I have looked at these 10 to 15 litre electric under sink storage water
heaters. Screwfix sell them. They all seem to be around the 1 KW
capacity. Does anyone know where a 3 killowatt version is avaialble?

TIA

I have looked at these 10 to 15 litre electric under sink storage water
heaters. Screwfix sell them. They all seem to be around the 1 KW
capacity. Does anyone know where a 3 killowatt version is avaialble?

Ariston do one call the Europrisma EP10UR. This is available in 3kW and 10
(or optionally 15) litres unvented.

http://www.discountedheating.co.uk/s...r_Heaters.html

When shopping for unvented single point water heaters be careful when
choosing that you don't end up with the type that requires special dripping
taps.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
I have looked at these 10 to 15 litre electric under sink storage water
heaters. Screwfix sell them. They all seem to be around the 1 KW
capacity. Does anyone know where a 3 killowatt version is avaialble?

Ariston do one call the Europrisma EP10UR. This is available in 3kW and 10
(or optionally 15) litres unvented.

http://www.discountedheating.co.uk/s...r_Heaters.html

When shopping for unvented single point water heaters be careful when
choosing that you don't end up with the type that requires special dripping
taps.

Christian.

Thanks. I just spotted that page myself. Thanks for the tip. This model
doesn't need a special tap, I hope. Will this model will work at low
pressure from a loft tank.

Thanks. I just spotted that page myself. Thanks for the tip. This model
doesn't need a special tap, I hope. Will this model will work at low
pressure from a loft tank.

Unfortunately not. It has a minimum 1 bar rating, so would need a shower
pump. No mains supply nearby, I presume?

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
I have looked at these 10 to 15 litre electric under sink storage water
heaters. Screwfix sell them. They all seem to be around the 1 KW
capacity. Does anyone know where a 3 killowatt version is avaialble?

Ariston do one call the Europrisma EP10UR. This is available in 3kW and 10
(or optionally 15) litres unvented.

http://www.discountedheating.co.uk/s...r_Heaters.html

When shopping for unvented single point water heaters be careful when
choosing that you don't end up with the type that requires special
dripping
taps.

Christian.


I am intrigued - what is this "dripping tap"

John

When shopping for unvented single point water heaters be careful when
choosing that you don't end up with the type that requires special
dripping taps.

I am intrigued - what is this "dripping tap"

There is a type mains pressure vented heater that works on the principle
that the outlet of the cylinder goes to a special tap where the outlet isn't
actually turned on and off. Instead, the special tap actually controls the
*input* to the cylinder. When the tap is on, the cold mains comes into the
bottom of the cylinder and hot comes out mains pressure from the top and
through the tap. When the tap is off, no water enters the cylinder, but
water doesn't come out of the tap because it can't go uphill without a push.
It remains safe as it is in a vented condition at all times.

Disadvantages of the system are that you must use ugly expensive proprietary
taps and the expansion due to the water heating is taken up through the tap
dribbling away for 20 minutes, causing the untrained users to attempt to
turn the tap off harder, which knackers the tap washer and makes it drip
more.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
Thanks. I just spotted that page myself. Thanks for the tip. This model
doesn't need a special tap, I hope. Will this model will work at low
pressure from a loft tank.

Unfortunately not. It has a minimum 1 bar rating, so would need a shower
pump. No mains supply nearby, I presume?

Christian.

What I have is a large cylinder fed from the loft. It doesn't have an
immersion bosse for electric backup. I was thinking of using one of
these storage water heaters with a 3 kilowatt rating to heat the
cylinder. I was thinking of buying a cheap DAB pump for £26 from BES
(it is only for backup so a cheap pump will do) and connect the water
heater outlet to the a tee at the top coil connection to the cylinder,
and take a pipe off the bottom coil connection of the cylinder to the
water heater inlet. This forms a loop through the coil. Put the DAB
pump pumping into the water heater with a check valve on it. Will the
6 metre DAB pump enough pressure to operate the Ariston? All it needs
is water movement through the Ariston, until the whole cylinder is
heated then the Ariston thermostat cuts off the power. I see the
Ariston can be set to 80C, so this may make matters better.

This is far cheaper, and easier, than a new cylinder.

wrote:
Christian McArdle wrote:
Thanks. I just spotted that page myself. Thanks for the tip. This model
doesn't need a special tap, I hope. Will this model will work at low
pressure from a loft tank.

Unfortunately not. It has a minimum 1 bar rating, so would need a shower
pump. No mains supply nearby, I presume?

Christian.

What I have is a large cylinder fed from the loft. It doesn't have an
immersion bosse for electric backup. I was thinking of using one of
these storage water heaters with a 3 kilowatt rating to heat the
cylinder. I was thinking of buying a cheap DAB pump for £26 from BES
(it is only for backup so a cheap pump will do) and connect the water
heater outlet to the a tee at the top coil connection to the cylinder,
and take a pipe off the bottom coil connection of the cylinder to the
water heater inlet. This forms a loop through the coil. Put the DAB
pump pumping into the water heater with a check valve on it. Will the
6 metre DAB pump enough pressure to operate the Ariston? All it needs
is water movement through the Ariston, until the whole cylinder is
heated then the Ariston thermostat cuts off the power. I see the
Ariston can be set to 80C, so this may make matters better.

This is far cheaper, and easier, than a new cylinder.

I aim to have two full bore valves to isolate the pump and water
heater. http://www.bes.ltd.uk, numbers 9342 to 9347, are these pump
adaptors, with no valves? I can't fully understand what they are.

What I have is a large cylinder fed from the loft. It doesn't
have an immersion bosse for electric backup. I was thinking
of using one of these storage water heaters with a 3 kilowatt
rating to heat the cylinder.

Sod that. Just stick an immersion on the existing cylinder. You just need a
hole saw to make the hole and fit a new boss. MUCH cheaper. MUCH simpler.

Indeed if you are replacing an old immersion that's rusted in, then it is
probably simpler to just make a new hole and fit than risk bending the
cylinder removing it.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:
What I have is a large cylinder fed from the loft. It doesn't
have an immersion bosse for electric backup. I was thinking
of using one of these storage water heaters with a 3 kilowatt
rating to heat the cylinder.

Sod that. Just stick an immersion on the existing cylinder. You just need a
hole saw to make the hole and fit a new boss. MUCH cheaper. MUCH simpler.

Indeed if you are replacing an old immersion that's rusted in, then it is
probably simpler to just make a new hole and fit than risk bending the
cylinder removing it.

Christian.

The cylinder looks pretty new. That could be anything up to 10 years
old. It has the metal covering over the insulation, which means I can't
cut the cylinder. It definately does not have an immersion boss in it.


Using the Ariston water heater would give electric backup. Now if I fit
a 6 metre pump would that be enough? I think 6 metres means it can pump
up to 6 metres vertically up which is about 18 foot.That is about 0.5
bar, so does a 6 metre pump give 0.5 bar pressure?

Why does the Ariston water heater need one bar to operate? It is only a
steel cylinder with an element inside switched by a thermostat. Is
there some pressure valve that can be taken out on the inlet to the
water heater? All the pressure valves can be stripped off as it is not
working under high pressure.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Christian McArdle wrote:
What I have is a large cylinder fed from the loft. It doesn't
have an immersion bosse for electric backup. I was thinking
of using one of these storage water heaters with a 3 kilowatt
rating to heat the cylinder.

Sod that. Just stick an immersion on the existing cylinder. You just need
a
hole saw to make the hole and fit a new boss. MUCH cheaper. MUCH simpler.

Indeed if you are replacing an old immersion that's rusted in, then it is
probably simpler to just make a new hole and fit than risk bending the
cylinder removing it.

Christian.

The cylinder looks pretty new. That could be anything up to 10 years
old. It has the metal covering over the insulation, which means I can't
cut the cylinder. It definately does not have an immersion boss in it.


Why can't you cut it with a large tank cutter? it will require a larger hole
in the outer skin, a correct size hole in the inner (water containing) skin
and an immersion heater boss which mounts mechanically rather than solders
in. These were common at one time although I haven't seen one around for a
couple of years.

On 15 Nov 2005 11:02:12 -0800, wrote:


Using the Ariston water heater would give electric backup. Now if I fit
a 6 metre pump would that be enough? I think 6 metres means it can pump
up to 6 metres vertically up which is about 18 foot.That is about 0.5
bar, so does a 6 metre pump give 0.5 bar pressure?

Why does the Ariston water heater need one bar to operate? It is only a
steel cylinder with an element inside switched by a thermostat. Is
there some pressure valve that can be taken out on the inlet to the
water heater? All the pressure valves can be stripped off as it is not
working under high pressure.

Er, NO!!! you _WILL_ fit the supplied pressure relief valve, to avoid
potential dangers that you cannot forsee....

Why not just replace with another cylinder instead of faffing around
with pumps and water heaters?

Or phone Ariston and see what they have to say about it?

cheers,
Pete.

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On 15 Nov 2005 11:02:12 -0800, wrote:

Using the Ariston water heater would give electric backup. Now if I fit
a 6 metre pump would that be enough? I think 6 metres means it can pump
up to 6 metres vertically up which is about 18 foot.That is about 0.5
bar, so does a 6 metre pump give 0.5 bar pressure?

Why does the Ariston water heater need one bar to operate? It is only a
steel cylinder with an element inside switched by a thermostat. Is
there some pressure valve that can be taken out on the inlet to the
water heater? All the pressure valves can be stripped off as it is not
working under high pressure.

Er, NO!!! you _WILL_ fit the supplied pressure relief valve, to avoid
potential dangers that you cannot forsee....

Why? It is fitted on the CH primary circuit. If this is fed off an If an
F&E tank then there is "nothing" potentially dangerous that will go wrong.
If the immersion overboils it does so into the F&E tank. It could also be
taken off the secondary water in the cylinder and a bronze pump used,
although the bronze pump may make it too expensive.

Why not just replace with another cylinder instead of faffing around
with pumps and water heaters?

The water heater idea is quite good, and cheap enough. This was common in
some setups, where they had a tube with an immersion fitted with a flow and
return to the main cylinder it was heating. The water flowed through via
gravity, Depending on the size of the cylinder, then replacement may be
very expensive. I would avoid an Essex flange type of immersion boss.

It is possible to use a 2" immersion and some 2.5" pipe as a tube and
connect that to the cylinder directly. A 2" immersion is around £100 and
the 2.5" pipes an fitting making it an expensive undertaking.

Or phone Ariston and see what they have to say about it?

The makers will probably say no, as usual, when in fact the heater will be
operating in better conditions than connected to a high pressure main with
scaled water in it. It will have primary secondary water with inhibitor in
it, and at low pressure too. But it is worth asking them if it can operate
at very low pressures. All it needs is a water flow through it to circulate
heat into the coil and heat the secondary fresh water. he flow does not
have to be fast

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 22:32:46 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

Er, NO!!! you _WILL_ fit the supplied pressure relief valve, to avoid
potential dangers that you cannot forsee....

Why? It is fitted on the CH primary circuit. If this is fed off an If an
F&E tank then there is "nothing" potentially dangerous that will go wrong.
If the immersion overboils it does so into the F&E tank. It could also be
taken off the secondary water in the cylinder and a bronze pump used,
although the bronze pump may make it too expensive.

It's this bit that worried me:

On 15 Nov 2005 08:37:28 -0800, wrote:

I aim to have two full bore valves to isolate the pump and water
heater. http://www.bes.ltd.uk, numbers 9342 to 9347, are these pump
adaptors, with no valves? I can't fully understand what they are.

Also it's not "impossible" a buildup of sludge/scale won't plug the
pipes. These heaters are tested to 12 or 16 bar, and will burst
somewhat higher. Not good, especially if next to a cylinder full of
boiling hot water.

Leaving out a safety device because you don't understand it is a bit
'Darwinian' to say the least... and leads to more nannying legislation
for the rest of us.

Why not just replace with another cylinder instead of faffing around
with pumps and water heaters?

The water heater idea is quite good, and cheap enough.

Cheap! If he's doing up a house to sell on, why not invest a small
amount of money/effort into making it safe?

It is possible to use a 2" immersion and some 2.5" pipe as a tube and
connect that to the cylinder directly. A 2" immersion is around £100 and
the 2.5" pipes an fitting making it an expensive undertaking.

There's better, easier /and/ more cost effective ways, like use a
couple of these in a length of pipe eg:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4418108403

Still needs a 3 bar pressure relief valve next to them IMO.

Or phone Ariston and see what they have to say about it?

The makers will probably say no, as usual, when in fact the heater will be
operating in better conditions than connected to a high pressure main with
scaled water in it. It will have primary secondary water with inhibitor in
it, and at low pressure too. But it is worth asking them if it can operate
at very low pressures. All it needs is a water flow through it to circulate
heat into the coil and heat the secondary fresh water. he flow does not
have to be fast

They would never agree to leaving off the pressure releif valve for a
start....

cheers,
Pete.

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 22:32:46 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

Er, NO!!! you _WILL_ fit the supplied pressure relief valve, to avoid
potential dangers that you cannot forsee....

Why? It is fitted on the CH primary circuit. If this is fed off an If an
F&E tank then there is "nothing" potentially dangerous that will go
wrong.
If the immersion overboils it does so into the F&E tank. It could also
be
taken off the secondary water in the cylinder and a bronze pump used,
although the bronze pump may make it too expensive.

It's this bit that worried me:

If you understood CH systems it wouldn't

On 15 Nov 2005 08:37:28 -0800, wrote:

I aim to have two full bore valves to isolate the pump and water
heater. http://www.bes.ltd.uk, numbers 9342 to 9347, are these pump
adaptors, with no valves? I can't fully understand what they are.

Also it's not "impossible" a buildup of
sludge/scale won't plug the pipes.

It is in the primary side with inhibitor inside.

These heaters are tested to 12 or 16 bar, and will burst
somewhat higher. Not good, especially if next to a cylinder full of
boiling hot water.

It is on a "vented" system.

Leaving out a safety device because you don't understand it is a bit
'Darwinian' to say the least... and leads to more nannying legislation
for the rest of us.

The safety device is the oopen vented F&E tank.

Why not just replace with another cylinder
instead of faffing around
with pumps and water heaters?

The water heater idea is quite good, and cheap enough.

Cheap! If he's doing up a house to sell on, why not invest a small
amount of money/effort into making it safe?

It is safe.

It is possible to use a 2" immersion and
some 2.5" pipe as a tube and
connect that to the cylinder directly.
A 2" immersion is around £100 and
the 2.5" pipes an fitting making it an
expensive undertaking.

There's better, easier /and/ more cost
effective ways, like use a
couple of these in a length of pipe eg:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4418108403

£20 each second hand. How much new? So 4 of these would be needed to get
around 3kW (4 * 800 = 3.2kW) Do they have a stat on them?

Still needs a 3 bar pressure relief valve next to them IMO.

Not if it is on an open vented system.

Or phone Ariston and see what they have to say about it?

The makers will probably say no, as usual, when in fact the heater will
be
operating in better conditions than connected to a high pressure main
with
scaled water in it. It will have primary secondary water with inhibitor
in
it, and at low pressure too. But it is worth asking them if it can
operate
at very low pressures. All it needs is a water flow through it to
circulate
heat into the coil and heat the secondary fresh water. he flow does not
have to be fast

They would never agree to leaving off the pressure releif valve for a
start....

They would never agree to a deviation from what they normally sell they
thing, to avoid a setting a precedent. The fact is, that having in primary
water with inhibitor, on low pressure mean it will last longer and run
better.

Pressure relief valve not required on an open vented system. Some unvented
cylinders can be fitted open vented and the pressure relief valves removed.
Same thing.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
reenews.net...

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 22:32:46 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

Er, NO!!! you _WILL_ fit the supplied pressure relief valve, to avoid
potential dangers that you cannot forsee....

Why? It is fitted on the CH primary circuit. If this is fed off an If
an
F&E tank then there is "nothing" potentially dangerous that will go
wrong.
If the immersion overboils it does so into the F&E tank. It could also
be
taken off the secondary water in the cylinder and a bronze pump used,
although the bronze pump may make it too expensive.

It's this bit that worried me:

If you understood CH systems it wouldn't

On 15 Nov 2005 08:37:28 -0800, wrote:

I aim to have two full bore valves to isolate the pump and water
heater. http://www.bes.ltd.uk, numbers 9342 to 9347, are these pump
adaptors, with no valves? I can't fully understand what they are.

Also it's not "impossible" a buildup of
sludge/scale won't plug the pipes.

It is in the primary side with inhibitor inside.

These heaters are tested to 12 or 16 bar, and will burst
somewhat higher. Not good, especially if next to a cylinder full of
boiling hot water.

It is on a "vented" system.

Leaving out a safety device because you don't understand it is a bit
'Darwinian' to say the least... and leads to more nannying legislation
for the rest of us.

The safety device is the oopen vented F&E tank.

Why not just replace with another cylinder
instead of faffing around
with pumps and water heaters?

The water heater idea is quite good, and cheap enough.

Cheap! If he's doing up a house to sell on, why not invest a small
amount of money/effort into making it safe?

It is safe.

It is possible to use a 2" immersion and
some 2.5" pipe as a tube and
connect that to the cylinder directly.
A 2" immersion is around £100 and
the 2.5" pipes an fitting making it an
expensive undertaking.

There's better, easier /and/ more cost
effective ways, like use a
couple of these in a length of pipe eg:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4418108403

£20 each second hand. How much new? So 4 of these would be needed to get
around 3kW (4 * 800 = 3.2kW) Do they have a stat on them?

Screwfix sell them. To get 3kW you will need four and that comes to over
£120. Then there is no stat, so extra, and then the pipes to make an array,
the insulation and the pump. May as well use a 3 kW storage water heater,
with stat, insulation, etc and a pump.

TLC sell a 5 litre 3kW storage water heater (less water to heat up and
store) for £97 plus VAT
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...er_Sink_Water_
Heaters_Vented/

The installation instructions don't specify a minium pressure, so this may
be the answer. Needs checking though.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica.../Aquapoint.pdf

It has the metal covering over the insulation,

OK.

which means I can't cut the cylinder.

It means no such thing. You just cut through the outer casing first.

It definately does not have an immersion boss in it.

Seriously, cutting the cylinder and sticking in a new boss will be much
easier and cheaper than your proposed solution. It will also be more energy
efficient.

An immersion costs about 12 quid including overheat cutout thermostat. A
boss a couple of quid.

You're talking about using 100 quid's worth of heater, pipework, fittings,
pumps, etc. just to make an inferior solution.

Christian.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
reenews.net...
"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
reenews.net...

"Pete C" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 22:32:46 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

Er, NO!!! you _WILL_ fit the supplied pressure relief valve, to
avoid
potential dangers that you cannot forsee....

Why? It is fitted on the CH primary circuit. If this is fed off an
If
an
F&E tank then there is "nothing" potentially dangerous that will go
wrong.
If the immersion overboils it does so into the F&E tank. It could
also
be
taken off the secondary water in the cylinder and a bronze pump used,
although the bronze pump may make it too expensive.

It's this bit that worried me:

If you understood CH systems it wouldn't

On 15 Nov 2005 08:37:28 -0800, wrote:

I aim to have two full bore valves to isolate the pump and water
heater. http://www.bes.ltd.uk, numbers 9342 to 9347, are these pump
adaptors, with no valves? I can't fully understand what they are.

Also it's not "impossible" a buildup of
sludge/scale won't plug the pipes.

It is in the primary side with inhibitor inside.

These heaters are tested to 12 or 16 bar, and will burst
somewhat higher. Not good, especially if next to a cylinder full of
boiling hot water.

It is on a "vented" system.

Leaving out a safety device because you don't understand it is a bit
'Darwinian' to say the least... and leads to more nannying legislation
for the rest of us.

The safety device is the oopen vented F&E tank.

Why not just replace with another cylinder
instead of faffing around
with pumps and water heaters?

The water heater idea is quite good, and cheap enough.

Cheap! If he's doing up a house to sell on, why not invest a small
amount of money/effort into making it safe?

It is safe.

It is possible to use a 2" immersion and
some 2.5" pipe as a tube and
connect that to the cylinder directly.
A 2" immersion is around £100 and
the 2.5" pipes an fitting making it an
expensive undertaking.

There's better, easier /and/ more cost
effective ways, like use a
couple of these in a length of pipe eg:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4418108403

£20 each second hand. How much new? So 4 of these would be needed to
get
around 3kW (4 * 800 = 3.2kW) Do they have a stat on them?

Screwfix sell them. To get 3kW you will need four and that comes to over
£120. Then there is no stat, so extra, and then the pipes to make an
array,
the insulation and the pump. May as well use a 3 kW storage water heater,
with stat, insulation, etc and a pump.

TLC sell a 5 litre 3kW storage water heater (less water to heat up and
store) for £97 plus VAT

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...er_Sink_Water_
Heaters_Vented/

The installation instructions don't specify a minium pressure, so this may
be the answer. Needs checking though.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica.../Aquapoint.pdf

TLC also have a low pessure under sink water heater at 3kW (vented taps type
of heater) @ £122 plus VAT (TLC are never cheap, so worth looking
elsewhere). The Zipheaters installation instructions says it is only 2kW so
needs clarifying; instructions are often wrong and outdated. .
http://www.zipheaters.co.uk/pdfs/tudor.pdf

This can be used in an open vented system without any problems at all.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...rage_Water_Hea
ters/index.html

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It has the metal covering over the insulation,

OK.

which means I can't cut the cylinder.

It means no such thing. You just cut through the outer casing first.

It definately does not have an immersion boss in it.

Seriously, cutting the cylinder and sticking in a new boss will be much
easier and cheaper than your proposed solution. It will also be more
energy
efficient.

An immersion costs about 12 quid including overheat cutout thermostat. A
boss a couple of quid.

Plus an expensive tank cutter. I personally would not insert a boss with
rubber washers onto a cylinder. I have seen too many of them crumble away.
It is best to have them brazed in, but that will upset matters and make it
expensive.

You're talking about using 100 quid's worth of heater, pipework, fittings,
pumps, etc. just to make an inferior solution.

Look at the Zip Tudor vented water heater I mentioned in another post. For
around £150 for heater and pump you have a solution for backup hot water.
This cost of course has to be assessed to be worthwhile. TGB thinks so as
he is budgeting around £130 or so.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
reenews.net...

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It has the metal covering over the insulation,

OK.

which means I can't cut the cylinder.

It means no such thing. You just cut through the outer casing first.

It definately does not have an immersion boss in it.

Seriously, cutting the cylinder and sticking in a new boss will be much
easier and cheaper than your proposed solution. It will also be more
energy
efficient.

An immersion costs about 12 quid including overheat cutout thermostat. A
boss a couple of quid.

Plus an expensive tank cutter. I personally would not insert a boss with
rubber washers onto a cylinder. I have seen too many of them crumble
away.
It is best to have them brazed in, but that will upset matters and make it
expensive.

You're talking about using 100 quid's worth of heater, pipework,
fittings,
pumps, etc. just to make an inferior solution.

Look at the Zip Tudor vented water heater I mentioned in another post.
For
around £150 for heater and pump you have a solution for backup hot water.
This cost of course has to be assessed to be worthwhile. TGB thinks so as
he is budgeting around £130 or so.

The Santon Aquarius vented water heater at 3kW and the 7 litres model will
do. It can run off a cold tank. It needs a 4 metre head to work. So a 6
metre head pump will be fine as long as the pump is directly pumping into
the heater inlet as near as possible. At Plumbworld it is £97 inc VAT plus
£5 P*P. Installation instructions are at the Santon site,
http://www.santon.co.uk

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It has the metal covering over the insulation,

OK.

which means I can't cut the cylinder.

It means no such thing. You just cut through the outer casing first.

It definately does not have an immersion boss in it.

Seriously, cutting the cylinder and sticking in a new boss will be much
easier and cheaper than your proposed solution. It will also be more
energy
efficient.

An immersion costs about 12 quid including overheat cutout thermostat. A
boss a couple of quid.

You're talking about using 100 quid's worth of heater, pipework, fittings,
pumps, etc. just to make an inferior solution.

BES No. 12267, Essex immersion boss is £25 plus VAT plus P&P. Tank cutter
about £20 inc VAT inc P&P. Then the immersion. So not so cheap then. And if
you screw up the cylinder?

Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
It has the metal covering over the insulation,

OK.

which means I can't cut the cylinder.

It means no such thing. You just cut through the outer casing first.

It definately does not have an immersion boss in it.

Seriously, cutting the cylinder and sticking in a new boss will be much
easier and cheaper than your proposed solution. It will also be more
energy
efficient.

An immersion costs about 12 quid including overheat cutout thermostat. A
boss a couple of quid.

You're talking about using 100 quid's worth of heater, pipework, fittings,
pumps, etc. just to make an inferior solution.

BES No. 12267, Essex immersion boss is £25 plus VAT plus P&P. Tank cutter
about £20 inc VAT inc P&P. Then the immersion. So not so cheap then. And if
you screw up the cylinder?

Wow, I return and a workable solution. Thanks to all on this thread.
The pump and storage water heater is just an option, and I know a maker
will probably not honour the guaranteee. This is only for DHW backup,
and will rarely be used, like most immersion heaters. By the time
something brakes down the thing may have been in for 10 years at least
and used about twice. I can't see anything going wrong for 50 years,
with little use for the odd day every few years. Yes, everything is
open vented.

It seems it can work with no problems and spending £130 is worth it to
me, rather than replace a perfectly good, and smart looking, 250 litre
cylinder or play about with it. Really I am only paying about £60 more
than fitting an Immersion boss, which frightens me to tackle.

In article .com,
writes

Wow, I return and a workable solution.

It's absolutely hilarious to watch you talking to yourself posting as Dr
Drivel from readfreenews.net, then replying as timegoesby from Google
groups a few hours later. You're not fooling anyone, you know.

You really should consider seeking professional medical attention.

"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
writes

Wow, I return and a workable solution.

It's absolutely hilarious to watch you talking to yourself posting as Dr
Drivel from readfreenews.net, then replying as timegoesby from Google
groups a few hours later. You're not fooling anyone, you know.

You really should consider seeking professional medical attention.

Hey Tomlinson. My arse!

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
You really should consider seeking professional medical attention.

Hey Tomlinson. My arse!

That's the bit that needs the medical attention. Most talk with their
mouths.

--
*I'm already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" through haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

You really should consider seeking professional medical attention.

Hey Tomlinson. My arse!

That's the bit

Such senility.

** snip madness **

Mike Tomlinson wrote:
In article .com,
writes

Wow, I return and a workable solution.

It's absolutely hilarious to watch you talking to yourself posting as Dr
Drivel from readfreenews.net, then replying as timegoesby from Google
groups a few hours later. You're not fooling anyone, you know.

You really should consider seeking professional medical attention.

With all due respect I would suggest the same. The same team of
uk.d-i-y nutters on a few occassions have accused me of being IMM
because I value his knowledge, in this case it was the knowledge of a
number of people. Strange that I never Google on your posts when
searching for information.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes

My arse!

Do you make a habit of offering your arse to strangers on the internet?
You'll catch something nasty. Best stick to sitting in your overheated
council flat in Milton Keynes, wanking over combi manufacturer's
websites.

In article .com,
writes

Strange that I never Google on your posts when
searching for information.

Nor I yours. Your posting headers, as timegoesby and Drivel, show that
you are one and the same.

"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
In article .com,
writes

Strange that I never Google on your posts when
searching for information.

Nor I yours. Your posting headers, as timegoesby and Drivel, show that
you are one and the same.

Mr My Arse, sure they are.