I have a single 16a circuit in my main fuse box that controls the
boiler and heating pump. I also have a suitably large generator.

Is there a switch I could install to isolate the fuse box and then
allow the generator to supply just this one circuit when there is a
power cut? Obviously it needs to be installed such that it is
impossible for the generator to be connected to a live feed - is there
a suitable 16A switch?

Secondly if the above were possible then I should install a proper
earth on the generator (located in an outhouse)?

Or is all of this madness?

I have a single 16a circuit in my main fuse box that controls the
boiler and heating pump. I also have a suitably large generator.
Is there a switch I could install to isolate the fuse box and then
allow the generator to supply just this one circuit when there is a
power cut? Obviously it needs to be installed such that it is
impossible for the generator to be connected to a live feed - is there
a suitable 16A switch?

Something along the lines of a double pole changeover switch IIRC...

In message .com,
writes

I have a single 16a circuit in my main fuse box that controls the
boiler and heating pump. I also have a suitably large generator.

Is there a switch I could install to isolate the fuse box and then
allow the generator to supply just this one circuit when there is a
power cut? Obviously it needs to be installed such that it is
impossible for the generator to be connected to a live feed - is there
a suitable 16A switch?
Not exactly what you were asking for but:-

http://www.justgenerators.co.uk/pages/powertransfer.htm




--
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message .com,
writes

I have a single 16a circuit in my main fuse box that controls the
boiler and heating pump. I also have a suitably large generator.

Is there a switch I could install to isolate the fuse box and then
allow the generator to supply just this one circuit when there is a
power cut? Obviously it needs to be installed such that it is
impossible for the generator to be connected to a live feed - is there
a suitable 16A switch?
Not exactly what you were asking for but:-

http://www.justgenerators.co.uk/pages/powertransfer.htm




--
Bill

you beat me to it.

wrote:

Is there a switch I could install to isolate the fuse box and then
allow the generator to supply just this one circuit when there is a
power cut? Obviously it needs to be installed such that it is
impossible for the generator to be connected to a live feed - is there
a suitable 16A switch?

A transfer switch is designed for this type of job (it has a break
before make action)

http://www.justgenerators.co.uk/pages/powertransfer.htm

(not sure what that page says about RCDs makes any sense!)

Or for a posh version:

http://ramsaygenerators.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=17

Secondly if the above were possible then I should install a proper
earth on the generator (located in an outhouse)?

Oh yes. (some boilers won't even light without a reasonable earth reference)

Or is all of this madness?

Probbably not...

Doubt you actually need 16A though to run the heating.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

Doubt you actually need 16A though to run the heating.


FWIW, the little Screwfix/Wolf 2-stroke gene will run a domestic-sized
oil fired combi.

The blower and pump motors don't sound as comfortable as they do with
real sine waves from the power station, but the whole thing works for
long enough to heat up the rads and the internal hot water tank.
Likewise it will run the small fridge OR the small freezer for long
enough to keep them going.

Since this is only for emergencies, and the gene won't run more than one
thing at a time, all the "switching" can be done by swapping around the
13A plugs. When the tuit arrives, I'll put a large waterproof box on the
outside wall to hold a couple of metres of cable and 13A plug to connect
the gene, and tuck the incoming extension lead away under the kitchen
units.

As a higher priority, I'll convert the plain 13A socket on the gene to a
more waterproof type that can stand being rained or snowed on.

Obviously this isn't as good as a fully engineered solution, but last
winter made us very glad to have it.

FWIW, continued: the same gene will power a 2kg SDS drill or a 4.5in
angle grinder. Performance may be a bit down compared with mains, but
it's really quite hard to notice. Certainly it's perfectly functional
for intermittent use - 18mm hole in solid rock, nae bother (given the
pilot hole that you'd drill anyway).



--
Ian White

On 30 May 2006 14:59:02 -0700 someone who may be
wrote this:-

I have a single 16a circuit in my main fuse box that controls the
boiler and heating pump. I also have a suitably large generator.

Is there a switch I could install to isolate the fuse box and then
allow the generator to supply just this one circuit when there is a
power cut? Obviously it needs to be installed such that it is
impossible for the generator to be connected to a live feed - is there
a suitable 16A switch?

There are many.

Secondly if the above were possible then I should install a proper
earth on the generator (located in an outhouse)?

You cannot rely on the external earthing (assuming there is any)
when there is a power cut. The "electricity board" may have chopped
out a section of the cable to repair it.

What you need is a suitably qualified electrical engineer to work
out what to do. This will probably involve changing from one
earthing system to another on changeover. There are a number of
possibilities.



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In article .com,
wrote:
I have a single 16a circuit in my main fuse box that controls the
boiler and heating pump. I also have a suitably large generator.

It may well be a 16 amp radial circuit but you don't need anything like
this for the average central heating system. I have a home made UPS doing
this function which will run the system for many hours using a car sized
battery. The UPS peak output is only 300 watts - and the CH never reaches
this even when switching, etc.

--
*Who are these kids and why are they calling me Mom?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 30 May 2006 14:59:02 -0700, wrote:

Secondly if the above were possible then I should install a proper
earth on the generator (located in an outhouse)?

That is a large can of worms and really dependant on what type your
existing power supply is. Though most of it revolves around connecting
the supply earth with your local earth and various fault conditions. When
the mains power goes you can't rely on the mains earth also being present
and you don't want a fault at your premises making the mains earth live
from your genny.

Having said that the genny should have it's own good local earth bonded
to it's frame and one phase of the generator(*). It would also be prudent
to put the generators ouput through and RCD at the generator.

Or is all of this madness?

Take a google over that last couple of year in here for various other
threads on the subject.

(*) These small generators "single phase" generators are really two phase
balance jobbies but with the phases 180 degrees apart. In some
circumstances having two floating phases instead of a "normal" live and
neutral supply can be safer but when connecting to equipment that expects
L&N two floating phases can produce highly dangerous conditions that can
remain hidden until someone comes into contact with something that
shouldn't be live but is... That something can be exposed and "earthed"
metalwork or kit "switched off" but only by a single pole switch.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Thanks everyone for the sensible advice. I have read up on this further
and agree with the general consensus that to do this properly will
require a professional and lots of money :-) It will also be too much
for what I need.

I think I will investigate simply swapping a couple of 13-amp plugs
over and doing it that way on the rare occassion I need the heating
running. Next on the list is to sort out thermostats etc to see what
needs power!

Thanks again


Dave Liquorice wrote:

On 30 May 2006 14:59:02 -0700, wrote:

Secondly if the above were possible then I should install a proper
earth on the generator (located in an outhouse)?

That is a large can of worms and really dependant on what type your
existing power supply is. Though most of it revolves around connecting
the supply earth with your local earth and various fault conditions. When
the mains power goes you can't rely on the mains earth also being present
and you don't want a fault at your premises making the mains earth live
from your genny.

Having said that the genny should have it's own good local earth bonded
to it's frame and one phase of the generator(*). It would also be prudent
to put the generators ouput through and RCD at the generator.

Or is all of this madness?

Take a google over that last couple of year in here for various other
threads on the subject.

(*) These small generators "single phase" generators are really two phase
balance jobbies but with the phases 180 degrees apart. In some
circumstances having two floating phases instead of a "normal" live and
neutral supply can be safer but when connecting to equipment that expects
L&N two floating phases can produce highly dangerous conditions that can
remain hidden until someone comes into contact with something that
shouldn't be live but is... That something can be exposed and "earthed"
metalwork or kit "switched off" but only by a single pole switch.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On 9 Jun 2006 00:16:19 -0700, wrote:

I think I will investigate simply swapping a couple of 13-amp plugs
over and doing it that way on the rare occassion I need the heating
running. Next on the list is to sort out thermostats etc to see what
needs power!

The complete CH system should be fed from a single mains supply, probably
switched and fuse connection unit somewhere. Easy enough to fit a 13A
plug and socket downstream of that. Fridges and freezers can simply be
unplugged from the mains and plugged into the genny.

I'd still have a good local earth at the generator bonded to it's chassis
and one of it's phases to simulate the normal, unbalanced, mains.
Particulary if more than one appliance is connected to the genny at any
one time. I'd also have an RCD at the generator.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail