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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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![]() The more I look at the average urban and suburban sprawl the more I feel that actually what we should be doing is putting the roads deep down, the houses just under the surface with light pipes and the gardens and parks on top...Hobbiton? possibly :-) What do you think are the pros and cons of this from a cost/benefit environmental and general living feeling? |
#2
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Costs of excavation (especialling tunneling for roads $$$).
Somewhere to put the spoil. Very large amounts of concrete used. Vulnerability to flooding. Earth sheltered housing has a lot going for it - but will be the option of the well off - can't be done for the price of starter homes. |
#3
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The more I look at the average urban and suburban sprawl the more I feel that actually what we should be doing is putting the roads deep down, the houses just under the surface with light pipes and the gardens and parks on top...Hobbiton? possibly :-) What do you think are the pros and cons of this from a cost/benefit environmental and general living feeling? This has been suggested as an approach to dealing with much higher population levels in future. You can have much higher density housing below the surface yet retain a green countryside appearance above. You can have fields orchards and houses occupying the same space. If on todays housing estates houses occupy 1/3 or 1/4 the area, undergruond they could occupy almost 100%, tripling or quadrupling density. The biggest problem is cost. Building a house underground requires a far stronger structure than one on the ground. There are also additional costs such as soundproofing for houses under roads, drainage, fire escapes, climate control, etc. The requirement for window area also means that above ground wont be clutter free, and cant be used like a ploughed field. It can however be used for some growing applications. The inability to look out the window is very undesirable to most people, though periscope windows are a possibility. Tunnels are vastly more expensive than surface roads, and having roads on the surface with houses underground would support far more population than all on top as now. In the distant future, as populatoin rises even more, roads underground might become desirable too. Such roadways could be on a different level than the housing, so one could have separate fully packed layers of roads, housing, factories, and basic services. Lets say (havent checked figures now, just ballparking) that 5% of British land is built on, and out of that the house occupies 33% of that land. Converting to underground housing on 2 storeys would then give us an increase in total housing area of around 60 times the present house area. Nearly everything comes down to cost in the end, and the cost of doing this today on a mass scale is prohibitive. Its also not well enough accepted to support good sale prices for such properties. It also brings more disadvantage than advantage in reality, though when populations are 50x as large it may be the other way round. NT |
#4
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#5
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![]() The Natural Philosopher wrote: The more I look at the average urban and suburban sprawl the more I feel that actually what we should be doing is putting the roads deep down, the houses just under the surface with light pipes and the gardens and parks on top...Hobbiton? possibly :-) What do you think are the pros and cons of this from a cost/benefit environmental and general living feeling? Cons ==== o Damp/drainage. o Radon, and other heavier than air poisonous and toxic gases. o Sewerage and waste water disposal becomes more difficult. Either considerably deeper, and therefore more expensive, or widespread use of S*n*f*o*s. Oh joy. o Careful insulation required, otherwise heating bills will skyrocket as you try to heat up the surrounding earth. Cheers, Sid |
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#8
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The more I look at the average urban and suburban sprawl the more I feel that actually what we should be doing is putting the roads deep down, the houses just under the surface with light pipes and the gardens and parks on top...Hobbiton? possibly :-) What do you think are the pros and cons of this from a cost/benefit environmental and general living feeling? You would certainly save on heating costs as the ground temp a couple of metres down is pretty constant. In fact with all the latest gov. ideas in underground thermal storage, it may not need any at all john2 |
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#10
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![]() The Natural Philosopher wrote: The more I look at the average urban and suburban sprawl the more I feel that actually what we should be doing is putting the roads deep down, the houses just under the surface with light pipes and the gardens and parks on top...Hobbiton? possibly :-) I can't help thinking of David Essex as the Artilleryman in War of the Worlds We'll build shops and hospitals and barracks right under their noses - right under their feet! Everything we need - banks, prisons and schools... We'll send scouting parties to collect books and stuff, and men like you'll teach the kids. Not poems and rubbish - science, so we can get everything working. We'll build villages and towns and... and... we'll play each other at cricket! |
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#12
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john2 wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote: The more I look at the average urban and suburban sprawl the more I feel that actually what we should be doing is putting the roads deep down, the houses just under the surface with light pipes and the gardens and parks on top...Hobbiton? possibly :-) What do you think are the pros and cons of this from a cost/benefit environmental and general living feeling? You would certainly save on heating costs as the ground temp a couple of metres down is pretty constant. In fact with all the latest gov. ideas in underground thermal storage, it may not need any at all john2 I've mislaid my building regs, but IIRC a meter of rock is about the same as 50mm of celotex..and so I guess 4 ft of soil would be somewhat better. No: getting it cool and dry and ventilated would be the problems - not heating. |
#13
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The message .com
from contains these words: If its done as a one off house, yes it costs, though jcbs make that not excessive any more. But if it were done en masse, one would only need to excavate a foot or so, build the layer of housing then put the soil on top of them. Or, if you fancy a grand scheme, try this one from 1931... http://blog.modernmechanix.com/2006/...y-earthquakes/ Or this bloke from the 30s as well... http://blog.modernmechanix.com/2006/...ng-as-a-hobby/ -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#14
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![]() The Natural Philosopher wrote: wrote: The Natural Philosopher wrote: o Sewerage and waste water disposal becomes more difficult. Either considerably deeper, and therefore more expensive, or widespread use of S*n*f*o*s. Oh joy. No..my solutiuon was to cut and cover and raise the average ground level by say 50%..as long as the water course retained their places - usually at valley floors - no problem with rainwater. Sewage is simply a matter of running te sewers lower than the houses - as is done in london anyway under the embankment - and puumping up to the works...thats standard practice in any low lying aresa. Not quite. The average depths of sewers will be lower, so cost more to fault find later. inital installation may well be the same as now, if you are cut-and-covering. o Careful insulation required, otherwise heating bills will skyrocket as you try to heat up the surrounding earth. I think you should think that one through..carefully..I would say that heat and moisture buildup, not cold, is the problem. Been on the tube lately? Of course, it depends how deep you go - far enough down and the rock is molten! However, at reasonable depths, the temperature is relatively constant, and lower than the standard 18-25 degrees centigrade many people are most comfortable at. Humidity will be a problem, although ventilation will help. The earth does have large thermal inertia, so to start of with, moisture will condense on the walls like crazy, unless ventilation is adequate. After lots of heat input, the walls (and floor, and roof) will have heated up to a comfortable temperature. The problem then is to avoid overheating (like the underground, as you say). A lot of this is climate dependant - in a hot, dry, climate massive walls and sunken homes are an advantage. In a cold, wet, climate, a layer of sodden earth at between zero and 10 degrees centigrade against the walls of your dwelling makes it No Fun At All. Hence, decent isolation/insulation is required, otherwise you will be trying to heat the groundwater. You'll be looking at needing cavity walls, floor and ceiling - not a bad idea for drainage anyway - increasing construction costs. You'll need to ensure the drainage does not get blocked, otherwise the cavity will become a nice cold water jacket. Allowing for reasonable access for this will start to get expensive. Most of the water in the UK is hard water, so the drainage cavity will start to fill up with limescale deposits - even more fun to get rid of. Cheers, Sid |
#16
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Some practical economics of getting it to work:
Greenfield sites are cheaper to build on than brownfield. Flat land is cheaper to build on than not. Low water table/low susceptability to flooding is good. Moderately dense, well drained stony/gravelly soils is probably best (sand requires too much proping of excavations, clay is unstable, rock requires blasting and may trap water) In city areas it would be more difficult to acheive compatability with existing services and flood drainage as well as having a large enough site to be economic. Ideal would be an edge of town site for a new estate - somewhere where there's a well-heeled population to support higher costs, and somewhere with current overpopulation problems e.g Cambridge. Better still if you can get greenbelt land on the basis that the development will be largely hidden from view. e.g. Cambridge - North of the A14 Given all the above, a cut-and-shut earth sheltered housing estate might be economically feasable - especially if you can get a bit of government assistance to pioneer it. Gas, oil or solid fuel heating is probably out - unless it's open one side, earth sheltered rather then underground houses. That said, passive houses (no additional heating required) may be possible. Underground roads require lots of forced ventilation. Underground fires/vehicle accidents are a special hazard. Probably not worth the cost as yet. Underground parking ramps would be a particular flood-route hazard. Whatever you do - you MUST get the nod from mortgage and home insurance companies - without that, you'll struggle to sell any of them. There's a need for continuous electrcity supply to run forced ventilation - possibly battery backed for power cuts. You would probably need to include an insurance-backed warranty that the properties will be dampfree. You might need to offer a guaranteed buy-back price to inspire consumer confidence. AIUI earth sheltered/underground housing - the concrete has to be thick - as the soil backfill will sink and apply greater and greater pressureover the years. To keep concrete quantities reasonable, casting concrete against the exacavation wall (and one sided shuttering) is undesirable as the quantities are significantly increased. So double sided shuttering is prefered, but does require a lot of proping if there's no convenient pit walls to brace against. Earth sheltered has the advantage of solar gain - and with good design, the concrete mass to act as a thermal store. Finally you will need a local authority that's keen to support the project, and a developer willing to take an unknown financial risk - when there's probably plenty of safer investments about. |
#17
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![]() Been on the tube lately? The tube is heated by all the traction motors of the trains. The tunnel air continuously flushed through by the trains themselves. |
#18
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#19
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![]() Well, being a simple country boy, I'm up for that... or something similar anyway: double-dig urbania - and add a bl**dy great load of 'orse muck to sweeten the soil Regards, Keith PS Many thanks for your help with the my floor tiling question the other day. "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The more I look at the average urban and suburban sprawl the more I feel that actually what we should be doing is putting the roads deep down, the houses just under the surface with light pipes and the gardens and parks on top...Hobbiton? possibly :-) What do you think are the pros and cons of this from a cost/benefit environmental and general living feeling? |
#20
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![]() "Owain" wrote in message ... ... Everybody buys houses with the "utility room" off the kitchen, so all the clothes and linens get carried down from the bedrooms upstairs, washed and dried, then carried back upstairs again. The house with an upstairs laundry-room or even a laundry chute is a rarity, even though with modern washing machines putting the laundry room next to rooms little-used during the day would not be a noise issue.... I've turned my third bedroom into a utility room, but a lot of people do their washing at night, to use off-peak electricity for heating the water, so noise would be an issue for them. Colin Bignell |
#21
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The message
from Huge contains these words: Also the town of Coober Pedy in Australia; http://www.gluckman.com/CooberPedy.Australia.html The summer temperatures and the availability of free opal workings are the driver there. That and there isn't a whole lot to look at, so the absence of windows is no big deal. What? Scenery like this http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/new...-auscoober.jpg not worth looking at? Are you mad? -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#22
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![]() Huge wrote: On 2006-09-14, Peter Lynch wrote: As a reference have a google for the cave houses in spain, around the town of Guadix. Briefly, they are dug out of the local soft rock (shale) and have walls *at least* 5 feet thick. A lot of them are over 100 years old and are still "standing". The first thing you notice is the quiet - there's literally no noise except that made by people/appliances in the house. A lot of people find that too spooky, or claustrophobic. They also tend to have much narrower temperature swings: staying cooler in summer (even in Andalucia, where outside temps. hit 40+) and very well insulated in winter. Also the town of Coober Pedy in Australia; http://www.gluckman.com/CooberPedy.Australia.html The summer temperatures and the availability of free opal workings are the driver there. That and there isn't a whole lot to look at, so the absence of windows is no big deal. -- "Other people are not your property." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] Take a look at the climate data for Coober Pedy he URL:http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tables/cw_016007.shtml It's a desert. Subterranean buildings work well when it is hot and dry. There's an interesting set of examples he URL:http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/courses/arch140/2006/Documents/Lectures/PDFs/2006%20pdfs/04Lect_ThermalMass_GB_2006%20-%20slides.pdf#search=%22climate%20data%20guadix%22 Now there are examples of semi-subternnaean homes used in northern climes: Viking Farmhouses in Iceland, pre-celtic stone houses in the Orkneys; and even in modern times the Norwegians and Swedes do have turf-roof houses, but subterranean houses where it is cool and damp don't work well without a lot of expensive work to prevent water penetration. For an example (perhaps overkill) try: "Before the house was backfilled, specialized waterproof roofing materials consisting of 3/16" thick Bentonite rolls, 18" wide rolls of Bituthane, a felt-like drain mat, and finally two layers of protective 1" thick foam, were applied. Bentonite is a clay-like substance that will expand up to 22 times its original size on contact with water. Because of the tremendous pressure of the backfilled earth pressing against this roofing material, the Bentonite (which is covered with industrialized rubber) is so tightly compacted that, if any water was to come into contact with it, the expanding effect will effectively and permanently seal the leak. Any water that does make its way down to the roof will be absorbed by the felt drain mat and effectively wicked down to the French drain system that completely surrounds the entire structure. The two layers of 1" thick foam sheets serves as a protective barrier to prevent sharp rocks from puncturing the Bentonite roofing." This is from "The Ultimate Secure Home" - which is simply earth covered, and not subterranean. Full details are he URL:http://ultimatesecurehome.com/secure_home_amenities.htm Don't underestimate water's ability to penetrate where you don't want. Cheers, Sid |
#23
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#24
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wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote: wrote: The Natural Philosopher wrote: o Sewerage and waste water disposal becomes more difficult. Either considerably deeper, and therefore more expensive, or widespread use of S*n*f*o*s. Oh joy. No..my solutiuon was to cut and cover and raise the average ground level by say 50%..as long as the water course retained their places - usually at valley floors - no problem with rainwater. Sewage is simply a matter of running te sewers lower than the houses - as is done in london anyway under the embankment - and puumping up to the works...thats standard practice in any low lying aresa. Not quite. The average depths of sewers will be lower, so cost more to fault find later. inital installation may well be the same as now, if you are cut-and-covering. o Careful insulation required, otherwise heating bills will skyrocket as you try to heat up the surrounding earth. I think you should think that one through..carefully..I would say that heat and moisture buildup, not cold, is the problem. Been on the tube lately? Of course, it depends how deep you go - far enough down and the rock is molten! However, at reasonable depths, the temperature is relatively constant, and lower than the standard 18-25 degrees centigrade many people are most comfortable at. Humidity will be a problem, although ventilation will help. The earth does have large thermal inertia, so to start of with, moisture will condense on the walls like crazy, unless ventilation is adequate. After lots of heat input, the walls (and floor, and roof) will have heated up to a comfortable temperature. The problem then is to avoid overheating (like the underground, as you say). A lot of this is climate dependant - in a hot, dry, climate massive walls and sunken homes are an advantage. In a cold, wet, climate, a layer of sodden earth at between zero and 10 degrees centigrade against the walls of your dwelling makes it No Fun At All. Hence, decent isolation/insulation is required, otherwise you will be trying to heat the groundwater. You'll be looking at needing cavity walls, floor and ceiling - not a bad idea for drainage anyway - increasing construction costs. You'll need to ensure the drainage does not get blocked, otherwise the cavity will become a nice cold water jacket. Allowing for reasonable access for this will start to get expensive. Most of the water in the UK is hard water, so the drainage cavity will start to fill up with limescale deposits - even more fun to get rid of. You don't understand about insulation do you? Cheers, Sid |
#26
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![]() wrote: wrote: URL:http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/courses/arch140/2006/Documents/Lectures/PDFs/2006%20pdfs/04Lect_ThermalMass_GB_2006%20-%20slides.pdf#search=%22climate%20data%20guadix%22 Now there are examples of semi-subternnaean homes used in northern climes: Viking Farmhouses in Iceland, pre-celtic stone houses in the Orkneys; and even in modern times the Norwegians and Swedes do have turf-roof houses, but subterranean houses where it is cool and damp don't work well without a lot of expensive work to prevent water penetration. The Viking farmhouses in Iceland were not underground at all and they were built of timber, the later turf houses were also not underground in any sense either. Góðan dag sigvald. Coming from .is, you ought to know. However, as I understand it, there is/was little timber in Iceland, so as little as possible was used in construction. The method, as far as I know, was to find a low hill and dig into it, or failing that, just dig a hole in the ground. This was lined with stone. The above ground walls were made of turf, as was the roof, minimising the use of timber. The house was not fully underground - more like half, and as the wall and roof were made of turf, it would look almost as though the house were just a small hillock. Possibly I'm confusing farmhouses, built if timber was more plentiful, with pit-houses, but the principle of a half-sunk (semi-subterranean) house holds. I'm certainly not trying to say that long-houses were half-sunk. If I'm wrong, please do say. Sid |
#27
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![]() The Natural Philosopher wrote: o Careful insulation required, otherwise heating bills will skyrocket as you try to heat up the surrounding earth. The earth does have large thermal inertia, so to start of with, moisture will condense on the walls like crazy, unless ventilation is adequate. After lots of heat input, the walls (and floor, and roof) will have heated up to a comfortable temperature. The problem then is to avoid overheating (like the underground, as you say). A lot of this is climate dependant - in a hot, dry, climate massive walls and sunken homes are an advantage. In a cold, wet, climate, a layer of sodden earth at between zero and 10 degrees centigrade against the walls of your dwelling makes it No Fun At All. Hence, decent isolation/insulation is required, otherwise you will be trying to heat the groundwater. You'll be looking at needing cavity walls, floor and ceiling - not a bad idea for drainage anyway - increasing construction costs. You'll need to ensure the drainage does not get blocked, otherwise the cavity will become a nice cold water jacket. Allowing for reasonable access for this will start to get expensive. Most of the water in the UK is hard water, so the drainage cavity will start to fill up with limescale deposits - even more fun to get rid of. You don't understand about insulation do you? Apparently not. What specifically do you think I'm not grasping? I'm willing to learn. Sid |
#28
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![]() wrote: wrote: wrote: URL:http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/courses/arch140/2006/Documents/Lectures/PDFs/2006%20pdfs/04Lect_ThermalMass_GB_2006%20-%20slides.pdf#search=%22climate%20data%20guadix%22 Now there are examples of semi-subternnaean homes used in northern climes: Viking Farmhouses in Iceland, pre-celtic stone houses in the Orkneys; and even in modern times the Norwegians and Swedes do have turf-roof houses, but subterranean houses where it is cool and damp don't work well without a lot of expensive work to prevent water penetration. The Viking farmhouses in Iceland were not underground at all and they were built of timber, the later turf houses were also not underground in any sense either. Góðan dag sigvald. Coming from .is, you ought to know. However, as I understand it, there is/was little timber in Iceland, so as little as possible was used in construction. The method, as far as I know, was to find a low hill and dig into it, or failing that, just dig a hole in the ground. This was lined with stone. The above ground walls were made of turf, as was the roof, minimising the use of timber. The house was not fully underground - more like half, and as the wall and roof were made of turf, it would look almost as though the house were just a small hillock. Possibly I'm confusing farmhouses, built if timber was more plentiful, with pit-houses, but the principle of a half-sunk (semi-subterranean) house holds. I'm certainly not trying to say that long-houses were half-sunk. If I'm wrong, please do say. About housebuilding in Iceland you are very wrong, houses were never built into hills or in a hole in the ground. Houses were always built above ground to get rid of the rainwater. The houses were built with wood in framework and the fronts were of timber but the outer walls were of stone and/or turf and turf was used in the roof. Timber was abundant in Iceland when the country was settled (ca 25% tree cover) and there was a usable timber supply until the 19th century (augmented by driftwood) to enable buildings to be built partly of timber though longer beams would have to be imported in the later centuries. |
#29
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... wrote: wrote: wrote: URL:http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/courses/arch140/2006/Documents/Lectures/PDFs/2006%20pdfs/04Lect_ThermalMass_GB_2006%20-%20slides.pdf#search=%22climate%20data%20guadix%22 Now there are examples of semi-subternnaean homes used in northern climes: Viking Farmhouses in Iceland, pre-celtic stone houses in the Orkneys; and even in modern times the Norwegians and Swedes do have turf-roof houses, but subterranean houses where it is cool and damp don't work well without a lot of expensive work to prevent water penetration. The Viking farmhouses in Iceland were not underground at all and they were built of timber, the later turf houses were also not underground in any sense either. Góðan dag sigvald. Coming from .is, you ought to know. However, as I understand it, there is/was little timber in Iceland, so as little as possible was used in construction. The method, as far as I know, was to find a low hill and dig into it, or failing that, just dig a hole in the ground. This was lined with stone. The above ground walls were made of turf, as was the roof, minimising the use of timber. The house was not fully underground - more like half, and as the wall and roof were made of turf, it would look almost as though the house were just a small hillock. Possibly I'm confusing farmhouses, built if timber was more plentiful, with pit-houses, but the principle of a half-sunk (semi-subterranean) house holds. I'm certainly not trying to say that long-houses were half-sunk. If I'm wrong, please do say. About housebuilding in Iceland you are very wrong, houses were never built into hills or in a hole in the ground. Houses were always built above ground to get rid of the rainwater. The houses were built with wood in framework and the fronts were of timber but the outer walls were of stone and/or turf and turf was used in the roof. Timber was abundant in Iceland when the country was settled (ca 25% tree cover) and there was a usable timber supply until the 19th century (augmented by driftwood) to enable buildings to be built partly of timber though longer beams would have to be imported in the later centuries. some reconstructions showing the building methods at: http://www.hurstwic.org/history/arti...urf_Houses.htm -- Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not) |
#30
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![]() Bob Mannix wrote: wrote in message oups.com... wrote: wrote: wrote: URL:http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/courses/arch140/2006/Documents/Lectures/PDFs/2006%20pdfs/04Lect_ThermalMass_GB_2006%20-%20slides.pdf#search=%22climate%20data%20guadix%22 Now there are examples of semi-subternnaean homes used in northern climes: Viking Farmhouses in Iceland, pre-celtic stone houses in the Orkneys; and even in modern times the Norwegians and Swedes do have turf-roof houses, but subterranean houses where it is cool and damp don't work well without a lot of expensive work to prevent water penetration. The Viking farmhouses in Iceland were not underground at all and they were built of timber, the later turf houses were also not underground in any sense either. Góðan dag sigvald. Coming from .is, you ought to know. However, as I understand it, there is/was little timber in Iceland, so as little as possible was used in construction. The method, as far as I know, was to find a low hill and dig into it, or failing that, just dig a hole in the ground. This was lined with stone. The above ground walls were made of turf, as was the roof, minimising the use of timber. The house was not fully underground - more like half, and as the wall and roof were made of turf, it would look almost as though the house were just a small hillock. Possibly I'm confusing farmhouses, built if timber was more plentiful, with pit-houses, but the principle of a half-sunk (semi-subterranean) house holds. I'm certainly not trying to say that long-houses were half-sunk. If I'm wrong, please do say. About housebuilding in Iceland you are very wrong, houses were never built into hills or in a hole in the ground. Houses were always built above ground to get rid of the rainwater. The houses were built with wood in framework and the fronts were of timber but the outer walls were of stone and/or turf and turf was used in the roof. Timber was abundant in Iceland when the country was settled (ca 25% tree cover) and there was a usable timber supply until the 19th century (augmented by driftwood) to enable buildings to be built partly of timber though longer beams would have to be imported in the later centuries. some reconstructions showing the building methods at: http://www.hurstwic.org/history/arti...urf_Houses.htm -- Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not) Thank-you very much Sigvald and Bob - and that link is very interesting. The vikings certainly did construct pit-houses, as well as the type shown in such beautiful detail in the link. A little Googling tells me that they were possibly primarily used for textile making, rather than as dwelling-houses. I guess I must have seen reconstructed ones at either Ribe or Leira (both in Denmark). Here's a (boring) picture of a reconstructed Viking pit-house (perhaps better called a pit-workshop). URL:http://www-staff.it.uts.edu.au/~jenny/photos/ausden/slides/repro%20grassed%20Viking%20pit%20house.html And pit-houses were used in other cultures - see: URL:http://www.civilization.ca/cmc/archeo/cvh/bc/v77-26.htm URL:http://www.spoerlein.f2s.com/pithouse.html URL:http://www.primtech.net/kiva/kiva.html Sigvald is quite right about water ingress - the last paragraph of Bob's link is telling: "During a visit in 2005, I noticed water running out from under the turf walls on the outside of the foundation. Water from the roof is supposed to run in the channel between the outer and inner turf walls and from there, directly into the ground, so finding water running on the outside was an unexpected surprise." Cheers, Sid |
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![]() The Natural Philosopher wrote: wrote: The Natural Philosopher wrote: o Careful insulation required, otherwise heating bills will skyrocket as you try to heat up the surrounding earth. The earth does have large thermal inertia, so to start of with, moisture will condense on the walls like crazy, unless ventilation is adequate. After lots of heat input, the walls (and floor, and roof) will have heated up to a comfortable temperature. The problem then is to avoid overheating (like the underground, as you say). A lot of this is climate dependant - in a hot, dry, climate massive walls and sunken homes are an advantage. In a cold, wet, climate, a layer of sodden earth at between zero and 10 degrees centigrade against the walls of your dwelling makes it No Fun At All. Hence, decent isolation/insulation is required, otherwise you will be trying to heat the groundwater. You'll be looking at needing cavity walls, floor and ceiling - not a bad idea for drainage anyway - increasing construction costs. You'll need to ensure the drainage does not get blocked, otherwise the cavity will become a nice cold water jacket. Allowing for reasonable access for this will start to get expensive. Most of the water in the UK is hard water, so the drainage cavity will start to fill up with limescale deposits - even more fun to get rid of. You don't understand about insulation do you? Apparently not. What specifically do you think I'm not grasping? I'm willing to learn. That once upo to temperautire, 4 foot of wet earth or 8 foot of masonry is as good an insulator as 50mm of celotex. And in fact its a damned sight better as a thermal store. Aah! I see. Thank-you. I agree completely that a 4 foot thickness of wet earth can potentially be a good thermal store. How good it is as an insulator, I'm not sure. I'm pretty certain a 4 foot thickness of dry earth would be better. I'm sure someone (possibly even you) may have tables that include the numbers comparing celotex, wet earth, dry earth, straw, concrete, you name it. A quick Google gives: "Dry materials are better insulators since water is a good conductor - so dry insulation is better than wet insulation. That's especially important with earth-insulated buildings. Here are some very rough approximate r-values of materials per inch of thickness: Dry earth: 0.33 per inch Wet earth: 0.05 per inch Wood: 1.25 per inch (assume the same for cardboard - not the corrugated kind but solid cardboard) Fiberglass insulation: 3.5 per inch Styrofoam: 5.0 per inch (use packing material or cut up a Styrofoam cup) So in order to compare a house wall with 3 inches of fiberglass insulation and 1/2 inch of plywood siding (total r-value of 11.125) to the same r-value of earth-sheltering, you'd need about 36 inches of dry earth. Once the earth wet, you'd need 222 inches (18 feet) to get the same effect." The problem is that water tends to move through wet earth - having heated the water up, it's difficult to guarantee that it will stay in the same place, unless you take measures like enclosing the wet earth in a water-tight membrane of some type. If it is not enclosed at the top, heating it above ambient will mean you increase the evaporation rate. Ground-water movement also means it will be replaced by cooler water at varying rates depending on the environment. I'm not saying you can't make it work, the point I was alluding to about needing 'decent isolation/insulation' was simply that you will have to take special measures. As an afterthought, here's a page from CSIRO, admittedly talking about rammed earth URL:http://www.csiro.au/files/mediaRelease/mr2000/RammedEarth.htm My, tentative, conclusion is that you would want to use something other than just plain in-situ earth as an insulator in a subterranean home - possibly your 50mm of Celotex. Regards, Sid |
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