Dodgy Electrician?
 

Hi all,

I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the kitchen
sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to three different
people. In order to wire up the extractor above the hob, the electrician
took a feed from a local socket, ran it to where the extractor 'chimney'
would be, and fitted a normal white plug socket. He then plugged the
extractor in, and fitted the 'chimney' to the extractor.

Now, to me this seems a little bit dangerous. Won't there be heat/moisture
being sucked through the extractor and out the chimney, therefore close to
the plug socket? Wouldn't it have been better to wire the extractor into a
fused plate-thing somewhere away from the actual appliance?

The same electrician was due to return last night to wire up the lights in
the units, but he didn't turn up. No phone call, nothing. If this extractor
wiring is in any way dodgy, he's not coming near my house again.

Thanks for any advice


Dan

In article , "-=D@n=-"
writes
Hi all,

I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the kitchen
sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to three different
people. In order to wire up the extractor above the hob, the electrician
took a feed from a local socket, ran it to where the extractor 'chimney'
would be, and fitted a normal white plug socket. He then plugged the
extractor in, and fitted the 'chimney' to the extractor.

Now, to me this seems a little bit dangerous. Won't there be heat/moisture
being sucked through the extractor and out the chimney, therefore close to
the plug socket? Wouldn't it have been better to wire the extractor into a
fused plate-thing somewhere away from the actual appliance?

The same electrician was due to return last night to wire up the lights in
the units, but he didn't turn up. No phone call, nothing. If this extractor
wiring is in any way dodgy, he's not coming near my house again.

Sounds fine to me ... surely the heat/moisture you are worried about is
inside the extractor ducting, and the power socket is outside it?
--
Tim Mitchell

Tim Mitchell wrote:
In article , "-=D@n=-"
writes
Hi all,

I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the kitchen
sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to three
different people. In order to wire up the extractor above the hob,
the electrician took a feed from a local socket, ran it to where the
extractor 'chimney' would be, and fitted a normal white plug socket.
He then plugged the extractor in, and fitted the 'chimney' to the
extractor. Now, to me this seems a little bit dangerous. Won't there be
heat/moisture being sucked through the extractor and out the
chimney, therefore close to the plug socket? Wouldn't it have been
better to wire the extractor into a fused plate-thing somewhere away
from the actual appliance? The same electrician was due to return last
night to wire up the
lights in the units, but he didn't turn up. No phone call, nothing.
If this extractor wiring is in any way dodgy, he's not coming near
my house again.
Sounds fine to me ... surely the heat/moisture you are worried about
is inside the extractor ducting, and the power socket is outside it?

Yeah, yeah I suppose it is. It just didn't seem right to me. Oh well, I'll
leave it as it is.

Thanks for your reply.

Dan

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the kitchen
sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to three different
people. In order to wire up the extractor above the hob, the electrician
took a feed from a local socket, ran it to where the extractor 'chimney'
would be, and fitted a normal white plug socket. He then plugged the
extractor in, and fitted the 'chimney' to the extractor.

Can you isolate the hood without dismantling it?
(Is there a switch and/or a fuse next to the socket for the spur the
extractor is plugged into?)

Sparks..

Sparks wrote:
"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the kitchen
sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to three
different people. In order to wire up the extractor above the hob,
the electrician took a feed from a local socket, ran it to where the
extractor 'chimney' would be, and fitted a normal white plug socket.
He then plugged the extractor in, and fitted the 'chimney' to the
extractor.

Can you isolate the hood without dismantling it?
(Is there a switch and/or a fuse next to the socket for the spur the
extractor is plugged into?)

Hi Sparks,

in a word, no. The wiring is straight into the spur for the kitchen sockets,
so i'd have to switch an RCD(?) off at the CU(?) to isolate it. But that
would be isolating all the sockets, not just the hood.

Does that mean he's done a bad job?

Thanks

Dan

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Sparks wrote:
"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the kitchen
sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to three
different people. In order to wire up the extractor above the hob,
the electrician took a feed from a local socket, ran it to where the
extractor 'chimney' would be, and fitted a normal white plug socket.
He then plugged the extractor in, and fitted the 'chimney' to the
extractor.

Can you isolate the hood without dismantling it?
(Is there a switch and/or a fuse next to the socket for the spur the
extractor is plugged into?)

Hi Sparks,

in a word, no. The wiring is straight into the spur for the kitchen
sockets,
so i'd have to switch an RCD(?) off at the CU(?) to isolate it. But that
would be isolating all the sockets, not just the hood.

Does that mean he's done a bad job?

Is 'isolating' different than simply unplugging it?

Grumps wrote:
"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Sparks wrote:
"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the
kitchen sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to
three different people. In order to wire up the extractor above
the hob, the electrician took a feed from a local socket, ran it
to where the extractor 'chimney' would be, and fitted a normal
white plug socket. He then plugged the extractor in, and fitted
the 'chimney' to the extractor.

Can you isolate the hood without dismantling it?
(Is there a switch and/or a fuse next to the socket for the spur the
extractor is plugged into?)

Hi Sparks,

in a word, no. The wiring is straight into the spur for the kitchen
sockets, so i'd have to switch an RCD(?) off at the CU(?) to isolate
it. But that would be isolating all the sockets, not just the hood.

Does that mean he's done a bad job?

Is 'isolating' different than simply unplugging it?

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it, but I can switch off
the spur that it's connected to. But that would also switch off lots of
other stuff.

-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have finger
access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing the chimney?


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing the
chimney?

Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual extractor,
and the plug is under the chimney.

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing the
chimney?

Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual
extractor, and the plug is under the chimney.

You really are desperately looking for something to crib about aren't you?

John wrote:
"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing
the chimney?

Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual
extractor, and the plug is under the chimney.

You really are desperately looking for something to crib about aren't
you?

As I re-read the thread, it would appear so, yes. But I was just really
asking if the way he'd done the job was 'normal'. I guess I'm just annoyed
that he didn't turn up last night!

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message...
Yeah, yeah I suppose it is. It just didn't seem right to me. Oh well, I'll
leave it as it is.

My cooker extractor fan is wired to a plug, which plugs into a spurred
socket above the cabinets in much the same manner you described. Nothing
wrong with that!


--
Best Wishes
Simon (aka Dark Angel)
"Dark Angel's Realm of Horror" - http://www.realmofhorror.co.uk
"Realm of Horror Radio" - http://www.live365.com/stations/313834

Dark Angel wrote:
"-=D@n=-" wrote in message...
Yeah, yeah I suppose it is. It just didn't seem right to me. Oh
well, I'll leave it as it is.

My cooker extractor fan is wired to a plug, which plugs into a spurred
socket above the cabinets in much the same manner you described.
Nothing wrong with that!

Oh ok, ta. It just didn't seem very professional. I would have thought it
better to wire directly into the ring(?) with a fused plate somewhere.

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message...
Oh ok, ta. It just didn't seem very professional. I would have thought it
better to wire directly into the ring(?) with a fused plate somewhere.

Well it's no differant to using a switched fused spur unit and wiring that
into the mains, electricity will still flow through the outlet (be it a
socket or fused spur) into the appliance (be it plugged in or wired in
directly).


--
Best Wishes
Simon (aka Dark Angel)
"Dark Angel's Realm of Horror" - http://www.realmofhorror.co.uk
"Realm of Horror Radio" - http://www.live365.com/stations/313834

In article ,
-=D@n=- wrote:
Oh ok, ta. It just didn't seem very professional. I would have thought
it better to wire directly into the ring(?) with a fused plate
somewhere.

Or the lighting circuit - since that's usually closer. But I agree an FCU
would look neater than a plug and socket - if you can see it. If it's not
on show, it doesn't matter.

--
*Why is a boxing ring square?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "-=D@n=-"
writes
Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing the
chimney?

Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual extractor,
and the plug is under the chimney.


Then it seems a reasonable job to me.
He has provided a safe was to isolate the extractor (plug & socket),
hidden from view, accessible before you have to dismantle any of the
main casing.

--
steve

Steven Briggs wrote:
Then it seems a reasonable job to me.
He has provided a safe was to isolate the extractor (plug & socket),
hidden from view, accessible before you have to dismantle any of the
main casing.

Better than a fused spur in my opinion as the extractor can be fully
disconnected by just pulling the plug, no need to turn off everything to
unwire the connection.


--
David Clark

$message_body_include ="PLES RING IF AN RNSR IS REQIRD"

In article ,
DJC wrote:
Better than a fused spur in my opinion as the extractor can be fully
disconnected by just pulling the plug, no need to turn off everything to
unwire the connection.

If it's an FCU with a switch these are double pole switched these days.

But nothing like actually unplugging something to know it's isolated.

--
*'Progress' and 'Change' are not synonyms.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
says...

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing the
chimney?

Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual
extractor, and the plug is under the chimney.

You really are desperately looking for something to crib about aren't you?




I have to say, I think that he is right to "crib", if I
understand his situation correctly...

It appears from his posts that in order to isolate the hood, he
has to partly dismantle it. In the event of a fault, there may not be
time, particularly if tools are needed to do so...

In addition, since most modern hoods seem to be double insulated,
a fault where the hood (if it's metal) comes live, by virtue of a
faulty cable, for instance, could prove difficult to overcome without
switching off at the consumer unit.

Placing isolators for kitchen appliances in an adjacent cupboard
is frowned upon by some, but placing them out of easy reach iirc does
not meet current regs...

--
Regards,

Will.

Will wrote:
In article ,
says...

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing
the chimney?

Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual
extractor, and the plug is under the chimney.

You really are desperately looking for something to crib about
aren't you?




I have to say, I think that he is right to "crib", if I
understand his situation correctly...

It appears from his posts that in order to isolate the hood, he
has to partly dismantle it. In the event of a fault, there may not be
time, particularly if tools are needed to do so...

In addition, since most modern hoods seem to be double insulated,
a fault where the hood (if it's metal) comes live, by virtue of a
faulty cable, for instance, could prove difficult to overcome without
switching off at the consumer unit.

Placing isolators for kitchen appliances in an adjacent cupboard
is frowned upon by some, but placing them out of easy reach iirc does
not meet current regs...

See, that's what I was getting at I think. On our old kitchen, there was an
FCU(?) next to the hob that would switch off the power to the extractor.
That's what I would have preferred. I'm interested in what you say about
current regs, so i'm going to get an electrician friend to take a look.

Thanks for the reply.

Dan

"Will" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

"-=D@n=-" wrote in message
...
Grunff wrote:
-=D@n=- wrote:

Erm, I dunno. I can't unplug it without dismantling it

But how much dismantling? When you remove the cover, do you have
finger access to any electric terminals? Or are you just removing the
chimney?

Just removing the chimney. The chimney slots on top of the actual
extractor, and the plug is under the chimney.

You really are desperately looking for something to crib about aren't
you?




I have to say, I think that he is right to "crib", if I
understand his situation correctly...

It appears from his posts that in order to isolate the hood, he
has to partly dismantle it. In the event of a fault, there may not be
time, particularly if tools are needed to do so...

You are coming in late in this thread, the OP has already admitted elsewhere
his wording looked that way. In any case it now appears that "dismantling"
simply involved pulling off a "cosmetic" cover to reveal the plug and
socket.
If the fault is such that an immediate danger exists then the most sensible
course of action is to evacuate the room. A normal fault would simply cause
the fuse in the plug to operate as it is designed to do.