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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Flooring woes
I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice.
As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. |
#2
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Flooring woes
This sounds more serious than your floorboards. How has the mositure
travelled from the concrete to boards, are they in direct contact with the concrete or has the moisture travelled via the joists? Why was the concrete added, is it stabilising the building? Is there any ventilation of any remaining space between concrete and wood? Is there any sign of wet/dry rot? Are you sure the moisture is permeating through the cocrete rather than a pipe leaking into the underfloor void? One possibility may be a layer of ashpalt over the concrete, but first step is to find out why the concrete was put in. |
#3
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Flooring woes
wrote in message oups.com... This sounds more serious than your floorboards. How has the mositure travelled from the concrete to boards, are they in direct contact with the concrete or has the moisture travelled via the joists? Why was the concrete added, is it stabilising the building? Is there any ventilation of any remaining space between concrete and wood? Is there any sign of wet/dry rot? Are you sure the moisture is permeating through the cocrete rather than a pipe leaking into the underfloor void? One possibility may be a layer of ashpalt over the concrete, but first step is to find out why the concrete was put in. Thanks for the swift reply, I haven't a clue why it was done in the first place, all the other floors in the house are solid and damp free and seem to have been concreted/screeded properly at some point in time. The concrete is near enough level with the joists so the moisture is reaching the boards via both means. The joists are rotten and soft. there is no underfloor void as I presume the concrete has just been shovelled in between the joists and levelled off roughly - there has been a thin layer of some sort of bitumen painted on top of the concrete at some point in time but this is now cracked & bubbled. I don't think it adds any stability to the building as it is only in the hallway. Thanks for any input. Franko |
#4
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Flooring woes
The message
from "Franko" contains these words: My question is - is this a crap idea ? If the joists are like putty then I'd fix that first. -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#5
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Flooring woes
"Franko" wrote in message ... I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Did Fred West ever live or work in the house?? Baz |
#6
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Flooring woes
"Baz" wrote in message ... "Franko" wrote in message ... I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Did Fred West ever live or work in the house?? Baz Lol ! I think the missus will want to bury me when I let her know how much work is involved in putting it all right ! Franko. |
#7
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Flooring woes
The message
from "Baz" contains these words: Did Fred West ever live or work in the house?? I had a boss once who lived in Nielson's old house. Got it cheap. -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
#8
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. If the joists are that bad, I'd suspect a leak, especially if your mains supply comes in from the front. You might be able to hear it if you put your ear to the mains when nothing is being used. Then turn the stopcock off in the road (if it works) and listen again. Last time I had experience of this the Water Board ran a test for free and luckily the fault was just on their side of the wall. |
#9
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Flooring woes
The concrete is near enough level with the joists so the moisture is
reaching the boards via both means. So effectively, you have a damp concrete floor with some gaps filled with rotten wood? I'd remove the rotten joists and fill the gaps with concrete. Then DPM, and screed over before any wood. If the screed is thin, it'll probably crack like buggery. If you haven't room to screed at all, you'll just have to lay the DPM down and put the wood on top, although I can't vouch for longevity. Better still, remove everything to a reasonable depth and do it properly with insulation and DPM embedded deeper, which will be more damp resistant and be up to modern standards. A lot of work, though. Christian. |
#10
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Flooring woes
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message ... Franko wrote: I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. If the joists are that bad, I'd suspect a leak, especially if your mains supply comes in from the front. You might be able to hear it if you put your ear to the mains when nothing is being used. Then turn the stopcock off in the road (if it works) and listen again. Last time I had experience of this the Water Board ran a test for free and luckily the fault was just on their side of the wall. Think you could be right Stuart, the water board have been out this afternoon digging up next doors pretty new block paved front garden - I asked them if they found a leak and they told me it is just inside the house !! Probably been leaking for years for it to rot the joists as bad as this so it looks like major work for me ahead. The Missus has just put the finishing touches to all the gloss work today so I don't think she'll be too pleased ! Franko. |
#11
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote: Think you could be right Stuart, the water board have been out this afternoon digging up next doors pretty new block paved front garden - I asked them if they found a leak and they told me it is just inside the house !! How close is their leak to your damp floor? Chris |
#12
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Flooring woes
wrote in message ps.com... Franko wrote: Think you could be right Stuart, the water board have been out this afternoon digging up next doors pretty new block paved front garden - I asked them if they found a leak and they told me it is just inside the house !! How close is their leak to your damp floor? Chris Just the other side of the party wall so within about 5 feet minimum. Franko. |
#13
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Flooring woes
If it's their leak causing your damage, it's highly likely you have a
claim against them. Check they have insurance. |
#14
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Flooring woes
wrote in message oups.com... If it's their leak causing your damage, it's highly likely you have a claim against them. Check they have insurance. I doubt that I'd have a valid claim if the previous occupier filled the void between the joists with concrete - besides, i get on well with my neighbour and would rather not have a good chance of spoiling good neighbour relations by trying to claim on their insurance. Looks like I have a busy weekend then :-( franko. |
#15
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message ... Franko wrote: I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. If the joists are that bad, I'd suspect a leak, especially if your mains supply comes in from the front. You might be able to hear it if you put your ear to the mains when nothing is being used. Then turn the stopcock off in the road (if it works) and listen again. Last time I had experience of this the Water Board ran a test for free and luckily the fault was just on their side of the wall. Think you could be right Stuart, the water board have been out this afternoon digging up next doors pretty new block paved front garden - I asked them if they found a leak and they told me it is just inside the house !! Probably been leaking for years for it to rot the joists as bad as this so it looks like major work for me ahead. The Missus has just put the finishing touches to all the gloss work today so I don't think she'll be too pleased ! Franko. Either way it should be an insurance job. The important thing to stress is that you weren't aware of any problem until you took the carpet up, which you only did to put laminate down. If loss adjusters become involved, they might say it's a long standing thing that you've allowed to deteriorate. I had a similar problem in a house I was working on but that was a vinyl floor which had insulated the room from the devastation below for several years, so they accepted the claim. |
#16
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Rip it all out and do a concrete/DPM/insulation/screed job on it. Unless you are selling, in which case lay some supermarket polythene bags over the boards and then carpet. Yes, folks, thats how MY house was originally sold to me...;-) |
#17
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. If the joists are that bad, I'd suspect a leak, especially if your mains supply comes in from the front. You might be able to hear it if you put your ear to the mains when nothing is being used. Then turn the stopcock off in the road (if it works) and listen again. Last time I had experience of this the Water Board ran a test for free and luckily the fault was just on their side of the wall. Think you could be right Stuart, the water board have been out this afternoon digging up next doors pretty new block paved front garden - I asked them if they found a leak and they told me it is just inside the house !! Probably been leaking for years for it to rot the joists as bad as this so it looks like major work for me ahead. The Missus has just put the finishing touches to all the gloss work today so I don't think she'll be too pleased ! Franko. Either way it should be an insurance job. The important thing to stress is that you weren't aware of any problem until you took the carpet up, which you only did to put laminate down. If loss adjusters become involved, they might say it's a long standing thing that you've allowed to deteriorate. I had a similar problem in a house I was working on but that was a vinyl floor which had insulated the room from the devastation below for several years, so they accepted the claim. But surely you cannot put in a claim for the result of a stupid diy error even if it was dine in ignorance ? Franko. |
#18
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Flooring woes
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... Franko wrote: I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Rip it all out and do a concrete/DPM/insulation/screed job on it. Unless you are selling, in which case lay some supermarket polythene bags over the boards and then carpet. Yes, folks, thats how MY house was originally sold to me...;-) I think I'll go for the former option, I'd feel guilty forever if I sold the house at some point knowing that I'd bodged a job for someone else to find in the future and curse me, I still run through jobs in my mind that i did in my last house over 10 years ago wondering if I did everything correctly ! Franko. |
#19
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote: wrote in message oups.com... If it's their leak causing your damage, it's highly likely you have a claim against them. Check they have insurance. I doubt that I'd have a valid claim if the previous occupier filled the void between the joists with concrete - besides, i get on well with my neighbour and would rather not have a good chance of spoiling good neighbour relations by trying to claim on their insurance. Looks like I have a busy weekend then :-( franko. An insurance claim doesn't have to be acrimonious. Your neighbours may feel guilty if they discover their leak involved you in work and expense and you _didn't_ claim. In any case, AIUI, you claim on _your_ insurance and the insurance companies fight it out. How much is your excess? If you are going to claim, don't touch anything until the assessor has looked at it. Your flooring -- concrete with embedded wood battens to take the nails -- is not unusual, whether original or a previous DIY. After a similar incident on such professionally laid flooring, I was told that mould spores from the wood can permeate the concrete so this may have to be replaced too or the new floorboards will rot. OTOH it could just have been a builder on a job creation scheme and a douse with fungicide would be enough. What does the panel think? Chris |
#20
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Flooring woes
Guy King wrote:
The message from "Baz" contains these words: Did Fred West ever live or work in the house?? I had a boss once who lived in Nielson's old house. Got it cheap. I worked with a bloke who was formerly Nielson's boss in the Civil Service. Tim |
#21
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... Franko wrote: I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Rip it all out and do a concrete/DPM/insulation/screed job on it. Unless you are selling, in which case lay some supermarket polythene bags over the boards and then carpet. Yes, folks, thats how MY house was originally sold to me...;-) I think I'll go for the former option, I'd feel guilty forever if I sold the house at some point knowing that I'd bodged a job for someone else to find in the future and curse me, I still run through jobs in my mind that i did in my last house over 10 years ago wondering if I did everything correctly ! Franko. How much gap have you got now? - that is to say, how much lower is the concrete / rotten joists below the other floors in the house? Is the concrete up to the top of the joists? If it isn't, you can remove the remainder of the joists and put a few inches of concrete in, then get it asphalted about half an inch thick, I've seen asphalt laid over quarry tiles, rough concrete without DPM underneath and loads of other surfaces without any problems, the asphalt itself is a much better damp barrier than anything you can buy on a roll. |
#22
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Rip it all out and do a concrete/DPM/insulation/screed job on it. Unless you are selling, in which case lay some supermarket polythene bags over the boards and then carpet. Yes, folks, thats how MY house was originally sold to me...;-) I think I'll go for the former option, I'd feel guilty forever if I sold the house at some point knowing that I'd bodged a job for someone else to find in the future and curse me, I still run through jobs in my mind that i did in my last house over 10 years ago wondering if I did everything correctly ! Franko. How much gap have you got now? - that is to say, how much lower is the concrete / rotten joists below the other floors in the house? Is the concrete up to the top of the joists? If it isn't, you can remove the remainder of the joists and put a few inches of concrete in, then get it asphalted about half an inch thick, I've seen asphalt laid over quarry tiles, rough concrete without DPM underneath and loads of other surfaces without any problems, the asphalt itself is a much better damp barrier than anything you can buy on a roll. The concrete is just about level with the top of the joists and level with the other floors in the house. I've had another think about it and may just latex the surface to flatten it all off, lay a polythene dpm, new t&g floorboards and top it off with the laminate. The neighbours leak has been fixed so I can't see a problem with water pressure forcing any water through the latex although I realise that the damp will still rise through capillary action but I'm hoping that the dpm should hold that back. I'm not too worried about the joists at this time as the concrete seems to add support to the structure. Any thoughts on this course of action ? Franko. |
#23
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Rip it all out and do a concrete/DPM/insulation/screed job on it. Unless you are selling, in which case lay some supermarket polythene bags over the boards and then carpet. Yes, folks, thats how MY house was originally sold to me...;-) I think I'll go for the former option, I'd feel guilty forever if I sold the house at some point knowing that I'd bodged a job for someone else to find in the future and curse me, I still run through jobs in my mind that i did in my last house over 10 years ago wondering if I did everything correctly ! Franko. How much gap have you got now? - that is to say, how much lower is the concrete / rotten joists below the other floors in the house? Is the concrete up to the top of the joists? If it isn't, you can remove the remainder of the joists and put a few inches of concrete in, then get it asphalted about half an inch thick, I've seen asphalt laid over quarry tiles, rough concrete without DPM underneath and loads of other surfaces without any problems, the asphalt itself is a much better damp barrier than anything you can buy on a roll. The neighbours leak has been fixed so I can't see a problem with water pressure forcing any water through the latex although I realise that the damp will still rise through capillary action but I'm hoping that the dpm should hold that back. I'm not too worried about the joists at this time as the concrete seems to add support to the structure. Any thoughts on this course of action ? Franko. |
#24
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Flooring woes
Franko wrote:
Franko wrote: I'm hoping that someone can give me some advice. As we are decorating our hall, stairs & landing, my wife has decided that she'd like some laminate flooring in the hallway. After pulling up the carpet, I noticed that the floorboards looked a bit damp in places, the nails are all rusted and the boards are curling across their width. After lifting a couple of boards it is now evident that the previous occupant has at some point filled in between the joists with concrete but without any form of damp proofing so now the joists are like putty, the concrete is not level. I thought about about lifting the boards, laying a dpm and just laying new t&g boards to give a base for the laminate flooring. My question is - is this a crap idea ? Many thanks Franko. Rip it all out and do a concrete/DPM/insulation/screed job on it. Unless you are selling, in which case lay some supermarket polythene bags over the boards and then carpet. Yes, folks, thats how MY house was originally sold to me...;-) I think I'll go for the former option, I'd feel guilty forever if I sold the house at some point knowing that I'd bodged a job for someone else to find in the future and curse me, I still run through jobs in my mind that i did in my last house over 10 years ago wondering if I did everything correctly ! Franko. How much gap have you got now? - that is to say, how much lower is the concrete / rotten joists below the other floors in the house? Is the concrete up to the top of the joists? If it isn't, you can remove the remainder of the joists and put a few inches of concrete in, then get it asphalted about half an inch thick, I've seen asphalt laid over quarry tiles, rough concrete without DPM underneath and loads of other surfaces without any problems, the asphalt itself is a much better damp barrier than anything you can buy on a roll. The neighbours leak has been fixed so I can't see a problem with water pressure forcing any water through the latex although I realise that the damp will still rise through capillary action but I'm hoping that the dpm should hold that back. I'm not too worried about the joists at this time as the concrete seems to add support to the structure. Any thoughts on this course of action ? Franko. There's only one course of action. Ring your insurance company. :-) |
#25
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Flooring woes
I really would get this assessed by the insurance company. There may be
other serious damage that you are unaware of, e.g. undermining of foundations as the subsoil is slowly flushed away. Generally I'm relucanat to make an insurance claim, but there's a point at which you need to say "This is what I bought insurance for". |
#26
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Flooring woes
The message . com
from " contains these words: Generally I'm relucanat to make an insurance claim, but there's a point at which you need to say "This is what I bought insurance for". Like my parents in law. The burst pipe in the loft (away for a week) had run to nearly 25 grand so far. -- Skipweasel Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain. |
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