Morning all,

While renovating the lounge I preinstalled some flush sockets before
plastering. This meant that I had two wires for each socket waiting to
be connected to the ring main. Last night I joined the spiders
underneath the floor and tried to connect everything up but failed and
now I have no power on the ground floor. I'll try to give as much
detail as I can and hopefully someone can give me some advice.

The consumer unit, which was replaced a couple of months ago, is in one
corner of the room and the existing cable goes around three walls, in
and out of the sockets on it's way and then exits into the cellar.
Nothing complicated. The new sockets are close to the existing ones so
all I did was cut into the existing cable in a couple of places and
join it up to the new cable with 30Amp connector blocks. This "joined
up" cable followed the same route around the 3 walls, in and out of the
new sockets. Flicked the MCB on - no power! I checked all of the
connector blocks and everything was tightly connected, then checked all
sockets and they were wired up correctly. At about midnight I decided
enough was enough and so reverted back to the original wiring by
rejoining up all of the cuts I made with the connector block. Still
nothing!! How hard is it to go wrong with a connector block? Is there
anything else which could be causing the problem? Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers,
Matt

RatRibs73 wrote:
Morning all,

While renovating the lounge I preinstalled some flush sockets before
plastering. This meant that I had two wires for each socket waiting to
be connected to the ring main. Last night I joined the spiders
underneath the floor and tried to connect everything up but failed and
now I have no power on the ground floor. I'll try to give as much
detail as I can and hopefully someone can give me some advice.

The consumer unit, which was replaced a couple of months ago, is in
one corner of the room and the existing cable goes around three
walls, in and out of the sockets on it's way and then exits into the
cellar. Nothing complicated. The new sockets are close to the
existing ones so all I did was cut into the existing cable in a
couple of places and join it up to the new cable with 30Amp connector
blocks. This "joined up" cable followed the same route around the 3
walls, in and out of the new sockets. Flicked the MCB on - no power!
I checked all of the connector blocks and everything was tightly
connected, then checked all sockets and they were wired up correctly.
At about midnight I decided enough was enough and so reverted back to
the original wiring by rejoining up all of the cuts I made with the
connector block. Still nothing!! How hard is it to go wrong with a
connector block? Is there anything else which could be causing the
problem? Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers,
Matt

You have omitted to inspect the spiders as well?

personally I think your a cowboy by using connector blocks to lenghten the
cable,how will these blocks be hidden?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
RatRibs73 wrote:
Morning all,

While renovating the lounge I preinstalled some flush sockets before
plastering. This meant that I had two wires for each socket waiting to
be connected to the ring main. Last night I joined the spiders
underneath the floor and tried to connect everything up but failed and
now I have no power on the ground floor. I'll try to give as much
detail as I can and hopefully someone can give me some advice.

The consumer unit, which was replaced a couple of months ago, is in
one corner of the room and the existing cable goes around three
walls, in and out of the sockets on it's way and then exits into the
cellar. Nothing complicated. The new sockets are close to the
existing ones so all I did was cut into the existing cable in a
couple of places and join it up to the new cable with 30Amp connector
blocks. This "joined up" cable followed the same route around the 3
walls, in and out of the new sockets. Flicked the MCB on - no power!
I checked all of the connector blocks and everything was tightly
connected, then checked all sockets and they were wired up correctly.
At about midnight I decided enough was enough and so reverted back to
the original wiring by rejoining up all of the cuts I made with the
connector block. Still nothing!! How hard is it to go wrong with a
connector block? Is there anything else which could be causing the
problem? Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers,
Matt

You have omitted to inspect the spiders as well?

personally I think your a cowboy by using connector blocks to lenghten the
cable,how will these blocks be hidden?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?




--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
. uk...
RatRibs73 wrote:
Morning all,

While renovating the lounge I preinstalled some flush sockets before
plastering. This meant that I had two wires for each socket waiting to
be connected to the ring main. Last night I joined the spiders
underneath the floor and tried to connect everything up but failed and
now I have no power on the ground floor. I'll try to give as much
detail as I can and hopefully someone can give me some advice.

The consumer unit, which was replaced a couple of months ago, is in
one corner of the room and the existing cable goes around three
walls, in and out of the sockets on it's way and then exits into the
cellar. Nothing complicated. The new sockets are close to the
existing ones so all I did was cut into the existing cable in a
couple of places and join it up to the new cable with 30Amp connector
blocks. This "joined up" cable followed the same route around the 3
walls, in and out of the new sockets. Flicked the MCB on - no power!
I checked all of the connector blocks and everything was tightly
connected, then checked all sockets and they were wired up correctly.
At about midnight I decided enough was enough and so reverted back to
the original wiring by rejoining up all of the cuts I made with the
connector block. Still nothing!! How hard is it to go wrong with a
connector block? Is there anything else which could be causing the
problem? Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers,
Matt

You have omitted to inspect the spiders as well?

personally I think your a cowboy by using connector blocks to lenghten the
cable,how will these blocks be hidden?


You must understand that:

A) It's quite hard to go wrong with a connector block and you clearly have
so you could not be described as a "competent person"

B) This sort of tale is part of the reason "they" got away with foisting
part P on us

C) We don't like part P, ergo Sir BM's comments demonstrating that those who
cause it to be foisted upon us are not liked either!

There is no magic involved. The circuit is either connected or it isn't. If
there is no power at a socket, then there isn't a connection to it. You
won't get any other advice than drawing up what you think you have made the
circuit into and checking that is correct and then checking that that is
actually what you have done. If you have a strong constitution, you could
give us a link to some photos of your connections. Most people here will
flame (if they think it is justified) and then try and follow with advice


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

DO: Insulation and continuity test the wiring. If you don't have the
means to, should you really be meddling?

DON'T: Use connector blocks - if, as I think you mean, it's "chocolate
block" rather than junction boxes. In fact there should be no need for
junctions, but continuous cable between sockets.

How you've managed to disable the existing sockets GOK - you should
have a split ringmain at least. You need a continuity tester, not "suck
it and see".

"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...


?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?


I have a feeling I'm going to regret this, but - used insulating tape for
what, exactly?


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?

PMSL - yeah right - choccy block is just fine for fixed wiring - NOT!

Are you perhaps a Troll trying to wind us all up?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?

I wouldn't regard chocolate blocks wrapped in insulation tape to be
acceptable. For this application, I would use crimped connections, with each
conductor insulated with heatshrink tubing and then the entire sheath
insulated with larger bore heatshrink tubing.

Alternatively, I would use chocolate block if it was (a) likely to remain
accessible for inspection and (b) entirely contained within a suitable
plastic enclosure.

As to why the circuit has stopped working, you probably connected a live to
a neutral or earth somewhere and have blown something apart.

Christian.

RatRibs73 wrote:
Morning all,

While renovating the lounge I preinstalled some flush sockets before
plastering. This meant that I had two wires for each socket waiting to
be connected to the ring main. Last night I joined the spiders
underneath the floor and tried to connect everything up but failed and
now I have no power on the ground floor. I'll try to give as much
detail as I can and hopefully someone can give me some advice.

The consumer unit, which was replaced a couple of months ago, is in one

I've got a hunch....

If you only disconnected the circuit at the MCB, then then it's possible
that you tripped the RCD when cutting through the wire. I'm guessing
that the new CU is a split load.

And if you finished at midnight it's also possible that you didn't
notice the RCD had tripped, and didn't notice that any of the other
circuits on it also had no power.

Ben

corner of the room and the existing cable goes around three walls, in
and out of the sockets on it's way and then exits into the cellar.
Nothing complicated. The new sockets are close to the existing ones so
all I did was cut into the existing cable in a couple of places and
join it up to the new cable with 30Amp connector blocks. This "joined
up" cable followed the same route around the 3 walls, in and out of the
new sockets. Flicked the MCB on - no power! I checked all of the
connector blocks and everything was tightly connected, then checked all
sockets and they were wired up correctly. At about midnight I decided
enough was enough and so reverted back to the original wiring by
rejoining up all of the cuts I made with the connector block. Still
nothing!! How hard is it to go wrong with a connector block? Is there
anything else which could be causing the problem? Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers,
Matt

Bob Mannix wrote:
"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...


?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?


I have a feeling I'm going to regret this, but - used insulating tape for
what, exactly?


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Wrapped the connector block in it and then placed that into the
chocblock. I must say that for a forum that is supposed to be for
DIY'ers to ask for advice you all seem to be hell bent on making those
of us who need help feel pretty stupid or telling us not to bother. I'm
after some clear advice, not to be judged. Things go slightly wrong
from time to time. Please don't tell me if I'm competent or not. I've
wired plugs, sockets, light fittings many times without problems, I
even wired my shower and CH in before the regs came in. No problems at
all and all done within regs as I researched what I had to do. A
connector block is not beyond me. This I can't explain though. I was
hoping there was an experienced person on here who had come up with a
similar problem and could give me some direction. I'm still
waiting......All I seem to have got so far is opinions.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?

I wouldn't regard chocolate blocks wrapped in insulation tape to be
acceptable. For this application, I would use crimped connections, with each
conductor insulated with heatshrink tubing and then the entire sheath
insulated with larger bore heatshrink tubing.

Alternatively, I would use chocolate block if it was (a) likely to remain
accessible for inspection and (b) entirely contained within a suitable
plastic enclosure.

As to why the circuit has stopped working, you probably connected a live to
a neutral or earth somewhere and have blown something apart.

Christian.

Thanks, Christian. I agree, the connections are accesible and are
contained in an enclosure which is why I decided to use the choc
blocks. Can you expand on what you mean by blown something apart?

Cheers,
Matt

Ben Blaukopf wrote:

I've got a hunch....

If you only disconnected the circuit at the MCB, then then it's possible
that you tripped the RCD when cutting through the wire. I'm guessing
that the new CU is a split load.

And if you finished at midnight it's also possible that you didn't
notice the RCD had tripped, and didn't notice that any of the other
circuits on it also had no power.

Ben


Checked it, Ben. RCD wasn't tripped. I ended up using an extension lead
from upstairs to save the contents of the fridge freezer so have got
power to other parts of the house.

Cheers,
Matt

If you only disconnected the circuit at the MCB, then then it's possible
that you tripped the RCD when cutting through the wire. I'm guessing
that the new CU is a split load.

But it worked when he reverted to the original circuit so the RCB can't
have tripped. Nor can he have damaged the MCB or the wiring. And I
can't think of anyway of miswiring the new sockets that wouldn't trip
the MCB or RCCB.

As for the spleen vented on the poor old OP: that is totally
unjustified. He came on here for help with what I see as a very
curious fault. If you can't offer advice then you should keep your
mouths shut. Part P was not foisted on us because of people like the
OP. It was foisted on us because of lobbying by industry groups who
dislike losing work to DIYers. And that lobbying fell on the very
receptive ears of a government that loves micromanaging everything.

Ok -let's backpeddle a bit. Sorry for launching into one, the initial
post gave me cause for concern. I can't see your installation, and
usually chocolate block would only be used in an enclosure as some sort
of wiring centre - I'm still not sure why you didn't use continuous
cable runs. All connections would then be above floor level then and
easier to diagnose.

The way forward is some sort of test instrument. Basic voltemeter and
continuity testers are dirt cheap now (although wiring regs say you
should insulation test as well).

Some long leads on your meter and you can probe to find where the
break(s) are in the ring (whilst isolated of course), and that at least
you can see a large resistance between the conductors. This should
really have been done prior to re-energising the ring for the first
time.

If that's all good, then we have to figure the problem is is in the
consumer unit.

Checked it, Ben. RCD wasn't tripped. I ended up using an extension lead
from upstairs to save the contents of the fridge freezer so have got
power to other parts of the house.

A live to neutral (or even earth) fault may have produced enough fault
current to blow the MCB apart. Above a certain level (usually 6kA), it is
possible to have a situation where the MCB trips, but burns out internally.

Christian.

But it worked when he reverted to the original circuit so the RCB can't
have tripped.

Read again.

Christian.

dcbwhaley wrote:
If you only disconnected the circuit at the MCB, then then it's possible
that you tripped the RCD when cutting through the wire. I'm guessing
that the new CU is a split load.

But it worked when he reverted to the original circuit so the RCB can't
have tripped. Nor can he have damaged the MCB or the wiring. And I
can't think of anyway of miswiring the new sockets that wouldn't trip
the MCB or RCCB.

As for the spleen vented on the poor old OP: that is totally
unjustified. He came on here for help with what I see as a very
curious fault. If you can't offer advice then you should keep your
mouths shut. Part P was not foisted on us because of people like the
OP. It was foisted on us because of lobbying by industry groups who
dislike losing work to DIYers. And that lobbying fell on the very
receptive ears of a government that loves micromanaging everything.

Thanks for that! Ask a simple question and you get treated like an
idiot! Not what I expected. Hey ho!

Just a point though - it didn't work when I reverted back to the
original circuit. That is what has completely baffled me. Didn't know
if there was some diagnostic procedure I could go through to locate the
fault. Before I grab the Yellow Pages....

Christian McArdle wrote:
Checked it, Ben. RCD wasn't tripped. I ended up using an extension lead
from upstairs to save the contents of the fridge freezer so have got
power to other parts of the house.

A live to neutral (or even earth) fault may have produced enough fault
current to blow the MCB apart. Above a certain level (usually 6kA), it is
possible to have a situation where the MCB trips, but burns out internally.



6kA would require a fault loop impedance of 0.04 ohms which seems pretty
unlikely.

Ben

RatRibs73 wrote:
Bob Mannix wrote:
"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...
?
Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?

I have a feeling I'm going to regret this, but - used insulating tape for
what, exactly?


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Wrapped the connector block in it and then placed that into the
chocblock. I must say that for a forum that is supposed to be for
DIY'ers to ask for advice you all seem to be hell bent on making those
of us who need help feel pretty stupid or telling us not to bother.

With respect, to utterly fail to make contact enough on a simple job
like this betrays some deep level of misunderstanding somewhere..we are
merely trying to probe the extent of your knowledge to see where it
fails to accord with reality ;-)

I'm
after some clear advice, not to be judged. Things go slightly wrong
from time to time. Please don't tell me if I'm competent or not. I've
wired plugs, sockets, light fittings many times without problems, I
even wired my shower and CH in before the regs came in. No problems at
all and all done within regs as I researched what I had to do. A
connector block is not beyond me. This I can't explain though. I was
hoping there was an experienced person on here who had come up with a
similar problem and could give me some direction. I'm still
waiting......All I seem to have got so far is opinions.


Get a meter and with the power off start checking continuity from the
consumer unit all the way round the ring..short of using a HF
reflectometer there is no better way to identify where the open circuits
are..

wrote:
Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?

PMSL - yeah right - choccy block is just fine for fixed wiring - NOT!

It is, if its acessible.

Are you perhaps a Troll trying to wind us all up?

Christian McArdle wrote:
Checked it, Ben. RCD wasn't tripped. I ended up using an extension lead
from upstairs to save the contents of the fridge freezer so have got
power to other parts of the house.

A live to neutral (or even earth) fault may have produced enough fault
current to blow the MCB apart. Above a certain level (usually 6kA), it is
possible to have a situation where the MCB trips, but burns out internally.

Christian.

Thanks.

Would I have been able to smell burning? I didn't btw but just thought
I'd ask.

Could a live to neutral/ earth fault arise in the connector block? I've
left the block as a strip of 3 and wrapped that in insulating tape. Are
you saying the current may have "jump" between wires? Perhaps wrapping
each connector individually may be better?

Cheers,
Matt

6kA would require a fault loop impedance of 0.04 ohms which seems pretty
unlikely.

It can happen if you are near a substation. Obviously, closer to 2kA is more
normal, although a faulty MCB could also damage itself on a lower fault
current.

Christian.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:


With respect, to utterly fail to make contact enough on a simple job
like this betrays some deep level of misunderstanding somewhere..we are
merely trying to probe the extent of your knowledge to see where it
fails to accord with reality ;-)


No problem. Yes - I can put a piece of wire into a connector strip and
use a screwdriver to fix it in place. I am not colour blind nor am I
stupid - I refrained from licking the wires to test them. I am NOT and
never have been a qualified electrician. I do have a baffling problem
and would like some advice.


Get a meter and with the power off start checking continuity from the
consumer unit all the way round the ring..short of using a HF
reflectometer there is no better way to identify where the open circuits
are..

Thank you very much. How easy was that?

Bob Mannix wrote:
"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...


?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?


I have a feeling I'm going to regret this, but - used insulating tape for
what, exactly?


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

**** you've got me worried now, my wiring, installed by one of those
professional electricicians, is full of connecing blocks and insulating
tape. Do I have to condem it all?

Kevin

"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...

Bob Mannix wrote:
"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...


?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?


I have a feeling I'm going to regret this, but - used insulating tape for
what, exactly?


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Wrapped the connector block in it and then placed that into the
chocblock. I must say that for a forum that is supposed to be for
DIY'ers to ask for advice you all seem to be hell bent on making those
of us who need help feel pretty stupid or telling us not to bother. I'm
after some clear advice, not to be judged. Things go slightly wrong
from time to time. Please don't tell me if I'm competent or not. I've
wired plugs, sockets, light fittings many times without problems, I
even wired my shower and CH in before the regs came in. No problems at
all and all done within regs as I researched what I had to do. A
connector block is not beyond me. This I can't explain though. I was
hoping there was an experienced person on here who had come up with a
similar problem and could give me some direction. I'm still
waiting......All I seem to have got so far is opinions.

Well, first (to answer another point) I said non-competent persons were
"part" of the reason part P was foisted on us. I am well aware the other
part was industry lobbying.

Second, I suggested that making such simple connections shouldn't be hard
and demonstrated you are not a "competent person" (ie in the meaning of the
act). I would submit that most people would regard a "competent person" as
someone who could extend a ring main without problems.

Third, I then went on to suggest drawing up the circuit, checking it
thoroughly, checking what you had actually done and perhaps posting some
pictures.

I am still not entirely certain how to visualize "Wrapped the connector
block in [insulating tape] and then placed that into the chocblock" and be
certain I got it right. You might say "simple enough" and so it should be
but it aint working, so it clearly isn't! Without certainty about what you
have actually done, it's difficult to give advice (not that that will stop
anyone).

If you don't want opinions, ng's aren't the place for you ) but I believe
I gave more than just opinions and don't recall telling you not to bother,
merely explained why some might get a bit shirty.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

The message
from The Natural Philosopher contains these words:

Get a meter and with the power off start checking continuity from the
consumer unit all the way round the ring..short of using a HF
reflectometer there is no better way to identify where the open circuits
are..

I can't help thinking that given the circumstances the first thing to do
is get a meter and establish whether there are volts downstream of the
closed MCB. A failed MCB would account for all the symptoms.

--
Roger Chapman

"Kev" wrote in message
ups.com...

Bob Mannix wrote:
"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...


?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?


I have a feeling I'm going to regret this, but - used insulating tape for
what, exactly?


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

**** you've got me worried now, my wiring, installed by one of those
professional electricicians, is full of connecing blocks and insulating
tape. Do I have to condem it all?

Kevin


I don't see why, I believe I asked what he had used it for rather than
condemned it!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

"RatRibs73" wrote in message
oups.com...
Morning all,

While renovating the lounge I preinstalled some flush sockets before
plastering. This meant that I had two wires for each socket waiting to
be connected to the ring main. Last night I joined the spiders
underneath the floor and tried to connect everything up but failed and
now I have no power on the ground floor. I'll try to give as much
detail as I can and hopefully someone can give me some advice.

The consumer unit, which was replaced a couple of months ago, is in one
corner of the room and the existing cable goes around three walls, in
and out of the sockets on it's way and then exits into the cellar.
Nothing complicated. The new sockets are close to the existing ones so
all I did was cut into the existing cable in a couple of places and
join it up to the new cable with 30Amp connector blocks. This "joined
up" cable followed the same route around the 3 walls, in and out of the
new sockets. Flicked the MCB on - no power! I checked all of the
connector blocks and everything was tightly connected, then checked all
sockets and they were wired up correctly. At about midnight I decided
enough was enough and so reverted back to the original wiring by
rejoining up all of the cuts I made with the connector block. Still
nothing!! How hard is it to go wrong with a connector block? Is there
anything else which could be causing the problem? Anyone got any ideas?

And folk on this NG wonder why Part P was brought in.

Personally I'm a firm supporter is Part P ... only problem is, it doesnt go
far enough !

I can't help thinking that given the circumstances the first thing to do
is get a meter and establish whether there are volts downstream of the
closed MCB. A failed MCB would account for all the symptoms.

And MCBs do fail from time to time, even without wiring faults. And
the time they tend to fail is often after they have been manually
tripped (last straw for a failing retainer). OP could check this by
swapping to another, known good, MCB in the consumer unit. But only
after he has made sure that there is no short circuit in his new wiring.

Kev wrote:
Bob Mannix wrote:
"RatRibs73" wrote in message
ups.com...


?

Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are
securely fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is
also secured with cable clips and they are all easily accessible.
I'm a DIY'er and these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a
cowboy?


I have a feeling I'm going to regret this, but - used insulating
tape for what, exactly?


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

**** you've got me worried now, my wiring, installed by one of those
professional electricicians, is full of connecing blocks and
insulating tape. Do I have to condem it all?

Kevin

Was this a full rewire? if so then you could hardly give him the badge of
*Professional* otherwise there would be no reason to use connector blocks.

When I done some contracting work the blokey I worked for stipulated on no
account use connector blocks if need be hack the wall/floor away but dont
bloody use connector blocks.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

**** you've got me worried now, my wiring, installed by one of those
professional electricicians, is full of connecing blocks and insulating
tape. Do I have to condem it all?

Personally, I would, unless the connecting blocks are in an enclosure.
Insulation tape will only last a couple of years before getting tired and
falling off.

Christian.

Bob Mannix wrote:

Second, I suggested that making such simple connections shouldn't be hard
and demonstrated you are not a "competent person" (ie in the meaning of the
act). I would submit that most people would regard a "competent person" as
someone who could extend a ring main without problems.
--


If the whole fault is due to not being able to make these connections
then I will admit I'm not competent. The point is that it has not been
ascertained whether the fault is in the connections. Please be aware
that I researched how to make connections and whether the materials I
used were suitable.

Last night I couldn't understand how can a simple connection be at
fault and reasoned that there must be something else wrong - hence the
post. Making connections are not difficult for me. But I had an
UNEXPECTED PROBLEM that IMO could happen to any competent person.

The upshot is that you labeled me as incompetent based on a simple
question. I take exception to that.

Gizmo wrote:
"RatRibs73" wrote in message
oups.com...
Morning all,

While renovating the lounge I preinstalled some flush sockets before
plastering. This meant that I had two wires for each socket waiting to
be connected to the ring main. Last night I joined the spiders
underneath the floor and tried to connect everything up but failed and
now I have no power on the ground floor. I'll try to give as much
detail as I can and hopefully someone can give me some advice.

The consumer unit, which was replaced a couple of months ago, is in one
corner of the room and the existing cable goes around three walls, in
and out of the sockets on it's way and then exits into the cellar.
Nothing complicated. The new sockets are close to the existing ones so
all I did was cut into the existing cable in a couple of places and
join it up to the new cable with 30Amp connector blocks. This "joined
up" cable followed the same route around the 3 walls, in and out of the
new sockets. Flicked the MCB on - no power! I checked all of the
connector blocks and everything was tightly connected, then checked all
sockets and they were wired up correctly. At about midnight I decided
enough was enough and so reverted back to the original wiring by
rejoining up all of the cuts I made with the connector block. Still
nothing!! How hard is it to go wrong with a connector block? Is there
anything else which could be causing the problem? Anyone got any ideas?

And folk on this NG wonder why Part P was brought in.

Personally I'm a firm supporter is Part P ... only problem is, it doesnt go
far enough !

FFS!

The message
from "Christian McArdle" contains
these words:

**** you've got me worried now, my wiring, installed by one of those
professional electricicians, is full of connecing blocks and insulating
tape. Do I have to condem it all?

Personally, I would, unless the connecting blocks are in an enclosure.
Insulation tape will only last a couple of years before getting tired and
falling off.

The old fashioned canvas backed stuff is obviously made of sterner
stuff. When I recently swapped my previous collection of MCBs for a spit
load setup I had to track down cross-over between a light circuit
neutral and a ring main neutral that had been in place since before I
moved here in 1978. Whoever had wired up an outside light had cut into
the ring main to get a neutral and had made the junction with a heavy
duty choc block wrapped in insulation tape. The tape was still secure.

I no doubt took rather longer to rewire it than the cowboy professional
(my predecessor who undertook the original modernisation was a jobbing
builder) who did the original shoddy work but ironically I used
significantly less wire than he did.

--
Roger Chapman

wrote:
Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?

PMSL - yeah right - choccy block is just fine for fixed wiring - NOT!

Are you perhaps a Troll trying to wind us all up?



Do you know, I feel like I've come on here and asked whether employing
four Bosnian refugees to live under my floor and hold the wires
together with their teeth is within regs.....

By ChocBloc I mean the plastic enclosure which holds the connector
strip, not the connector strip itself. There is nothing wrong with
using them as long as they are accessible. I challenge you to prove me
wrong.

The message .com
from "RatRibs73" contains these words:

How hard is it to go wrong with a connector block?

Well, starting off by using one in the first place is a good start.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Do you know, I feel like I've come on here and asked whether employing
four Bosnian refugees to live under my floor and hold the wires
together with their teeth is within regs.....

Provided their work permits are in order and you pay them the minimum
wage, that's fine.

By ChocBloc I mean the plastic enclosure which holds the connector
strip, not the connector strip itself. There is nothing wrong with
using them as long as they are accessible. I challenge you to prove me
wrong.

This is what I undesrtand as chocolate block:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...47062&id=17672

From your original description, I'm envisioning this wrapped in tape
with the cables clipped to a joist in the underfloor void?

I'm still not clear why you didn't use continuous cable runs or failing
that, conventional junction boxes.

You would of course need 6 Bosnians for 2 junctions with phase, neutral
and cpc.

RatRibs73 wrote:

wrote:
Used insulating tape, and placed them in ChocBlocks which are securely
fastened to the joists. The cable either side of these is also secured
with cable clips and they are all easily accessible. I'm a DIY'er and
these meet IEE regulations so how can I be a cowboy?

PMSL - yeah right - choccy block is just fine for fixed wiring - NOT!

Are you perhaps a Troll trying to wind us all up?



Do you know, I feel like I've come on here and asked whether employing
four Bosnian refugees to live under my floor and hold the wires
together with their teeth is within regs.....

By ChocBloc I mean the plastic enclosure which holds the connector
strip, not the connector strip itself. There is nothing wrong with
using them as long as they are accessible. I challenge you to prove me
wrong.

I think there is a confusion of terms here.

To me (and to most people here I suspect) a Choc[olate]Block is a
nylon strip of screwdown connectors, usually white[ish]. It's called
a Chocolate Block because it's vaguely the same shape as a strip
broken off a bar of chocolate.

I *suspect* (but I'm not quite sure) that you mean a Junction Box when
you say ChocBloc. A Junction Box is (usually) a round bakelite type
box with terminals inside it.

--
Chris Green

On 13 Sep 2006 11:52:36 GMT, wrote:


|
|To me (and to most people here I suspect) a Choc[olate]Block is a
|nylon strip of screwdown connectors, usually white[ish]. It's called
|a Chocolate Block because it's vaguely the same shape as a strip
|broken off a bar of chocolate.

A *long* time ago it used to be made from Bakelite which was the colour of
chocolate. I think I still have a bit somewhere ;-)
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

If you are as competernt at making connections as your postings suggest
then check the MCB.

When you have done that report back to the jury, presided over by the
hanging judge the Duke of Derby.