We're going to lay a secondary floor on top of the floorboards on the
ground floor of our victorian house. We've reviewed options for
sanding (boards too knackered), lifting and replacing etc and decided
on a secondary solid wood tongue and groove, 200mm wide boards and 20mm
thick, sanded but unfinished (we plan to oil). We'll be hidden-nailing
the boards down.

However, what we haven't been able to get clear guidance on is what we
need to do to prepare the existing floor. We've been told
- no need to lay anything in between if we're laying at 90 degrees but
lay plywood first if in the same direction as existing boards
- no need to lay anything in between either way
- use some sort of underlay.

What's the view here?

wrote:
I forgot to add:
We're looking at http://www.milleniumhardwoods.co.uk/. Does anyone
have any other recommended suppliers?
Their fitting instructions also advise using a 'a non-polythene vapour
barrier' in the situation we have. However, won't nailing through this
to lay the floor reduce its effectiveness?
Finally, if laying on top of an existing floor over joists (as we are)
they advise the use of a

"b33k34" wrote in message
ups.com

Finally, if laying on top of an existing floor over joists (as we are)
they advise the use of a

Careful how much a you use


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wrote in message
oups.com...
We're going to lay a secondary floor on top of the floorboards on the
ground floor of our victorian house. We've reviewed options for
sanding (boards too knackered), lifting and replacing etc and decided
on a secondary solid wood tongue and groove, 200mm wide boards and 20mm
thick, sanded but unfinished (we plan to oil). We'll be hidden-nailing
the boards down.

However, what we haven't been able to get clear guidance on is what we
need to do to prepare the existing floor. We've been told
- no need to lay anything in between if we're laying at 90 degrees but
lay plywood first if in the same direction as existing boards
- no need to lay anything in between either way
- use some sort of underlay.

What's the view here?

I installed a similar type of floor but in my case it was onto asphalt.
How about using a floating floor method (i.e. no nails). The timber is
cushioned on a sticky foam backing which evens out some of the imperfections
in the existing floor and gives insulation and stops reduces noise.
In my case I used antiqued board (i.e. bugged up with the odd bangs etc).
Have a look at
http://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/fl...ing_floor.html

We recently fitted a similar oiled solid oak product on top of an
exsiting floor in our front room.

By putting down a flat ply-wood base over the top of the exisiting
flooring it provides a level which you can then easily secret nail or
glue down the solid wood flooring to.

Try - http://www.woodfloors2u.co.uk/

They are a UK based site

We bought our solid flooring through them and it arrived within a few
days with free delivery

Bill