170...
Phil L ) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying :

The walls have been back to bare brick, and plastered with bonding
coat and finish.
They were painted with Dulux white bathroom paint. The first coat was
watered down to "runnyish", then about three or four coats put on.

What have I done wrong?

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have
been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and
horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent
coats a better 'grip'.

THAT thin...? Oh.

and...
Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off
and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of
paint...?

if the tiles are stuck, leave em be.

if the paint is peeling off you can give it a going over with a scraper and
repaint the bits that come off. however, you might find that painting over
the paint which /thought/ was stuck was /not/ and will dampen and lift
off onto the roller as you pass over it :-(

good luck. it's probably not as bad as you think.

Phil L ) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying :

The walls have been back to bare brick, and plastered with bonding
coat and finish.
They were painted with Dulux white bathroom paint. The first coat was
watered down to "runnyish", then about three or four coats put on.

What have I done wrong?

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have
been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and
horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent
coats a better 'grip'.

THAT thin...? Oh.

and...
Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off
and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of
paint...?

Adrian wrote:
Phil L ) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying :

The walls have been back to bare brick, and plastered with bonding
coat and finish.
They were painted with Dulux white bathroom paint. The first coat
was watered down to "runnyish", then about three or four coats put
on.

What have I done wrong?

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should
have been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy,
splashy and horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives
subsequent coats a better 'grip'.

THAT thin...? Oh.

and...
Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off
and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of
paint...?

Why would you want to strip it all off and start again? - it's only because
the paint hasn't fully 'cured' that it has peeled away, and even then, only
because you attached sticky tape to it and pulled it off! - paint takes a
good few weeks to harden properly, maybe longer in a damp bathroom.

Phil L ) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying :

Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint
off and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top
of paint...?

Why would you want to strip it all off and start again? - it's only
because the paint hasn't fully 'cured' that it has peeled away, and
even then, only because you attached sticky tape to it and pulled it
off! - paint takes a good few weeks to harden properly, maybe longer
in a damp bathroom.

Ah, OK...

Might not be all doom'n'gloom, then - although it's certainly looking it at
the mo!

On Sun, 01 Oct 2006 15:20:08 GMT, "Phil L"
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

and...
Is there anything I can do short of pulling all the bloody paint off
and starting again? What about the bits that are tiled on top of
paint...?

Why would you want to strip it all off and start again? - it's only because
the paint hasn't fully 'cured' that it has peeled away, and even then, only
because you attached sticky tape to it and pulled it off! - paint takes a
good few weeks to harden properly, maybe longer in a damp bathroom.


I had some emulsion pull off with masking tape recently and that was
year old. There are two types of masking tape the 24 hr and the 7 day.
I was wondering whats the point of 24 hr if its the same price. Maybe
the 7 day is more prone to pulling off the emulsion type paints? I bet
the OP was using 7 day.

marvelus ) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying :

There are two types of masking tape the 24 hr and the 7 day.
I was wondering whats the point of 24 hr if its the same price. Maybe
the 7 day is more prone to pulling off the emulsion type paints? I bet
the OP was using 7 day.

It says "Sicad Group EuroCel" on the inside edge of the cardboard.

The tape was pulling paint off with just a quick dab, though - Total
contact time about than a second...

Adrian wrote:
marvelus ) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying :

There are two types of masking tape the 24 hr and the 7 day.
I was wondering whats the point of 24 hr if its the same price. Maybe
the 7 day is more prone to pulling off the emulsion type paints? I bet
the OP was using 7 day.

It says "Sicad Group EuroCel" on the inside edge of the cardboard.

The tape was pulling paint off with just a quick dab, though - Total
contact time about than a second...

Don't underestimate masking tape. I had it pulling the laminate off an
Ikea plinth, which was crap admittedly, but it's powerful stuff on some
surfaces.
That said, Dulux emulsion does seem full of crap these days. Too much
aggregate and not enough resin. I only use Crown these days

Phil L wrote:

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have been
like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and horrid for
working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent coats a better
'grip'.

I've always understood it should be diluted 10:1: paint:water??

David

Lobster ) gurgled happily, sounding much
like they were saying :

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should
have been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy
and horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives
subsequent coats a better 'grip'.

I've always understood it should be diluted 10:1: paint:water??

Which is what both sets of plasterers (kitchen and bathroom) said to me,
and what I did.

I'd love to see somebody trying to put 3:1 wateraint onto a ceiling...

Lobster wrote:
Phil L wrote:

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should
have been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy,
splashy and horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives
subsequent coats a better 'grip'.

I've always understood it should be diluted 10:1: paint:water??


For normal painting yes, not when you want the actual paint to soak in more
than a fraction of a mm! - the water soaks into new plaster and leaves the
pigments on the surface, and these easily peel off, if the paint is *very*
thin, more pigments get into the plaster rather than just on the surface.

Adrian wrote:
Lobster ) gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying :

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should
have been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy,
splashy and horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives
subsequent coats a better 'grip'.

I've always understood it should be diluted 10:1: paint:water??

Which is what both sets of plasterers (kitchen and bathroom) said to
me, and what I did.

I'd love to see somebody trying to put 3:1 wateraint onto a
ceiling...

Roller on a pole, brush for corners and disposable paper suit or sheet of
thin polythene.
That said, it's not usually needed, only if you intend applying and removing
tape the following day :-p

Phil L ) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying :

That said, it's not usually needed, only if you intend applying and
removing tape the following day :-p

About three weeks later...

Adrian ) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
were saying :

That said, it's not usually needed, only if you intend applying and
removing tape the following day :-p

About three weeks later...

thinks
Two weeks. Damn near exactly.

"Phil L" wrote in message
. uk...
Lobster wrote:
Phil L wrote:

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should
have been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy,
splashy and horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives
subsequent coats a better 'grip'.

I've always understood it should be diluted 10:1: paint:water??


For normal painting yes, not when you want the actual paint to soak in
more than a fraction of a mm! - the water soaks into new plaster and
leaves the pigments on the surface, and these easily peel off, if the
paint is *very* thin, more pigments get into the plaster rather than just
on the surface.


and isn't there more than one type of masking tape ? Low tack stuff for some
jobs ?

Nick

Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have
been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and
horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent coats a
better 'grip'.

I find just 30% water works just fine, with a quality paint.

And don't fall for the 'bathroom' and 'kitchen' paint scam, it's just
normal paint, regardless of claims made by manufacturers and protestations
by others in this froup that it's 'special'.

It depends on the brand. Some really is very different, usually because it
uses a high quality acrylic copolymer base, rather than PVA copolymer.

However, for new plaster, I would use a specific new plaster paint, such as
Dulux Supermatt (there are equivalents in other manufacturers' ranges). I
would then consider a tougher acrylic paint in a year or two, once the
plaster is really dry.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Paint will always do this on new plaster...your first coat should have
been like p!$$, IE 3 parts water to 1 part paint, messy, splashy and
horrid for working with but it soaks right in and gives subsequent coats a
better 'grip'.

I find just 30% water works just fine, with a quality paint.

I find Crown works straight from the tin. It has a thinner consistency
to start with, but this doesn't seem to affect the coverage in
subsequent coats.


And don't fall for the 'bathroom' and 'kitchen' paint scam, it's just
normal paint, regardless of claims made by manufacturers and protestations
by others in this froup that it's 'special'.

It depends on the brand. Some really is very different, usually because it
uses a high quality acrylic copolymer base, rather than PVA copolymer.

However, for new plaster, I would use a specific new plaster paint, such as
Dulux Supermatt (there are equivalents in other manufacturers' ranges). I
would then consider a tougher acrylic paint in a year or two, once the
plaster is really dry.

Christian.