I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my proposed
single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the beams being less
than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them some
10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them in position.
I understand that, because of the position of the reinforcement within these
beams I they can only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends,
I assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section of the beam
and to lift them in the middle would put the top of the beam in tension and
cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have any tips
or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the task? I
have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large pincer type
tools having horisontal handles which two men on either side would lift to
place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

Donwill

Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my proposed
single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the beams being less
than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them some
10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them in position.
I understand that, because of the position of the reinforcement within these
beams I they can only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends,
I assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section of the beam
and to lift them in the middle would put the top of the beam in tension and
cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have any tips
or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the task? I
have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large pincer type
tools having horisontal handles which two men on either side would lift to
place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

How on earth do you expect an answer on a DIY forum with so little
information? Do you think we can read your mind or any of the
correspondence sitting on your buraux?

"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
oups.com...

Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed
single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the beams being
less
than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some
10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them in
position.
I understand that, because of the position of the reinforcement within
these
beams I they can only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the
ends,
I assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section of the
beam
and to lift them in the middle would put the top of the beam in tension
and
cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have any
tips
or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the task?
I
have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large pincer
type
tools having horisontal handles which two men on either side would lift
to
place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

How on earth do you expect an answer on a DIY forum with so little
information? Do you think we can read your mind or any of the
correspondence sitting on your buraux?

I would have thought it was obvious to anyone who has actually had
experience in installing this type of flooring . If you don't understand
what I am asking then clearly you do not have this experience and any
contribution you can make is merely guesswork on your part which I am not
interested in, thanks but I can make my own guesses, I am looking for
informed practical experience.
Donwill

Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the
beams being less than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some 10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them
in position. I understand that, because of the position of the
reinforcement within these beams I they can only be lifted at the
ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends, I assume that the reinforcement
is placed in the bottom section of the beam and to lift them in the
middle would put the top of the beam in tension and cause them to
crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have
any tips or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the
task? I have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large
pincer type tools having horisontal handles which two men on either
side would lift to place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

Donwill

Reccomended isn't the same as being told you have to, you could have a solid
concrete floor with insulation underneath or a traditional wooden joist and
floorboard floor...TBH most building control officers aren't too interested
in what the floor is like and if you inform him that you intend putting a
solid floor in he will accept this 99% of the time.
The only reason I can think of for having this type of floor is to retain
ventilation under the existing house floor which is suspended? - if this is
the case, you can put ducting underneath a concrete floor and vents on the
outside wall of the extension to retain the existing ventilation.

If you decide to go ahead with this costly block and beam suggestion, you
will find that there's no easy way around it, it's a person at either end
and plenty of grunting, swearing and grazed knuckles.

HTH

"Phil L" wrote in message
k...
Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the
beams being less than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some 10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them
in position. I understand that, because of the position of the
reinforcement within these beams I they can only be lifted at the
ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends, I assume that the reinforcement
is placed in the bottom section of the beam and to lift them in the
middle would put the top of the beam in tension and cause them to
crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have
any tips or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the
task? I have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large
pincer type tools having horisontal handles which two men on either
side would lift to place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

Donwill

Reccomended isn't the same as being told you have to, you could have a
solid
concrete floor with insulation underneath or a traditional wooden joist
and
floorboard floor...TBH most building control officers aren't too
interested
in what the floor is like and if you inform him that you intend putting a
solid floor in he will accept this 99% of the time.
The only reason I can think of for having this type of floor is to retain
ventilation under the existing house floor which is suspended? - if this
is
the case, you can put ducting underneath a concrete floor and vents on the
outside wall of the extension to retain the existing ventilation.

If you decide to go ahead with this costly block and beam suggestion, you
will find that there's no easy way around it, it's a person at either end
and plenty of grunting, swearing and grazed knuckles.

HTH

Actually I have a fairly substantial tree trunk 2ft dia at 18ins above grnd
level in the middle of the area, the tree was cut down approx 15 months
ago,the ground is clay and there is, possibly a lot of infill by the
original builders.
The local building control have taken an unholy intrest in the proposed
foundations, there has been some foundation problems in the past with
similar bungalows within 70metres,and in the estate, although , they were
built in the locality of a pond. Consequently I employed a structural
engineer to advise me.( well worth £70 I think).
He advised against raft foundations and went for trench foundations to the
satisfaction of the BI, with a suspended insulated beam & block type floor
to reduce the risk of problems of ground heave. The "Fastfloor Heatsave"
materials delivered(27sqM) are quoted as approx £1,000 which is expensive I
guess, but I would be foolish to pay for advice by a professional and then
not take it.
My problem is handling the beams which are specified at 31 Kgs per metre
hence the plea for advice from people who have actually installed a floor of
this type.
Thanks for your interest
Regards
Donwill

Weatherlawyer Wrote:
Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed
single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the beams being
less
than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some
10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them in
position.
I understand that, because of the position of the reinforcement within
these
beams I they can only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the
ends,
I assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section of the
beam
and to lift them in the middle would put the top of the beam in
tension and
cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have
any tips
or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the
task? I
have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large pincer
type
tools having horisontal handles which two men on either side would
lift to
place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

How on earth do you expect an answer on a DIY forum with so little
information? Do you think we can read your mind or any of the
correspondence sitting on your buraux?

I've install loads of these floors over the years and you do not need
to worry about breaking them. They are designed to be installed one way
only but they are still very strong sections and you would be hard
pressed to damage one while installing them however you choose to pick
them up. They are heavy but two strong blokes can pick up a 4m beam
(three blokes would make it easier) and you can then carrry/lift them
into place.
For what its worth, you asked a simple question about handling concrete
floor beams, how much more information was needed ?
Go for it mate.


--
Nick H

Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my proposed
single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the beams being less
than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them some
10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them in position.
I understand that, because of the position of the reinforcement within these
beams I they can only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends,
I assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section of the beam
and to lift them in the middle would put the top of the beam in tension and
cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have any tips
or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the task? I
have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large pincer type
tools having horisontal handles which two men on either side would lift to
place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

Donwill


You will need two people with adequate fitness.

You can support them in the middle only, if you turn them upside down..

But I'd get a pair of slings and shoulder hoist them using those and
walk them in.

You may need an angle grinder to trim them if they are oversize.

They are pretty strong - I doubt they would crack although 4.2m is a
very long run..ISTR that I had to have a halfway foundation in at the
center of a 6m span. That gave us 3m lengths to manhandle in - they were
not too bad.

I suppose you could trolley them in on something if you have a smooth
level run from where they are delivered, but in the end you are hong to
have to lift each end and drop them in place somehow. As I said, rope
slings at each end has to be the simplest.

A third person to get the spacing right with a block at each end is also
useful..be wary of tapping them too hard with a hammer :-)Rubber mallet
is best, or club hammer on softwood block.

Donwill wrote:
"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
oups.com...
Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed
single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the beams being
less
than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some
10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them in
position.
I understand that, because of the position of the reinforcement within
these
beams I they can only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the
ends,
I assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section of the
beam
and to lift them in the middle would put the top of the beam in tension
and
cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have any
tips
or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the task?
I
have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large pincer
type
tools having horisontal handles which two men on either side would lift
to
place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

How on earth do you expect an answer on a DIY forum with so little
information? Do you think we can read your mind or any of the
correspondence sitting on your buraux?

I would have thought it was obvious to anyone who has actually had
experience in installing this type of flooring . If you don't understand
what I am asking then clearly you do not have this experience and any
contribution you can make is merely guesswork on your part which I am not
interested in, thanks but I can make my own guesses, I am looking for
informed practical experience.
Donwill


I have to agree with you, it is fairly obvious to anyone who has.

Phil L wrote:
Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension,

The only reason I can think of for having this type of floor is to retain
ventilation under the existing house floor which is suspended? - if this is
the case, you can put ducting underneath a concrete floor and vents on the
outside wall of the extension to retain the existing ventilation.

Not at all. There are very valid reasons to do with soil movement on
clay as well. If the ground is liable to shrink or heave - classic
example being foundations that have cut through numerous tree roots, or
a tree has been removed, or if indeed the topsoil is loose and unstable,
then a solid floor will never be stable enough unless so much material
is removed and subsituted with hardcore, that it ends up costing more.

Or indeed that the house is on a slope, and there is a large underfloor
void to be filled anyway.

If you decide to go ahead with this costly block and beam suggestion, you
will find that there's no easy way around it, it's a person at either end
and plenty of grunting, swearing and grazed knuckles.


Wear gloves. Use strong people. Take it steady.

Oh and go for at least 70mm of styrene insulation. and watch out for
cold bridges at the edges.


HTH

"Donwill" popple @diddle .dot wrote in message
...

"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
oups.com...

Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed
single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the beams being
less
than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some
10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them in
position.
I understand that, because of the position of the reinforcement within
these
beams I they can only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the
ends,
I assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section of the
beam
and to lift them in the middle would put the top of the beam in
tension
and
cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have
any
tips
or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the
task?
I
have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large pincer
type
tools having horisontal handles which two men on either side would
lift
to
place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

How on earth do you expect an answer on a DIY forum with so little
information? Do you think we can read your mind or any of the
correspondence sitting on your buraux?

I would have thought it was obvious to anyone who has actually had
experience in installing this type of flooring . If you don't understand
what I am asking then clearly you do not have this experience and any
contribution you can make is merely guesswork on your part which I am not
interested in, thanks but I can make my own guesses, I am looking for
informed practical experience.
Donwill

Well said that man

PhilC

Donwill wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
k...
Reccomended isn't the same as being told you have to, you could have
a solid concrete floor with insulation underneath or a traditional
wooden joist and floorboard floor...TBH most building control
officers aren't too interested in what the floor is like and if you
inform him that you intend putting a solid floor in he will accept
this 99% of the time.
The only reason I can think of for having this type of floor is to
retain ventilation under the existing house floor which is
suspended? - if this is the case, you can put ducting underneath a
concrete floor and vents on the outside wall of the extension to
retain the existing ventilation.

If you decide to go ahead with this costly block and beam
suggestion, you will find that there's no easy way around it, it's a
person at either end and plenty of grunting, swearing and grazed
knuckles.

HTH

Actually I have a fairly substantial tree trunk 2ft dia at 18ins
above grnd level in the middle of the area, the tree was cut down
approx 15 months ago,the ground is clay and there is, possibly a lot
of infill by the original builders.
The local building control have taken an unholy intrest in the
proposed foundations, there has been some foundation problems in the
past with similar bungalows within 70metres,and in the estate,
although , they were built in the locality of a pond. Consequently I
employed a structural engineer to advise me.( well worth £70 I think).
He advised against raft foundations and went for trench foundations
to the satisfaction of the BI, with a suspended insulated beam &
block type floor to reduce the risk of problems of ground heave. The
"Fastfloor Heatsave" materials delivered(27sqM) are quoted as approx
£1,000 which is expensive I guess, but I would be foolish to pay for
advice by a professional and then not take it.
My problem is handling the beams which are specified at 31 Kgs per
metre hence the plea for advice from people who have actually
installed a floor of this type.
Thanks for your interest
Regards
Donwill

Wooden joists and floorboards will have the same effect inthat the joists
are sitting on the foundations just the same as the concrete beams would
be...the biggest problem here is the tree trunk, or more to the point, the
roots, especially considering it's in clay.
This is how subsidence works, the roots dry out the clay, which cannot
readilly soak water back in and so it shrinks causing subsidence in existing
buildings, now that it has been removed, the clay /could/ swell and cause
the ground heave the structural engineer mentioned, and this is what you
have paid your £70 for, but a suspended floor is a suspended floor,
regardless of it's construction materials.

Remember that whichever materials you use, you must provide ventilation
under the floor.

Donwill wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
k...
Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the
beams being less than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some 10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them
in position. I understand that, because of the position of the
reinforcement within these beams I they can only be lifted at the
ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends, I assume that the reinforcement
is placed in the bottom section of the beam and to lift them in the
middle would put the top of the beam in tension and cause them to
crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have
any tips or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the
task? I have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large
pincer type tools having horisontal handles which two men on either
side would lift to place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

Donwill
Reccomended isn't the same as being told you have to, you could have a
solid
concrete floor with insulation underneath or a traditional wooden joist
and
floorboard floor...TBH most building control officers aren't too
interested
in what the floor is like and if you inform him that you intend putting a
solid floor in he will accept this 99% of the time.
The only reason I can think of for having this type of floor is to retain
ventilation under the existing house floor which is suspended? - if this
is
the case, you can put ducting underneath a concrete floor and vents on the
outside wall of the extension to retain the existing ventilation.

If you decide to go ahead with this costly block and beam suggestion, you
will find that there's no easy way around it, it's a person at either end
and plenty of grunting, swearing and grazed knuckles.

HTH

Actually I have a fairly substantial tree trunk 2ft dia at 18ins above grnd
level in the middle of the area, the tree was cut down approx 15 months
ago,the ground is clay and there is, possibly a lot of infill by the
original builders.

Right. Block and beam it is. You have been well advised IMHO.

The local building control have taken an unholy intrest in the proposed
foundations, there has been some foundation problems in the past with
similar bungalows within 70metres,and in the estate, although , they were
built in the locality of a pond. Consequently I employed a structural
engineer to advise me.( well worth £70 I think).
He advised against raft foundations and went for trench foundations to the
satisfaction of the BI, with a suspended insulated beam & block type floor
to reduce the risk of problems of ground heave.

Absolutely. Same as me, and I have had no problems, and it went in fast
and easy. Its just HARD WORK :-

The "Fastfloor Heatsave"
materials delivered(27sqM) are quoted as approx £1,000 which is expensive I
guess, but I would be foolish to pay for advice by a professional and then
not take it.

Dunno what those are, i just used blocks, and beams made up for my
job..standard poly insulation, a DPM and a screed..

My problem is handling the beams which are specified at 31 Kgs per metre
hence the plea for advice from people who have actually installed a floor of
this type.

So 122kg per 4m beam. Hmm ..That is pushing it a bit. It IS doable with
two hard men..but its a bit more than I expected..its also a very long
span. You will get some bounce on that floor.

If you can get four people, two poles and two slings and there are no
doorways to go through it will be a lot easier.

The other possibility is hiring a small crane, or something like a
digger that can do the lift and carry bit, although you will have to use
slings to support at the ends, not in the middle.

If you have three tough mates who will help for a slap up meal with lots
of beer, go that route. If its just you, I'd hire a crane or digger with
a driver. With something with tracks, and a 2 meter reach you can crane
them in.

A lot depends on exactly what you have there sitewise. If you can get
right in over the area, and there is some hard ground, a crane of small
dimensions will be the easy solution. 122kg is nothing or even a small
digger at full stretch...takes about half a ton to make them tip over
...DAMHIKT ;-)









Thanks for your interest
Regards
Donwill

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
classic
example being foundations that have cut through numerous tree roots,
or a tree has been removed,

This bit hadn't been mentioned when I sent my reply.
:-p

"Donwill" popple @diddle .dot wrote in message
...

"Phil L" wrote in message
k...
Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor to my
proposed single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room extension, the
beams being less than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry them
some 10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to place them
in position. I understand that, because of the position of the
reinforcement within these beams I they can only be lifted at the
ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends, I assume that the reinforcement
is placed in the bottom section of the beam and to lift them in the
middle would put the top of the beam in tension and cause them to
crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you have
any tips or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with the
task? I have a picture in my mind of railway track layers using large
pincer type tools having horisontal handles which two men on either
side would lift to place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

Donwill

Reccomended isn't the same as being told you have to, you could have a
solid
concrete floor with insulation underneath or a traditional wooden joist
and
floorboard floor...TBH most building control officers aren't too
interested
in what the floor is like and if you inform him that you intend putting
a
solid floor in he will accept this 99% of the time.
The only reason I can think of for having this type of floor is to
retain
ventilation under the existing house floor which is suspended? - if this
is
the case, you can put ducting underneath a concrete floor and vents on
the
outside wall of the extension to retain the existing ventilation.

If you decide to go ahead with this costly block and beam suggestion,
you
will find that there's no easy way around it, it's a person at either
end
and plenty of grunting, swearing and grazed knuckles.

HTH

Actually I have a fairly substantial tree trunk 2ft dia at 18ins above
grnd
level in the middle of the area, the tree was cut down approx 15 months
ago,the ground is clay and there is, possibly a lot of infill by the
original builders.
The local building control have taken an unholy intrest in the proposed
foundations, there has been some foundation problems in the past with
similar bungalows within 70metres,and in the estate, although , they were
built in the locality of a pond. Consequently I employed a structural
engineer to advise me.( well worth £70 I think).
He advised against raft foundations and went for trench foundations to the
satisfaction of the BI, with a suspended insulated beam & block type floor
to reduce the risk of problems of ground heave. The "Fastfloor Heatsave"
materials delivered(27sqM) are quoted as approx £1,000 which is expensive
I
guess, but I would be foolish to pay for advice by a professional and then
not take it.
My problem is handling the beams which are specified at 31 Kgs per metre
hence the plea for advice from people who have actually installed a floor
of
this type.
Thanks for your interest
Regards
Donwill

I believe the pincer type tool could be a Kerb Laying tool have used these
for manouvering pressed slabs. Only seen beam and block on large scale
buildings where the beams are craned in. Would it be possible to "crane" in
beams with a mini digger?

PhilC

Have you considered using floor joists, insulated and finished with
floor boards?Could be stained and used as the finished floor? The use
of the silent floor joists enables very long spans with minimul weight.
Legin

Donwill wrote:
"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
oups.com...

Donwill wrote:
I've been recomended to use an insulated beam and block floor
to my proposed single storey flat roof kitchen/dining room
extension, the beams being less than 4.2 Metres long.
The proposed beams are quite heavy and I(we) will have to carry
them some 10Metres and manipulate them in a confined space to
place them in position. I understand that, because of the
position of the reinforcement within these beams I they can
only be lifted at the ends i.e. within 500mm of the ends, I
assume that the reinforcement is placed in the bottom section
of the beam and to lift them in the middle would put the top of
the beam in tension and cause them to crack or break
Has anyone had experience of installing these beams and do you
have any tips or recomendations to pass on please.
Are there any tools or trolleys that can be hired to help with
the task? I have a picture in my mind of railway track layers
using large pincer type tools having horisontal handles which
two men on either side would lift to place the rail in position.
Any comments or useful information gratefully received.

How on earth do you expect an answer on a DIY forum with so
little information? Do you think we can read your mind or any of
the correspondence sitting on your buraux?

I would have thought it was obvious to anyone who has actually had
experience in installing this type of flooring . If you don't
understand what I am asking then clearly you do not have this
experience and any contribution you can make is merely guesswork
on your part which I am not interested in, thanks but I can make
my own guesses, I am looking for informed practical experience.

There was nothing wrong with your question Don, and I hope you find useful
advice here.

Phil L wrote:
Donwill wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
k...
Reccomended isn't the same as being told you have to, you could have
a solid concrete floor with insulation underneath or a traditional
wooden joist and floorboard floor...TBH most building control
officers aren't too interested in what the floor is like and if you
inform him that you intend putting a solid floor in he will accept
this 99% of the time.
The only reason I can think of for having this type of floor is to
retain ventilation under the existing house floor which is
suspended? - if this is the case, you can put ducting underneath a
concrete floor and vents on the outside wall of the extension to
retain the existing ventilation.

If you decide to go ahead with this costly block and beam
suggestion, you will find that there's no easy way around it, it's a
person at either end and plenty of grunting, swearing and grazed
knuckles.

HTH

Actually I have a fairly substantial tree trunk 2ft dia at 18ins
above grnd level in the middle of the area, the tree was cut down
approx 15 months ago,the ground is clay and there is, possibly a lot
of infill by the original builders.
The local building control have taken an unholy intrest in the
proposed foundations, there has been some foundation problems in the
past with similar bungalows within 70metres,and in the estate,
although , they were built in the locality of a pond. Consequently I
employed a structural engineer to advise me.( well worth £70 I think).
He advised against raft foundations and went for trench foundations
to the satisfaction of the BI, with a suspended insulated beam &
block type floor to reduce the risk of problems of ground heave. The
"Fastfloor Heatsave" materials delivered(27sqM) are quoted as approx
£1,000 which is expensive I guess, but I would be foolish to pay for
advice by a professional and then not take it.
My problem is handling the beams which are specified at 31 Kgs per
metre hence the plea for advice from people who have actually
installed a floor of this type.
Thanks for your interest
Regards
Donwill

Wooden joists and floorboards will have the same effect inthat the joists
are sitting on the foundations just the same as the concrete beams would
be...the biggest problem here is the tree trunk, or more to the point, the
roots, especially considering it's in clay.
This is how subsidence works, the roots dry out the clay, which cannot
readilly soak water back in and so it shrinks causing subsidence in existing
buildings, now that it has been removed, the clay /could/ swell and cause
the ground heave the structural engineer mentioned, and this is what you
have paid your £70 for, but a suspended floor is a suspended floor,
regardless of it's construction materials.

Remember that whichever materials you use, you must provide ventilation
under the floor.



So they say, but I can't see the point in ventilating concrete.

Nick H wrote:
Weatherlawyer Wrote:

For what its worth, you asked a simple question about handling concrete
floor beams, how much more information was needed ?

For me, the term "concrete" might have helped. Or clairvoyance.

How long have you had that gift? Is it true what they say?

PhilC wrote:


Well said that man

PhilC

I agree. What is it with some of the people on this group? The man simply
asked for some help, not to be attacked. If I had any knowledge of the
subject I would be pleased to help.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

Many thanks for the responses, will also look at " silent floor"

Cheers
Donwill

In article .com
Weatherlawyer wrote:

Nick H wrote:
Weatherlawyer Wrote:

For what its worth, you asked a simple question about handling concrete
floor beams, how much more information was needed ?

For me, the term "concrete" might have helped.

If you couldn't figure that out you probably don't have enough
experience to give a useful response anyway.