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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi,
I planning on descaling the DHW heat exchanger on my combi. It's an Ariston Microgenus 27 and the rate of flow has gradually declined since it's been installed (over three years ago). The descaling looks like an easy enough job, and removing the heat exchanger itself is dead easy, but before I make a complete fool of myself I've never really understood exactly how the combi does the DHW. Do I need to drain the boiler completely (and all the rads) or is just turning off the cold water feed to the combi enough? |
#2
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On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 11:49:33 -0700, Martin Pentreath wrote:
Hi, I planning on descaling the DHW heat exchanger on my combi. It's an Ariston Microgenus 27 and the rate of flow has gradually declined since it's been installed (over three years ago). The descaling looks like an easy enough job, and removing the heat exchanger itself is dead easy, but before I make a complete fool of myself I've never really understood exactly how the combi does the DHW. Do I need to drain the boiler completely (and all the rads) or is just turning off the cold water feed to the combi enough? Have you got the service manual? It will almost certainly involve draining the water out of the boiler but not the rads. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#3
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On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 11:49:33 -0700, Martin Pentreath wrote:
Hi, I planning on descaling the DHW heat exchanger on my combi. It's an Ariston Microgenus 27 and the rate of flow has gradually declined since it's been installed (over three years ago). The descaling looks like an easy enough job, and removing the heat exchanger itself is dead easy, but before I make a complete fool of myself I've never really understood exactly how the combi does the DHW. Do I need to drain the boiler completely (and all the rads) or is just turning off the cold water feed to the combi enough? You'll need at least to isolate the primary side as well, but most boilers have valves on the flow & return so you shouldn't have to drain the rads. |
#4
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In message .com,
Martin Pentreath writes The service manual does indeed say "the boiler must be drained of all water", but that's all it says, it doesn't say how to do that. .... Because not every boiler is installed in an identical fashion There should be valves to isolate the boiler, then you have to use a bit of grey matter to find where best to break the circuit I wasn't sure whether this means draining the rad circuit as well, but from what you're saying it doesn't. There's no obvious draining point underneath the boiler. Any advice on the usual procedure for draining just the boiler would be very welcome. -- geoff |
#5
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In article ,
raden writes: In message .com, Martin Pentreath writes The service manual does indeed say "the boiler must be drained of all water", but that's all it says, it doesn't say how to do that. ... Because not every boiler is installed in an identical fashion There should be valves to isolate the boiler, then you have to use a bit of grey matter to find where best to break the circuit ....bearing in mind the pressure vessel (which is presumably in the boiler) is going to squirt the water out either straight in your face or over the electrics inside the boiler, if you are not careful. There may be a drain point inside the boiler to release the pressure and water in a more controller manner. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#6
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Thanks for all advice. I have now found and studied the water circuit
digram and am a little wiser about how combis heat the domestic hot water. However, this boiler seems very annoying - I can isolate the primary circuit easily at the point where the CH flow and return enter the boiler, but I can't then find any way of draining the water from within the boiler. I'm just going to have to drain the whole system down and replace the inhibitor. |
#7
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On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 02:28:32 -0700, Martin Pentreath wrote:
Thanks for all advice. I have now found and studied the water circuit digram and am a little wiser about how combis heat the domestic hot water. However, this boiler seems very annoying - I can isolate the primary circuit easily at the point where the CH flow and return enter the boiler, but I can't then find any way of draining the water from within the boiler. I'm just going to have to drain the whole system down and replace the inhibitor. I've looked through the manual and it seems, sadly, you are right. However you may find that you can release the pressure with a drain cock. Then isolate and then remove the water from the boiler by opening a a union (you won't get sprayed if you have released the pressure). If the boiler is above the rads you have a much better than even chance of keeping the water in the rads. IMHO it is exactly this sort of feature (or lack of it) that is the difference between the differing quality of boiler models. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#8
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Thanks for the confirmation Ed.
Unfortunately the boiler is on the ground floor with two storeys above it. I think I'll just take the opportunity to flush the system through anyway while it's drained. Also while everything is empty I'm intending to put isolators on the flow and return pipework into the boiler and a drain cock above one of the isolators to make draining the boiler alone possible in future. |
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