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Ali Mac
 
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Default Skimming on to aerated block wall

The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting it
out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling
(or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old
brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they
skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all
nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me to
dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a fantastic
job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if you
sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are higher
than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what
happens with the horizontal ones?
My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the new
room was not Grand Designs-tastic.

All advice gratefully received.

Alistair


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BigWallop
 
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Default


"Ali Mac" wrote in message
...
The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting

it
out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling
(or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old
brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they
skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all
nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me

to
dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a fantastic
job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if you
sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are higher
than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what
happens with the horizontal ones?
My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the new
room was not Grand Designs-tastic.

All advice gratefully received.

Alistair



Get a good plasterer in to do the walls for you. They'll probably skin the
block and brick in a couple of days, and that does make the room look
fantastic.


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Ali Mac
 
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Default

"BigWallop" wrote in message
. uk...

"Ali Mac" wrote in message
...
The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting

it
out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling
(or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old
brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they
skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all
nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me

to snip


Get a good plasterer in to do the walls for you. They'll probably skin
the
block and brick in a couple of days, and that does make the room look
fantastic.


Exactly the answer I was hoping for - Thx

Alistair


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Andrew Gabriel
 
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Default

In article ,
"Ali Mac" writes:
The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting it
out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling
(or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old
brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they
skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all
nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me to
dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a fantastic
job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if you
sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are higher
than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what
happens with the horizontal ones?
My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the new
room was not Grand Designs-tastic.

All advice gratefully received.


I would avoid dry lining if possible, and have the walls properly
plastered (which is a scratch coat, and then a skim on top).
Dry lining is really for those who can't plaster, or want to do
it on the cheap. A real plasterer will be able to do it properly.

--
Andrew Gabriel
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Bob Mannix
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Ali Mac" writes:
The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting

it
out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard

ceiling
(or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the

old
brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they
skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's

all
nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me

to
dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a

fantastic
job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if

you
sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are

higher
than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what
happens with the horizontal ones?
My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the

new
room was not Grand Designs-tastic.

All advice gratefully received.


I would avoid dry lining if possible, and have the walls properly
plastered (which is a scratch coat, and then a skim on top).
Dry lining is really for those who can't plaster, or want to do
it on the cheap. A real plasterer will be able to do it properly.


As the man says, avoid dry lining if at all possible. In a moment of
weakness I agreed to a new bedroom being dry-lined and really wished I
hadn't. It is a poor second best to wet lining, although, if skimmed, it
will look as good. It's an absolute b*gg*r to fix things too and it's noisy
(hollow sounding) when you knock it.

--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)


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