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jon
 
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Default Powerflushing is it necessary

So far I've managed to get 4 quotes for the installation and supply of a
new combi/condenser boiler. Two of them recommend a powerflush (one of them
being British gas, the other one just happens to have a mate who does them).
The other 2 said they will just run cleaner through the system, etc.

Is powerflushing just a gimmick, or is it the best way of cleaning the
system prior to the installation of a new boiler. Just for ref, the cost of
said powerflush is £250.

The rads are approx 30 years old, single fin, but have no cold spots. When I
took one of the downstairs rads off to decorate, I noticed the usual amount
of black water (about a third of a cup).

TIA

Jon


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Ian Stirling
 
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jon wrote:
So far I've managed to get 4 quotes for the installation and supply of a
new combi/condenser boiler. Two of them recommend a powerflush (one of them
being British gas, the other one just happens to have a mate who does them).
The other 2 said they will just run cleaner through the system, etc.

Is powerflushing just a gimmick, or is it the best way of cleaning the
system prior to the installation of a new boiler. Just for ref, the cost of
said powerflush is ?250.

The rads are approx 30 years old, single fin, but have no cold spots. When I
took one of the downstairs rads off to decorate, I noticed the usual amount
of black water (about a third of a cup).

TIA


If you're willing to do a little DIY, you can simply remove each radiator,
take it outside, and then connect the hose to each side until it runs clear.
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jon
 
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"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
jon wrote:
So far I've managed to get 4 quotes for the installation and supply of a
new combi/condenser boiler. Two of them recommend a powerflush (one of
them
being British gas, the other one just happens to have a mate who does
them).
The other 2 said they will just run cleaner through the system, etc.

Is powerflushing just a gimmick, or is it the best way of cleaning the
system prior to the installation of a new boiler. Just for ref, the cost
of
said powerflush is ?250.

The rads are approx 30 years old, single fin, but have no cold spots.
When I
took one of the downstairs rads off to decorate, I noticed the usual
amount
of black water (about a third of a cup).

TIA


If you're willing to do a little DIY, you can simply remove each radiator,
take it outside, and then connect the hose to each side until it runs
clear.


Cheers Ian,

but would there be any 'gunk' in the connecting pipes, or does it only sit
at the bottom of radiators, as that is where it is produced?

Jon


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Ian Stirling
 
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jon wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
jon wrote:
So far I've managed to get 4 quotes for the installation and supply of a
new combi/condenser boiler. Two of them recommend a powerflush (one of
them
being British gas, the other one just happens to have a mate who does
them).
The other 2 said they will just run cleaner through the system, etc.

Is powerflushing just a gimmick, or is it the best way of cleaning the
system prior to the installation of a new boiler. Just for ref, the cost
of
said powerflush is ?250.

The rads are approx 30 years old, single fin, but have no cold spots.
When I
took one of the downstairs rads off to decorate, I noticed the usual
amount
of black water (about a third of a cup).

TIA


If you're willing to do a little DIY, you can simply remove each radiator,
take it outside, and then connect the hose to each side until it runs
clear.


Cheers Ian,

but would there be any 'gunk' in the connecting pipes, or does it only sit
at the bottom of radiators, as that is where it is produced?



Mostly, it sits in the corners and crevices of the radiators as I understand
it.
However, I don't reall yknow.
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jon wrote:

Is powerflushing just a gimmick, or is it the best way of cleaning

the
system prior to the installation of a new boiler. Just for ref, the

cost of
said powerflush is =A3250.


good god

The rads are approx 30 years old, single fin, but have no cold spots.

When I
took one of the downstairs rads off to decorate, I noticed the usual

amount
of black water (about a third of a cup).


Sounds like you just answered your own question.

NT



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John Rumm
 
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Default

jon wrote:

The rads are approx 30 years old, single fin, but have no cold spots. When I
took one of the downstairs rads off to decorate, I noticed the usual amount
of black water (about a third of a cup).


Sounds pretty clean then...

Remember also that once it is converted to a pressurised system it is
easy to run a continuous stream of water through the pipework under
mains pressure from the filling loop.

One enhancement I made to our system that works very well was the
inclusion of a drain point piped through the wall to a gully outside -
makes draining the system so easy and mess free in comparison. Combined
with the filling loop it also gives a ready path for flushing.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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jon
 
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"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
jon wrote:

The rads are approx 30 years old, single fin, but have no cold spots.
When I took one of the downstairs rads off to decorate, I noticed the
usual amount of black water (about a third of a cup).


Sounds pretty clean then...

Remember also that once it is converted to a pressurised system it is easy
to run a continuous stream of water through the pipework under mains
pressure from the filling loop.

One enhancement I made to our system that works very well was the
inclusion of a drain point piped through the wall to a gully outside -
makes draining the system so easy and mess free in comparison. Combined
with the filling loop it also gives a ready path for flushing.

An exceptionally cunning idea. Think I'll be doing the same.

Cheers

Jon


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Aidan
 
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You could hire the power flushing machine and DIY. If you've had a long
term corrosion problem, e.g. pumping over, the corrosion products from
the inside of the radiators are the black magnetite sludge which tends
to lie in the bottom of the pipes. In this case, you'd probably have
lost a few rads to rust. Flushing the rads out won't shift this, but it
usually clears out any blockages in the rads, better than power
flushing can, so it's usually beneficial.

If the system was properly set up & corrosion inhibited, there
shouldn't be much sludge at all.

I've seen 15mm od pipes reduced to 7or 8mm bore by sludge. This was a
long term corrosion problem. BG had been doing the system maintenance
for a long time. The sludge is very sticky stuff, I'm not convinced
power flushing shifts all of it. However, it should shift any that is
liable to re-locate into your new boiler. If you drain the system and
it dries out, a lot of sludge becomes mobile when you re-fill and start
the pump.

I'd recommend it. If you DIY the fitter will probably provide no
guarantee as to sludge damage. The waterways on modern HE boilers &
combi plate heat exchangers are very narrow compared to old cast iron
stuff. They are more liable to blockage by water borne sludge.

a drain point piped through the wall to a gully outside -

Good idea, but drain cock inside, make sure it can't freeze.

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powerflushing - is it worth it? JohnW UK diy 9 December 21st 04 10:03 PM


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