The std 10kg gypsum joint filler bags are too big for small jobs and with
such a short shelf life are expensive.

Anyone know where I can get powdered or ready mix something that will do the
the usual taped system job - properly

I only need to make about 4m of join.

Oh and if I join dryline to normal browning & finish on brick, do I attempt
to tape those joints or just 2 coat up to it?

TIA

--
Mike W

"VisionSet" wrote in message
...
The std 10kg gypsum joint filler bags are too big for small jobs and with
such a short shelf life are expensive.

Anyone know where I can get powdered or ready mix something that will do
the
the usual taped system job - properly

A small box of Poly-something will do it. Not sure which one is best but a
quick read at B&Q should help



Oh and if I join dryline to normal browning & finish on brick, do I
attempt
to tape those joints or just 2 coat up to it?

Key here is to stop the dryline moving wrt the brick. Even the slightest
thermal expansion difference will give a hairline crack. Once that is
solved (bolting the battens to the brick is one option) then any old plaster
finish should be fine.

In article ,
"VisionSet" writes:
The std 10kg gypsum joint filler bags are too big for small jobs and with
such a short shelf life are expensive.

Anyone know where I can get powdered or ready mix something that will do the
the usual taped system job - properly

Not sure what gypsum joint filler is, but a 25kg bag of finish coat
plaster is only around £4. If you keep it in a cool dry place, it
should last for a couple of years for small jobs like this. (It will
set faster as it gets older, but that's an advantage for small jobs.)

I only need to make about 4m of join.

Oh and if I join dryline to normal browning & finish on brick, do I attempt
to tape those joints or just 2 coat up to it?

If the wall is already skimmed, you can't really tape the join
as the tape will show. Where you've got plasterboard butting up
to another sheet of board or some other surface and they aren't
fixed to the same support (timber or whatever), the best thing
to do is to leave a gap between the board of 1/4 to 1/2", and
force bonding coat plaster into the gap such that it ozes through
and out the back. This will quite effectively bond the board
edge and reduce the chance of any local movement. Then skim over
that edge up to the corner. (It's not clear to me if you are
skimming all the board, or just the edges -- you wouldn't
normally bother with joint filler if skimming the whole board.)

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"VisionSet" writes:
The std 10kg gypsum joint filler bags are too big for small jobs and with
such a short shelf life are expensive.

Anyone know where I can get powdered or ready mix something that will do
the
the usual taped system job - properly

Not sure what gypsum joint filler is, but a 25kg bag of finish coat
plaster is only around £4. If you keep it in a cool dry place, it
should last for a couple of years for small jobs like this. (It will
set faster as it gets older, but that's an advantage for small jobs.)

I only need to make about 4m of join.

Oh and if I join dryline to normal browning & finish on brick, do I
attempt
to tape those joints or just 2 coat up to it?

If the wall is already skimmed, you can't really tape the join
as the tape will show. Where you've got plasterboard butting up
to another sheet of board or some other surface and they aren't
fixed to the same support (timber or whatever), the best thing
to do is to leave a gap between the board of 1/4 to 1/2", and
force bonding coat plaster into the gap such that it ozes through
and out the back. This will quite effectively bond the board
edge and reduce the chance of any local movement. Then skim over
that edge up to the corner. (It's not clear to me if you are
skimming all the board, or just the edges -- you wouldn't
normally bother with joint filler if skimming the whole board.)

Thanks Andrew & Mike

Okay more detail, I hadn't decided whether to just fill the tapers or skim
the whole boards, I will be using tapered boards so I can do either.
If I just fill there must be something special about the joint filler since
it is over 10 quid for a 10kg bag - I've got some left from last time but
that was about 4 years ago! - would it just set quick or will the strength
be compromised as well?
I was going to bond the boards to the brick with dabs.
Again the same problem with the dabs - 25kg bags at 10GBP a time - not so
bad - but I'll only need a quater of a bag at most.
The joins between regular 2 coat and the dryline are at a 135 degree corner
so it isn't the end of the world if I have to put in a bead of something
flexible.

TIA

--
Mike W

On Mon, 30 May 2005 08:59:42 GMT, "VisionSet"
wrote:

Okay more detail, I hadn't decided whether to just fill the tapers or skim
the whole boards, I will be using tapered boards so I can do either.
If I just fill there must be something special about the joint filler since
it is over 10 quid for a 10kg bag

The filler is only for dry lining. Its possible to feather the filler,
you cant feather plaster. Also the filler can be sanded more easily
and wipe it with a wet sponge to feather it further. I can see no use
in it if you are going to plaster over it!

- I've got some left from last time but
that was about 4 years ago! - would it just set quick or will the strength
be compromised as well?
I was going to bond the boards to the brick with dabs.
Again the same problem with the dabs - 25kg bags at 10GBP a time - not so
bad - but I'll only need a quater of a bag at most.

Its available for about £5 per 25kg.

The joins between regular 2 coat and the dryline are at a 135 degree corner
so it isn't the end of the world if I have to put in a bead of something
flexible.

TIA