Can anyone help please. I have had lots of emails about the dpc cavity
tray. The only thing is when I remortar the joints on the horizontal cuts
between the bricks, do I just fill it with mortar? or should I pack the
joint in places with slate or similar as well? The cuts will be 2 metres
in places.
Many thanks for help.
Neil

Neil wrote:
Can anyone help please. I have had lots of emails about the dpc cavity
tray. The only thing is when I remortar the joints on the horizontal cuts
between the bricks, do I just fill it with mortar? or should I pack the
joint in places with slate or similar as well? The cuts will be 2 metres
in places.
Many thanks for help.
Neil



Has anyone got a clue as to what this is about ? I have got a vauge
picture but what's the goal?

Alex

Sorry for not being clear Alex. I have been told by building inspector that
I have to put a Cavity Tray in the wall above the tiles of my sons lean to
extension(apparently because the outside wall will now become an inside
wall) He suggests using 9 inch wide DPC sliding it through a removed mortar
joint. I was just unsure how to fill in the joint after to make it "safe"
as it will be full length of wall. Do fill with just mortar or pack the
joint as well in places.
Regards
Neil
"AlexW" wrote in message
...
Neil wrote:
Can anyone help please. I have had lots of emails about the dpc cavity
tray. The only thing is when I remortar the joints on the horizontal
cuts
between the bricks, do I just fill it with mortar? or should I pack the
joint in places with slate or similar as well? The cuts will be 2
metres
in places.
Many thanks for help.
Neil

Has anyone got a clue as to what this is about ? I have got a vauge
picture but what's the goal?

Alex

Neil wrote:

Sorry for not being clear Alex. I have been told by building inspector that
I have to put a Cavity Tray in the wall above the tiles of my sons lean to
extension(apparently because the outside wall will now become an inside
wall) He suggests using 9 inch wide DPC sliding it through a removed mortar
joint. I was just unsure how to fill in the joint after to make it "safe"

How are you going to remove a whole mortar joint without the bricks
above it simply falling and closing the gap? Or are you expecting to do
it in short sections. In which case how do you install a continous DPC?

as it will be full length of wall. Do fill with just mortar or pack the
joint as well in places.

Well if mortar was good enought in the first place it ought to still be.

Is there not some other way of closing the access to the cavity?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

I will be doing 4 bricks at a time, and put DPC through 3. Never done
anything like this so hoping someone had. Hopefully it will work. That's
why I wondered if I should pack in places with slate to make safe until
mortar dried. Anyway sunshine tomorrow so I will give it a go.

Cheers Neil
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Neil wrote:

Sorry for not being clear Alex. I have been told by building inspector
that I have to put a Cavity Tray in the wall above the tiles of my sons
lean to extension(apparently because the outside wall will now become an
inside wall) He suggests using 9 inch wide DPC sliding it through a
removed mortar joint. I was just unsure how to fill in the joint after
to make it "safe"

How are you going to remove a whole mortar joint without the bricks above
it simply falling and closing the gap? Or are you expecting to do it in
short sections. In which case how do you install a continous DPC?

as it will be full length of wall. Do fill with just mortar or pack the
joint as well in places.

Well if mortar was good enought in the first place it ought to still be.

Is there not some other way of closing the access to the cavity?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article , Neil
wrote:


I will be doing 4 bricks at a time, and put DPC through 3.

Well make sure that you don't do it upside down. Remember to trim too.

--
AJL

** Would you like to learn to post effectively? **
** http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post **

Neil wrote:
I will be doing 4 bricks at a time, and put DPC through 3. Never done
anything like this so hoping someone had. Hopefully it will work. That's
why I wondered if I should pack in places with slate to make safe until
mortar dried. Anyway sunshine tomorrow so I will give it a go.

Cheers Neil
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

Neil wrote:


Sorry for not being clear Alex. I have been told by building inspector
that I have to put a Cavity Tray in the wall above the tiles of my sons
lean to extension(apparently because the outside wall will now become an
inside wall) He suggests using 9 inch wide DPC sliding it through a
removed mortar joint. I was just unsure how to fill in the joint after
to make it "safe"

How are you going to remove a whole mortar joint without the bricks above
it simply falling and closing the gap? Or are you expecting to do it in
short sections. In which case how do you install a continous DPC?


as it will be full length of wall. Do fill with just mortar or pack the
joint as well in places.

Well if mortar was good enought in the first place it ought to still be.

Is there not some other way of closing the access to the cavity?



Dunno.

I'd challenge the BCO on the reasoning behind this. I dont understand
why this would be required on a lean to ... get him to quote chapter and
verse.

My builder mate has some things to say about a BCO or two ...

Alex.

IIRC it's one of the requirements in the Building Regs (They're online
- google for them including the term "odpm"). From memory (and
assuming I understand the physical arrangement of Neil's building
correctly) the logic is that it stops rain penetrating down the
upstairs outside wall and into the inside below IYSWIM. Sort of rising
damp but the other way up.

Neil, something you said worried me a bit, I hope I'm not too late. I
think you really need to allow the new mortar to set properly in each
short section before you start on the next. I know it will make the
elapsed time for the job much longer but I can't see how the wall will
stay up otherwise! I'll let others here with more knowledge and
experience than me define "set" in this context, I find that mortar is
still soft a day or so later and only really hardens properly over a
week or so.

Thanks Calvin/Alex.
I have just put my overalls on ready for starting. Someone else emailed
about setting so I am doing it over a few days. The slope of the roof will
be okay as only in sections of 3 horizontal bricks at a time. I will add a
reply to night to let you know how I have got on.
Cheers
Neil
"Calvin" wrote in message
ups.com...
IIRC it's one of the requirements in the Building Regs (They're online
- google for them including the term "odpm"). From memory (and
assuming I understand the physical arrangement of Neil's building
correctly) the logic is that it stops rain penetrating down the
upstairs outside wall and into the inside below IYSWIM. Sort of rising
damp but the other way up.

Neil, something you said worried me a bit, I hope I'm not too late. I
think you really need to allow the new mortar to set properly in each
short section before you start on the next. I know it will make the
elapsed time for the job much longer but I can't see how the wall will
stay up otherwise! I'll let others here with more knowledge and
experience than me define "set" in this context, I find that mortar is
still soft a day or so later and only really hardens properly over a
week or so.

Calvin wrote:
IIRC it's one of the requirements in the Building Regs (They're online
- google for them including the term "odpm"). From memory (and
assuming I understand the physical arrangement of Neil's building
correctly) the logic is that it stops rain penetrating down the
upstairs outside wall and into the inside below IYSWIM. Sort of rising
damp but the other way up.

Neil, something you said worried me a bit, I hope I'm not too late. I
think you really need to allow the new mortar to set properly in each
short section before you start on the next. I know it will make the
elapsed time for the job much longer but I can't see how the wall will
stay up otherwise! I'll let others here with more knowledge and
experience than me define "set" in this context, I find that mortar is
still soft a day or so later and only really hardens properly over a
week or so.


What I still don't get is: is this inserting DPC or a cavity tray. If
the latter I can't understand how this would be done by chasing mortar
sectionally from the front if the tray is to bridge and seal the cavity.

If its just DPC then I get it.

I have not looked on ODPM for this, but regs apart I don't get why you
would need to put a cavity tray in where you are essentially chasing out
some mortar to put a flashing in above the tiles ??? Have I got the
right mental picture? Surely once sealed this is just as good as the
original mortar?

Alex.

Neil wrote:

I have just put my overalls on ready for starting. Someone else emailed
about setting so I am doing it over a few days. The slope of the roof will
be okay as only in sections of 3 horizontal bricks at a time. I will add a
reply to night to let you know how I have got on.

If you are being a bit crafty you could probably do a section, leave a
gap, another section, leave a gap etc. Then once those have set go do
the gaps mext time!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Useful link:
http://www.lpg-portable-heaters.co.u...avity_tray.htm
Simon.

Also, you can often treat the wall above the wall-plate with a
water-proofer.
That may satisfy the BCO.
Simon.

Thanks for everyone for ideas and help. The job went a lot better than I
thought. The only snag was my grinder is 9inch and would not go all the way
through mortar joint. I tried "bolster" on last bit but disturbed brick, so
hired a larger 12 inch grinder for rest of joints. I think I may use water
proofer as added protection.
Regards
Neil
wrote in message
ups.com...
Also, you can often treat the wall above the wall-plate with a
water-proofer.
That may satisfy the BCO.
Simon.

AlexW wrote:


snip-ramblings/



Aha ... have it from link in other part of thread.

Alex.

In article , Neil
wrote:

Thanks for everyone for ideas and help.

Here's another advice source:

http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post

--
AJL

Here's another advice source:

http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post
AJL


Thanks, I didn't know posting was so involved, I will try to improve my
replies etc.
Neil