What kind of drill bit do I need for a) slate and b) granite? (I have a
small drill press)

How do I proceed - one hole, or several - drilling out gradually to
increase the diameter of the hole? I need to drill out a hole of about
8mm.

Any difficulties I should forsee, like slate splitting?

Do I need water cooling? Depth of slate would be either 10mm or 20mm.
Is this fairly fast or very slow and laborious? How is granite compared
to slate?

Thanks - never drilled into these materials before. Andy

Grunff wrote:
Eusebius wrote:
What kind of drill bit do I need for a) slate and b) granite? (I
have a small drill press)

How do I proceed - one hole, or several - drilling out gradually to
increase the diameter of the hole? I need to drill out a hole of
about 8mm.

Any difficulties I should forsee, like slate splitting?

Do I need water cooling? Depth of slate would be either 10mm or 20mm.
Is this fairly fast or very slow and laborious? How is granite
compared to slate?

Thanks - never drilled into these materials before. Andy


Slate is easy and very forgiving - just use a masonry bit.

I wouldn't.

an 8mm HSS would be more suitable or even an old wood bit.

Eusebius wrote:
What kind of drill bit do I need for a) slate and b) granite? (I have a
small drill press)

How do I proceed - one hole, or several - drilling out gradually to
increase the diameter of the hole? I need to drill out a hole of about
8mm.

Any difficulties I should forsee, like slate splitting?

Do I need water cooling? Depth of slate would be either 10mm or 20mm.
Is this fairly fast or very slow and laborious? How is granite compared
to slate?

Thanks - never drilled into these materials before. Andy


Slate is easy and very forgiving - just use a masonry bit. You won't
need cooling. A pilot hole will make it easier to get the hole exactly
where you want it, but is unnecessary if you can clamp the workpiece. It
should only take you a couple of minutes.

Granite is much, much, much harder. I'd use a masonry SDS (assuming the
same depth and hole size), starting with a 4mm and working up to an 8mm.
But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.


--
Grunff

But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.

In terms of splitting, is granite better or worse than slate? I'm
considering using one or other for a face plate for a diy hi-fi
amplifier. If there's a risk of splitting, I presume I need to use an
aluminium plate behind it for structural reasons, and glue the slate to
the alu (???what glue). Prefer to avoid it - what do you suggest?

Eusebius wrote:

What kind of drill bit do I need for a) slate and b) granite? (I have a
small drill press)

They're chalk and cheese.

Slate will make holes if you stare at it hard. Your problem is to avoid
it splitting. Granite is really hard work and you need just the right
tools. Slate is also highly variable - Lakeland slate is almost like
granite, South Wales slates is flakey junk and a nightmare, North Wales
slate is somewhere in between -- prone to splitting, but reasonably
hard and stable.

For slate I'd suggest non-hammer drilling with an abrasive drill bit
for large holes, or a simple glass drill carbide leaf bit for small
holes. Any drill should cope, even hand drills, but watch out for
wobble causing splitting. Slate should be supported underneath with
soft scrap wood or heavy corrugated cardboard over wood if uneven

For a small number of 8mm holes in softer slate, I'd use a sacrifical
twist drill and expect heavy wear on it. One of the brad-point wood
drill bits with twist flutes but outside spurs as well, ideally TiN
coated, will drill slate well and gives a good edge. Use your drill
press for rigidity (those brad points are hard to start by hand, until
the points sink). You can drill it with normal metalworking twist
drills too, but expect heavy wear.

If you use a masonry drill and non-hammer action, then sharpen it
first. Most masonry drills are sharpened with impact chisel edges, not
cutting edges. For slate it will matter.

Granite can be drilled with an SDS masonry drill and hammer action,
more slowly with a non-SDS hammer drill, or non-hammer with a diamond
core drill for large holes. So you probably can't use your bench drill
for any of these. Diamond drilling of granite may need coolants, extra
slow speed, or high torque (with a safety clutch). Ask the drill bit
maker.

You can also chain drill granite, then break out between holes with a
chisel. This is for 1 1/2" and upwards though, not small holes.

For 8mm holes in granite, then I'd use a standard masonry bit and SDS.
There'll be chipping around the edge though, maybe 15mm affected
radius. If you _must_ have a smooth hole, go with wet diamond. Try to
drill from both sides, as you'll see even more chipping on the exit
hole.

Wet coolants need to be generous, or else they just make a sticky paste
that grabs onto the drill. I probably wouldn't bother, except for
diamond in granite, production in slate, or if your diamond drill maker
recommended it.

On 6 Sep 2006 05:13:02 -0700, "Eusebius"
wrote:

But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.

In terms of splitting, is granite better or worse than slate? I'm
considering using one or other for a face plate for a diy hi-fi
amplifier. If there's a risk of splitting, I presume I need to use an
aluminium plate behind it for structural reasons, and glue the slate to
the alu (???what glue). Prefer to avoid it - what do you suggest?

Ebonite's rather nice for front panels.

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland

Eusebius wrote:
But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.

In terms of splitting, is granite better or worse than slate?

They are totally different and break in different ways. Slate
delaminates, splitting along the layers. Granite just breaks.


I'm
considering using one or other for a face plate for a diy hi-fi
amplifier. If there's a risk of splitting, I presume I need to use an
aluminium plate behind it for structural reasons, and glue the slate to
the alu (???what glue). Prefer to avoid it - what do you suggest?

Presumably your 8mm holes are for mounting pots, switches, indicators
etc? Which means you'll need a few of them? I would use slate, without a
doubt. It'll be much less work. No need for a backing plate.


--
Grunff

The message . com
from "Eusebius" contains these words:

Do I need water cooling? Depth of slate would be either 10mm or 20mm.
Is this fairly fast or very slow and laborious?

Slate's dead easy. Use plenty of water or you'll end up with dry clayey
mud gluing the whole thing up. No hammer, unless you want to end up with
it all in bits.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Frank Erskine wrote:
On 6 Sep 2006 05:13:02 -0700, "Eusebius"
wrote:

But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.

In terms of splitting, is granite better or worse than slate? I'm
considering using one or other for a face plate for a diy hi-fi
amplifier. If there's a risk of splitting, I presume I need to use an
aluminium plate behind it for structural reasons, and glue the slate to
the alu (???what glue). Prefer to avoid it - what do you suggest?

Ebonite's rather nice for front panels.

surely thats been unobtainium for a long time. Does anyone still make
it? Also I'd think slate or granite much nicer. Marble can be pretty
too, though its weak stuff.


NT

Eusebius wrote:
What kind of drill bit do I need for a) slate and b) granite? (I have a
small drill press)

How do I proceed - one hole, or several - drilling out gradually to
increase the diameter of the hole? I need to drill out a hole of about
8mm.

Any difficulties I should forsee, like slate splitting?

Do I need water cooling? Depth of slate would be either 10mm or 20mm.
Is this fairly fast or very slow and laborious? How is granite compared
to slate?

Thanks - never drilled into these materials before. Andy

Try your local plumber's or tiling or kitchen/bathroom
retailer/merchant.
I had to drill through porcelain and granite tiles on my last job and
the 'spade' shaped bits were useless. I ended buying a diamond crusted
bit which worked beautifully... no stressing or straining... no burning
or 'glowing' of the bit or material.

have a look here...
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/shopscr3098.html

HTH,
deano.

On 6 Sep 2006 15:29:45 -0700, wrote:

Frank Erskine wrote:
On 6 Sep 2006 05:13:02 -0700, "Eusebius"
wrote:

But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.

In terms of splitting, is granite better or worse than slate? I'm
considering using one or other for a face plate for a diy hi-fi
amplifier. If there's a risk of splitting, I presume I need to use an
aluminium plate behind it for structural reasons, and glue the slate to
the alu (???what glue). Prefer to avoid it - what do you suggest?

Ebonite's rather nice for front panels.

surely thats been unobtainium for a long time. Does anyone still make
it?

If you do a search on Google you'll find a number of suppliers, both
home and abroad.

I have a quantity of it in stock.

Also I'd think slate or granite much nicer.

They aren't really a natural choice for panels though...

I mean, slate's for roofing, and granite for tombstones.

--
Frank Erskine

The message
from Frank Erskine contains these words:

I mean, slate's for roofing, and granite for tombstones.

Commonwealth war graves in France have slate headstones from the
Wynncilate quarry. Saw pallet loads of them last time I was there 'cos a
bunch of French oiks had smashed up a load of Tommies' resting places.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 00:06:14 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:

I mean, slate's for roofing,

Slate comes in many grades, roofing slate is very soft and splits
cleaning and easyly (thats how they make 'em). Some slates are very
dense, hard and don't split. We have some 3cm think lumps of Cumbrian
Green Slate for the hearth, tough as old boots.

and granite for tombstones.

And building and worktops, though I can't see why people want granite
worktops unless you are a pastry chef.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Grunff wrote:
Eusebius wrote:
What kind of drill bit do I need for a) slate and b) granite? (I have a
small drill press)

How do I proceed - one hole, or several - drilling out gradually to
increase the diameter of the hole? I need to drill out a hole of about
8mm.

Any difficulties I should forsee, like slate splitting?

Do I need water cooling? Depth of slate would be either 10mm or 20mm.
Is this fairly fast or very slow and laborious? How is granite compared
to slate?

Thanks - never drilled into these materials before. Andy


Slate is easy and very forgiving - just use a masonry bit. You won't
need cooling. A pilot hole will make it easier to get the hole exactly
where you want it, but is unnecessary if you can clamp the workpiece. It
should only take you a couple of minutes.

Granite is much, much, much harder. I'd use a masonry SDS (assuming the
same depth and hole size), starting with a 4mm and working up to an 8mm.
But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.


I found a drill that is a diamond tipped core drill for drilling ceramic
tiles and stones..I may be using it tomorrow in anger..but diamond is
about all that will touch granite.

Eusebius wrote:
But you need to support the granite very well to avoid breaking it.

In terms of splitting, is granite better or worse than slate? I'm
considering using one or other for a face plate for a diy hi-fi
amplifier. If there's a risk of splitting, I presume I need to use an
aluminium plate behind it for structural reasons, and glue the slate to
the alu (???what glue). Prefer to avoid it - what do you suggest?

Granite is dead tough..it make break out a little at the back tho.
a

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 00:06:14 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:

I mean, slate's for roofing,

Slate comes in many grades, roofing slate is very soft and splits
cleaning and easyly (thats how they make 'em). Some slates are very
dense, hard and don't split. We have some 3cm think lumps of Cumbrian
Green Slate for the hearth, tough as old boots.

and granite for tombstones.

And building and worktops, though I can't see why people want granite
worktops unless you are a pastry chef.

Anything that's survived going through a volcano has a better chance of
surviving my wifes treatment of work surfaces.

deano wrote:
I ended buying a diamond crusted
bit which worked beautifully... no stressing or straining... no burning
or 'glowing' of the bit or material.


You have made my day..of all the things that were available, I picked
that one to drill quartzite..haven't used it yet tho.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 00:06:14 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:


I mean, slate's for roofing,


Slate comes in many grades, roofing slate is very soft and splits
cleaning and easyly (thats how they make 'em). Some slates are very
dense, hard and don't split. We have some 3cm think lumps of Cumbrian
Green Slate for the hearth, tough as old boots.


and granite for tombstones.


And building and worktops, though I can't see why people want granite
worktops unless you are a pastry chef.

I have never understood the need for granite or marble pastry surfaces
in a kitchen. After all, they will be at ambient room temperature either
way.

Now if you were to put a marble slab into the fridge before use, I could
understand that for rolling out pastry.

Dave

The message
from Dave contains these words:

I have never understood the need for granite or marble pastry surfaces
in a kitchen. After all, they will be at ambient room temperature either
way.

Which is a lot warmer than my hands. So as I warm the pastry by working
with it the slab cools it down - and better than a plastic worktop as it
has a higher heat capacity.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On 2006-09-08 00:21:58 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 00:06:14 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:

I mean, slate's for roofing,

Slate comes in many grades, roofing slate is very soft and splits
cleaning and easyly (thats how they make 'em). Some slates are very
dense, hard and don't split. We have some 3cm think lumps of Cumbrian
Green Slate for the hearth, tough as old boots.

and granite for tombstones.

And building and worktops, though I can't see why people want granite
worktops unless you are a pastry chef.

Anything that's survived going through a volcano has a better chance of
surviving my wifes treatment of work surfaces.

good thing you write under a nom-de-plume :-)

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
You have made my day..of all the things that were available, I picked
that one to drill quartzite..haven't used it yet tho.

A pleasure sir. Doubt is like a pair of lead slippers, which we all
occasionally find ourselves wearing. I had them on while tiling my
'undulating" walls.

"Stop smoking the weed, get a BIG cup of coffee gird thy loins, get
some battens and a straight edge, and get plastering" was your advice
to my cry for help. To the point, without being derogatory, it was this
challenge that got my arse in gear.

I hope I have returned that feeling of confidence in you?

As it happens, today, I again used my diamond tile bit with great
success and satisfaction. I used porcelain tiles on the floor in my new
downstairs shower-room and they are extremely hard. I needed to drill 4
holes in them for securing the toilet pan. After trying a masonry bit
first (not even a pinhole did this produce), I turned to my trusty
diamond bit and (after holding the bit at 45° to the tile surface, to
make diamond contact porcelain, and start the cut) I had 4 perfect
holes in about 8 mins.

I'm not (knowingly) familiar with quartzite, but if it's anything like
porcelain, you'll breeze through it and your newly purchased bit will
be lovingly stored in a prized place, within your 'tiling' toolkit.


deano.

deano wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
You have made my day..of all the things that were available, I picked
that one to drill quartzite..haven't used it yet tho.

A pleasure sir. Doubt is like a pair of lead slippers, which we all
occasionally find ourselves wearing. I had them on while tiling my
'undulating" walls.

"Stop smoking the weed, get a BIG cup of coffee gird thy loins, get
some battens and a straight edge, and get plastering" was your advice
to my cry for help. To the point, without being derogatory, it was this
challenge that got my arse in gear.

I hope I have returned that feeling of confidence in you?

As it happens, today, I again used my diamond tile bit with great
success and satisfaction. I used porcelain tiles on the floor in my new
downstairs shower-room and they are extremely hard. I needed to drill 4
holes in them for securing the toilet pan. After trying a masonry bit
first (not even a pinhole did this produce), I turned to my trusty
diamond bit and (after holding the bit at 45° to the tile surface, to
make diamond contact porcelain, and start the cut) I had 4 perfect
holes in about 8 mins.

I'm not (knowingly) familiar with quartzite, but if it's anything like
porcelain, you'll breeze through it and your newly purchased bit will
be lovingly stored in a prized place, within your 'tiling' toolkit.


deano.

Quartzite is somewhat between marble and limestone..in general feel.
Nothing like as tough as granite, but more resistant to acid attack then
calcium carbonate stones. Apparently its metamorphosed sandstone - i.e.
a silicate.

Granite is silica alumina and potassium and sodium oxides..all good
stable stuff, and all pretty hard.