Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base
of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there anything
else to consider first?

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject
- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Any thoughts?

TIA

--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base
of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there anything
else to consider first?

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject
- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Any thoughts?

TIA


Read my previous posts on damp meters and the fiasco we went through )c:

One of the botches the first injection company made was to use the wrong
kind of plaster - there is a special damp-resistant hydrophobic plaster
you should be using.
I believe it's called refurbishment plaster (Vandex).
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/produ...nt_plaster.php

Having read this from a sack in a skip you can make your own mind up...
There may be much cheaper alternatives.

--
-----------
Zoinks !
Another weekend b*ggered.
-----------

Grunff wrote:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried
all the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the
base of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of
lime plaster.
Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there
anything else to consider first?

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject
- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Basically yes.

1) take off the skirting board and hack off a metre (do the full wall, not
just a 3ft patch)
2) Drill two holes in each brick, approximately half way through (try not to
break off the back of the brick, and don't 'guess' - use a marker on the
bit) - this has to be done on the inner and outer skin and on the same
course.
3) Use a fairly strong mix of render for the base coat - about 4:1 - you
may have to do this in two, each coat being about 1/4 inch.
You can get waterproofing that goes in the mix, but be warned, don't leave
it for any length of time before adding the top coat of render because the
W/proofing will cause the second coat not to adhere, you'll have to do both
coats in the same day.
4) Skim as normal
5) replace (or renew) skirting board

If it were mine, I would leave it for a few months inbetween injection and
render, especially if it's in an inobtrusive place, but if it's in his
living room then he might want to get it finished within a few days, but it
will still take months for it to dry out.

HTH

Grunff wrote:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base
of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there anything
else to consider first?

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject
- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Any thoughts?

TIA

Rising damp exists, but in the vast majority of cases it isnt rising
damp. Condensation is many times more likely. So it makes more sense to
take measures against condensation than rising damp.

Lime based paint will let the wall evaporate dry (distemper), emulsion
reduces evaporation. Lowering the RH in the interior is needed to stop
condensation: look at your sources of dampness and address them.


NT

Grunff wrote:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp.

------ snip -----
TIA

--
Grunff

is it solid or cavity wall ? if cavity wall check cavity is not full up
with bits & pieces - bits of mortar, bits of slate (especially if been
re-roofed) bits of rubble old newspapers - certainly was the case in a
couple of late-1800's plaeces I have renovated - means removing a few
bricks (probably 1 every 4 bricks) above the founds level but if lime
mortar is fairly easy to cut into to remove a brick with out smashing
the brick...
then use an appropriate implement (L-shaped bit of anything) to drag
the contents of the cavity out.

is the outside rendered ? check for hollow sounds in case render is
blown in places
also what are the comparative floor levels of 'inside' and 'outside' -
check the 'outside' isn't higher than 'inside' - flowerbeds banked up
against the wall aren't a good idea...

if inside plaster is shot, knock it off then clean all the mortar out
of joints to about 1 inch
lime mortar doesn't mix well with some modern inside wall coverings.
don't use 'browning' for the first coat - opc/plasterer's sand (with
waterproofer) is better

scuse pelling mistafes

che

Grunff wrote in message
...
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff -

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot of
******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising Damp.
FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM
and
http://www.triton-chemicals.co.uk/pd...1DataSheet.pdf
as the necessary render admix.
Make you own mind up..
As this is a party wall you will need to consult the neighbour before
starting work, also if it is a cavity wall you really should try to clean
out the crap that will be by now filling the bottom few feet.
Which could be the underlying reason for the damp in the first place.



-

Phil L wrote:

1) take off the skirting board and hack off a metre (do the full
wall, not just a 3ft patch)
2) Drill two holes in each brick, approximately half way through (try
not to break off the back of the brick, and don't 'guess' - use a
marker on the bit) - this has to be done on the inner and outer skin
and on the same course.
3) Use a fairly strong mix of render for the base coat - about 4:1 - you
may have to do this in two, each coat being about 1/4 inch.
You can get waterproofing that goes in the mix, but be warned, don't
leave it for any length of time before adding the top coat of render
because the W/proofing will cause the second coat not to adhere,
you'll have to do both coats in the same day.
4) Skim as normal
5) replace (or renew) skirting board

If it were mine, I would leave it for a few months inbetween
injection and render, especially if it's in an inobtrusive place, but
if it's in his living room then he might want to get it finished
within a few days, but it will still take months for it to dry out.

HTH

Didn't see the bit about party wall.

After damp proofing the inner brick, you will need to drill through the
existing holes and into the second brick (which is in fact next doors) and
use long injection wands to inject the fluid into that, you'd be wise to
tell next doors that you are doing it and that they may smell some DP fluid,
I doubt if they will argue, but if they're awkwards *******s to begin with,
just don't tell them.

Grunff wrote:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base
of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there anything
else to consider first?

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject
- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Any thoughts?

TIA

--
Grunff

Hmmm.... any leaky pipes nearby?

Christian McArdle wrote:
I doubt if they will argue, but if they're awkwards *******s to
begin with, just don't tell them.

We have the same attitude to the Party Wall Act, then! We got the
beams for the loft conversion in nice and quick before any injunction
could be issued...

We get on well with both sets of neighbours. However, both houses are
rented out and landlords can be complete arses!


I agree, a lot of people like to create a fuss for no other reason than they
can and have various obscure 'laws' on their side, they gain nothing, but it
gives them a feeling of victory nontheless, my philosophy is 'do it first'
and any complaints afterwards are a matter fr the courts, who will usually
tell the busybody to **** off and get a life.

Mark wrote:
Grunff wrote in message
...
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried
all the basic stuff -

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot
of ******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising
Damp. FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM

That looks like good stuff, how much is it? and where can you get it?

Phil L wrote in message
. uk...
Mark wrote:
Grunff wrote in message
...
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried
all the basic stuff -

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot
of ******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising
Damp. FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM

That looks like good stuff, how much is it? and where can you get it?


?
follow the purchasing link




-

Mark wrote:
Phil L wrote in message
. uk...
Mark wrote:
Grunff wrote in message
...
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've
tried all the basic stuff -

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot
of ******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising
Damp. FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM

That looks like good stuff, how much is it? and where can you get it?


?
follow the purchasing link

Yes that says various builders merchants but doesn't mention the price, how
much did you pay for it?

Phil L wrote in message
. uk...

Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've
tried all the basic stuff -

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot
of ******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising
Damp. FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM

That looks like good stuff, how much is it? and where can you get it?


?
follow the purchasing link

Yes that says various builders merchants but doesn't mention the price,
how
much did you pay for it?


Oh sorry I thought that would lead to a prices page, try
http://www.dryzone-direct.co.uk/
you can get it cheaper from a BM if you have an account.
Its more expensive then pressure injecting, but for a party wall would be a
much better choice, as its not necessary to drill into the bricks.


-

Mark wrote:
Phil L wrote in message
. uk...

Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've
tried all the basic stuff -

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a
lot of ******** from experts who have never had any dealings with
rising Damp. FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM

That looks like good stuff, how much is it? and where can you get
it?


?
follow the purchasing link

Yes that says various builders merchants but doesn't mention the
price, how much did you pay for it?


Oh sorry I thought that would lead to a prices page, try
http://www.dryzone-direct.co.uk/
you can get it cheaper from a BM if you have an account.
Its more expensive then pressure injecting, but for a party wall
would be a much better choice, as its not necessary to drill into the
bricks.

That's not bad...the cream is a bit pricey but a lot less hassle, the
applicator is about 40 quid but it costs that to hire a pump for a day, and
very often it takes less than a day to do a full house meaning most of the
forty quid is wasted, with the applicator it's yours for good.

I may have to invest in one of these next time I get a DP job....the
silicone stinks to high heavens for 3 weeks after installation and leaves
large red sore patches on the skin.
Cheers for that info.

blue wrote:
Grunff wrote:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp.

is the outside rendered ? check for hollow sounds in case render is

The other side of a party wall is probably plastered and decorated ;-)

blown in places
also what are the comparative floor levels of 'inside' and 'outside' -

Both sides of a perty wall should be 'inside' ;-)

check the 'outside' isn't higher than 'inside' - flowerbeds banked up
against the wall aren't a good idea...

I sincerely hope not on a party wall ;-)

scuse pelling mistafes

An comprehension of the OP

MBQ

sorry, missed the "party" bit..

(as usual)

Grunff wrote:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base
of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course?

Yes.

Is there anything
else to consider first?


Possibly drainage round the house..if you have a suspended floor with
the party wall sitting in a small pond under it, you can improve matters
by draining the pond first..

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject
- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)


Just about. A waterproof render around the injection area at least means
the plaster won't form a damp bridge

Any thoughts?

TIA

Owain wrote:

Why is the party wall damp and not the other walls?

Other internal walls (brick) are also damp.


Is the underfloor space on both sides of the wall well ventilated?

Dunno yet, haven't been under there.


Is the wall damp on the other side?

Yes.


--
Grunff

wrote:

Rising damp exists, but in the vast majority of cases it isnt rising
damp. Condensation is many times more likely.

I know - in fact, I'm the one usually giving that lecture!


So it makes more sense to
take measures against condensation than rising damp.

That's what we've tried to do so far.


Lime based paint will let the wall evaporate dry (distemper), emulsion
reduces evaporation. Lowering the RH in the interior is needed to stop
condensation: look at your sources of dampness and address them.

We really have done this - ventilated, heated better and fitted a
dehumidifier.


--
Grunff

Phil wrote:

Hmmm.... any leaky pipes nearby?

No.

--
Grunff

Phil L wrote in message
k...


Oh sorry I thought that would lead to a prices page, try
http://www.dryzone-direct.co.uk/
you can get it cheaper from a BM if you have an account.
Its more expensive then pressure injecting, but for a party wall
would be a much better choice, as its not necessary to drill into the
bricks.

That's not bad...the cream is a bit pricey but a lot less hassle, the
applicator is about 40 quid but it costs that to hire a pump for a day,
and
very often it takes less than a day to do a full house meaning most of the
forty quid is wasted, with the applicator it's yours for good.

I may have to invest in one of these next time I get a DP job....the
silicone stinks to high heavens for 3 weeks after installation and leaves
large red sore patches on the skin.
Cheers for that info.


Yes, been there done that ;-(
you can get water based injection fluid which is not as obnoxious to use as
the spirit based silicone, and is ok when a much cheapness referb is
required.
But I have no personal knowledge of its long-term effectiveness.



-

Mark wrote:

Yes, been there done that ;-(
you can get water based injection fluid which is not as obnoxious to
use as the spirit based silicone, and is ok when a much cheapness
referb is required.
But I have no personal knowledge of its long-term effectiveness.


I'm always a bit wary of adding extra water to an already damp wall,
especially under pressure!
That said, if the house is quite dry and it's the middle of summer, I don't
suppose it would matter much, but I've still not got my head around water
based fence preservative yet.

Mark wrote:

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot of
******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising Damp.
FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM
and
http://www.triton-chemicals.co.uk/pd...1DataSheet.pdf
as the necessary render admix.
Make you own mind up..


Ok, thanks for the advice.

Would you recommend these products over a high pressure pump setup? My
hire shop does a pump + 25 litres of fluid for £92 (/day).


--
Grunff

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 12:37:48 +0100, Grunff wrote:


Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course?

Probably not, despite what people who install it might tell you :-).

Is there anything else to consider first?

If you can do it, the one thing that will cure it is the original
system which would have been used to keep damp at bay, a French
Ditch.

See
http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:KfuVCHskK2AJ:www.northwales.org.uk/jn/vernac.htm+french+ditch&hl=en&gl=uk&ct=clnk&cd=2

and
http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:gDWOEzJoSkUJ:www.northwales.org.uk/jn/guidance.htm+french+ditch&hl=en&gl=uk&ct=clnk&cd=1

(the pages don't seem to be directly accessible at the moment)

If it has been double glazed or has well fitting windows and doors
then ensuring there is adequate ventilation is also worthwhile. A
whole house ventilation system can be fitted for less than the
dampfmeisters not-so-magic glops and will make for a much more
comfortable environment.

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

Peter Parry wrote:

If you can do it, the one thing that will cure it is the original
system which would have been used to keep damp at bay, a French
Ditch.

Ah, but it is internal walls that are damp - external walls are ok.


If it has been double glazed or has well fitting windows and doors
then ensuring there is adequate ventilation is also worthwhile. A
whole house ventilation system can be fitted for less than the
dampfmeisters not-so-magic glops and will make for a much more
comfortable environment.

We really, honestly have done this - the house is reasonably well
ventilated, and has a dehumidifier.

You don't have to convince me about the damp scams - I know all about
them. But in this case, it is the bottom foot or so that's damp, and on
internal walls.

I wouldn't dream of getting someone in to do this, hire shops do a
pressure injector + fluid for under £100.


--
Grunff

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 17:04:26 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Grunff
wrote:

wrote:

Rising damp exists, but in the vast majority of cases it isnt rising
damp. Condensation is many times more likely.

I know - in fact, I'm the one usually giving that lecture!


So it makes more sense to
take measures against condensation than rising damp.

That's what we've tried to do so far.


Lime based paint will let the wall evaporate dry (distemper), emulsion
reduces evaporation. Lowering the RH in the interior is needed to stop
condensation: look at your sources of dampness and address them.

We really have done this - ventilated, heated better and fitted a
dehumidifier.

Didn't you check which kind of 'damp' it was first by mounting a glass
slide on the wall with a ring of Plasticine? Damp condenses on the
inside, condensation condenses on the outside IYSWIM ;-)

Phil

Phil Addison wrote:

Didn't you check which kind of 'damp' it was first by mounting a glass
slide on the wall with a ring of Plasticine? Damp condenses on the
inside, condensation condenses on the outside IYSWIM ;-)

That's a neat trick Phil - I'll try that next time I'm there, but I'm
pretty sure it is rising damp. These are internal walls, so not cold
enough to get much condensation.


--
Grunff

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 12:37:48 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Grunff
wrote:

Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base
of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there anything
else to consider first?

Yes, IMO.

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject
- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Any thoughts?

Apart from what the others have said...

See http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk....7084d801fb522f for
how the fluids work, and how to get it to fully saturate the bricks.

On the other hand, the very informative article
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/pdf_d..._damp_book.pdf on
the SafeGuard/DryZone site says you should inject into the mortar NOT
the bricks to make a waterproof layer BETWEEN courses. It also addresses
the rubble issue. This is one of the few sites that seem to really
understand the issues.

I used high pressure injection 10 years ago in an outhouse type
extension that had no DPC (and precious little footings) and the damp
has not risen through it since. The post referenced above refers to that
project. Due to leakages through various cracked bricks, I'm pretty sure
the mortar got a good soaking too, so maybe that's actually why it has
worked.

The DryZone stuff looks worth a go, certainly much less drilling than
the way I did it - do they offer a guarantee? Alternatively, if
injecting again, I think I would try injecting a course of bricks with 2
holes per brick (as I did before), AND make sure the mortar bed above
and below gets soaked as well. Belt and braces ;-)

The injection pump comes with a manifold feeding several injectors so
you can do several holes at a time. It takes quite a while to percolate
the stuff into the brickwork so the more the merrier. I think mine had 4
lances. And the pump makes a frightful racket.

The fluid is primarily white spirit (at least in the stuff I used) being
a carrier for the active ingredient, and it took 2 or 3 days for the
smell to subside afterwards.

HTH

Phil

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 14:45:00 GMT, in uk.d-i-y "Mark"
wrote:

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot of
******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising Damp.
FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM
and
http://www.triton-chemicals.co.uk/pd...1DataSheet.pdf
as the necessary render admix.

Great news - I've been waiting for someone to try them out. Can you give
any more details of the job/s you used them on?

Phil Addison wrote:

I used high pressure injection 10 years ago in an outhouse type
extension that had no DPC (and precious little footings) and the damp
has not risen through it since. The post referenced above refers to that
project. Due to leakages through various cracked bricks, I'm pretty sure
the mortar got a good soaking too, so maybe that's actually why it has
worked.

Thanks Phil, most useful.

With the white spirit based liquids, you'd think rendering would be
difficult afterwards - comments anyone?


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
Phil Addison wrote:

I used high pressure injection 10 years ago in an outhouse type
extension that had no DPC (and precious little footings) and the damp
has not risen through it since. The post referenced above refers to
that project. Due to leakages through various cracked bricks, I'm
pretty sure the mortar got a good soaking too, so maybe that's
actually why it has worked.

Thanks Phil, most useful.

With the white spirit based liquids, you'd think rendering would be
difficult afterwards - comments anyone?

The treated brick should be behind the skirting board, so no, rendering
should be straightforward, but heed the advice about 2nd coating over
waterproofed render in my other post.
Also don't 'spray' up the wall with the DP fluid, and don't render down to
the floor, leave a gap of a few inches.

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 18:59:51 +0100, Grunff wrote:

Peter Parry wrote:

If you can do it, the one thing that will cure it is the original
system which would have been used to keep damp at bay, a French
Ditch.

Ah, but it is internal walls that are damp - external walls are ok.

That's the common dampfmeisters scam - "ah look - internal walls -
must be rising damp". The house was designed to have damp feet. It
wasn't designed to have wet feet. The idea of the French ditch is
that it essentially isolates the house on an island of dry soil.
With imperfect foundations and the original damp control system
probably destroyed over time it is inevitable it will get wet.
Leaving it wet and putting a bit of temporary (for that is all it is)
water reduction glop in the wall is about as effective as trying to
stop an oil leak with elastoplast.

There is also the problem that treating one side simply moves the
problem to the other. Dampglop doesn't stop water rising, it merely
slows the rate down a little bit. The waterproof "plaster" is an
essential second component which allows the wall to stay wet without
the results being too noticeable. On a party wall if you plaster one
side the water simply goes to the other which is really going to
please the neighbours no end.

As with any water problem you need to eliminate the problem at its
source - not stick things on afterwards in the hope they will work.
A French ditch achieves this by removing the water from the house.
Once this has been done there is no need for elastoplast treatments.

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

I really would have a peep under the floor if possible. I had a neighbour in
a victorian terrace who discovered a pond under his living room floor, as a
result of a cracked cast iron pipe. I forget for the moment whether this was
the bathroom waste, or from the roof (the gutter downpipe was cemented into
the party wall and coupled somewhere into the normal drains).

Peter Parry wrote:

That's the common dampfmeisters scam - "ah look - internal walls -
must be rising damp". The house was designed to have damp feet. It
wasn't designed to have wet feet. The idea of the French ditch is
that it essentially isolates the house on an island of dry soil.
With imperfect foundations and the original damp control system
probably destroyed over time it is inevitable it will get wet.
Leaving it wet and putting a bit of temporary (for that is all it is)
water reduction glop in the wall is about as effective as trying to
stop an oil leak with elastoplast.


Hmm, ok, I see where you're going with this.

The problem with the French trench approach is implementation. I'll explain.

A few years ago, we had a damp problem, which you advised me to remedy
by putting in a French trench. We did this, along with fixing the
heating + ventilation issues, and it worked a treat.

Putting in the trench was easy, because our house is detached, and
essentially stands in the middle of a field, surrounded by soil.

This friend's house is a different kettle of fish. It's a semi
(actually, it's an end of terrace), it fronts onto a public road (so the
front wall of the house meets tarmac at its foot), and has a concrete
yard along the non-attached side and part of the back. Achieving a
continuous trench around the house would be impossible without a)
digging up the road and b) continuing the trench around a long row of
terraced houses :-)

Given this, what would you suggest?


--
Grunff

Newshound wrote:
I really would have a peep under the floor if possible. I had a neighbour in
a victorian terrace who discovered a pond under his living room floor, as a
result of a cracked cast iron pipe. I forget for the moment whether this was
the bathroom waste, or from the roof (the gutter downpipe was cemented into
the party wall and coupled somewhere into the normal drains).

I will try to, but TBH I'm not even sure it's a suspended floor -
there's currently laminate there, so I don't know if it's over
floorboards or concrete.


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote in message
...
Mark wrote:

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot of
******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising Damp.
FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM
and
http://www.triton-chemicals.co.uk/pd...1DataSheet.pdf
as the necessary render admix.
Make you own mind up..


Ok, thanks for the advice.

Would you recommend these products over a high pressure pump setup? My
hire shop does a pump + 25 litres of fluid for £92 (/day).


It depends on the construction of the party wall and the condition of the
bricks and mortar.
With pressure injection Ive had a neighbour go ballistic about the smell,
and worse I leaked a gallon of the fluid into a neighbours kitchen, that
didn't go down well either ;(
Dryzone is more expensive but for use on a party wall its almost odour free
and being a grease like substance shouldn't leak into next door.
I can't stress enough that the re-plastering is perhaps even more important
then whichever DPM you use, both in the
admix dilution, mixing and coat thickness used.




-

Mark wrote:

Dryzone is more expensive but for use on a party wall its almost odour free
and being a grease like substance shouldn't leak into next door.

Ok, noted.

I can't stress enough that the re-plastering is perhaps even more important
then whichever DPM you use, both in the
admix dilution, mixing and coat thickness used.

Got that. Thanks for the advice.


--
Grunff

Phil Addison wrote in message
wrote:

Unfortunately as always on this subject, you are going to hear a lot of
******** from experts who have never had any dealings with rising Damp.
FWIW I have successfully used these products
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone.php
as a DPM
and
http://www.triton-chemicals.co.uk/pd...1DataSheet.pdf
as the necessary render admix.

Great news - I've been waiting for someone to try them out. Can you give
any more details of the job/s you used them on?

See reply to Grunff
I have used it on party walls, I also like the fact that you don't need to
drill a bottom course of bricks full of 10mm holes,
old Victorian bricks that have been damp for a number of years sometimes
disintegrate when drilling the second hole.
injecting into the mortar allows you to easily make good any small damage.
Ask me again in 15 years if it is as good as the liquid in brick method.



-

In article
Grunff wrote:
snip
This friend's house is a different kettle of fish. It's a semi
(actually, it's an end of terrace), it fronts onto a public road (so the
front wall of the house meets tarmac at its foot), and has a concrete
yard along the non-attached side and part of the back. Achieving a
continuous trench around the house would be impossible without a)
digging up the road and b) continuing the trench around a long row of
terraced houses :-)

Given this, what would you suggest?

Depending on the topology and geology, how about a sump?

In article ,
Grunff writes:
Hi all,

A friend lives in an 1870s semi. The party wall is damp. We've tried all
the basic stuff - the room is well ventilated and well heated, we
stripped the wallpaper, let it dry out, and painted it. A year later,
the paint is peeling. The damp is confined to a narrow band at the base
of the wall. The wall is made of brick, with a 1/2" layer of lime plaster.

Is this a good case for an injected damp proof course? Is there anything
else to consider first?

You really have to prove it is rising damp before doing
this sort of treatment, or you can make it much worse.
How far is it rising above ground level (not floor level)?
Is the sub-floor area swimming in a water leak?
What is the wall construction, e.g. cavity, in which case
water could be entering it from the top and running into
cavity rubble at he bottom. (House is a bit old for cavity,
but some areas were just starting to use them around then.)

If yes, then am I right in thinking that this is what to do:
- hack off the plaster to 1 metre height
- drill holes and inject

If you have floor joist ends and wall plate embedded in the
wall, you have to do this below them, although chances are they
will have already started rotting. Party walls usually don't
as the floor joists usually run front to back, but you should
check this.

- re-plaster (what with? cement render first then skim?)

Cement render with waterproofer additive will prevent mild
levels of damp reaching a gypsom plaster finish coat. Lime
plaster on the other hand will allow mild levels of damp to
pass through it without coming to any harm (providing you
use appropriate decorative finish which doesn't seal it).

--
Andrew Gabriel