I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
"petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and whatever
other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
can be used for the same purpose?

--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free exellent windows bible)

AAvK wrote:
I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
"petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and whatever
other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
can be used for the same purpose?

I don't know anything about blending a
grease from beeswax.

Have you tried silicone grease? I don't
think it has much of a smell.

From my personal archives of this NG (i.e. not from me) - GWE:

"My choice (for lubricating lathe chucks) is Dow Corning G-N Metal Assembly
Paste. It is a light bodied grease loaded with moly, graphite and other solid
lubes. A very thin film on the scroll and other friction surfaces makes for a
very smooth action that lasts a long time. All chucks eventually have to be
taken apart to remove chips, but the thin lube film causes minimal build up."

Jim Stewart wrote:

AAvK wrote:

I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
"petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and
whatever
other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if
it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe
that
can be used for the same purpose?


I don't know anything about blending a
grease from beeswax.

Have you tried silicone grease? I don't
think it has much of a smell.

AAvK wrote:

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if
it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or
should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe
that
can be used for the same purpose?

--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free exellent windows bible)



There are several possibilities, one is the paste lubricant sold in
tubes for use with automotive disc brake calipers, Wagner is one brand
I have seen. Another is a special semi-fluid oil that is runny right
out of the can but soon stiffens to a grease, though at the moment I
don't recall who makes it. Whenever I have wanted a soft but not liquid
lube for portable tool gear boxes and such, I just thin out a good
grease such as Lubriplate with a little STP or a 50-50 mix of STP and
gear oil, and this has very little if any smell.
Mike

PJ1 is a motorcycle chain lube, and it comes out like WD-40 and turns
into a thick grease, which is exactly what roller chains need, as there
needs to be a way to get the lubricant inside the roller and not fly off.
Motorcycle shops have it.
The black can is much thicker than the blue can, but is my favorite
grease for best spreading abilities as it wicks wherever you need it and
sticks to surfaces most excellently. I think less than ten bucks, and is my
favorite all around stuff. I use it on my battery terminals, machine
lubricants, bike chains, and other places I also want some anticorrosion
properties because it's thick enough to keep the water out.
There is a bit of an odor when you spray it on (comes out of the nozzle
like a foam) but I don't recall ever smelling it after that.
LPS-3 is a wax-based anticorrosion spray you can get at better auto
parts stores. Usually serves as a corrosion inhibiting compound, but it
never hardens, so it has some possibilities as a heavy and sticky grease.
Used to be used on airplanes, but was replaced with stuff that isn't so
affected by heat, and actually hardens, which LPS didn't do. Good thing, I
really hated rattlecanning airplane sections by hand!


"AAvK" wrote in message
news:LeDDd.52057$Cl3.40257@fed1read03...
| I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
| "petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
| for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and whatever
| other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
| could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
| other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.
|
| So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
| and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
| too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
| be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
| can be used for the same purpose?
|
| --
| Alex
| cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
| http://www.e-sword.net/ (free exellent windows bible)
|
|

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for
50-50 beeswax and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary
of the wax flaking anyway

Beeswax tends to be softer than the hard parafin that
candles are made of, and I've heard of it being used
successfully as a lubricant before, so I'd say that
sounds right...
--Glenn Lyford

AAvK wrote:
I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
"petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and whatever
other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
can be used for the same purpose?


I don't think motor oil will smell much better than white lithium
grease, which I have for general use around the shop. I agree that axle
grease smells pretty awful, but that's not the right stuff for you anyway.
For a beeswax mix, I would go with 60/40 oil/wax. My experience is with
walnut oil, for finishing wood, but a 50/50 mix was too hard. You want
more oil than wax, I'd think. Worthy of experimentation, just add more
of one or the other if needed.

Ken Grunke

--
take da "ma" offa dot com fer eemayl

In article LeDDd.52057$Cl3.40257@fed1read03, says...
I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
"petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and whatever
other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.

A 1 lb can of white lithium grease is about $3 at the auto parts store.
It has very little odor, is petroleum based, and is a good all purpose
grease.

Ned Simmons

Vaseline -

AAvK wrote:
I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
"petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and whatever
other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
can be used for the same purpose?

--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free exellent windows bible)

"AAvK" wrote in message news:LeDDd.52057$Cl3.40257@fed1read03...
I was looking all over, auto parts stores, online sites, searches for
"petroleum based grease" among other terms... point being is a need
for a thick, semi stiff yet soft lube for the screws in vises and whatever
other basic needs like that, which do not "stink" to H-H like anything I
could find. It seems petroleum/oil is at a premium so there is every
other engineered chemical replacement, and they all stink profusely.

So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
can be used for the same purpose?

--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free exellent windows bible)


Ever thought about using food grade grease see url

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...roduction.html

I want to thank everyone here for helping and making all good suggestions,
I learned that graphite powder and grease are the way to go. It can be homemade
with the homemade paste wax and graphite powder, lightly but fully applied.
Sawdust will fall right off of it. Anything else will attract sawdust and sandpaper
abrasives.

Point being is the 1/2-nut that the screw works in is a super soft brass alloy from
the 1800's, maybe tin in it, DK, carvable with a blade. But there can't be any single
iota of abrasive, the rust on the lead screw is bad enough, before I scrub it. Just
maybe I should have a mold taken from the 1/2-nut!

--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free excellent windows bible)

On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 13:33:42 -0800, "AAvK" wrote:


So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
can be used for the same purpose?

On some old engines there was a "beeswax injector", this shot beeswax
into the cylinder where it put a nice glaze on the bore.
Doubt this would work on a modern engine.
Mike in BC

On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 17:32:08 GMT, wrote:

On Fri, 7 Jan 2005 13:33:42 -0800, "AAvK" wrote:


So searches like "wax as grease" turned up a recipe for 50-50 beeswax
and motor oil, doesn't stink. But, leary of the wax flaking anyway if it's
too much in the ratio, anyone think this is a correct ratio, or should it
be a 60 oil / 40 wax, what should be proper? Is there a better recipe that
can be used for the same purpose?

On some old engines there was a "beeswax injector", this shot beeswax
into the cylinder where it put a nice glaze on the bore.
Doubt this would work on a modern engine.
Mike in BC
FWIW this was on steam engines.
Mike in BC