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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Plastering advice
Hi,
I've removed the skirting board and a radiator in my lounge. Behind the skirting is just bare brick and behind the radiator was plaster but the whole lot fell off so there is now bare brick here too. The walls are to be skimmed in a few weeks time but I'd like to cover the brickwork up now. The depth to bring in line with the existing plaster is about 10-15mm. Would it be OK to fasten plasterboard to the brickwork? The reason I'd like to do this is that when the new skirting board is fitted it should have a nice, flat surface to attach to so would be easier to install and would be a better finish. I'm concerned though that when it is skimmed the plaster will react differently to the original plaster and the plasterboard and that this may cause cracking. Also, has anyone any ideas on the reason for the plaster blowing behing the radiator? I'd expect it's just because of the age and the heat it's had from the radiator but if anyone knows of anything else which may have caused it I'd be eager to know. Thanks, Matt |
#2
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Plastering advice
Buy a bag of bonding plaster about 6GBP and have a go yourself. Leave it
down about 3mm for the skim and run it down below the top of the skirting. It's really not that difficult as the plaster wants to stick to the wall and smooth itself out without too much input from you. The plaster has come away because of the weak bond it has to the substrate and also some very minor movement in the walls, nothing to be alarmed at. The purchase of a float would perhaps be worthwhile as if this plaster has blown then there is probably plenty more of the same in your house. Good luck if you try it ,theres not that much to lose. "Lunny" wrote in message ps.com... Hi, I've removed the skirting board and a radiator in my lounge. Behind the skirting is just bare brick and behind the radiator was plaster but the whole lot fell off so there is now bare brick here too. The walls are to be skimmed in a few weeks time but I'd like to cover the brickwork up now. The depth to bring in line with the existing plaster is about 10-15mm. Would it be OK to fasten plasterboard to the brickwork? The reason I'd like to do this is that when the new skirting board is fitted it should have a nice, flat surface to attach to so would be easier to install and would be a better finish. I'm concerned though that when it is skimmed the plaster will react differently to the original plaster and the plasterboard and that this may cause cracking. Also, has anyone any ideas on the reason for the plaster blowing behing the radiator? I'd expect it's just because of the age and the heat it's had from the radiator but if anyone knows of anything else which may have caused it I'd be eager to know. Thanks, Matt |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Plastering advice
Dr Wu wrote:
Buy a bag of bonding plaster about 6GBP and have a go yourself. Leave it down about 3mm for the skim and run it down below the top of the skirting. It's really not that difficult as the plaster wants to stick to the wall and smooth itself out without too much input from you. The plaster has come away because of the weak bond it has to the substrate and also some very minor movement in the walls, nothing to be alarmed at. The purchase of a float would perhaps be worthwhile as if this plaster has blown then there is probably plenty more of the same in your house. Good luck if you try it ,theres not that much to lose. "Lunny" wrote in message ps.com... £6.00, thats dear where are you? £3.75 in my builders yard. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
#4
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Plastering advice
In message om, Lunny
writes Hi, I've removed the skirting board and a radiator in my lounge. Behind the skirting is just bare brick and behind the radiator was plaster but the whole lot fell off so there is now bare brick here too. The walls are to be skimmed in a few weeks time but I'd like to cover the brickwork up now. The depth to bring in line with the existing plaster is about 10-15mm. Would it be OK to fasten plasterboard to the brickwork? The reason I'd like to do this is that when the new skirting board is fitted it should have a nice, flat surface to attach to so would be easier to install and would be a better finish. I'm concerned though that when it is skimmed the plaster will react differently to the original plaster and the plasterboard and that this may cause cracking. It's quite likely there will be some cracking at the joins between the plasterboard and the plaster due to differential movement over time. not sure about the bit about putting plasterboard along the bottom, if the walls aren't flat already then the plasterboard will have to follow the finished surface anyway. Personally I'd leave it to the plasterer to do. Probably not take very long or cost much/any more -- Chris French |
#5
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Plastering advice
On 25 Jan 2006 05:04:29 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:
Hi, I've removed the skirting board and a radiator in my lounge. Behind the skirting is just bare brick and behind the radiator was plaster but the whole lot fell off so there is now bare brick here too. The walls are to be skimmed in a few weeks time but I'd like to cover the brickwork up now. The depth to bring in line with the existing plaster is about 10-15mm. Would it be OK to fasten plasterboard to the brickwork? The reason I'd like to do this is that when the new skirting board is fitted it should have a nice, flat surface to attach to so would be easier to install and would be a better finish. I'm concerned though that when it is skimmed the plaster will react differently to the original plaster and the plasterboard and that this may cause cracking. Also, has anyone any ideas on the reason for the plaster blowing behing the radiator? I'd expect it's just because of the age and the heat it's had from the radiator but if anyone knows of anything else which may have caused it I'd be eager to know. Thanks, Matt If the plaster is not attached in other places maybe its not worth skimming over. Does it sound hollow when you rap your knuckles on it? If its just this one area, phone the plasterer and explain. If you did a bad job of patching it yourself he'd charge you extra for repairing your repair. |
#6
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Plastering advice
Cheers for the help. Just got a few questions about your replies.... Dr Wu ---------- "Leave it down about 3mm for the skim and run it down below the top of the skirting." Wouldn't I level it up with the existing plaster? The whole lot is to be skimmed over. Chis French ----------------- "not sure about the bit about putting plasterboard along the bottom, if the walls aren't flat already then the plasterboard will have to follow the finished surface anyway." Was thinking that the plasterboard would give a more "forgiving" surface because of it's rigidity or would the skim be able to sort that out? "Personally I'd leave it to the plasterer to do. Probably not take very long or cost much/any more" I'd love to but he's weeks away from being able to come round and would like to cover the exposed brickwork ASAP. Unfortunately the skirting has had to be removed to level the floor. Marbles ------------ "I the plaster is not attached in other places maybe its not worth skimming over. Does it sound hollow when you rap your knuckles on it?" No all the loose plaster in the area has been removed. The rest of the wall is sound. There are other areas in the room which are loose but the plasterer will sort this out. You say it may not be worth skimming - is the other option to remove all of the plaster and start again? "If its just this one area, phone the plasterer and explain. If you did a bad job of patching it yourself he'd charge you extra for repairing your repair." It would be easier to get in touch with Elvis! I know the contributors on here are very helpful and knowledgable so thought I'd check on the best way to do it on here before starting. Cheers again, Lunny .. |
#7
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Plastering advice
marble wrote:
On 25 Jan 2006 05:04:29 -0800, "Lunny" wrote: Hi, I've removed the skirting board and a radiator in my lounge. Behind the skirting is just bare brick and behind the radiator was plaster but the whole lot fell off so there is now bare brick here too. The walls are to be skimmed in a few weeks time but I'd like to cover the brickwork up now. The depth to bring in line with the existing plaster is about 10-15mm. Would it be OK to fasten plasterboard to the brickwork? The reason I'd like to do this is that when the new skirting board is fitted it should have a nice, flat surface to attach to so would be easier to install and would be a better finish. I'm concerned though that when it is skimmed the plaster will react differently to the original plaster and the plasterboard and that this may cause cracking. Also, has anyone any ideas on the reason for the plaster blowing behing the radiator? I'd expect it's just because of the age and the heat it's had from the radiator but if anyone knows of anything else which may have caused it I'd be eager to know. Thanks, Matt If the plaster is not attached in other places maybe its not worth skimming over. Does it sound hollow when you rap your knuckles on it? If its just this one area, phone the plasterer and explain. If you did a bad job of patching it yourself he'd charge you extra for repairing your repair. There is supposed to be a gap between the floor and the plaster to stop rising damp. There are bare stones behind my skirting boards. Not sure if this still holds true with newer houses that have damp proof courses built in. My house was built around 1900. When I had a couple of rooms replastered, the plasterer left a reasonable gap between the floor and the plaster all the way round. |
#8
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Plastering advice
In message .com,
Lunny writes Cheers for the help. Just got a few questions about your replies.... Personally I think it's better to reply to the original messages, not to put them all in one message. "Leave it down about 3mm for the skim and run it down below the top of the skirting." Wouldn't I level it up with the existing plaster? The whole lot is to be skimmed over. Yes, I think they were thinking you were just talking about skimming the patched bits. "not sure about the bit about putting plasterboard along the bottom, if the walls aren't flat already then the plasterboard will have to follow the finished surface anyway." Was thinking that the plasterboard would give a more "forgiving" surface because of it's rigidity or would the skim be able to sort that out? TBH, I'm not sure what you mean here. "Personally I'd leave it to the plasterer to do. Probably not take very long or cost much/any more" I'd love to but he's weeks away from being able to come round and would like to cover the exposed brickwork ASAP. shrug Presumably the room is in a bit of a state anyway, can't see the problem with bit of exposed brickwork myself. "If its just this one area, phone the plasterer and explain. If you did a bad job of patching it yourself he'd charge you extra for repairing your repair." It would be easier to get in touch with Elvis! Hmm, I'd be very wary of tradesperson you have difficulty getting hold of.... -- Chris French |
#9
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Plasterboard adhesive from B&Q or Wickes is less than £4
I've just done some similar work. Stick bits of plasterboard onto the brickwork, then fill in any gaps. Bring this new plaster up to the SAME LEVEL AS EXISTING (since its best to skim the whole wall anyway). I've used britich gypsum Multi-finish from B+Q £3.75 to fill bits in. its very strong when set, mixes well, cheap, easy to apply. Only thing with this is that it does shirnk a bit when drying, so if you put it on thick it can crack. BUT this will not effect its strength as it does bond well to plasterboard/brick. (if this concerns you, then use 'browning' plaster) Buy some PVA glue (general purpose pva will suffice) and water this down a bit and apply to the wall before you start. This will seal in any brick dust and help the plasterboard adhesive (or multifinsh) to set. The existing plaster on my walls was very absorbsive, so use plenty of water or the plaster will dry too quick and crack. When the final skim coat of plaster is put on it will dry out different depending on its background. |
#10
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Plastering advice
chris French wrote: In message .com, Lunny writes Cheers for the help. Just got a few questions about your replies.... Personally I think it's better to reply to the original messages, not to put them all in one message. Oh. Sorry! "Leave it down about 3mm for the skim and run it down below the top of the skirting." Wouldn't I level it up with the existing plaster? The whole lot is to be skimmed over. Yes, I think they were thinking you were just talking about skimming the patched bits. "not sure about the bit about putting plasterboard along the bottom, if the walls aren't flat already then the plasterboard will have to follow the finished surface anyway." Was thinking that the plasterboard would give a more "forgiving" surface because of it's rigidity or would the skim be able to sort that out? TBH, I'm not sure what you mean here. "Personally I'd leave it to the plasterer to do. Probably not take very long or cost much/any more" I'd love to but he's weeks away from being able to come round and would like to cover the exposed brickwork ASAP. shrug Presumably the room is in a bit of a state anyway, can't see the problem with bit of exposed brickwork myself. Me neither, SWMBO won't have any of it though! So the question is "how do you do this?" and not "would you bother or not?" "If its just this one area, phone the plasterer and explain. If you did a bad job of patching it yourself he'd charge you extra for repairing your repair." It would be easier to get in touch with Elvis! Hmm, I'd be very wary of tradesperson you have difficulty getting hold of.... Thanks. -- Chris French |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Plastering advice
There is supposed to be a gap between the floor and the plaster to stop rising damp. There are bare stones behind my skirting boards. Not sure if this still holds true with newer houses that have damp proof courses built in. My house was built around 1900. When I had a couple of rooms replastered, the plasterer left a reasonable gap between the floor and the plaster all the way round. Yeah, It's had a damp proof course but I'll be leaving a bit of a gap anyway So can anyone please tell me the best way to do this? One coat plaster? Bonding plaster? Dot and Dab? Cheers all! Lunny |
#12
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Plastering advice
Lunny wrote: There is supposed to be a gap between the floor and the plaster to stop rising damp. There are bare stones behind my skirting boards. Not sure if this still holds true with newer houses that have damp proof courses built in. My house was built around 1900. When I had a couple of rooms replastered, the plasterer left a reasonable gap between the floor and the plaster all the way round. Yeah, It's had a damp proof course but I'll be leaving a bit of a gap anyway So can anyone please tell me the best way to do this? One coat plaster? Bonding plaster? Dot and Dab? Cheers all! Lunny Use one coat plaster and it'll be fine. One coat is very flexible, doesn't shrink like bonding and it sticks really well. |
#13
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Plastering advice
On 26 Jan 2006 07:08:19 -0800, "Lunny" wrote:
There is supposed to be a gap between the floor and the plaster to stop rising damp. There are bare stones behind my skirting boards. Not sure if this still holds true with newer houses that have damp proof courses built in. My house was built around 1900. When I had a couple of rooms replastered, the plasterer left a reasonable gap between the floor and the plaster all the way round. Yeah, It's had a damp proof course but I'll be leaving a bit of a gap anyway So can anyone please tell me the best way to do this? One coat plaster? Bonding plaster? Dot and Dab? Cheers all! Lunny Dont dot and dab, because you want a solid wall to re attaching the radiator if its a heavy one. Maybe you could put a big dollop of adhesive behind where the brackets will go if you can be sure of that. Bonding coat is good for repairs because it, err bonds, but it will not give you a smooth finish if thats important while you await the plasterer. Even if you decide to use One Coat, I'd still use 2 coats if its 15mm deep scoring a key on the 1st coat. Use a straight edge, a piece of straight timber long enough to span the patch, then using the existing plaster as a guide pull the straight ege over the patch to make it all level with the old stuff. |
#14
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Plastering advice
I reckon I'll go with the one coat. Cheers to everyone for the advice!
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#15
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Plastering advice
Let us all know how it turns out
"Lunny" wrote in message oups.com... I reckon I'll go with the one coat. Cheers to everyone for the advice! |
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