Just wondering how viable it is to take up a screed floor then fix
battens so I can fit floorboards.
The timber floor in my living room needs redoing. I don't fancy a
floating floor on top of the existing. There is however an extention
which is concrete.
I have been told in theory I should be able to break up the screed and
screw battens to the slab being careful not to penetrate the dpc but
how thick is the screed and the slab usually.

Kevin

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

Just wondering how viable it is to take up a screed floor then fix
battens so I can fit floorboards.
The timber floor in my living room needs redoing. I don't fancy a
floating floor on top of the existing. There is however an extention
which is concrete.
I have been told in theory I should be able to break up the screed and
screw battens to the slab being careful not to penetrate the dpc but
how thick is the screed and the slab usually.

Kevin

Why not excavate a bit in a corner, and find out? You'll probably find that
the screed is a couple of inches thick - and the slab 4-6 inches. If you're
*very* unlucky, the DPC membrane will be between the slab and screed rather
than under the slab!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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wrote in message
ups.com...
Just wondering how viable it is to take up a screed floor then fix
battens so I can fit floorboards.
The timber floor in my living room needs redoing. I don't fancy a
floating floor on top of the existing. There is however an extention
which is concrete.
I have been told in theory I should be able to break up the screed and
screw battens to the slab being careful not to penetrate the dpc but
how thick is the screed and the slab usually.

Kevin

The floor screeds that our company lay for several major housebuilders are
from 50mm up to and above 150mm - depending upon preceding trades and the
carpenter being bothered to set his stairs & door linings out properly, the
only way you will find out the depth is by following set squares advice and
dig up a corner. You will probably find out that the dpm is between the
slab/pot & beam and the screed as is the usual method.
Good luck,

Franko.

There is a bit that is breaking up next to the existing wooden floor,
in line with the original window opening so I could excavate here as
whatever I do this bit needs repairing but I will need to ensure that I
excavate above the slab and not the original wall.

Kevin

Kevin wrote:
There is a bit that is breaking up next to the existing wooden floor,
in line with the original window opening so I could excavate here as
whatever I do this bit needs repairing but I will need to ensure that I
excavate above the slab and not the original wall.

Drilling just a small hole will tell you almost everything, from the
feel of it and from the look of the powder on the bit.


--
Ian White

"Set Square" wrote in message
...

snip

If you're
*very* unlucky, the DPC membrane will be between the slab and screed
rather
than under the slab!

Another poster has suggested that having the DPM membrane above the main
slab but below the screed is "normal" and that's what's been specified when
I had my plans drawn up. Why would that be unlucky?

Paul
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Paul Andrews wrote:

"Set Square" wrote in message
...

snip

If you're
*very* unlucky, the DPC membrane will be between the slab and screed
rather than under the slab!

Another poster has suggested that having the DPM membrane above the
main slab but below the screed is "normal" and that's what's been
specified when I had my plans drawn up. Why would that be unlucky?

Paul

It would be unlucky for the OP because he wanted to remove the screed and
screw some battens to the slab. He wouldn't be able to do that without
penetrating the membrane.

When my extension was built 3 years ago, that was done with the membrane at
the bottom (on top of a sand blind) then the slab, then a slab of rigid foam
insulation, and finally the screed on top.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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