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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Floor screeds?
Hi
I have a concrete floor in the kitchen and I need to build up the height by 12mm. Levelling compunds seem to have a max thickness of 3mm (well Wickes does anyway), while ordinary floor screeds seem to be a min thickness of 25mm, or more. Whats the best way to increase a concrete floor by 12 mm? Cheers Richard |
#2
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richard wrote:
Hi I have a concrete floor in the kitchen and I need to build up the height by 12mm. Levelling compunds seem to have a max thickness of 3mm (well Wickes does anyway), while ordinary floor screeds seem to be a min thickness of 25mm, or more. Whats the best way to increase a concrete floor by 12 mm? Cheers Richard 12mm WBP Ply ? RT |
#3
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richard wrote:
Hi I have a concrete floor in the kitchen and I need to build up the height by 12mm. Levelling compunds seem to have a max thickness of 3mm (well Wickes does anyway), while ordinary floor screeds seem to be a min thickness of 25mm, or more. I think you will find that levveling comnpunsds are 3mm MINIMUM not MAXIUMUM Screed may be a little weak for 12mm, but a sterner mix with more cement may serve you well. ceratinly tile cement will work. But cheap it aint. I'd go for a mixture of 3:1 sand, cement and throw some PVA in and mix it fairly wet, and puddle it flat before polishing. Try a test area first to make sure it sticks. If the surface is dusty, PVA it first. Whats the best way to increase a concrete floor by 12 mm? Cheers Richard |
#4
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On Tue, 24 May 2005 14:10:39 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
richard wrote: Hi I have a concrete floor in the kitchen and I need to build up the height by 12mm. Levelling compunds seem to have a max thickness of 3mm (well Wickes does anyway), while ordinary floor screeds seem to be a min thickness of 25mm, or more. I think you will find that levveling comnpunsds are 3mm MINIMUM not MAXIUMUM Screed may be a little weak for 12mm, but a sterner mix with more cement may serve you well. ceratinly tile cement will work. But cheap it aint. I'd go for a mixture of 3:1 sand, cement and throw some PVA in and mix it fairly wet, and puddle it flat before polishing. Try a test area first to make sure it sticks. If the surface is dusty, PVA it first. Whats the best way to increase a concrete floor by 12 mm? Cheers Richard Thanks for the reply, much appricaiated. When ypu say wet - how wet do you mean - like mortar? Also how long do you think that 12 mm will take to dry enough to lay tiles? Thanks for your help |
#5
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richard wrote:
On Tue, 24 May 2005 14:10:39 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote: richard wrote: Hi I have a concrete floor in the kitchen and I need to build up the height by 12mm. Levelling compunds seem to have a max thickness of 3mm (well Wickes does anyway), while ordinary floor screeds seem to be a min thickness of 25mm, or more. I think you will find that levveling comnpunsds are 3mm MINIMUM not MAXIUMUM Screed may be a little weak for 12mm, but a sterner mix with more cement may serve you well. ceratinly tile cement will work. But cheap it aint. I'd go for a mixture of 3:1 sand, cement and throw some PVA in and mix it fairly wet, and puddle it flat before polishing. Try a test area first to make sure it sticks. If the surface is dusty, PVA it first. Whats the best way to increase a concrete floor by 12 mm? Cheers Richard Thanks for the reply, much appricaiated. When ypu say wet - how wet do you mean - like mortar? Or even sloppier to help it run. Builders sand rather than sharp sand helps as well. Also how long do you think that 12 mm will take to dry enough to lay tiles? It will set enough to lay tiles on in about 24 hours in summer. I'd leave it 48 hours though. - you will need a break. It is debateable as to whether a quick setting tile cement and a level and some string is easier to build a level floor 12mm above the screed rather than trying to level in one go. I certainly did this myself - up to 30mm of tile cement in some places. Cost a lot in cement, but its flat. Basically build a grid of string over the floor at finshed height, and use more or less thickish RAPID DRYING cement to tamp each tile down to the grid level. Start in the middle. Do NOT use slow set - tiles will slump before the cement dries - and mix its really STIFF. This is non trivial and only practice makes perfect. Thanks for your help |
#6
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In message , The
Natural Philosopher writes It is debateable as to whether a quick setting tile cement and a level and some string is easier to build a level floor 12mm above the screed rather than trying to level in one go. I certainly did this myself - up to 30mm of tile cement in some places. Cost a lot in cement, but its flat. Basically build a grid of string over the floor at finshed height, and use more or less thickish RAPID DRYING cement to tamp each tile down to the grid level. Start in the middle. Do NOT use slow set - tiles will slump before the cement dries - and mix its really STIFF. This is non trivial and only practice makes perfect. Has anyone tried doing this sort of thing with a laser level? regards -- Tim Lamb |
#7
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Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes It is debateable as to whether a quick setting tile cement and a level and some string is easier to build a level floor 12mm above the screed rather than trying to level in one go. I certainly did this myself - up to 30mm of tile cement in some places. Cost a lot in cement, but its flat. Basically build a grid of string over the floor at finshed height, and use more or less thickish RAPID DRYING cement to tamp each tile down to the grid level. Start in the middle. Do NOT use slow set - tiles will slump before the cement dries - and mix its really STIFF. This is non trivial and only practice makes perfect. Has anyone tried doing this sort of thing with a laser level? I think the string is easier, but use teh level to get the string right first off.. regards |
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