As above, really. It's a fan oven, electric. Door seal is obviously
in need of repair (the bottom bit is hanging loose, ends are clearly
supposed to meet but don't, there's a bit missing) and I have a
replacement from the manufacturer.

I'm pretty sure they're meant to be glued as well as the little metal
bits at each corner poked into the oven 'chassis' - the glue clearly
needs to be able to withstand high temps reached during cooking, too.

Anyone offer suggestions of what I should be looking for? Will have a
scout round the next DIY place I visit, but is it a specific type of
glue for doing this, or some generic glue/something used in some other
glueing-in-high-temps application?

Cheers in advance,

Velvet

PS. Pleased with DIY attempts thus far on new house. Cat flap looks
professionally done, so chuffed with that. Ditto with bath re-seal,
though have spotted one tiny pinhole in the sealant which needs
sorting. Have discovered drilling into plaster/brick is damn sight
more difficult than into plasterboard (brick is fine, it's the plaster
on top of the brick that's the bit I'm having problems with - it's
crumbly and am ending up with holes several sizes bigger in said
plaster than the drill bit being used, just cos of the crumbling).

On 10 Aug 2005 12:07:58 -0700, "Velvet" wrote:

As above, really. It's a fan oven, electric. Door seal is obviously
in need of repair (the bottom bit is hanging loose, ends are clearly
supposed to meet but don't, there's a bit missing) and I have a
replacement from the manufacturer.

I'm pretty sure they're meant to be glued as well as the little metal
bits at each corner poked into the oven 'chassis' - the glue clearly
needs to be able to withstand high temps reached during cooking, too.

Anyone offer suggestions of what I should be looking for? Will have a
scout round the next DIY place I visit, but is it a specific type of
glue for doing this, or some generic glue/something used in some other
glueing-in-high-temps application?

Cheers in advance,

Velvet

PS. Pleased with DIY attempts thus far on new house. Cat flap looks
professionally done, so chuffed with that. Ditto with bath re-seal,
though have spotted one tiny pinhole in the sealant which needs
sorting. Have discovered drilling into plaster/brick is damn sight
more difficult than into plasterboard (brick is fine, it's the plaster
on top of the brick that's the bit I'm having problems with - it's
crumbly and am ending up with holes several sizes bigger in said
plaster than the drill bit being used, just cos of the crumbling).

You need a special glue, from a domestic repair suppliers, or from a
google search.

Rick

Velvet wrote:
it's
crumbly and am ending up with holes several sizes bigger in said
plaster than the drill bit being used, just cos of the crumbling).

Also have you considered that to drill into brickwork you will need to
use a masonry bit, and these drill bigger holes than their shanks? Have
done this myself placed the shank of the bit next to the rawlplug and
decided that is the right size of bit only to have the hole too big when
it is drilled.

www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk/drill.jpg

Please excuse really poor drawing/draughting and very loose description
of pieces of a bit (I was in a hurry).




--
yours S

Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione

In article . com,
"Velvet" says...
Have discovered drilling into plaster/brick is damn sight
more difficult than into plasterboard (brick is fine, it's the plaster
on top of the brick that's the bit I'm having problems with - it's
crumbly and am ending up with holes several sizes bigger in said
plaster than the drill bit being used, just cos of the crumbling).

Fortunately whatever you're fixing with the screws will usually cover
the Polyfilla that you use to repair the plaster, and you end up with
a stronger fixing.

On 10 Aug 2005 12:07:58 -0700, "Velvet" wrote:

As above, really. It's a fan oven, electric. Door seal is obviously
in need of repair (the bottom bit is hanging loose, ends are clearly
supposed to meet but don't, there's a bit missing) and I have a
replacement from the manufacturer.

I'm pretty sure they're meant to be glued as well as the little metal
bits at each corner poked into the oven 'chassis' - the glue clearly
needs to be able to withstand high temps reached during cooking, too.

Anyone offer suggestions of what I should be looking for? Will have a
scout round the next DIY place I visit, but is it a specific type of
glue for doing this, or some generic glue/something used in some other
glueing-in-high-temps application?

Cheers in advance,

Velvet

Hi,

Try asking the manufacturer what's best.

Also have a look for fire rope glue/adhesive, eg:

https://vault1.secured-url.com/chimney/acatalog/Index_Page_Fire_Rope___Rope_Adhesives_42.html

A local stove/fireplace supplier should be able to get hold of it.

There is also high temperature silicone, but I'm not sure how strong
it is at high temps, maybe someone can comment on this.

cheers,
Pete.

Ah, this could explain it, though I was following the directions on the
rawlplug (which were for brick) - and using the specified size of
masonry bit.

I've also been told to put some welly behind it to get it through the
plaster as fast as possible and into the brick, so it doesn't dislodge
more plaster than needed. Not tried that one yet...

In article . com,
"Velvet" says...
Ah, this could explain it, though I was following the directions on the
rawlplug (which were for brick) - and using the specified size of
masonry bit.

I've also been told to put some welly behind it to get it through the
plaster as fast as possible and into the brick, so it doesn't dislodge
more plaster than needed. Not tried that one yet...


It's mainly the drill wandering over the hard brick surface
underneath that causes major disruption to the plaster - if you go
through the plaster as hard as you can then you hopefully make a dent
in the brick that stops the drill from wandering.

Velvet wrote:

I've also been told to put some welly behind it to get it through
the plaster as fast as possible and into the brick, so it doesn't
dislodge more plaster than needed. Not tried that one yet...

No! Exactly the opposite, IME......

Drill through the plaster on slow, non-hammer setting and only then 'open up
the throttle' when you hit brick.