On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 13:47:47 -0700, "Stephen Judge"
wrote:

Does anyone have any ideas of what else I can try ?

For your "Carborundum", try "silicon carbide". The black stuff
commonly sold as wet and dry. It's harder than aluminium oxide and
more appropriate to stonework.

One of your biggest problems will be dust. Unlike wood, stone dust
doesn't compress and so the paper will tend to clog. Keep a vacuum
running as a dust extractor, just to keep the abrasive cutting.
Working it sopping wet will help too.

http://www.csmabrasives.co.uk/

Ignore the impossible web site, get a paper catalogue. They sell
everything you could ever want.


For a quick fix from the local DIY shed, try the bright orange
Plasplugs tile-fitting tools and get a "tile file" - a grit-covered
latticework. This is a carbide abrasive on an openwork substrate and
good for working dusty stone.

What colour is the slate ? The Chinese stuff is quite soft (but
variable - red / brown is softer), fresh Welsh grey / purple is hard,
and green Lakeland slate is very tough going.

I have used the reverse side of some slate tiles for a window-sill, thinking
I could easily remove the marks left by the commercial slate cutter (very
shallow, less than 0.2mm at worst, circular scratches, can't even feel most
of them with my finger nail). Being slate, a soft stone, I thought I would
have no problem.

Oh boy - I've tried using polishing agents like Brasso (left a horrible
mess), sandpaper, wet and dry, high and low speed sanding attachments, an
aluminium oxide sanding disk and lastly an angle-grinder mounted high speed
flap wheel. All to virtually no avail.

Has the cutting process hardened the surface of the tiles in some way ? Does
anyone have any ideas of what else I can try ? I've heard of something
called carborundum paper but never seen any (and B&Q have never heard of
it) - anyone know anything about this ?

Cheers

Stephen