Hi all,

I've come to this group for a bit of advice after the excellent tip I
tried regarding blown plaster and filling the wall with pva - worked a
treat!!!

Anyway, the question. Taperboard has I tapered edge which I assume you
butt up to another tapered edge to form a V which you tape and fill.

That's great, but when you've doing a large area such as a ceiling,
you'll end up with square edge to square edge on the other sides...

Or have I missed something?

I'm interested because I want to overboard a scabby ceiling and I don't
want to pay a plasterer.

Any advice welcome.

Dave

taperboard is not used on ceilings ,only on walls so as to give a quick tape
and joint finish,square edge used on ceilings for either a tape and artex
finish or skimmed complete

Alex wrote:
taperboard is not used on ceilings ,only on walls so as to give a
quick tape and joint finish,square edge used on ceilings for either a
tape and artex finish or skimmed complete

Almost right.

Tapered edges is for cielings and walls and was made like this for corner
work, i.e taper to taper edges at the corner of each wall and cieling hence
only one side tapered.

Thanks for the replies.

I've been misinformed. I was underthe impression you taped the V
,filled, sanded and could paint the white as it was.

I've come to this group for a bit of advice after the excellent tip I
tried regarding blown plaster and filling the wall with pva - worked a
treat!!!

Anyway, the question. Taperboard has I tapered edge which I assume you
butt up to another tapered edge to form a V which you tape and fill.

That's great, but when you've doing a large area such as a ceiling,
you'll end up with square edge to square edge on the other sides...

Or have I missed something?

I'm interested because I want to overboard a scabby ceiling and I don't
want to pay a plasterer.

Any advice welcome.

Dave

Dave,
Tapered edge plasterboard is used on both walls & ceilings, the tapered
edges are to hide the joints on a flat section after either skimming with
plaster or taping & jointing. They have no significance with either internal
or external corners.
When taping & jointing a large ceiling the tapered joints are easy to lose
but you need to take a bit more care in feathering out the shorter cross
joints as these are more difficult to hide, there will always be a slight
bump due to the thickness of the taping material but if you give these cross
joints a wider final coat and careful sanding there won't be a problem.
If you are skimming with plaster there will not be a problem as the whole
ceiling or wall is given a coat whic evens out any discrepency.
Finally, make sure you stagger the cross joints across different ceiling
timbers as per my dodgy diagram below as this is much easier to create a
flat finish and lessens the appearance of one big joint that sticks out like
a sore thumb.
Good luck,
Franko.
--------------------------- = long joint
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On 31 Jul 2005 03:33:05 -0700, wrote:

Thanks for the replies.

I've been misinformed. I was underthe impression you taped the V
,filled, sanded and could paint the white as it was.

You were'nt missinformed !

thanks again, all.

I spoke to the guy at work who put me onto taperboard. He did indeed
stagger the boards (which I was always going to do). But he said he
actually sanded by hand a small taper on the shorter edges!!!

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks again, all.

I spoke to the guy at work who put me onto taperboard. He did indeed
stagger the boards (which I was always going to do). But he said he
actually sanded by hand a small taper on the shorter edges!!!

Sounds ridiculous to me, it must take ages and the paper is on the face of
the plasterboard for a reason - to give a surface ready to take decoration &
to give strength to the otherwise very soft gypsum core.
Remember that the board end will finish up in the centre of a joist and if
you sand the paper of the ends of the boards you will end up with a crappy,
soft fixing and no end of trouble.
I'm not trying to be cocky but I have been a dryliner for about 20 years and
have never seen anyone ever sand new tapers into the end of a board. Please,
please don't as you'll be asking for trouble.
Franko.

On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 17:20:01 +0000 (UTC), "Franko"
wrote:


wrote in message
roups.com...
thanks again, all.

I spoke to the guy at work who put me onto taperboard. He did indeed
stagger the boards (which I was always going to do). But he said he
actually sanded by hand a small taper on the shorter edges!!!

Sounds ridiculous to me, it must take ages and the paper is on the face of
the plasterboard for a reason - to give a surface ready to take decoration &
to give strength to the otherwise very soft gypsum core.
Remember that the board end will finish up in the centre of a joist and if
you sand the paper of the ends of the boards you will end up with a crappy,
soft fixing and no end of trouble.
I'm not trying to be cocky but I have been a dryliner for about 20 years and
have never seen anyone ever sand new tapers into the end of a board. Please,
please don't as you'll be asking for trouble.
Franko.


Franko,

Assuming where the non taper eges of two boards join is on the same
joist is it essential to use tape? I Mean could you leave a gap of say
1/2 inch and fill in that using a few layers, or would that lead to
cracks?

M

Franko,

Assuming where the non taper eges of two boards join is on the same
joist is it essential to use tape? I Mean could you leave a gap of say
1/2 inch and fill in that using a few layers, or would that lead to
cracks?

M

Madmax,

All joints should be taped, either using fibatape or preferably paper joint
tape and then coated with a joint filler/joint cement. Do not leave gaps and
try to fill as this WILL crack.

Franko.

I've given up on the taperboard idea. If i'm gonna end up with edges (I
also think sanding is a bad idea) then I might as well just get normal
board and tape.

I've dry lined before and then just had someone in to skim, I was just
looking for a way not to use a plasterer. I think I'll have a crack at
the skim on some waste - if worst comes to worst I pay for the skim....