Do I need to go down the shielded route since I'm going to have wireless
gadgets or is that a waste of time?

Rex.. wrote:
Do I need to go down the shielded route since I'm going to have wireless
gadgets or is that a waste of time?

I have used standard Cat5 in my house for years alongside a wireless
network - no problems with drop out or speed here

HTH

DeeBee

In article ,
"Rex.." writes:
Do I need to go down the shielded route since I'm going to have wireless
gadgets or is that a waste of time?

It can be worse than an waste of time/money. If you use shielded
and don't correctly handle the shield, it acts as an antenna,
making it worse than using unshielded.

Unshielded is fine -- there are office buildings full of both
unshielded and wireless working together, without any problems.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Do I need to go down the shielded route since I'm going to have wireless
gadgets or is that a waste of time?

It can be worse than an waste of time/money. If you use shielded
and don't correctly handle the shield, it acts as an antenna,
making it worse than using unshielded.

Unshielded is fine -- there are office buildings full of both
unshielded and wireless working together, without any problems.

Thanks.. It'll make it so much cheaper

On Sat, 03 Sep 2005 12:50:07 GMT, Rex.. wrote:

Do I need to go down the shielded route since I'm going to have
wireless gadgets or is that a waste of time?

erm, why do you need cable if you are going wireless?

But I guess you mean the umpteen other wireless gadgets that a home
can have these days. None of which run a high enough power levels to
require network cabling to be screened. Indeed you are more likely to
have trouble with all the wireless gadgets all trying to use the same
limited band allocations...

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

The idea with UTP is that two identical wires running almost identical
routes will be subject to near identical interference. If the two wires
hold 0v and 5v yet become subject to interference that adds 7v to each
then you get 7v and 12v. A properly designed modern system will simply
look at the difference between the two (still 5v). This is not always
done well, but it is one of the normal things checked when a system is
designed (it's called common mode noise rejection). I have yet to find
a device that performs so badly that it would have problems in anything
but the most demanding location (such as an engine bay).