I've got one of these which is fitted with the FL 1.10 chassis. The
cabinet is the posh wood one. ;-)

It's got what I assume is a power supply fault as it goes to standby, but
no further. However, I can't get the chassis out. The WS manual says to
remove the screw behind the flip down panel on the front (for games
machines, etc) but there ain't one. Pushing the clips either side of the
PCB doesn't release it so there must be something else holding it. There
is a slot just below the IR receiver, but doesn't appear to be any form of
catch in there.

--
*The beatings will continue until morale improves *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

*The beatings will continue until morale improves *

Yep, give the set a beating. Eventually the board will loosen itself and
your morale will feel quite good. Sometimes plastics warp with the heat
and dust settles gluing things in. No coiled/tied up cabling to controls
in the way? Or a solder joint stuck in a runner?

Sure there is not a more specific service sheet related to that model
other than the general chassis manual? Posting an exact model number
might folks help in searching google (sci.electronics.repair) and
multitudes of on-line servicing boards out there?

--
Adrian C

On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 16:25:00 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I can't get the chassis out.

Is there any movement? My normal trick in these situations is move the
recalcitrant board in all directions and try and work out the point(s)
around which it is moving, these are then the "hidden" fixings.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

In article ,
Adrian C wrote:
Sure there is not a more specific service sheet related to that model
other than the general chassis manual? Posting an exact model number
might folks help in searching google (sci.electronics.repair) and
multitudes of on-line servicing boards out there?

I've got the Philips service manual, supplied against the chassis and
serial number. That's the only one they could supply. It covers all sorts
of variations - Secam for example. But the mechanical instructions for
getting at things are limited. Even those for removing the back were wrong.

--
*Two wrongs are only the beginning *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article om,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
Is there any movement? My normal trick in these situations is move the
recalcitrant board in all directions and try and work out the point(s)
around which it is moving, these are then the "hidden" fixings.

Yes - it definitely seems fixed at the front of the chassis in some way -
but not by a screw as the manual says. It says it's under the flip down
flap which conceals the 'game' a/v input and headphone socket, but it's
not. There is a printed thin plastic plate with the legends for the
sockets, etc, but that appears firmly glued in place - and if there was a
screw behind it I'd expect to feel the hole through it

--
*I went to school to become a wit, only got halfway through.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 23:48:09 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

There is a printed thin plastic plate with the legends for the
sockets, etc, but that appears firmly glued in place - and if there
was a screw behind it I'd expect to feel the hole through it

Normally can with metal foil ones, not so sure about plastic. Only one
way to find out...

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail