Plasterboarding Stud Wall
 

Just about to start plaster boarding my new stud wall. I have the non
tapered edge plasterboard. Do I just butt the sheets up against each
other and scrim tape over the joints in preperation for skimming?

TIA

Richard

wrote:

Just about to start plaster boarding my new stud wall. I have the non
tapered edge plasterboard. Do I just butt the sheets up against each
other and scrim tape over the joints in preperation for skimming?

Yup...

Most people go for the vertical positioning of the PB since in many
houses it reaches the ceiling. A better way (IMHO) is to do it
horizontally (you position the noggins across the middle to match a
board width from the floor). That way you can stagger the boards top and
bottom which gives a slightly more rigid wall.

You don't have to make the joins a perfect fit, since there is no harm
in the skim getting a little extra "key" into any gaps.

I use the bugal head drywall screws on a 400 x 400mm spacing (assuming
the studs are on 400mm centres that is!). One of the drywall screwdriver
bits (i.e. with the shroud) works well - especially in a magnetic bit
holder. They are quite a shallow screw pitch, so you can spin them in
with the drill on high speed as well I find.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Thanks again! :)

One more thing:

Where I have made the stud wall I had to rip down all the old lath and
plaster from the ceiling where the head plate went and around it. It
was in terrible condition big cracks blown and just waiting to drop on
my head, In fact most of my upstairs is like that. I plan to just
plasterboard over in other rooms after looking like a chimney sweep for
a couple of days!

The problem I have now is that one part of the new stud wall is running
parallel with the ceiling joists. When I come to plasterboard the
ceiling I'm worried that there will be nowhere to screw the
plasterboard edge too, the nearest joist that I can screw to is about
350mm away. Will this provide enought rigidity? (if thats a word)
failing that should I attach a strip of wood to the head plate which I
can screw into through the plasterboard, or could I just leave a gap
around the top when I board the walls which will allow the ceiling
plasterboard to rest on the edge. The run where I have this problem is
not that long, about 4ft.

What to do?

TIA

Cheers

Richard

In article .com,
writes:
wrote:
Just about to start plaster boarding my new stud wall. I have the non
tapered edge plasterboard. Do I just butt the sheets up against each
other and scrim tape over the joints in preperation for skimming?

leave 1/4 - 1/2" gaps, the plaster squishes thru and bonds them
together. Otherwise the joints jhust crack.

If you have any bonding coat plaster, use that to squish
through the gaps. Probably not worth buying it specially
for this though -- finish coat or plaster board plaster
works too, but don't make the gaps too big in that case.
Then scrim tape over before skimming.

BTW, no gaps required where both edges of the ajoining
boards are screwed to the same timber, only where they
are floating across studs.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article .com,
writes:
Thanks again! :)

One more thing:

Where I have made the stud wall I had to rip down all the old lath and
plaster from the ceiling where the head plate went and around it. It
was in terrible condition big cracks blown and just waiting to drop on
my head, In fact most of my upstairs is like that. I plan to just
plasterboard over in other rooms after looking like a chimney sweep for
a couple of days!

The problem I have now is that one part of the new stud wall is running
parallel with the ceiling joists. When I come to plasterboard the
ceiling I'm worried that there will be nowhere to screw the
plasterboard edge too, the nearest joist that I can screw to is about
350mm away. Will this provide enought rigidity? (if thats a word)
failing that should I attach a strip of wood to the head plate which I
can screw into through the plasterboard, or could I just leave a gap
around the top when I board the walls which will allow the ceiling
plasterboard to rest on the edge. The run where I have this problem is
not that long, about 4ft.

What to do?

Normally, you recess some noggins and use them to support an extra
dummy joist bottom. Although no one is going to lean on a ceiling,
it might be difficult to plaster if it is flapping around when you
press the trowel against it.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
wrote:
leave 1/4 - 1/2" gaps, the plaster squishes thru and bonds them
together. Otherwise the joints jhust crack.

Or use the sticky open weave (glass?) tape to tape the joints, which is
equally as good.

.... a.k.a. scrim tape.

The gap allows the boards to be bonded.
The scrim tape stops the plaster falling away if there is
any movement -- you just get a hairline crack which will
be easily filled with paint. It won't bond the boards
together by itself though -- you still have to do that.

--
Andrew Gabriel

wrote:

One more thing:

The problem I have now is that one part of the new stud wall is running
parallel with the ceiling joists. When I come to plasterboard the
ceiling I'm worried that there will be nowhere to screw the
plasterboard edge too, the nearest joist that I can screw to is about
350mm away. Will this provide enought rigidity? (if thats a word)

Just nail/screw a bit of 2x2" to the side of the top rail and then screw
the PB to that.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

I like to do things the hard way........:)

Thanks guys for all your help, made some good progress today. I have
plumbing in place for my extended ensuite and cladded one side of the
stud extension, this DIY lark is a doddle when you know how :)

Gonna have a few beers now and put me feet up for once

Cheers

Richard

wrote in message
oups.com...
Just about to start plaster boarding my new stud wall. I have the non
tapered edge plasterboard. Do I just butt the sheets up against each
other and scrim tape over the joints in preperation for skimming?

I always leave a 1/4" gap and fill with plasterboard adhesive. Never
cracks.

Just about to start plaster boarding my new stud wall. I have the non
tapered edge plasterboard. Do I just butt the sheets up against each
other and scrim tape over the joints in preperation for skimming?

I've often wondered what exactly the term 'dry lining' means, Do you fix
the plasterboard then skim over with a thin coat of plaster or just fix and
fill screw holes/gaps etc?

Dave

In article ,
"David Lang" writes:
Just about to start plaster boarding my new stud wall. I have the non
tapered edge plasterboard. Do I just butt the sheets up against each
other and scrim tape over the joints in preperation for skimming?

I've often wondered what exactly the term 'dry lining' means, Do you fix
the plasterboard then skim over with a thin coat of plaster or just fix and
fill screw holes/gaps etc?

I suspect it originally meant lining a room without using wet trades
(i.e. no plastering). I suspect nowadays, it is also used when you are
intending to skim the plasterboard.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 10:44:30 GMT, "David Lang"
strung together this:

I've often wondered what exactly the term 'dry lining' means, Do you fix
the plasterboard then skim over with a thin coat of plaster or just fix and
fill screw holes/gaps etc?

Dry lining is when you 'glue' sheets of plasterboard to a brick\block
wall and skim over it rather than the other methiod of wet plastering
which is to a apply a bonding coat of some sort and then skim over
that.

Dry lining is a lot cheaper, quicker and easier than the traditional
wet plastering method for all trades involved.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject