Hi,

I was wondering if anyone could offer a novice diy'er some advice. My
letterbox was removed when our front door was painted; the bolt
receptor then got threaded while refitting it. The only letterbox I
could buy to replace it has *slightly* different dimensions, i.e.

1) The bolts are further apart.

2) The flap is a little bit too big for the old hole, and the spring
mechanism is larger.

Anyway, I'll need to resize the rectangular hole a few mm all round.
My questions a

1) What is the best way to make this hole a little bigger? Should I
use a chisel or a padsaw (I own neither so will have to buy one)?

2) Should I remove the door from its frame while I work on it? If so,
any tips?

3) If I can't get away with using the same bolt holes, I am planning
to glue some dowel into them, sand them down and then drill new holes
a few mm away. Will I need a particular type of wood glue for this?
Anything else I should bear in mind?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Best regards,

Hamish

"Hamish" wrote in message
om

My letterbox was removed when our front door was painted; the bolt
receptor then got threaded while refitting it. The only letterbox I
could buy to replace it has *slightly* different dimensions, i.e.
1) The bolts are further apart.

File with a coarse round file or an hacksaw blade out to the new size
and use largish washers on the inside of the door.

2) The flap is a little bit too big for the old hole, and the spring
mechanism is larger.

Use the hacksaw blade or file again to cut up into the door about 1/4"
or so (is what it usually is) and buy a cheap 1 1/2" chisel to pare out
to these cuts. You don't really need to cut it square out just enough to
supply access but do it as square as you can. You had best practice on a
block of wood in a vice first.

Anyway, I'll need to resize the rectangular hole a few mm all round.
Should I remove the door from its frame while I work on it?

No need. How would removing it make it easier?

If I can't get away with using the same bolt holes, I am planning
to glue some dowel into them, sand them down and then drill new holes
a few mm away.

There is no need as the flap will be held as long as you can get
suitable washers. Any ugly mess you may make can be hidden with a
draught excluder on the inside. If you really mess up, just cut it
out and fit a block of wood to patch it.

The trick is not to mess-up in the first place. It does rather sound as
though you might though. Perhaps a good idea would be for you to enroll
in an evening class for woodwork this coming Autumn?


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Hamish wrote:

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone could offer a novice diy'er some advice. My
letterbox was removed when our front door was painted; the bolt
receptor then got threaded while refitting it. The only letterbox I
could buy to replace it has *slightly* different dimensions, i.e.

1) The bolts are further apart.

2) The flap is a little bit too big for the old hole, and the spring
mechanism is larger.

Anyway, I'll need to resize the rectangular hole a few mm all round.
My questions a

1) What is the best way to make this hole a little bigger? Should I
use a chisel or a padsaw (I own neither so will have to buy one)?

2) Should I remove the door from its frame while I work on it? If so,
any tips?

3) If I can't get away with using the same bolt holes, I am planning
to glue some dowel into them, sand them down and then drill new holes
a few mm away. Will I need a particular type of wood glue for this?
Anything else I should bear in mind?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Best regards,

Hamish

Not sure what you mean by "got threaded". I assumed that they needed to be
threaded for the bolts to screw in?!

Assuming that you mean that the threads got damaged, can't you re-tap them
and use larger bolts?

If you really want to make the opening larger, the best way would be with a
router - but you probably don't want to buy one for a one-off job. Another
way is to use a spiral saw - which is like a drill bit with cutting edges
all down its length - which you use in an electric drill. They can be a bit
vicious though, so practise on a scrap bit of wood first.

You can do it easily enough with the door in situ but - if you *do* use a
router it woild be easier to take the door off and lie it down flat.

You don't really need to fill the old bolt holes. The outside will be hidden
by the new letterbox. If the inside shows, bung a bit of pollyfilla in the
holes.

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

In article ,
Hamish wrote:
I was wondering if anyone could offer a novice diy'er some advice. My
letterbox was removed when our front door was painted; the bolt
receptor then got threaded while refitting it. The only letterbox I
could buy to replace it has *slightly* different dimensions, i.e.


If they were bolts, get some threaded rod and nuts from B&Q etc, Superglue
the threaded rod into the old boss and use nuts to fix to door.

--
*If a turtle doesn't have a shell, is he homeless or naked?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Hamish" wrote in message
om...
Hi,

I was wondering if anyone could offer a novice diy'er some advice. My
letterbox was removed when our front door was painted; the bolt
receptor then got threaded while refitting it. The only letterbox I
could buy to replace it has *slightly* different dimensions, i.e.

1) The bolts are further apart.

2) The flap is a little bit too big for the old hole, and the spring
mechanism is larger.

Anyway, I'll need to resize the rectangular hole a few mm all round.
My questions a

1) What is the best way to make this hole a little bigger? Should I
use a chisel or a padsaw (I own neither so will have to buy one)?

2) Should I remove the door from its frame while I work on it? If so,
any tips?

3) If I can't get away with using the same bolt holes, I am planning
to glue some dowel into them, sand them down and then drill new holes
a few mm away. Will I need a particular type of wood glue for this?
Anything else I should bear in mind?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have them. Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

IMM wrote:
snip of letterbox
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have them. Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

Letterboxes do not have to let draughts in.
Some have properly formed gaskets round the door, and seal tightly
until opened manually.

In article ,
IMM wrote:
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have them.
Fix a key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

You get an old decent sized house with a vestibule. Not only does it
insulate heat wise, it cuts down noise.

--
*Xerox and Wurlitzer will merge to market reproductive organs.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
snip of letterbox
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have them.
Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

Letterboxes do not have to let draughts in.
Some have properly formed gaskets round the door, and seal tightly
until opened manually.

Eco doors are fully insulated. The letterbox is a large cold bridge, also it
is difficult to make air tight. Best get rid and fill the hole.

Thanks for the replies. Just to clarify:

The front plate of the letterbox has 2 receptors which accept the
bolts. The thread inside one of these receptors has completely
disintegrated, taking part of its casing with it, so it can't be
rethreaded.

The reason why I suspect I may have to refill the bolt holes is
because they are *very* close to the rectangular hole and I fear that
enlarging the rectangular hole may cause it to 'merge' with the bolt
holes.

A tale of woe, I know! Perhaps I will get myself onto an evening
course in order to learn how to do these things properly, but I need
to sort this letterbox out ASAP - it's a shambles at the moment.

Thanks again for the responses.

Cheers,

Hamish

Hamish wrote:

The front plate of the letterbox has 2 receptors which accept the
bolts. The thread inside one of these receptors has completely
disintegrated, taking part of its casing with it, so it can't be
rethreaded.

How about: Knock off the rest of the broken casing and fit a standard
hex nut of the correct size and thread in its place with epoxy or car
body filler.

The reason why I suspect I may have to refill the bolt holes is
because they are *very* close to the rectangular hole and I fear that
enlarging the rectangular hole may cause it to 'merge' with the bolt
holes.

Would probably not matter if they did...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Hamish wrote:

Thanks for the replies. Just to clarify:

The front plate of the letterbox has 2 receptors which accept the
bolts. The thread inside one of these receptors has completely
disintegrated, taking part of its casing with it, so it can't be
rethreaded.

You could probably re-build it with epoxy resin. It doesn't have to be
wonderfully strong. Alternatively, drill and countersink from the front and
put long countersunk bolts all the way through. The boltheads will show, of
course, but you may find ones which match the letterbox fairly well. What is
the external finish?


The reason why I suspect I may have to refill the bolt holes is
because they are *very* close to the rectangular hole and I fear that
enlarging the rectangular hole may cause it to 'merge' with the bolt
holes.

So what! All the better if you get rid of the original bolt holes when
enlarging the rectangle. It will all be covered (on the outside, at any
rate) by the new letterbox, anyway.


A tale of woe, I know! Perhaps I will get myself onto an evening
course in order to learn how to do these things properly, but I need
to sort this letterbox out ASAP - it's a shambles at the moment.


I can't help feeling that you're turning a minor problem into a calamity!

--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

(Hamish) wrote in message . com...
Thanks for the replies. Just to clarify:

The front plate of the letterbox has 2 receptors which accept the
bolts. The thread inside one of these receptors has completely
disintegrated, taking part of its casing with it, so it can't be
rethreaded.

get yourself some liquid metal ( something like that) epoxy glue from
the car accessories place and build the metal up again with it. Either
rethread with care, or glue some threaded rod in there and put the nut
on the inside of the door. You can ercess the wood where nuts go, and
fill with woodfiller after fitting, then theres nothing to see
internally.

Alternatively you could drill and thread smaller holes in the flap
frame, and fix in with a few smaller bolts. Or glue the thing in
place....and so on.

The metalwork can be painted afterwards to disappear any filled in
with glue bits.

Regards, NT

"Hamish" wrote
| I fear that enlarging the rectangular hole may cause it to 'merge'
| with the bolt holes.

I surmise that the reason you have to enlarge the rectangular hole is
because you are using a sprung push-inwards exterior letter plate. If you
use a lift-flap exterior letter plate you probably won't have to do anything
about the hole inside.

Screwfix have quite a wide selection of letter plates under Ironmongery -
Door Furniture, including some lift-flap designs.

Owain

IMM wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
snip of letterbox
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have them.
Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

Letterboxes do not have to let draughts in.
Some have properly formed gaskets round the door, and seal tightly
until opened manually.

Eco doors are fully insulated. The letterbox is a large cold bridge, also it
is difficult to make air tight. Best get rid and fill the hole.

The letterboxes heat loss is utterly trivial.

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
snip of letterbox
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have
them.
Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

Letterboxes do not have to let draughts in.
Some have properly formed gaskets round the door, and seal tightly
until opened manually.

Eco doors are fully insulated. The letterbox is a large cold bridge,
also it
is difficult to make air tight. Best get rid and fill the hole.

The letterboxes heat loss is utterly trivial.

It all adds up. The draught are what is the problem. It is virtually
impossible to make one 100% air tight and as time goes on its gets worse.

IMM wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
snip of letterbox
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have
them.
Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

Letterboxes do not have to let draughts in.
Some have properly formed gaskets round the door, and seal tightly
until opened manually.

Eco doors are fully insulated. The letterbox is a large cold bridge,
also it
is difficult to make air tight. Best get rid and fill the hole.

The letterboxes heat loss is utterly trivial.

It all adds up. The draught are what is the problem. It is virtually
impossible to make one 100% air tight and as time goes on its gets worse.

It's almost trivial to make it 100% airtight.
All I did on mine was to disassemble, grease flap, run a bead of silicone
round the inside, and then close.
Draft free, certainly smaller than the amount going round the edges.

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 18:29:22 +0100, "IMM" wrote:


"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
snip of letterbox
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have
them.
Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

Letterboxes do not have to let draughts in.
Some have properly formed gaskets round the door, and seal tightly
until opened manually.

Eco doors are fully insulated. The letterbox is a large cold bridge,
also it
is difficult to make air tight. Best get rid and fill the hole.

The letterboxes heat loss is utterly trivial.

It all adds up. The draught are what is the problem. It is virtually
impossible to make one 100% air tight and as time goes on its gets worse.


I suppose that it's one way of avoiding the junk mail from double
glazing and insulation companies.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 18:29:22 +0100, "IMM" wrote:


"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
snip of letterbox
Seal it up. Letterboxes allow draughts in. Eco doors do not have
them.
Fix a
key mailbox on the wall outside. They also look better.

Letterboxes do not have to let draughts in.
Some have properly formed gaskets round the door, and seal tightly
until opened manually.

Eco doors are fully insulated. The letterbox is a large cold bridge,
also it
is difficult to make air tight. Best get rid and fill the hole.

The letterboxes heat loss is utterly trivial.

It all adds up. The draught are what is the problem. It is virtually
impossible to make one 100% air tight and as time goes on its gets worse.


I suppose that it's one way of avoiding the junk mail from double
glazing and insulation companies.

...and Tory party propaganda leaflets telling us they represent the interests
of normal people.