Hi all,
I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and
plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group as
to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the diffferent
terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these
sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock, wallboard
being the same thing-yes?).

So I get the sheets up, attach them to the studs.I then need to "tape"
the joints-once I have done this, I need to use joint filler, not
plaster, to give a smooth finish-this prevents cracking in future
life-am I right so far?

This is the bit that really confuses me-reading some of the stuff on
the web, drywall boards are a replacement for plaster? If this is so,
then why do I see diyer's/trademan's then covering these boards? What
are they putting on-is it plaster or some sort of other material?
Looking through my local DIY store , I see bags of plaster on one side
and one the other side, similar looking bags but which seem to be
gypsum (I'm guessing this is related to the drywall sheets)

What do you need (do you really need to do it is the question I need
answered?),to prepare a drywall/gypsum sheet for matt painting, once
they are up and tape jointed?Can they be used bare or do you need this
"other stuff"? Sorry if this seems a bit noddy but I'm generally
confused as to the proper approach

Thanks

Sandy

cabsandy wrote:
Hi all,
I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and
plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group as
to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the diffferent
terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these
sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock, wallboard
being the same thing-yes?).

Also (most commonly) known as plasterboard in the UK.


So I get the sheets up, attach them to the studs.I then need to "tape"
the joints-once I have done this, I need to use joint filler, not
plaster, to give a smooth finish-this prevents cracking in future
life-am I right so far?

Not necessarily - it depends.

If you use square edged sheets, then you need to skim the whole wall.
Skimming means applying a layer of plaster, about 3mm thick, to the
whole wall.

If you use taper edged sheets, then you can just fill + sand, without
skimming.


This is the bit that really confuses me-reading some of the stuff on
the web, drywall boards are a replacement for plaster?

No, not really - they are a board building material.


If this is so,
then why do I see diyer's/trademan's then covering these boards?

Because that's how you achieve a good finish.


What
are they putting on-is it plaster or some sort of other material?

Plaster.


Looking through my local DIY store , I see bags of plaster on one side
and one the other side, similar looking bags but which seem to be
gypsum (I'm guessing this is related to the drywall sheets)

There are different types of plaster - the stuff you use for skimming is
commonly known as multi-finish.


What do you need (do you really need to do it is the question I need
answered?),to prepare a drywall/gypsum sheet for matt painting, once
they are up and tape jointed?Can they be used bare or do you need this
"other stuff"? Sorry if this seems a bit noddy but I'm generally
confused as to the proper approach

If you use taper edge boards, you can just fill, sand, then paint (with
dilute emulsion to start).

If you use square edge boards you need to skim first.


--
Grunff

"cabsandy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,
I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and
plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group as
to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the diffferent
terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these
sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock, wallboard
being the same thing-yes?).

So I get the sheets up, attach them to the studs.I then need to "tape"
the joints-once I have done this, I need to use joint filler, not
plaster, to give a smooth finish-this prevents cracking in future
life-am I right so far?

This is the bit that really confuses me-reading some of the stuff on
the web, drywall boards are a replacement for plaster? If this is so,
then why do I see diyer's/trademan's then covering these boards? What
are they putting on-is it plaster or some sort of other material?
Looking through my local DIY store , I see bags of plaster on one side
and one the other side, similar looking bags but which seem to be
gypsum (I'm guessing this is related to the drywall sheets)

What do you need (do you really need to do it is the question I need
answered?),to prepare a drywall/gypsum sheet for matt painting, once
they are up and tape jointed?Can they be used bare or do you need this
"other stuff"? Sorry if this seems a bit noddy but I'm generally
confused as to the proper approach


ALL plasterboard looks better if it is skimmed with plaster (generally
"Thistle" finish plaster).

Plasterboard is used for stud partition walling and for "dry-lining" masonry
walls. Dry lining is quick, not so messy and has some insulating properties.
It is ****e to fix things to.

The best finish for masonry walls is a two coat wet finish. The top coat is
always finish plaster (like for the boards) which can be brought to a very
flat finish. The undercoat is either sand & cement (cheaper and good for
uniform walls) or bonding plaster (covers anything).

Generally plasterboard is put up "ivory" side out for taping and decorating
(no finish plaster) and "grey" side out for skimming. IMHO taping and
filling (screw/nail holes, damage etc) will never give as good a finish as
skimming.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

cabsandy wrote:
Hi all,
I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and
plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group as
to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the diffferent
terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these
sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock, wallboard
being the same thing-yes?).


Most of the questions have been answered.

Do yourself a favour...
Make a not how far each batens are apart starting the measurement from
either end of one wall,also if you can knock a few noggins in at diefferent
intervals up the wall.
This reduces the headache afterwards trying to find a stud or nogging
afterwards when trying hang/affix something to the wall. ;-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

Ammended :-)


Most of the questions have been answered.

Do yourself a favour...
Make a note how far each battens are apart starting the measurement from
either end of one wall,also if you can knock a few noggins in at
different intervals up the wall.
This reduces the headache afterwards trying to find a stud or nogging
afterwards when trying hang/affix something to the wall. ;-)


Plastering must be getting to me. :-(

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Grunff wrote:
cabsandy wrote:
Hi all,
I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and
plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group as
to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the diffferent
terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these
sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock, wallboard
being the same thing-yes?).

Also (most commonly) known as plasterboard in the UK.


So I get the sheets up, attach them to the studs.I then need to "tape"
the joints-once I have done this, I need to use joint filler, not
plaster, to give a smooth finish-this prevents cracking in future
life-am I right so far?



Not necessarily - it depends.

If you use square edged sheets, then you need to skim the whole wall.
Skimming means applying a layer of plaster, about 3mm thick, to the
whole wall.

If you use taper edged sheets, then you can just fill + sand, without
skimming.


This is the bit that really confuses me-reading some of the stuff on
the web, drywall boards are a replacement for plaster?

No, not really - they are a board building material.


If this is so,
then why do I see diyer's/trademan's then covering these boards?

Because that's how you achieve a good finish.


What
are they putting on-is it plaster or some sort of other material?

Plaster.


Looking through my local DIY store , I see bags of plaster on one side
and one the other side, similar looking bags but which seem to be
gypsum (I'm guessing this is related to the drywall sheets)

There are different types of plaster - the stuff you use for skimming is
commonly known as multi-finish.


What do you need (do you really need to do it is the question I need
answered?),to prepare a drywall/gypsum sheet for matt painting, once
they are up and tape jointed?Can they be used bare or do you need this
"other stuff"? Sorry if this seems a bit noddy but I'm generally
confused as to the proper approach

If you use taper edge boards, you can just fill, sand, then paint (with
dilute emulsion to start).

If you use square edge boards you need to skim first.


--
Grunff

Thanks all for the quick and great replies-much appreicated

One final question and an observation-I'm going to be working in a
confined space so I've got 1200mm by 600mm (9.5mm thick) boards. I know
this , again, is a thick question, so bear with me but the tapered edge
(which I think is what I have) are "rounded" at either side of th 600mm
width-very slightly, but they are.The top and bottom of the sheets are
exposed-they are completly square-you also have the paper on one side,
and not the other. Is this taper edge boards?

Observation-it seems to depend on opinion as to whether you need to
skim or not on taper edge boards.But the general agreement is that if
you do, you get a smoother finish?

Thanks

Sandy

cabsandy wrote:
Grunff wrote:
cabsandy wrote:
Hi all,
I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and
plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group
as to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the
diffferent terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these
sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock,
wallboard being the same thing-yes?).

Also (most commonly) known as plasterboard in the UK.


So I get the sheets up, attach them to the studs.I then need to
"tape" the joints-once I have done this, I need to use joint
filler, not plaster, to give a smooth finish-this prevents cracking
in future life-am I right so far?



Not necessarily - it depends.

If you use square edged sheets, then you need to skim the whole wall.
Skimming means applying a layer of plaster, about 3mm thick, to the
whole wall.

If you use taper edged sheets, then you can just fill + sand, without
skimming.


This is the bit that really confuses me-reading some of the stuff
on the web, drywall boards are a replacement for plaster?

No, not really - they are a board building material.


If this is so,
then why do I see diyer's/trademan's then covering these boards?

Because that's how you achieve a good finish.


What
are they putting on-is it plaster or some sort of other material?

Plaster.


Looking through my local DIY store , I see bags of plaster on one
side and one the other side, similar looking bags but which seem to
be gypsum (I'm guessing this is related to the drywall sheets)

There are different types of plaster - the stuff you use for
skimming is commonly known as multi-finish.


What do you need (do you really need to do it is the question I need
answered?),to prepare a drywall/gypsum sheet for matt painting, once
they are up and tape jointed?Can they be used bare or do you need
this "other stuff"? Sorry if this seems a bit noddy but I'm
generally confused as to the proper approach

If you use taper edge boards, you can just fill, sand, then paint
(with dilute emulsion to start).

If you use square edge boards you need to skim first.


--
Grunff

Thanks all for the quick and great replies-much appreicated

One final question and an observation-I'm going to be working in a
confined space so I've got 1200mm by 600mm (9.5mm thick) boards. I
know this , again, is a thick question, so bear with me but the
tapered edge (which I think is what I have) are "rounded" at either
side of th 600mm width-very slightly, but they are.The top and bottom
of the sheets are exposed-they are completly square-you also have the
paper on one side, and not the other. Is this taper edge boards?

Observation-it seems to depend on opinion as to whether you need to
skim or not on taper edge boards.But the general agreement is that if
you do, you get a smoother finish?

Thanks

Sandy

Tapered edge is only on one side of the PB and is a complete tapered
edge,not rounded.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Buy a Collins or Readers Digest DIY book. They explain all this and
more.


The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
cabsandy wrote:
Grunff wrote:
cabsandy wrote:
Hi all,
I've been researching the difference bettween drywalling and
plastering.I would like conformation from some people in the group
as to that fact I have the right understanding of what all the
diffferent terms mean.

I want to put up a stud partion wall-once I get the sheets up (these
sheets are "drywall" sheets, with the words gypsum, gyprock,
wallboard being the same thing-yes?).

Also (most commonly) known as plasterboard in the UK.


So I get the sheets up, attach them to the studs.I then need to
"tape" the joints-once I have done this, I need to use joint
filler, not plaster, to give a smooth finish-this prevents cracking
in future life-am I right so far?



Not necessarily - it depends.

If you use square edged sheets, then you need to skim the whole wall.
Skimming means applying a layer of plaster, about 3mm thick, to the
whole wall.

If you use taper edged sheets, then you can just fill + sand, without
skimming.


This is the bit that really confuses me-reading some of the stuff
on the web, drywall boards are a replacement for plaster?

No, not really - they are a board building material.


If this is so,
then why do I see diyer's/trademan's then covering these boards?

Because that's how you achieve a good finish.


What
are they putting on-is it plaster or some sort of other material?

Plaster.


Looking through my local DIY store , I see bags of plaster on one
side and one the other side, similar looking bags but which seem to
be gypsum (I'm guessing this is related to the drywall sheets)

There are different types of plaster - the stuff you use for
skimming is commonly known as multi-finish.


What do you need (do you really need to do it is the question I need
answered?),to prepare a drywall/gypsum sheet for matt painting, once
they are up and tape jointed?Can they be used bare or do you need
this "other stuff"? Sorry if this seems a bit noddy but I'm
generally confused as to the proper approach

If you use taper edge boards, you can just fill, sand, then paint
(with dilute emulsion to start).

If you use square edge boards you need to skim first.


--
Grunff

Thanks all for the quick and great replies-much appreicated

One final question and an observation-I'm going to be working in a
confined space so I've got 1200mm by 600mm (9.5mm thick) boards. I
know this , again, is a thick question, so bear with me but the
tapered edge (which I think is what I have) are "rounded" at either
side of th 600mm width-very slightly, but they are.The top and bottom
of the sheets are exposed-they are completly square-you also have the
paper on one side, and not the other. Is this taper edge boards?

Observation-it seems to depend on opinion as to whether you need to
skim or not on taper edge boards.But the general agreement is that if
you do, you get a smoother finish?

Thanks

Sandy

Tapered edge is only on one side of the PB and is a complete tapered
edge,not rounded.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

cabsandy wrote:

One final question and an observation-I'm going to be working in a
confined space so I've got 1200mm by 600mm (9.5mm thick) boards.

You should really use 12.5mm boards for walls - 9.5mm is quite flimsy.


I know
this , again, is a thick question, so bear with me but the tapered edge
(which I think is what I have) are "rounded" at either side of th 600mm
width-very slightly, but they are.

Do you mean they are tapered? They are not rounded.



The top and bottom of the sheets are
exposed-they are completly square-you also have the paper on one side,
and not the other. Is this taper edge boards?

Sorry, I don't understand. Perhaps some photos?



Observation-it seems to depend on opinion as to whether you need to
skim or not on taper edge boards.

Not really - the reason taper edge boards exist is so you don't have to
skim - that is the sole reason behind the product. You can skim them if
you want, but if you're going to skim it's easier to use square edged
boards.



But the general agreement is that if
you do, you get a smoother finish?

Skimming does give a nicer finish, yes.



--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
cabsandy wrote:

One final question and an observation-I'm going to be working in a
confined space so I've got 1200mm by 600mm (9.5mm thick) boards.

You should really use 12.5mm boards for walls - 9.5mm is quite flimsy.

Point taken on board-the only reason for the 9.5mm was that all the
12.5mm were too big in length to get in the van.Plus the wall is not a
major wall-just something in the garage to partion off some bits and
pieces


I know
this , again, is a thick question, so bear with me but the tapered edge
(which I think is what I have) are "rounded" at either side of th 600mm
width-very slightly, but they are.

Do you mean they are tapered? They are not rounded.



The top and bottom of the sheets are
exposed-they are completly square-you also have the paper on one side,
and not the other. Is this taper edge boards?

Sorry, I don't understand. Perhaps some photos?

My fault-I think the word tapered is confusing me.Tapered , to me,
means one end is smaller than the other.These sheets are the same at
either side, just dont seem as "sharp ast the top and bottom.They are
standard sheets from the local B&Q,1200 by 600mm



Observation-it seems to depend on opinion as to whether you need to
skim or not on taper edge boards.

Not really - the reason taper edge boards exist is so you don't have to
skim - that is the sole reason behind the product. You can skim them if
you want, but if you're going to skim it's easier to use square edged
boards.



But the general agreement is that if
you do, you get a smoother finish?

Skimming does give a nicer finish, yes.

Ack-I'm going to practise on some spare boards-it was one of the
reasons for doing it in the first place.Thanks for your input m8-much
appreciated


--
Grunff

cabsandy wrote:

My fault-I think the word tapered is confusing me.Tapered , to me,
means one end is smaller than the other.These sheets are the same at
either side, just dont seem as "sharp ast the top and bottom.They are
standard sheets from the local B&Q,1200 by 600mm


Tapered boards have a region around 2 inches wide which gently reduces
from full thickness to around 2/3rds thickness. The region is well
defined, and impossible to miss.

Square edged boards are the same uniform thickness from one side to the
other.

At the sides, the paper wraps round to the back, for both types of board.



Ack-I'm going to practise on some spare boards-it was one of the
reasons for doing it in the first place.Thanks for your input m8-much
appreciated

Most welcome.


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
cabsandy wrote:

My fault-I think the word tapered is confusing me.Tapered , to me,
means one end is smaller than the other.These sheets are the same at
either side, just dont seem as "sharp ast the top and bottom.They are
standard sheets from the local B&Q,1200 by 600mm


Tapered boards have a region around 2 inches wide which gently reduces
from full thickness to around 2/3rds thickness. The region is well
defined, and impossible to miss.

Square edged boards are the same uniform thickness from one side to the
other.

At the sides, the paper wraps round to the back, for both types of board.



Ack-I'm going to practise on some spare boards-it was one of the
reasons for doing it in the first place.Thanks for your input m8-much
appreciated

Most welcome.



Sounds like the OP doesn't have the tapered boards but you can always
cut your own taper with a stanley knife to flatten ridges

Bob Mannix wrote:

Generally plasterboard is put up "ivory" side out for taping and decorating
(no finish plaster) and "grey" side out for skimming.

No it isn't, there is only one side that is used, it's the side that
doesn't have the words "plaster other side" printed on it. They print
that onto the back of the plasterboard for people who don't know what
they are doing.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Bob Mannix wrote:

Generally plasterboard is put up "ivory" side out for taping and
decorating
(no finish plaster) and "grey" side out for skimming.

No it isn't, there is only one side that is used, it's the side that
doesn't have the words "plaster other side" printed on it. They print
that onto the back of the plasterboard for people who don't know what
they are doing.

oooh. Cutting! Interesting except that... many sites and books and ng
threads from a few years ago held to my expressed opinion (which dates from
back then, in my defence). Also none of my plasterboard ever had "plaster
other side" written on it.

Manufacturer's sites confirm your point (which I accept is now correct -
sorry to the OP) by saying use the ivory side for everything. I would say
(and from experience know) that, in fact, you use the ivory side for
decorating (obviously) but, in the absense of instructions to the contrary,
it doesn't actually matter which side you use for skimming.

However, I stand corrected.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Manufacturer's sites confirm your point (which I accept is now correct -
sorry to the OP) by saying use the ivory side for everything. I would say
(and from experience know) that, in fact, you use the ivory side for
decorating (obviously) but, in the absense of instructions to the
contrary, it doesn't actually matter which side you use for skimming.

Actually, it really doesn't matter for skimming, except that if you use
taper edge boards, you must put it ivory side outwards as you would be
putting the taper up to the stud, so the board wouldn't lay flat and might
undulate or snap off.

I've always used the ivory side, but if I had accidentally put a board on
backwards, I wouldn't have bothered to "fix" it.

Christian.

One final question and an observation-I'm going to be working in a
confined space so I've got 1200mm by 600mm (9.5mm thick) boards. I know
this , again, is a thick question, so bear with me but the tapered edge
(which I think is what I have) are "rounded" at either side of th 600mm
width-very slightly, but they are.The top and bottom of the sheets are
exposed-they are completly square-you also have the paper on one side,
and not the other. Is this taper edge boards?

Yes, but you needn't have bothered. You can only tape and fill if you either
have the boards tapered all round (never seen this) or if the boards are in
a run so that the top and bottom of the boards never butt up. As this is not
the case, you're going to have to skim anyway.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:

Actually, it really doesn't matter for skimming,

I've always used the ivory side, but if I had accidentally put a board on
backwards, I wouldn't have bothered to "fix" it.

Actually it does, for reasons of safety, especially on ceilings. The
manufacture of plasterboard involves pouring the plaster onto the face
paper first where it adheres to the fibres in the paper, the backing
paper is then dropped onto the plaster but doesn't bond as well, this
doesn't matter as it's not designed to. If you put the plasterboard on
the wrong way then the face that is holding the plaster isn't very
secure and can come away, coupled with the water soaking it gets from
the plastering, any fixings used to hold the plasterboard in place can
pull through slightly weakening it's support of the plasterboard.

Plasterboard is designed to fit the specific purpose it's meant to be
used for, using it outside of that specification is incorrect and
potentially dangerous.

In this age of litigation, when a ceiling or wall falls down and hurts
someone or damages property due to "back to front" plasterboard fixing,
the blame cannot be put on British Gypsum as they print the words
"plaster other side" on their plasterboard, it's the person who can't
be bothered to "fix" it who is liable.

You should get some knowledge about plasterboard before giving out
advice on it's use.

http://www.british-gypsum.bpb.com/

Grunff wrote:
cabsandy wrote:

Observation-it seems to depend on opinion as to whether you need to
skim or not on taper edge boards.

Not really - the reason taper edge boards exist is so you don't have to
skim - that is the sole reason behind the product. You can skim them if
you want, but if you're going to skim it's easier to use square edged
boards.

But the general agreement is that if
you do, you get a smoother finish?

Skimming does give a nicer finish, yes.

I've always had my plasterboard skimmed... I can't imagine you'd be able
to get an even halfway decent result otherwise (unless wallpapering
afterwards), but can't say I've ever tried. Is it really acceptable -
assuming an emulsion finish?

David

Lobster wrote:

I've always had my plasterboard skimmed... I can't imagine you'd be able
to get an even halfway decent result otherwise (unless wallpapering
afterwards), but can't say I've ever tried. Is it really acceptable -
assuming an emulsion finish?

You can get a perfectly acceptable finish - it's not as smooth as a skim
finish, and doesn't feel as nice to the touch (feels like painted
paper!), but visually it's fine.

My preference is for skimmed, but I've done both in different situations.

If you're wallpapering, then I'd say skimming is a waste of time and
money - you will never know the difference.


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
Lobster wrote:

I've always had my plasterboard skimmed... I can't imagine you'd be
able to get an even halfway decent result otherwise (unless
wallpapering afterwards), but can't say I've ever tried. Is it
really acceptable - assuming an emulsion finish?

You can get a perfectly acceptable finish - it's not as smooth as a
skim finish, and doesn't feel as nice to the touch (feels like painted
paper!), but visually it's fine.

My preference is for skimmed, but I've done both in different
situations.
If you're wallpapering, then I'd say skimming is a waste of time and
money - you will never know the difference.

Until you come to strip off the wallpaper only to find that you need to
replace the plasterboards because holes have been dug through them trying to
seperate paper from paper.

Phil L wrote:

Until you come to strip off the wallpaper only to find that you need to
replace the plasterboards because holes have been dug through them trying to
seperate paper from paper.

Hmm, you may have a point there - but would gentle steaming not do the
job? I say gentle because you just want to dissolve the glue, not ruin
the plasterboard paper. I haven't tried it - just a thought.


--
Grunff

wrote:
Christian McArdle wrote:

Actually, it really doesn't matter for skimming,

I've always used the ivory side, but if I had accidentally put a
board on backwards, I wouldn't have bothered to "fix" it.

Actually it does, for reasons of safety, especially on ceilings. The
manufacture of plasterboard involves pouring the plaster onto the face
paper first where it adheres to the fibres in the paper, the backing
paper is then dropped onto the plaster but doesn't bond as well, this
doesn't matter as it's not designed to. If you put the plasterboard on
the wrong way then the face that is holding the plaster isn't very
secure and can come away, coupled with the water soaking it gets from
the plastering, any fixings used to hold the plasterboard in place can
pull through slightly weakening it's support of the plasterboard.

Plasterboard is designed to fit the specific purpose it's meant to be
used for, using it outside of that specification is incorrect and
potentially dangerous.

In this age of litigation, when a ceiling or wall falls down and hurts
someone or damages property due to "back to front" plasterboard
fixing, the blame cannot be put on British Gypsum as they print the
words "plaster other side" on their plasterboard, it's the person who
can't be bothered to "fix" it who is liable.

You should get some knowledge about plasterboard before giving out
advice on it's use.

http://www.british-gypsum.bpb.com/

And what if you don't use british gypsum boards? -I've been using about a
hundred lafarge a month for about 3 years and it doesn't say **** all.

On 2006-09-05 22:42:56 +0100, Grunff said:

Phil L wrote:

Until you come to strip off the wallpaper only to find that you need to
replace the plasterboards because holes have been dug through them
trying to seperate paper from paper.

Hmm, you may have a point there - but would gentle steaming not do the
job? I say gentle because you just want to dissolve the glue, not ruin
the plasterboard paper. I haven't tried it - just a thought.

The recommendation from the manufacturers is to use a drywall primer
before papering. Then, allegedly, this is not a problem.

Grunff wrote:
Phil L wrote:

Until you come to strip off the wallpaper only to find that you need
to replace the plasterboards because holes have been dug through
them trying to seperate paper from paper.

Hmm, you may have a point there - but would gentle steaming not do the
job? I say gentle because you just want to dissolve the glue, not ruin
the plasterboard paper. I haven't tried it - just a thought.

The first thing we had to do when renovating houses was strip all ceilings
and walls, I suppose it's OK *if* you know, if you don't and wet everything
3 times with a sprayer before lifting a scraper as we had to, things get a
bit messy :-p given that both sheets of paper have lifted and bubbled

Andy Hall wrote:

The recommendation from the manufacturers is to use a drywall primer
before papering. Then, allegedly, this is not a problem.


Ah, ok, didn't know there was such a product - is it PVA based?


--
Grunff

On 2006-09-05 23:00:00 +0100, Grunff said:

Andy Hall wrote:

The recommendation from the manufacturers is to use a drywall primer
before papering. Then, allegedly, this is not a problem.


Ah, ok, didn't know there was such a product - is it PVA based?

Probably. More than likely it's just dilute Unibond.

e.g. http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/163537

Andy Hall wrote:

Probably. More than likely it's just dilute Unibond.

e.g. http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/163537


From various manufacturer's sites, it does appear to be PVA + titanium
dioxide, e.g.

http://www.haymespaint.com.au/upfile...sds/mspfps.pdf
(PDF)


--
Grunff

On 2006-09-05 23:48:45 +0100, Grunff said:

Andy Hall wrote:

Probably. More than likely it's just dilute Unibond.

e.g. http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/163537


From various manufacturer's sites, it does appear to be PVA + titanium
dioxide, e.g.

http://www.haymespaint.com.au/upfile...sds/mspfps.pdf
(PDF)

Unibond and white emulsion, then.... :-)

Phil L wrote:


And what if you don't use british gypsum boards? -I've been using
about a hundred lafarge a month for about 3 years and it doesn't say
**** all.


I'm not suprised...plasterboard cant talk. :-P


--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

On 2006-09-06 00:59:04 +0100, "The3rd Earl Of Derby" said:

Phil L wrote:


And what if you don't use british gypsum boards? -I've been using
about a hundred lafarge a month for about 3 years and it doesn't say
**** all.


I'm not suprised...plasterboard cant talk. :-P

Ah, but have you never heard the expression that walls have ears?

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-09-06 00:59:04 +0100, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
said:
Phil L wrote:


And what if you don't use british gypsum boards? -I've been using
about a hundred lafarge a month for about 3 years and it doesn't say
**** all.


I'm not suprised...plasterboard cant talk. :-P

Ah, but have you never heard the expression that walls have ears?

They most certainly do, I found one in my sausages.