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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Skimming on to aerated block wall
The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting it
out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling (or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me to dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a fantastic job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if you sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are higher than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what happens with the horizontal ones? My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the new room was not Grand Designs-tastic. All advice gratefully received. Alistair |
#2
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"Ali Mac" wrote in message ... The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting it out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling (or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me to dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a fantastic job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if you sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are higher than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what happens with the horizontal ones? My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the new room was not Grand Designs-tastic. All advice gratefully received. Alistair Get a good plasterer in to do the walls for you. They'll probably skin the block and brick in a couple of days, and that does make the room look fantastic. |
#3
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"BigWallop" wrote in message
. uk... "Ali Mac" wrote in message ... The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting it out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling (or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me to snip Get a good plasterer in to do the walls for you. They'll probably skin the block and brick in a couple of days, and that does make the room look fantastic. Exactly the answer I was hoping for - Thx Alistair |
#4
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In article ,
"Ali Mac" writes: The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting it out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling (or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me to dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a fantastic job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if you sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are higher than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what happens with the horizontal ones? My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the new room was not Grand Designs-tastic. All advice gratefully received. I would avoid dry lining if possible, and have the walls properly plastered (which is a scratch coat, and then a skim on top). Dry lining is really for those who can't plaster, or want to do it on the cheap. A real plasterer will be able to do it properly. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#5
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"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message .. . In article , "Ali Mac" writes: The extension is nearly a year old and I'm just getting round to fitting it out. We've got block new walls brick old walls and a plasterboard ceiling (or will have). Is there any point in drylining the blockwork and the old brick wall, and then gettting someone in to skim the lot, or should they skim straight on to the brick and block, and save me the effort. It's all nice and straight with no mortar sticking out. Would it be better for me to dryline and then use tape and jointing compound? Assuming I do a fantastic job, of course. Is it possible to make a drylined wall look perfect if you sand the joints down, or can you always see the join? The walls are higher than 2.4m so although T/E board would be OK on the vertical joints, what happens with the horizontal ones? My popularity would drop to 39% or lower if, after all this work, the new room was not Grand Designs-tastic. All advice gratefully received. I would avoid dry lining if possible, and have the walls properly plastered (which is a scratch coat, and then a skim on top). Dry lining is really for those who can't plaster, or want to do it on the cheap. A real plasterer will be able to do it properly. As the man says, avoid dry lining if at all possible. In a moment of weakness I agreed to a new bedroom being dry-lined and really wished I hadn't. It is a poor second best to wet lining, although, if skimmed, it will look as good. It's an absolute b*gg*r to fix things too and it's noisy (hollow sounding) when you knock it. -- Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not) |
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