Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and a
"parallel thread"?

The word "taper" implies a gradual reduction to my mind, but this
doesn't square
with the whole purpose of a thread.

Reason behind this is my researching an alternative set of tails for a
bar mixer for
a power shower.
I've bought a 3 bar pump and the book tells me to run the output in
22mm as far
as practical.
We picked up all the fittings for our new en-suite in the sales in
January, and it's only
now that I've got round to taking a closer look at the plumbing.
My plan is to run a pair of 22mm copper pipes down a stud wall cavity
and then turn
these out ninety degrees into the shower bay and connect to the mixer
bar.
The mixer bar comes with a pair of dog-leg fittings - three quarters
bsp male on one
end, half inch bsp male on the other.
When you look inside the dog-leg the aperture is (roughly) ten
millimetres. From a 22mm
pipe down to 10mm feels wasteful, hence this quest to find a better
fitting.

On my desk is a 22mm female to three-quarters male straight BSP
fitting courtesy of Screwfix.
The BSP thread isn't deep enough to attach the mixer bar (the mixer bar
nut grounds out
before it tightens: no use).
Ecstasy would be an elbow joint taking 22mm copper pipe on one end and
having (say) a
two inch long 3/4" BSP male thread (so I could cut it down if
necessary) on the other
end. I could even find a nut for the 3/4" thread and attach the fitting
to some marine
plywood as part of the install (someone here posted a URL of some
pictures on how
they did this: can't seem to find it - would the owner reply please
with the url?)
I suppose a 22mm female elbow connecting to a 3/4" bsp female could be
of use,
especially with some "barrel nipples" (found via another thread here on
uk.d-i-y; all
the jokes on this phrase also covered too).

Any help appreciated; thanks in advance

Mungo

On 15 Mar 2006 23:50:38 -0800, "Mungo" wrote:

Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and a
"parallel thread"?

The word "taper" implies a gradual reduction to my mind, but this
doesn't square
with the whole purpose of a thread.

Taper fittings are often used for fittings involving gases and either
PTFE tape or a sealant are used with them.

An alternative sometimes used with compressed air for example, are
parallel thread fittings with a flange at the top where two flat
surfaces meet and an O-ring to seal.

Some people do try to use taper male threaded fittings in parallel
female fittings again with PTFE tape, but it is not best practice for
some applications.

For water, parallel threaded fittings are used.




Reason behind this is my researching an alternative set of tails for a
bar mixer for
a power shower.
I've bought a 3 bar pump and the book tells me to run the output in
22mm as far
as practical.
We picked up all the fittings for our new en-suite in the sales in
January, and it's only
now that I've got round to taking a closer look at the plumbing.
My plan is to run a pair of 22mm copper pipes down a stud wall cavity
and then turn
these out ninety degrees into the shower bay and connect to the mixer
bar.
The mixer bar comes with a pair of dog-leg fittings - three quarters
bsp male on one
end, half inch bsp male on the other.
When you look inside the dog-leg the aperture is (roughly) ten
millimetres. From a 22mm
pipe down to 10mm feels wasteful, hence this quest to find a better
fitting.

On my desk is a 22mm female to three-quarters male straight BSP
fitting courtesy of Screwfix.
The BSP thread isn't deep enough to attach the mixer bar (the mixer bar
nut grounds out
before it tightens: no use).
Ecstasy would be an elbow joint taking 22mm copper pipe on one end and
having (say) a
two inch long 3/4" BSP male thread (so I could cut it down if
necessary) on the other
end. I could even find a nut for the 3/4" thread and attach the fitting
to some marine
plywood as part of the install (someone here posted a URL of some
pictures on how
they did this: can't seem to find it - would the owner reply please
with the url?)
I suppose a 22mm female elbow connecting to a 3/4" bsp female could be
of use,
especially with some "barrel nipples" (found via another thread here on
uk.d-i-y; all
the jokes on this phrase also covered too).

Any help appreciated; thanks in advance

Mungo

I think that you may well have to go for the barrel option. I presume
that the reason for looking at taper fittings was that some don't have
the shoulder on the male part of the fitting and would screw in
further. This *might* work, but I think a better solution would be
to use a barrel.

Possibly BES part no. 6577 would be long enough.


--

..andy

"Mungo" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and
a
"parallel thread"?

The word "taper" implies a gradual reduction to my mind, but this
doesn't square
with the whole purpose of a thread.


Like Andy says: taper threads seal on the threads, with the help of
hemp, gunge, ptfe, or various combinations thereof, so you have to feel
the thing tighten gradually, not stop suddenly when metal meets metal.
Parallel threads seal elsewhe an olive or a washer, commonly.

Reason behind this is my researching an alternative set of tails for a
bar mixer for
a power shower.
I've bought a 3 bar pump and the book tells me to run the output in
22mm as far
as practical.
We picked up all the fittings for our new en-suite in the sales in
January, and it's only
now that I've got round to taking a closer look at the plumbing.
My plan is to run a pair of 22mm copper pipes down a stud wall cavity
and then turn
these out ninety degrees into the shower bay and connect to the mixer
bar.
The mixer bar comes with a pair of dog-leg fittings - three quarters
bsp male on one
end, half inch bsp male on the other.
When you look inside the dog-leg the aperture is (roughly) ten
millimetres. From a 22mm
pipe down to 10mm feels wasteful, hence this quest to find a better
fitting.

You've got plenty of pressure from the pump, the 22mm pipe will not drop
much pressure, and you're about to put the water through assorted narrow
passageways in the mixer before sending both hot and cold down an 11mm
hose. I wouldn't worry about an inch or two of 10mm constriction.

Given that all this plumbing is likely to be a tad inaccessible once
it's done: KISS.

Don't even consider using any iron fittings in this setup.


--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***
Car Transport by Tiltbed Trailer - based near Derby

Mungo wrote:
Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and a
"parallel thread"?

Go to local Plumbers Merchant and get a suitably sized fibre washer to
fit over the 3/4" thread and slide up to the flange. Then fit. Do not
use 'O' rings as probably made of EDPM rubber and may deterioate.

Failing that, make a washer out of Hemp & use Boss White. I have been a
C & G Plumber for 50 years and aint seen a hemp/ Boss White fail yet
through the Hemp/Boss White.

"Mungo" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and a
"parallel thread"?

The word "taper" implies a gradual reduction to my mind, but this
doesn't square
with the whole purpose of a thread.


Taper threads taper and parallel threads remain parallel! Taper threads,
when used with suitable sealers (usually ptfe these days) allow sealing to
take place over a range of angles between one part of the fitting and
another (ie you can move the joint while it remains sealed). They also don't
require a mating face at all and are ideally suited to iron fittings
(usually cast) that then don't have to be machined. The most likely place to
find them today is the stubs for radiator valve fittings, which exit the
radiator with no mating face, having a tapered thread and fitting into a
(sometimes recessed) thread in the radiator. IMHO the most effective way to
seal them is to wrap about 4 layers of ptfe tape on the thread and assemble,
tightening a little. This will drive ptfe into the threads. I then
disassemble, add another few layers and do up properly.

Parallel threaded fittings require two mating faces and a washer. Once
tightness is achieved you are usually stuck with whatever angle it ends up
at. They can be considered neater, however.

I had some problems withe the tails on my original shower pump, which seemed
to require tapered fittngs and I was at a loss to undertand this. I believe
the replacement pump was different (AFAICR).


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Bookworm wrote:

Failing that, make a washer out of Hemp & use Boss White. I have been a
C & G Plumber for 50 years and aint seen a hemp/ Boss White fail yet
through the Hemp/Boss White.

Hemp is not prohibited for use on water fittings by the Water
Regulations.

Aidan wrote:
rubbish

Should be
Hemp is prohibited for use on water fittings by the Water
Regulations.

Aidan wrote:
Hemp is prohibited for use on water fittings by the Water Regulations.

So is Boss White, which is only suitable for use on non-potable water
systems (heating). For water fittings, including showers, you should
use Boss Super Green, Fernox Water Hawk or similar.

Hi,

A few years ago, I posted a similar question about threads. Using Francis or
fjk might pull up those threads. I came across some fascinating sites, one
with a chart for mixing or not mixing the two types. If I find it again, I
will post it.


Francis

"Mungo" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and a
"parallel thread"?

The word "taper" implies a gradual reduction to my mind, but this
doesn't square
with the whole purpose of a thread.

Reason behind this is my researching an alternative set of tails for a
bar mixer for
a power shower.
I've bought a 3 bar pump and the book tells me to run the output in
22mm as far
as practical.
We picked up all the fittings for our new en-suite in the sales in
January, and it's only
now that I've got round to taking a closer look at the plumbing.
My plan is to run a pair of 22mm copper pipes down a stud wall cavity
and then turn
these out ninety degrees into the shower bay and connect to the mixer
bar.
The mixer bar comes with a pair of dog-leg fittings - three quarters
bsp male on one
end, half inch bsp male on the other.
When you look inside the dog-leg the aperture is (roughly) ten
millimetres. From a 22mm
pipe down to 10mm feels wasteful, hence this quest to find a better
fitting.

On my desk is a 22mm female to three-quarters male straight BSP
fitting courtesy of Screwfix.
The BSP thread isn't deep enough to attach the mixer bar (the mixer bar
nut grounds out
before it tightens: no use).
Ecstasy would be an elbow joint taking 22mm copper pipe on one end and
having (say) a
two inch long 3/4" BSP male thread (so I could cut it down if
necessary) on the other
end. I could even find a nut for the 3/4" thread and attach the fitting
to some marine
plywood as part of the install (someone here posted a URL of some
pictures on how
they did this: can't seem to find it - would the owner reply please
with the url?)
I suppose a 22mm female elbow connecting to a 3/4" bsp female could be
of use,
especially with some "barrel nipples" (found via another thread here on
uk.d-i-y; all
the jokes on this phrase also covered too).

Any help appreciated; thanks in advance

Mungo

Francis wrote:

A few years ago, I posted a similar question about threads. Using Francis or
fjk might pull up those threads. I came across some fascinating sites, one
with a chart for mixing or not mixing the two types. If I find it again, I
will post it.

Nothing showed when I did an Advanced search on google groups using:
thread (Francis OR fjk) group:uk.d-i-y

No great rush Francis: I'll keep looking.

Mungo

P.S. Thanks to all repliers.

Hi Paul,
Ta for the reply.

wrote:

Don't sweat it. I have 22mm isolators that my pump drags water through,
then pumps out via a right angled 15mm chromed isolator in the shower
pipework.

It has great pressure still, and it's not even set to max

Cheers

Paul.

What size pump Paul (are we comparing like with like)?

Mungo

On 15 Mar 2006 23:50:38 -0800, "Mungo" wrote:

Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and a
"parallel thread"?

The word "taper" implies a gradual reduction to my mind, but this
doesn't square
with the whole purpose of a thread.

Reason behind this is my researching an alternative set of tails for a
bar mixer for
a power shower.
I've bought a 3 bar pump and the book tells me to run the output in
22mm as far
as practical.
We picked up all the fittings for our new en-suite in the sales in
January, and it's only
now that I've got round to taking a closer look at the plumbing.
My plan is to run a pair of 22mm copper pipes down a stud wall cavity
and then turn
these out ninety degrees into the shower bay and connect to the mixer
bar.
The mixer bar comes with a pair of dog-leg fittings - three quarters
bsp male on one
end, half inch bsp male on the other.
When you look inside the dog-leg the aperture is (roughly) ten
millimetres. From a 22mm
pipe down to 10mm feels wasteful, hence this quest to find a better
fitting.

On my desk is a 22mm female to three-quarters male straight BSP
fitting courtesy of Screwfix.
The BSP thread isn't deep enough to attach the mixer bar (the mixer bar
nut grounds out
before it tightens: no use).
Ecstasy would be an elbow joint taking 22mm copper pipe on one end and
having (say) a
two inch long 3/4" BSP male thread (so I could cut it down if
necessary) on the other
end. I could even find a nut for the 3/4" thread and attach the fitting
to some marine
plywood as part of the install (someone here posted a URL of some
pictures on how
they did this: can't seem to find it - would the owner reply please
with the url?)
I suppose a 22mm female elbow connecting to a 3/4" bsp female could be
of use,
especially with some "barrel nipples" (found via another thread here on
uk.d-i-y; all
the jokes on this phrase also covered too).

Any help appreciated; thanks in advance

Mungo

Have you had a look at what BES do?:

http://www.bes.co.uk/nav_graf/frames_cat.htm

cheers,
Pete.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 15 Mar 2006 23:50:38 -0800, "Mungo" wrote:

Hi Folks,
Okay, showing one aspect of my vast collection of ignorance he
beyond "spelling", what's the difference between a "taper thread" and a
"parallel thread"?

The word "taper" implies a gradual reduction to my mind, but this
doesn't square
with the whole purpose of a thread.

Taper fittings are often used for fittings involving gases and either
PTFE tape or a sealant are used with them.

An alternative sometimes used with compressed air for example, are
parallel thread fittings with a flange at the top where two flat
surfaces meet and an O-ring to seal.

Some people do try to use taper male threaded fittings in parallel
female fittings again with PTFE tape, but it is not best practice for
some applications.

For water, parallel threaded fittings are used.

What ********. Taper threads are as described. The thread tapers away from
deep pitch to narrow pitch. They are for permanent joints which will not
swivel. The taper locks the pipe into the fitting although maybe not making
a permanent seal of the fluid or gas. Iron pipe has taper threads. The
taper is usually on the male thread. The male is usually parallel, although
not always. Overtightening taper threads can burst a fitting.

Parallel, are usually where the joint is demountable, or undoable. A union
will have a parallel thread, as would the threads on a compression nut on a
compression fitting, which is there only to pull the nut and body together
and not make a seal. If there is a union and washer the thread will be
parallel, with the washer making the seal, not the threads. NEVER, tighten
up parallel male and female thread unless a washer or O ring makes the seal.
PTFE and the likes is not sufficient.

wrote in message
ups.com...


I've just piped my garage for compressed air, so have recently become
very acquainted with taper threads and iron fittings


I only wish i'd found gas tape before using standard ptfe on the
joints. Take a hell of a lot of standard ptfe to seal at 8 bar, (100
psi or so in old money) so you soon know when your joint is dodgy

i've got my garage piped for air, but i went the simple route, that pe-x
type semi rigid pipe and push fit fittings, not the expensive stuff sold by
some tool companies, just bog standard pe-x hose as used for diesel lines on
my van,

used 12mm pipe, got a few T pieces, 90 degree angles, few elbows with wall
ancors for the air line connectors to the tools and so on,

took about half an hour to pipe up, and i've modified the lay out a couple
of times, takes minutes, no leaks what so ever first time (as long as the
pipe is cut square at the ends it'll not leak) and i run my compressor at
150 psi, been in place for 3 years now, and it'll hold air for days, the
place i rekon it leaks is the connector between the compressor and the
pipework which is a standard pcl air-line fitting to a rubber hose, with a
12mm push fit connector on the other end, those pcl connectors never give a
100% air tight joint, but loosing 30 psi over 3 days or so isn't too bad i
rekon,

and total cost for the pipes and fittings was around 40 quid.

On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


The taper locks the pipe into the fitting although maybe not making
a permanent seal of the fluid or gas.

Gases are fluids, numbnuts.....

Iron pipe has taper threads. The
taper is usually on the male thread. The male is usually parallel, although
not always. Overtightening taper threads can burst a fitting.


So which is it? Taper on the male thread, or parallel?

Make up your mind....


You need to read your Conex catalogue more carefully. Ask the rep.
for a new one.


--

..andy

On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

What ********. Taper threads are as described.

The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch.

What ********, there is no such thing as "deep pitch" and "narrow
pitch"


Machinery's Handbook 26th Edition

Taper Thread: A taper thread is a screw thread projecting from a
conical surface.

Pitch: The pitch of a thread having uniform spacing is the distance
measured parallel with its axis between corresponding points on
adjacent thread forms in the same axial plane and on the same side of
the axis. Pitch is equal to the lead divided by the number of thread
starts.

Pitch Cone: The pitch cone is an imaginary cone of such apex angle and
location of its vertex and axis that its surface would pass through a
taper thread in such a manner as to make the widths of the thread
ridge and the thread groove equal. It is, therefore, located
equidistantly between the sharp major and minor cones of a given
thread form. On a theoretically perfect taper thread, these widths are
equal to one-half the basic pitch. (See also Axis of Thread and Pitch
Diameter.)


--

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


The taper locks the pipe into the fitting although maybe not making
a permanent seal of the fluid or gas.

Gases are fluids, numbnuts.....

Iron pipe has taper threads. The
taper is usually on the male thread. The male is usually parallel,
although
not always. Overtightening taper threads can burst a fitting.

So which is it? Taper on the male thread, or parallel?

Make up your mind....


You need to read your Conex catalogue more carefully. Ask the rep.
for a new one.

Matt, do not give advise on topics you know little.

"Matt" aka Lord Hall wrote in message
news
On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

What ********. Taper threads are as described.

The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch.

What ********, there is no such thing as "deep pitch" and "narrow
pitch"

Machinery's Handbook 26th Edition

Taper Thread: A taper thread is a screw thread projecting from a
conical surface.

Pitch: The pitch of a thread having uniform spacing is the distance
measured parallel with its axis between corresponding points on
adjacent thread forms in the same axial plane and on the same side of
the axis. Pitch is equal to the lead divided by the number of thread
starts.

Pitch Cone: The pitch cone is an imaginary cone of such apex angle and
location of its vertex and axis that its surface would pass through a
taper thread in such a manner as to make the widths of the thread
ridge and the thread groove equal. It is, therefore, located
equidistantly between the sharp major and minor cones of a given
thread form. On a theoretically perfect taper thread, these widths are
equal to one-half the basic pitch. (See also Axis of Thread and Pitch
Diameter.)

Lord Hall, and?

CampinGazz wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...


I've just piped my garage for compressed air, so have recently become
very acquainted with taper threads and iron fittings

i've got my garage piped for air, but i went the simple route, that pe-x
type semi rigid pipe and push fit fittings, not the expensive stuff sold by
some tool companies, just bog standard pe-x hose as used for diesel lines on
my van,

used 12mm pipe, got a few T pieces, 90 degree angles, few elbows with wall
ancors for the air line connectors to the tools and so on,

took about half an hour to pipe up, and i've modified the lay out a couple
of times, takes minutes, no leaks what so ever first time (as long as the
pipe is cut square at the ends it'll not leak) and i run my compressor at
150 psi, been in place for 3 years now, and it'll hold air for days, the
place i rekon it leaks is the connector between the compressor and the
pipework which is a standard pcl air-line fitting to a rubber hose, with a
12mm push fit connector on the other end, those pcl connectors never give a
100% air tight joint, but loosing 30 psi over 3 days or so isn't too bad i
rekon,

and total cost for the pipes and fittings was around 40 quid.

Nice, I looked at this route, but it all looked a bit complicated and
expensive from the various compressed air firms. They too have gone
over to 'specialised' pushfit for compressed air.

I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron
fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread
cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.

Cheers,

Paul.

wrote in message
oups.com...

CampinGazz wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...


I've just piped my garage for compressed air, so have recently become
very acquainted with taper threads and iron fittings

i've got my garage piped for air, but i went the simple route, that pe-x
type semi rigid pipe and push fit fittings, not the expensive stuff sold
by
some tool companies, just bog standard pe-x hose as used for diesel lines
on
my van,

used 12mm pipe, got a few T pieces, 90 degree angles, few elbows with
wall
ancors for the air line connectors to the tools and so on,

took about half an hour to pipe up, and i've modified the lay out a
couple
of times, takes minutes, no leaks what so ever first time (as long as the
pipe is cut square at the ends it'll not leak) and i run my compressor at
150 psi, been in place for 3 years now, and it'll hold air for days, the
place i rekon it leaks is the connector between the compressor and the
pipework which is a standard pcl air-line fitting to a rubber hose, with
a
12mm push fit connector on the other end, those pcl connectors never give
a
100% air tight joint, but loosing 30 psi over 3 days or so isn't too bad
i
rekon,

and total cost for the pipes and fittings was around 40 quid.

Nice, I looked at this route, but it all looked a bit complicated and
expensive from the various compressed air firms. They too have gone
over to 'specialised' pushfit for compressed air.

I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron
fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread
cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.

DON'T mess about with compressed air doing improvisations. It can easily
kill. It only take a few bar to propel metal about the place. Use the
proper fittings or don't bother at all.

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:37:32 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


wrote in message
roups.com...

CampinGazz wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...


I've just piped my garage for compressed air, so have recently become
very acquainted with taper threads and iron fittings

i've got my garage piped for air, but i went the simple route, that pe-x
type semi rigid pipe and push fit fittings, not the expensive stuff sold
by
some tool companies, just bog standard pe-x hose as used for diesel lines
on
my van,

used 12mm pipe, got a few T pieces, 90 degree angles, few elbows with
wall
ancors for the air line connectors to the tools and so on,

took about half an hour to pipe up, and i've modified the lay out a
couple
of times, takes minutes, no leaks what so ever first time (as long as the
pipe is cut square at the ends it'll not leak) and i run my compressor at
150 psi, been in place for 3 years now, and it'll hold air for days, the
place i rekon it leaks is the connector between the compressor and the
pipework which is a standard pcl air-line fitting to a rubber hose, with
a
12mm push fit connector on the other end, those pcl connectors never give
a
100% air tight joint, but loosing 30 psi over 3 days or so isn't too bad
i
rekon,

and total cost for the pipes and fittings was around 40 quid.

Nice, I looked at this route, but it all looked a bit complicated and
expensive from the various compressed air firms. They too have gone
over to 'specialised' pushfit for compressed air.

I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron
fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread
cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.

DON'T mess about with compressed air doing improvisations. It can easily
kill. It only take a few bar to propel metal about the place. Use the
proper fittings or don't bother at all.

He did use one of the correct approaches. Steel tubing, iron
fittings are the traditional way.

I used another of the correct approaches which is Speedfit blue tube
and the black push fit fittings that go with it. It has the
advantage of being easy to change and to add additional components
when required.

However, I would agree with you that use of unsuitable materials is a
really bad idea with compressed air.


--

..andy

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 00:53:05 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


The taper locks the pipe into the fitting although maybe not making
a permanent seal of the fluid or gas.

Gases are fluids, numbnuts.....

Iron pipe has taper threads. The
taper is usually on the male thread. The male is usually parallel,
although
not always. Overtightening taper threads can burst a fitting.

So which is it? Taper on the male thread, or parallel?

Make up your mind....


You need to read your Conex catalogue more carefully. Ask the rep.
for a new one.

Matt, do not give advise on topics you know little.


I leave that to you.


--

..andy

Andy Hall wrote:
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:37:32 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:
[snip]

However, I would agree with you
[snip]

Boggle! I didn't think I would ever see the combination of:
- that phrase
- written by Andy Hall
- in reply to a posting by Doctor Drivel

On 17 Mar 2006 05:59:41 -0800, "Martin Bonner"
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:37:32 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:
[snip]

However, I would agree with you
[snip]

Boggle! I didn't think I would ever see the combination of:
- that phrase
- written by Andy Hall
- in reply to a posting by Doctor Drivel


He does very occasionally get things right and in proportion to the
discussion, so it's important to reward him when this happens even
though it's quite by accident - helps with his therapy.


--

..andy


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Andy Hall wrote:
"Doctor Drivel"
zymurgy wrote
CampinGazz wrote:
zymurgy wrote

I've just piped my garage for compressed air, so have recently become
very acquainted with taper threads and iron fittings

i've got my garage piped for air, but i went the simple route, that pe-x
type semi rigid pipe and push fit fittings,.

Nice, I looked at this route, but it all looked a bit complicated and
expensive

I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron
fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread
cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.

DON'T mess about with compressed air doing improvisations. It can easily
kill. It only take a few bar to propel metal about the place. Use the
proper fittings or don't bother at all.

Heh, I feel honoured, i've been 'Drivelled'

He did use one of the correct approaches. Steel tubing, iron
fittings are the traditional way.

Yep, no improvisation here

I used another of the correct approaches which is Speedfit blue tube
and the black push fit fittings that go with it. It has the
advantage of being easy to change and to add additional components
when required.

However, I would agree with you that use of unsuitable materials is a
really bad idea with compressed air.

Oh, I dunno, that 22/25mm Blue Pex water pipe looks pretty sturdy ;-)

Cheers

Paul.

On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch.

No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's
the base diameter that tapers.

Mungo wrote:
Hi Paul,
zymurgy wrote:
Ta for the reply.

np


Don't sweat it. I have 22mm isolators that my pump drags water through,
then pumps out via a right angled 15mm chromed isolator in the shower
pipework.

It has great pressure still, and it's not even set to max

What size pump Paul (are we comparing like with like)?

I'd have to go into the loft to check the box for the exact pressure,
but I know it's a showerforce one.

Cheers

Paul.

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 17:32:17 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

|On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
|wrote:
|
| The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch.
|
|No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's
|the base diameter that tapers.

When I learned to cut tapered threads mumble years ago, the thread
profile was constant and both the base diameter, and the thread top
diameters tapered.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk
Freedom of Speech, Expression, Religion, and Democracy are
the keys to Civilization, together with legal acceptance of
Fundamental Human rights.

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 00:53:05 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


The taper locks the pipe into the fitting although maybe not making
a permanent seal of the fluid or gas.

Gases are fluids, numbnuts.....

Iron pipe has taper threads. The
taper is usually on the male thread. The male is usually parallel,
although
not always. Overtightening taper threads can burst a fitting.

So which is it? Taper on the male thread, or parallel?

Make up your mind....


You need to read your Conex catalogue more carefully. Ask the rep.
for a new one.

Matt, do not give advise on topics you know little.

I leave that to you.

Matt, just do not give advise on topics you know little.

"Dave Fawthrop" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 17:32:17 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

|On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
|wrote:
|
| The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch.
|
|No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's
|the base diameter that tapers.

When I learned to cut tapered threads mumble years ago, the thread
profile was constant and both the base diameter, and the thread top
diameters tapered.

Look at the dies and cut one and it is obvious.

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On 17 Mar 2006 05:59:41 -0800, "Martin Bonner"
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:37:32 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:
[snip]

However, I would agree with you
[snip]

Boggle! I didn't think I would ever see the combination of:
- that phrase
- written by Andy Hall
- in reply to a posting by Doctor Drivel

He

Matt, and another thing. DON'T use pushfits. If the grab ring goes you will
know about it.

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 22:25:12 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
.. .
On 17 Mar 2006 05:59:41 -0800, "Martin Bonner"
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:37:32 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:
[snip]

However, I would agree with you
[snip]

Boggle! I didn't think I would ever see the combination of:
- that phrase
- written by Andy Hall
- in reply to a posting by Doctor Drivel

He

Matt, and another thing. DON'T use pushfits. If the grab ring goes you will
know about it.


I always use the correct tools, so don't run into the problems that
you do.


--

..andy

Doctor Drivel wrote:
zymurgy wrote
CampinGazz wrote:
zymurgy wrote

I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron
fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread
cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.

DON'T mess about with compressed air doing improvisations. It can easily
kill. It only take a few bar to propel metal about the place. Use the
proper fittings or don't bother at all.

LOL. I did use the correct fittings and the correct method of assembly.

BTW, I ride a 180MPH motorbike, I think a bit of compressed air is the
least of my worries :-)

HTH

Paul.

wrote in message
oups.com...

BTW, I own a 180MPH motorbike, I think a bit of compressed air is the
least of my worries :-)

Post edited for accuracy...

;-)

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 22:25:12 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
. ..
On 17 Mar 2006 05:59:41 -0800, "Martin Bonner"
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:37:32 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:
[snip]

However, I would agree with you
[snip]

Boggle! I didn't think I would ever see the combination of:
- that phrase
- written by Andy Hall
- in reply to a posting by Doctor Drivel

He

Matt, and another thing. DON'T use pushfits. If the grab ring goes you
will
know about it.

I always use the correct tools, so don't run into the problems that
you do.

Matt, I know you an total amateur, and slow as well, but fittings and tools
are two very different things. Hint: you will not find fittings in Makita
manuals.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Doctor Drivel wrote:
zymurgy wrote
CampinGazz wrote:
zymurgy wrote

I took the low tech route and went with galvanised steel tubes, iron
fittings and munson rings to the wall. I already had a BSP thread
cutter and tube clamp I picked up at a local car boot.

DON'T mess about with compressed air doing improvisations. It can easily
kill. It only take a few bar to propel metal about the place. Use the
proper fittings or don't bother at all.

LOL. I did use the correct fittings and the correct method of assembly.

BTW, I ride a 180MPH motorbike, I think a bit of compressed air is the
least of my worries :-)

Kill yourself by all mean, but don't take others with you.

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 22:22:54 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Dave Fawthrop" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 17:32:17 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

|On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:59:48 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
|wrote:
|
| The thread tapers away from deep pitch to narrow pitch.
|
|No they don't. The pitch is constant and so is the thread depth. It's
|the base diameter that tapers.

When I learned to cut tapered threads mumble years ago, the thread
profile was constant and both the base diameter, and the thread top
diameters tapered.

Look at the dies and cut one and it is obvious.

Dribble, you are really dim and completely out of your depth. Many
days ago I posted a quote from a well respected engineering reference
handbook that many in the engineering profession would consider a
reasonably definitive definition of "pitch" together with its
application to a taper thread.

(see Message-ID: )

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS DEEP PITCH OR NARROW PITCH


--