Before I set about putting laminate floor in the dining room, I thought I
should investigate why walking across part of it caused a nearby coffee
table to wobble to such an extent that the cordless phone on it became
disconnected and reconnected to the charger thereby producing a 'beep'.

The hatch cut in the chipboard reveals a dwarf-wall with a piece of
damp-proof course on top of it, and a gap of about 3 to 5mm between the dpc
and the joists.

It looks like wedges might be an answer to bridging the gap, but would they
stay in place?

Any other suggestions please?

Ian

"Ian Smeaton" wrote in message
...
Before I set about putting laminate floor in the dining room, I thought I
should investigate why walking across part of it caused a nearby coffee
table to wobble to such an extent that the cordless phone on it became
disconnected and reconnected to the charger thereby producing a 'beep'.

The hatch cut in the chipboard reveals a dwarf-wall with a piece of
damp-proof course on top of it, and a gap of about 3 to 5mm between the
dpc
and the joists.

It looks like wedges might be an answer to bridging the gap, but would
they
stay in place?

Any other suggestions please?

Ian

I had this, I had to build new pillars, I raised the floor a little then
lowered it onto the set pillars, an alternative is to build up the pillar
and drive wedges between or under the bricks to hold the floor up till the
cement sets.

Ian Smeaton wrote:
It looks like wedges might be an answer to bridging the gap, but would they
stay in place?

They will if you slather them in glue before whacking them in, and do it
last thing at night so it sets before the floor is walked on.

Or you could fill the gap with car body filler.

Owain

Owain wrote:
Ian Smeaton wrote:
It looks like wedges might be an answer to bridging the gap, but would they
stay in place?

They will if you slather them in glue before whacking them in, and do it
last thing at night so it sets before the floor is walked on.

Or you could fill the gap with car body filler.

cartoon
A DIY scene:
The caption, "No more squeaks".
A 2" hole drilled through the floor, and 18 empty 55 gallon drums of car
body filler that have been poured through the hole.
/cartoon

Ian Smeaton wrote:

Any other suggestions please?

Slate.

Lift the joist a little (or more if it has sagged) before inserting it
(long pry bar, trolly jack or acrow), and place in as many layers as
required. It has the advantages of being very strong in compression,
thin enough to add in layers, and it won't bridge moisture to the wood.

--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

In message , Ian
Smeaton writes

The hatch cut in the chipboard reveals a dwarf-wall with a piece of
damp-proof course on top of it, and a gap of about 3 to 5mm between the dpc
and the joists.

It looks like wedges might be an answer to bridging the gap, but would they
stay in place?

IME yes. Well for a bout a year before we moved anyway.

I had this problem, as well having to rebuild a couple of pillars etc.

I used some of those ridge wedges that you can get that you use in
pairs to space out laminate flooring etc. from the wall. - because I had
a load of them.
--
Chris French

"Ian Smeaton" wrote in message
...
Before I set about putting laminate floor in the dining room, I thought I
should investigate why walking across part of it caused a nearby coffee
table to wobble to such an extent that the cordless phone on it became
disconnected and reconnected to the charger thereby producing a 'beep'.

The hatch cut in the chipboard reveals a dwarf-wall with a piece of
damp-proof course on top of it, and a gap of about 3 to 5mm between the
dpc
and the joists.

It looks like wedges might be an answer to bridging the gap, but would
they
stay in place?

Any other suggestions please?

Ian




Slate is excellent as John Rumm says. Otherwise pieces of wood or ply. If
not an exact fit I use pieces of DPC cut from a roll to adjust.

I advise against just whacking in as much material as you can find until you
it can go no further. You might find that you have then raised the joist
further than it should go and have new gaps elsewhere to fill.

"rrh" wrote in message
. uk...

"Ian Smeaton" wrote in message
...
Before I set about putting laminate floor in the dining room, I thought
I
should investigate why walking across part of it caused a nearby coffee
table to wobble to such an extent that the cordless phone on it became
disconnected and reconnected to the charger thereby producing a 'beep'.

The hatch cut in the chipboard reveals a dwarf-wall with a piece of
damp-proof course on top of it, and a gap of about 3 to 5mm between the
dpc
and the joists.

It looks like wedges might be an answer to bridging the gap, but would
they
stay in place?

Any other suggestions please?

Ian




Slate is excellent as John Rumm says. Otherwise pieces of wood or ply. If
not an exact fit I use pieces of DPC cut from a roll to adjust.

I advise against just whacking in as much material as you can find until
you
it can go no further. You might find that you have then raised the joist
further than it should go and have new gaps elsewhere to fill.


================
If you haven't got any slate handy you can use strips of lead which can be
folded to size. Use a small 'pre-load' as suggested by other posters before
inserting the lead which is slightly compressible.

Cic.

"Ian Smeaton" wrote in message


hatch cut in the chipboard reveals a dwarf-wall with a piece of
damp-proof course on top of it, and a gap of about 3 to 5mm between
the dpc and the joists.

It would apear that the majority of posts on this group lately are not
seriously concerned with diy.

Anyway to business:

No-one has sugested why the wall no longer supports the floor.

Is there a chance you have missed the obvious and that the packing that
was supporting it has fallen off the wall?

Put a strip of exterior grade 1/4 ply on top of the wall. Put it on a
layer of damp proofing. Make it wide enough to put a few screws up into
the floor or screw down through the floor into the ply.



--
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