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Default Lofts: insulating underside of roof?

70s bungalow.
I am currently topping up the insulation on the loft floor, putting a
new layer over the manky old stuff.

The Wickes leaflet also recommends insulating the underside of the
roof, by use of polystyrene blocks in between the roof timbers. They
also sell aluminium foil stuff for the same job. A side effect is that
it will also cut down on dust blown into the loft.

Is this overkill for a loft which is just used for storage purposes.
All pipes etc. are lagged and it seemed warm enough when I was up there
last evening!

Bruce

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Mike
 
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wrote in message
ups.com...
70s bungalow.
I am currently topping up the insulation on the loft floor, putting a
new layer over the manky old stuff.

The Wickes leaflet also recommends insulating the underside of the
roof, by use of polystyrene blocks in between the roof timbers. They
also sell aluminium foil stuff for the same job. A side effect is that
it will also cut down on dust blown into the loft.

Is this overkill for a loft which is just used for storage purposes.
All pipes etc. are lagged and it seemed warm enough when I was up there
last evening!


But how cold is it in winter. Doubt if you can have too much insulation so
I'd do it but remember you need to leave 50mm airgap above the insulating
blocks.


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keith_765
 
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"Mike" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
ups.com...

Cut
But how cold is it in winter. Doubt if you can have too much insulation

so
I'd do it but remember you need to leave 50mm airgap above the insulating
blocks.

What's the point of leaving a 50mm gap between felt underlay and insulation,
unless you introduce an air flow vent at eaves and ridge.
8" or 200 of insulation quite adequate.


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Mike
 
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"keith_765" wrote in message
...
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But how cold is it in winter. Doubt if you can have too much insulation

so
I'd do it but remember you need to leave 50mm airgap above the

insulating
blocks.

What's the point of leaving a 50mm gap between felt underlay and

insulation,
unless you introduce an air flow vent at eaves and ridge.


It's a 70s bungalow so it most probably has air flow at the eaves. You need
to either open the ridge or bridge it to allow the airflow to pass through.



8" or 200 of insulation quite adequate.


Assuming you mean fibre or Rockwool, that doesn't even meet the current
building regs, let alone actually make a real attempt to save energy. 265mm
is needed so regard 300 as a min.





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Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk
 
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Mike wrote:
Assuming you mean fibre or Rockwool, that doesn't even meet the current
building regs, let alone actually make a real attempt to save energy. 265mm
is needed so regard 300 as a min.


Surely the gains of going from 200 to 300 mm of rockwoolor whatever
would be pretty insignificant compared to heat loss through walls and
windows in a 70's construction house?

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The Wickes leaflet also recommends insulating the underside of the
roof, by use of polystyrene blocks in between the roof timbers. They
also sell aluminium foil stuff for the same job.


Wickes charge =A313 for a roll of aluminium foil insulation to staple
onto the underside of the roof. At those prices, it would cost quite a
bit to cover the whole roof...probably more than I would save on
heating.

Bruce

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Doctor Evil
 
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"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
. uk...
Mike wrote:
Assuming you mean fibre or Rockwool, that doesn't even meet the current
building regs, let alone actually make a real attempt to save energy.

265mm
is needed so regard 300 as a min.


Surely the gains of going from 200 to 300 mm of rockwoolor whatever
would be pretty insignificant compared to heat loss through walls and
windows in a 70's construction house?


In a bungalow, the biggest heat loss is via the ceilings as that is the
largest area. it is worth making the ceiling air-tight, sealing around pipes
and ceiling roses, and filling up to 400mm of rockwool. It will keep the
house warm and cool.


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Mike
 
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"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
. uk...
Mike wrote:
Assuming you mean fibre or Rockwool, that doesn't even meet the current
building regs, let alone actually make a real attempt to save energy.

265mm
is needed so regard 300 as a min.


Surely the gains of going from 200 to 300 mm of rockwoolor whatever
would be pretty insignificant compared to heat loss through walls and
windows in a 70's construction house?


True. But if the latest wheeze from the ODPM comes to fruit you will have
to bring the house's insulation up to scratch before you sell it so unless
there isn't a cavity get this filled with insulation as well. And if you
have a hollow underfloor then this will beed to be dealt with as well.




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Mike
 
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wrote in message
oups.com...

The Wickes leaflet also recommends insulating the underside of the
roof, by use of polystyrene blocks in between the roof timbers. They
also sell aluminium foil stuff for the same job.


Wickes charge £13 for a roll of aluminium foil insulation to staple
onto the underside of the roof. At those prices, it would cost quite a
bit to cover the whole roof...probably more than I would save on
heating.



Not sure of the size but £100 should see the average house roof done.
Remember it isn't just the insulation but the air trapped below it which
also insulates so you should see sizeable reductions in heat loss. Of
course the rest of the house needs to be brought up to scratch otherwise the
heat will find another route out but for insulation is generally one of the
few home improvements that really do pay back quickly.




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Andy Hall
 
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:46:09 +0100, "Doctor Evil"
wrote:


"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
.uk...
Mike wrote:
Assuming you mean fibre or Rockwool, that doesn't even meet the current
building regs, let alone actually make a real attempt to save energy.

265mm
is needed so regard 300 as a min.


Surely the gains of going from 200 to 300 mm of rockwoolor whatever
would be pretty insignificant compared to heat loss through walls and
windows in a 70's construction house?


In a bungalow, the biggest heat loss is via the ceilings as that is the
largest area. it is worth making the ceiling air-tight, sealing around pipes
and ceiling roses, and filling up to 400mm of rockwool. It will keep the
house warm and cool.


Good grief. It was 300mm last week. Have you bought shares in
Pilkington or Rockwool or something?

As anybody with a knowledge of basic physics knows, the difference
between 200 and 400mm of insulation in a roof is negligible in
comparison with heat transmission through the walls, even in a
bungalow.



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Mike
 
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:46:09 +0100, "Doctor Evil"
wrote:


"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
.uk...
Mike wrote:
Assuming you mean fibre or Rockwool, that doesn't even meet the

current
building regs, let alone actually make a real attempt to save energy.

265mm
is needed so regard 300 as a min.

Surely the gains of going from 200 to 300 mm of rockwoolor whatever
would be pretty insignificant compared to heat loss through walls and
windows in a 70's construction house?


In a bungalow, the biggest heat loss is via the ceilings as that is the
largest area. it is worth making the ceiling air-tight, sealing around

pipes
and ceiling roses, and filling up to 400mm of rockwool. It will keep the
house warm and cool.


Good grief. It was 300mm last week. Have you bought shares in
Pilkington or Rockwool or something?

As anybody with a knowledge of basic physics knows, the difference
between 200 and 400mm of insulation in a roof is negligible in
comparison with heat transmission through the walls, even in a
bungalow.


That rather depends on the insulation in the walls. If it's 100mm of foam
the roof definitely dominates, especially in a bungalow. But if the cavity
is empty - get it filled !


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Andy Hall
 
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 22:20:50 +0100, "Mike" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:46:09 +0100, "Doctor Evil"
wrote:


"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
.uk...
Mike wrote:
Assuming you mean fibre or Rockwool, that doesn't even meet the

current
building regs, let alone actually make a real attempt to save energy.
265mm
is needed so regard 300 as a min.

Surely the gains of going from 200 to 300 mm of rockwoolor whatever
would be pretty insignificant compared to heat loss through walls and
windows in a 70's construction house?

In a bungalow, the biggest heat loss is via the ceilings as that is the
largest area. it is worth making the ceiling air-tight, sealing around

pipes
and ceiling roses, and filling up to 400mm of rockwool. It will keep the
house warm and cool.


Good grief. It was 300mm last week. Have you bought shares in
Pilkington or Rockwool or something?

As anybody with a knowledge of basic physics knows, the difference
between 200 and 400mm of insulation in a roof is negligible in
comparison with heat transmission through the walls, even in a
bungalow.


That rather depends on the insulation in the walls. If it's 100mm of foam
the roof definitely dominates, especially in a bungalow. But if the cavity
is empty - get it filled !



100mm of foam in the walls of a 70s house is not very likely. If
there is no insulation in the walls as is quite likely, then the walls
certainly dominate in comparison with the difference between 200mm and
400mm of insulation in the roof.

Depending on the dimensions, the walls may well still dominate even if
they have some insulation.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

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Mike
 
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
100mm of foam in the walls of a 70s house is not very likely.


Not as built but the walls are generally of an easily fillable kind and more
and more are being done so with the available grants.


If
there is no insulation in the walls as is quite likely, then the walls
certainly dominate in comparison with the difference between 200mm and
400mm of insulation in the roof.


Agreed.
But under the proposed ODPM scheme the walls would usually have to be filled
before either the property was sold or other improvements made anyway.


Depending on the dimensions, the walls may well still dominate even if
they have some insulation.


Not for a bungalow assuming it has some form of rectangular shape. Of
course if it has large 'wings' then the walls do come more into play and may
dominate.


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