I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall, gave
plastering a go. Plaster was too runny. Splashed everywhere and would
not really stay on the trowel. I kept holding the hawk at an angle and
it ran off onto the floor! Waited half hour, came back gave smoothing a
go. Not too bad, until I held a light at a very low angle and a horror
of dents and stratches were visible. When set, I scraped the plaster
off. The plaster flaked of wonderfully and I could examine the
thickness of the plaster "flakes". Generally less than 2mm, i.e. a bit
too thin.
Next time, and next, *still* too runny. Next time I will try it
thicker. Smoothing is not really that hard I have found, but spray
loads of water on. Undulations are more of an issue. When smoothing,
the trowel misses bits. I have since realised that these areas are the
dips, so of course they must be filled in during the smoothing. I have
managed to get some areas looking "perfect", now I just need to extend
this to the whole area! Due to the way I have improved in just 3 goes,
I'm sure I will get there eventually. But of course a whole large wall,
corners, curves, ceilings etc. is another matter.
I have found you need to be able to "imagine" the surface that you are
about to create, and be familier with what a flat wall is like. Go on,
get up and stroke a wall. Seriously. Your nearest will think you have
taken up buddism or something.
I am sure all these tips are what a plastering will gain over time
whether he realises it or not, but it may help to analyse them.
Simon.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall, gave
plastering a go. Plaster was too runny. Splashed everywhere and would
not really stay on the trowel. I kept holding the hawk at an angle and
it ran off onto the floor! Waited half hour, came back gave smoothing a
go. Not too bad, until I held a light at a very low angle and a horror
of dents and stratches were visible. When set, I scraped the plaster
off. The plaster flaked of wonderfully and I could examine the
thickness of the plaster "flakes". Generally less than 2mm, i.e. a bit
too thin.
Next time, and next, *still* too runny. Next time I will try it
thicker. Smoothing is not really that hard I have found, but spray
loads of water on. Undulations are more of an issue. When smoothing,
the trowel misses bits. I have since realised that these areas are the
dips, so of course they must be filled in during the smoothing. I have
managed to get some areas looking "perfect", now I just need to extend
this to the whole area! Due to the way I have improved in just 3 goes,
I'm sure I will get there eventually. But of course a whole large wall,
corners, curves, ceilings etc. is another matter.
I have found you need to be able to "imagine" the surface that you are
about to create, and be familier with what a flat wall is like. Go on,
get up and stroke a wall. Seriously. Your nearest will think you have
taken up buddism or something.
I am sure all these tips are what a plastering will gain over time
whether he realises it or not, but it may help to analyse them.
Simon.


Well Done!

I remember trying after watching a pro do it

he threw splashes of water from a paint brush on areas he needed to go over
as the plaster was
going off, I tried the same and found it really helped me

Keep going !

--
Vass

wrote:
I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall,
gave plastering a go. Plaster was too runny. Splashed everywhere and

Keep the trowel clean at all times and if the mix is too runny this will
give you scratches as the contents of the plaster has not the right
consistancy, the plaster should not slide of the hawk easily, try and use
large sweeps up the wall and not overlap the preceding sweep.

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_SKIMMING.htm

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Vass wrote:
Well Done!

I remember trying after watching a pro do it

he threw splashes of water from a paint brush on areas he needed to
go over as the plaster was
going off, I tried the same and found it really helped me

Keep going !

That's the technique, but at some stage or other you'll have to keep on
wetting the brush so a spray bottle holds an adequate amount to do all
four walls without the need to refilling it at intervals.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_SKIMMING.htm
What a superb site, how come I never found it before ?
A flexible bucket I will be buying, and also darby, or a few of
different lengths. Also, a very long trowel will I try, just to reduce
the undulations.
By the way, I have to ask - are you really an Earl ?
You may plead the 5th ammendment if that is appropriate.
Sorry if I offend (!)
All the best,
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:
By the way, I have to ask - are you really an Earl ?
You may plead the 5th ammendment if that is appropriate.

The 5th. amendment to what?

The 5th. amendment to what?
The US constitution, or the up-and-coming 5th amendment of part P,
which
prohibs the DIY switching off of the telly without a building regs
application.
Take your pick.
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:
The 5th. amendment to what?

The US constitution, or the up-and-coming 5th amendment of part P,

Argh! Part Pee - run away!

Argh! Part Pee - run away!
Can you do wiring before the room becomes a kitchen/bathroom, and so
not be subject to part P ?
Did ya see the post on possible part Q plumbing ? I am getting worried.
I know a chap who worked on gas turbines for years, but could not
get corgi certification because he did not have the relevant
experience.
I would much prefer him to do my gas than anyone else.
Simon.

wrote:
I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall, gave
plastering a go.

But why contiboard? (you do mean the plastic-laminated chipboard,
right?) It must be much harder to plaster a smooth, shiny surface like
that, but more significantly, it's surely going to behave very
differently than in the Real-Life Situation because the absorption
properties of the surface (ie zero) will be very different to
plasterboard or brick. As a chunk of 4'x3' plasterboard only costs 1.99
GBP, why not practice using that instead?

Or (hmmm..) am I missing something and is this a recognised method of
learning plastering?!

David

In message .com,
writes
I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall, gave
plastering a go. Plaster was too runny. Splashed everywhere and would
not really stay on the trowel. I kept holding the hawk at an angle and
it ran off onto the floor! Waited half hour, came back gave smoothing a
go. Not too bad, until I held a light at a very low angle and a horror
of dents and stratches were visible. When set, I scraped the plaster
off. The plaster flaked of wonderfully and I could examine the
thickness of the plaster "flakes". Generally less than 2mm, i.e. a bit
too thin.
Next time, and next, *still* too runny. Next time I will try it
thicker. Smoothing is not really that hard I have found, but spray
loads of water on. Undulations are more of an issue. When smoothing,
the trowel misses bits. I have since realised that these areas are the
dips, so of course they must be filled in during the smoothing. I have
managed to get some areas looking "perfect", now I just need to extend
this to the whole area! Due to the way I have improved in just 3 goes,
I'm sure I will get there eventually. But of course a whole large wall,
corners, curves, ceilings etc. is another matter.
I have found you need to be able to "imagine" the surface that you are
about to create, and be familier with what a flat wall is like. Go on,
get up and stroke a wall. Seriously. Your nearest will think you have
taken up buddism or something.
I am sure all these tips are what a plastering will gain over time
whether he realises it or not, but it may help to analyse them.
Simon.

Good fun isn't it.

And it takes a bit of practice.

Be warned, get plenty of practice in before you take on any sort of
sizeable project as you'll get a blister on your palm just below the
index finger which will then wear off and leave raw flesh underneath.


--
geoff

raden wrote:
In message .com,
writes
I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall,
gave plastering a go. Plaster was too runny. Splashed everywhere and
would not really stay on the trowel. I kept holding the hawk at an
angle and it ran off onto the floor! Waited half hour, came back
gave smoothing a go. Not too bad, until I held a light at a very low
angle and a horror of dents and stratches were visible. When set, I
scraped the plaster off. The plaster flaked of wonderfully and I
could examine the thickness of the plaster "flakes". Generally less
than 2mm, i.e. a bit too thin.
Next time, and next, *still* too runny. Next time I will try it
thicker. Smoothing is not really that hard I have found, but spray
loads of water on. Undulations are more of an issue. When smoothing,
the trowel misses bits. I have since realised that these areas are
the dips, so of course they must be filled in during the smoothing.
I have managed to get some areas looking "perfect", now I just need
to extend this to the whole area! Due to the way I have improved in
just 3 goes, I'm sure I will get there eventually. But of course a
whole large wall, corners, curves, ceilings etc. is another matter.
I have found you need to be able to "imagine" the surface that you
are about to create, and be familier with what a flat wall is like.
Go on, get up and stroke a wall. Seriously. Your nearest will think
you have taken up buddism or something.
I am sure all these tips are what a plastering will gain over time
whether he realises it or not, but it may help to analyse them.
Simon.

Good fun isn't it.

And it takes a bit of practice.

Be warned, get plenty of practice in before you take on any sort of
sizeable project as you'll get a blister on your palm just below the
index finger which will then wear off and leave raw flesh underneath.

lol, I got one exactly there shortly after learning to plaster.
Now I wear a rubber glove when polishing the plaster.
:-)
--

Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In article ,
says...
wrote:
I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall, gave
plastering a go.

But why contiboard? (you do mean the plastic-laminated chipboard,
right?) It must be much harder to plaster a smooth, shiny surface like
that, but more significantly, it's surely going to behave very
differently than in the Real-Life Situation because the absorption
properties of the surface (ie zero) will be very different to
plasterboard or brick. As a chunk of 4'x3' plasterboard only costs 1.99
GBP, why not practice using that instead?


What he said.

But why contiboard? (you do mean the plastic-laminated chipboard,
right?) It must be much harder to plaster a smooth, shiny surface like
that, but more significantly, it's surely going to behave very
differently than in the Real-Life Situation because the absorption
properties of the surface (ie zero) will be very different to
plasterboard or brick. As a chunk of 4'x3' plasterboard only costs 1.99
GBP, why not practice using that instead?
Yep, got lots or plasterboard anyway. The only point about contiboard
is that
the plaster scrapes of easily afterward, so no loads of badly-plastered
PB to
dispose of. Absorption will of course be nil, so you get longer to work
it !
Also, I guess if the PB is PVA'd anyway it will absorb less.
I will move onto PB, er, soon.
Simon.

Tried another one this morning.
I am finding it very hard to get an even initial coat on. The plaster
seems to congregate at the bottom of the sweep and tapers off to
nothing as I go up.
I guess I need a much sharper angle at the bottom. A very poor initial
application makes the next stage much harder.
Simon.

wrote:
Tried another one this morning.
I am finding it very hard to get an even initial coat on. The plaster
seems to congregate at the bottom of the sweep and tapers off to
nothing as I go up.
I guess I need a much sharper angle at the bottom. A very poor initial
application makes the next stage much harder.
Simon.

You need to press firmly in and make sure the plaster is evenly distributed
on the sweep and at the same time closing the blade as the plaster gets
less.
I don't know how much plaster your loading up on the trowel but if its a
large amount try reducing it.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

You need to press firmly in and make sure the plaster is evenly distributed
on the sweep and at the same time closing the blade as the plaster gets
less.
I don't know how much plaster your loading up on the trowel but if its a
large amount try reducing it.
I almost thought I had not enough on the trowel. The plasterers I've
seen
on the TV seem to sweep up about 3-4 feet in one go, and very fast.
I think the speed would help to reduce undulations, which tend to be
a result of arm wobble. Also, as I sweep I have in my head the thought
that
I have no idea how thick the layer is I am putting on !
You have to read that last line in the context of plastering.
Simon.

wrote:
You need to press firmly in and make sure the plaster is evenly
distributed on the sweep and at the same time closing the blade as
the plaster gets less.
I don't know how much plaster your loading up on the trowel but if
its a large amount try reducing it.
I almost thought I had not enough on the trowel. The plasterers I've
seen
on the TV seem to sweep up about 3-4 feet in one go, and very fast.
I think the speed would help to reduce undulations, which tend to be
a result of arm wobble. Also, as I sweep I have in my head the thought
that
I have no idea how thick the layer is I am putting on !
You have to read that last line in the context of plastering.
Simon.

These undulations your on about what exactly do you mean? i.e are they
ripples? if so this is because the blade has scraped the wall rather than
sliced across, whenever you hear a scrape or experiance a judder in the
blade immediatly smooth out that area again.
Do not take particular attention to discrepencies at the early stages of
applying the plaster as these can be rectified when it comes to polishing
the plaster, your main objective is to cover the whole area in as little
time as possible without the need to rush like a demented demon.

I do hope your using a drill paddle for the mixing as this gives a better
consistancy to the mix and also negates the need for an helper.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

One other thing...
There are no rules as to where you start the plastering i.e ceiling,floor
or side sweep.
Its whatever you feel comfortable with.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

These undulations your on about what exactly do you mean? i.e are they
ripples? if so this is because the blade has scraped the wall rather than
sliced across, whenever you hear a scrape or experiance a judder in the
blade immediatly smooth out that area again.
Yep, I've had the judders. I don't mean that. I mean the depth is not
consistent across the area. It you try to apply the plaster too slowly,
the natural wobbles of your arm will effect the depth, unless you have
a surgeons steady hand.

Do not take particular attention to discrepencies at the early stages of
applying the plaster as these can be rectified when it comes to polishing
the plaster, your main objective is to cover the whole area in as little
time as possible without the need to rush like a demented demon.

I do hope your using a drill paddle for the mixing as this gives a better
consistancy to the mix and also negates the need for an helper.

Yep, I use a drill paddle. My drill tends to run too fast thought. A
drill
with a gearbox would be useful.

wrote:
[snip]

Yep, I use a drill paddle. My drill tends to run too fast thought. A
drill
with a gearbox would be useful.

Ha! no need to plaster the wall then. lol :-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
One other thing...
There are no rules as to where you start the plastering i.e ceiling,floor
or side sweep.
Its whatever you feel comfortable with.

Hmm, tell that to the last plasterer I employed. He absolutely insisted
on doing ceilings first despite it causing me a lot of grief doing it
that way round (ie, I hadn't got ceilings ready in time); basically
pulled the old "me-tradesman-you-DIY-knownothing-muppet" routine on me.
Love 'em.

David

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
wrote:
I bought a piece of contiboard about 200 x 60, screwed it to wall,
gave plastering a go. Plaster was too runny. Splashed everywhere and

Keep the trowel clean at all times and if the mix is too runny this will
give you scratches as the contents of the plaster has not the right
consistancy, the plaster should not slide of the hawk easily, try and use
large sweeps up the wall and not overlap the preceding sweep.

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_SKIMMING.htm

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

That's a good website. And I particularly like the fact he's written it
so even stupid people won't get it wrong:

'This is done by wetting the wall, a good technique is to wet a paint
brush and then throw it at the wall, but keep hold of the brush and the
water will hit the wall.'

LMAO....

Lobster wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
One other thing...
There are no rules as to where you start the plastering i.e
ceiling,floor or side sweep.
Its whatever you feel comfortable with.

Hmm, tell that to the last plasterer I employed. He absolutely
insisted on doing ceilings first despite it causing me a lot of grief
doing it that way round (ie, I hadn't got ceilings ready in time);
basically pulled the old "me-tradesman-you-DIY-knownothing-muppet"
routine on me. Love 'em.

David

oops! sorry,he may be right. :-)

Ok when I wrote that I meant in the sense of A wall start at the ceiling
and work down, now do follow. ;-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

These undulations your on about what exactly do you mean? i.e are they
ripples? if so this is because the blade has scraped the wall rather than
sliced across, whenever you hear a scrape or experiance a judder in the
blade immediatly smooth out that area again.
Do not take particular attention to discrepencies at the early stages of
applying the plaster as these can be rectified when it comes to polishing
the plaster, your main objective is to cover the whole area in as little
time as possible without the need to rush like a demented demon.


I have a newly plaster room - skimmed plasterboard - but after the
first mist coat of emulsion I have noticed some very obvious ripples
and lines in certain areas. What do you mean by "polishing the
plaster"? Is this a way of getting rid of these imperfections?

I am currently trying to sand back the affected areas and was thinking
of slapping some filler into these areas then sanding back again.
Otherwise, the only option I can think of is to re-skim everything -
which obviously I (or the builder for that matter) don't want to do.

In addition to these ripples, there are a couple of areas that were
patched due to late changes in design. Again, there are visible areas
where the patch has taken place. I assume trying to blend this lines in
would need a similar techniquie to smoothing the ripples.

Any suggestions for this - without lining the wall with lining paper.

Chris

swinster wrote:
These undulations your on about what exactly do you mean? i.e are
they ripples? if so this is because the blade has scraped the wall
rather than sliced across, whenever you hear a scrape or experiance
a judder in the blade immediatly smooth out that area again.
Do not take particular attention to discrepencies at the early
stages of applying the plaster as these can be rectified when it
comes to polishing the plaster, your main objective is to cover the
whole area in as little time as possible without the need to rush
like a demented demon.


I have a newly plaster room - skimmed plasterboard - but after the
first mist coat of emulsion I have noticed some very obvious ripples
and lines in certain areas. What do you mean by "polishing the
plaster"? Is this a way of getting rid of these imperfections?


The polishing can only be done whilst the plaster is still damp, 20mins
after applying it to the wall.

I am currently trying to sand back the affected areas and was thinking
of slapping some filler into these areas then sanding back again.
Otherwise, the only option I can think of is to re-skim everything -
which obviously I (or the builder for that matter) don't want to do.

Takes a lot of doing even with a sander as the sandpaper gets clogged quite
easilyand creates a lot of dust. reskim is only option.

In addition to these ripples, there are a couple of areas that were
patched due to late changes in design. Again, there are visible areas
where the patch has taken place. I assume trying to blend this lines
in would need a similar techniquie to smoothing the ripples.

Any suggestions for this - without lining the wall with lining paper.


These patches obviously where not polished as the edges would have almost
blended with the original plaster

I'd skim again if your looking for perfection otherwise it's a case of
Lining the walls.

Chris

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

swinster wrote:
I have a newly plaster room - skimmed plasterboard - but after the
first mist coat of emulsion I have noticed some very obvious ripples
and lines in certain areas. What do you mean by "polishing the
plaster"? Is this a way of getting rid of these imperfections?

I am currently trying to sand back the affected areas and was thinking
of slapping some filler into these areas then sanding back again.

Should be OK - apply the filler with a float to get a
good flat finish before light rubbing down. Damp the
plaster first!

swinster wrote:
What do you mean by "polishing the plaster"?
oops! forgot the important bit.

Polishing is scraping the blade at an angle to the wall all over and
wetting the wall at intervals to keep the blade moist a sort of burning
process to iron out imperfections and at the same time putting a sheen on
the finshished appearance, small amounts of plaster is need to fill some
imperfections as can be seen when polishing at different eye positions.

did you read the details in the URL I posted for a better understanding?


--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

I'd have to disagree.You always start at the top left hand corner if
you're right handed.Do your fills along the wall and ceiling and then
work left to right.This way you're constantly skimming over your 'clean
off' finish.

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
k...
swinster wrote:
What do you mean by "polishing the plaster"?
oops! forgot the important bit.

Polishing is scraping the blade at an angle to the wall all over and
wetting the wall at intervals to keep the blade moist a sort of burning
process to iron out imperfections and at the same time putting a sheen on
the finshished appearance, small amounts of plaster is need to fill some
imperfections as can be seen when polishing at different eye positions.

did you read the details in the URL I posted for a better understanding?

can you please post the URL again? My browser wont go back far enough
through the news.

Thanks!

The Right Hon. Henry Bonsor Sneditch



--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

trenchfoot wrote:
I'd have to disagree.You always start at the top left hand corner if
you're right handed.Do your fills along the wall and ceiling and then
work left to right.This way you're constantly skimming over your
'clean off' finish.


Disagree with whom/what? Plastering is down to the DIY individual and at
what level they feel comfortable.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_SKIMMING.htm

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Lobster wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
One other thing...
There are no rules as to where you start the plastering i.e ceiling,floor
or side sweep.
Its whatever you feel comfortable with.

Idiot.

Hmm, tell that to the last plasterer I employed. He absolutely insisted
on doing ceilings first despite it causing me a lot of grief doing it
that way round (ie, I hadn't got ceilings ready in time); basically
pulled the old "me-tradesman-you-DIY-knownothing-muppet" routine on me.
Love 'em.

You mean you hired a real plasterer rather than an idiot and now
realise your mistake?
Pillock.

29 posts into a thread about learning to plaster via the internet and
you think you are no longer a muppet?

1. The surface is cleaner at the top. If you start low down you pick up
all the dirt off the floor and get into trouble you pilock.

2. Water runs down hill. Starting at the top means it wont run down
onto finished work you idiot muppet pillock.

3. It's easier to clean snots off an unfinished surface rather than a
finished one, idiot.

4. Running all over the floor with a trowel full of plaster while
staring intently at the ceiling will cause a lot less damage to an
unfinished surface, insert favourite epithet here.

5. Planks tend to bang against walls when installing the scaffold. Then
they tend to bang against them when in use folowing the final work on
the ceiling, planks tend to bang against walls as they are removed, you
plank.

I really hope he overcharged you.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
Lobster wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
One other thing...
There are no rules as to where you start the plastering i.e
ceiling,floor or side sweep.
Its whatever you feel comfortable with.

Idiot.

Hmm, tell that to the last plasterer I employed. He absolutely
insisted on doing ceilings first despite it causing me a lot of
grief doing it that way round (ie, I hadn't got ceilings ready in
time); basically pulled the old
"me-tradesman-you-DIY-knownothing-muppet" routine on me. Love 'em.

You mean you hired a real plasterer rather than an idiot and now
realise your mistake?
Pillock.

29 posts into a thread about learning to plaster via the internet and
you think you are no longer a muppet?

1. The surface is cleaner at the top. If you start low down you pick
up all the dirt off the floor and get into trouble you pilock.

2. Water runs down hill. Starting at the top means it wont run down
onto finished work you idiot muppet pillock.

3. It's easier to clean snots off an unfinished surface rather than a
finished one, idiot.

4. Running all over the floor with a trowel full of plaster while
staring intently at the ceiling will cause a lot less damage to an
unfinished surface, insert favourite epithet here.

5. Planks tend to bang against walls when installing the scaffold.
Then they tend to bang against them when in use folowing the final
work on the ceiling, planks tend to bang against walls as they are
removed, you plank.

I really hope he overcharged you.

Do you have any idea why plasters start with ceiling first? Idiot.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

tanks very much yer lordship.
It is so nice to deal with royalty round here for a change.

Des


"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
k...
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_SKIMMING.htm

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Bugger - I was hoping that this was NOT going to be the suggestion. I
did have a word with a local Leyland's decorator's store who
suggested that something like a powder joint filler (Gyproc Easi-Fill)
spread with a large flexible filler applicator.

I phoned our builder and as kind of expected he was not best please
that I may want everything re-skimmed. He said something along the
lines of he can't re-skim as we may suffer form further cracking and
bit falling out due to the fact that the boards are below the first
floor. However, he did say he would try to level ripples with a joint
filler, in a similar fashion to what was suggested to me earlier. He
also said that it was a very difficult job because the original ceiling
joists did not give a very flat ceiling line. It was difficult for them
to work, as we could also not afford to loose a lot of head height (the
job was a converted basement).

My original filling exercise has proved to by rubbish.

Chris

I am currently trying to sand back the affected areas and was thinking
of slapping some filler into these areas then sanding back again.
Otherwise, the only option I can think of is to re-skim everything -
which obviously I (or the builder for that matter) don't want to do.

Takes a lot of doing even with a sander as the sandpaper gets clogged quite
easilyand creates a lot of dust. reskim is only option.

In addition to these ripples, there are a couple of areas that were
patched due to late changes in design. Again, there are visible areas
where the patch has taken place. I assume trying to blend this lines
in would need a similar techniquie to smoothing the ripples.

Any suggestions for this - without lining the wall with lining paper.


These patches obviously where not polished as the edges would have almost
blended with the original plaster

I'd skim again if your looking for perfection otherwise it's a case of
Lining the walls.

swinster wrote:
Bugger - I was hoping that this was NOT going to be the suggestion. I
did have a word with a local Leyland's decorator's store who
suggested that something like a powder joint filler (Gyproc Easi-Fill)
spread with a large flexible filler applicator.

I phoned our builder and as kind of expected he was not best please
that I may want everything re-skimmed. He said something along the
lines of he can't re-skim as we may suffer form further cracking and
bit falling out due to the fact that the boards are below the first
floor. However, he did say he would try to level ripples with a joint
filler, in a similar fashion to what was suggested to me earlier. He
also said that it was a very difficult job because the original
ceiling joists did not give a very flat ceiling line. It was
difficult for them to work, as we could also not afford to loose a
lot of head height (the job was a converted basement).

My original filling exercise has proved to by rubbish.

Chris


Shoot the builder. ;-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

I take it that from this remark that reskimming would be fine and casue
no problems. Shooting the builder would not actully fix the ripples in
our plaster.

We spent ages interviewing builders for this job, gathering quote and
chansing references. It was no small exercise for us and the builder
have done a very good job in the whole of the converstion - just a
supper smoth finsh is not quite as expected.

swinster wrote:
I take it that from this remark that reskimming would be fine and
casue no problems. Shooting the builder would not actully fix the
ripples in our plaster.

We spent ages interviewing builders for this job, gathering quote and
chansing references. It was no small exercise for us and the builder
have done a very good job in the whole of the converstion - just a
supper smoth finsh is not quite as expected.

Always hire a Pro for the plastering if you want super dooper finish. Years
ago before I got into plastering I got recommended a plasterer and decided
against not having him do the work because during the conversation of what
I wanted doing he came up with a remark like" I can get the wall looking
flat, but I can't give you a complete flatness finish".
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In message , The3rd Earl
Of Derby writes
trenchfoot wrote:
I'd have to disagree.You always start at the top left hand corner if
you're right handed.Do your fills along the wall and ceiling and then
work left to right.This way you're constantly skimming over your
'clean off' finish.


Disagree with whom/what? Plastering is down to the DIY individual and at
what level they feel comfortable.

Yeah, I'd always work right to left

--
geoff