I have a question on what I should use on the chain in a bicyle and
for gear inside a lawn mower. Normally, I would use grease for this
stuff. But I come across a product call Dry-Lub that is supposed to be
dry to touch. I think this sounds great for putting it in the chain of
a bicyle to avoid dirty grease from getting into our pants. I have a
couple questions though:

- Is Dry-Lub appropriate for being used in a chain of a bicycle?

- Should I clean out all the grease from the chain first before
putting on Dry-Lub onto it? I think I should if I want to prevent
grease from getting onto my pants. What kind of solvent should I use
to remove the grease without damaging the metal chain?

- I have already bought a can of Dry-Lub. I doubt that I can use it
up just for the bicycle. I am wondering whether I can use the
remaining Dry-Lub in the gears of a lawn mower?

- Can I use it on metal surface of gardening tools to prevent rust?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

If lawnowers gears have a grease fitting no, you are still best using
what is recommended, For kids bikes you would need to take the chain
and soak it in gasolene to remove old oil, rain may remove it quicker
than oil plus it wont last as long, I have dry lube from 20 yrs ago I
rarely use it. For your bike maybe yes but its hard to know when it is
worn off. Door hinges car and house may be good or sticking windows and
door frames or locks.

Jay Chan wrote:
I have a question on what I should use on the chain in a bicyle and
for gear inside a lawn mower. Normally, I would use grease for this
stuff. But I come across a product call Dry-Lub that is supposed to be
dry to touch. I think this sounds great for putting it in the chain of
a bicyle to avoid dirty grease from getting into our pants. I have a
couple questions though:

- Is Dry-Lub appropriate for being used in a chain of a bicycle?

- Should I clean out all the grease from the chain first before
putting on Dry-Lub onto it? I think I should if I want to prevent
grease from getting onto my pants. What kind of solvent should I use
to remove the grease without damaging the metal chain?

- I have already bought a can of Dry-Lub. I doubt that I can use it
up just for the bicycle. I am wondering whether I can use the
remaining Dry-Lub in the gears of a lawn mower?

- Can I use it on metal surface of gardening tools to prevent rust?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

For the mower use what the manufacturer specifies. There are lots of
different designs and they don't all need the same lube.

For the bike, stop by a bike shop. They have cleaner (really just the
orange or green stuff repackaged) that is effective and safe. DON'T use
gasoline as someone suggested. You can use the orange or green stuff from
the hardware store not the bike shop. For lube use the stuff the bike shops
have. It is formulated special for bikes. It is "dry" but goes on wet. It
will stay on better in the rain than other lubes and is less likely to drip
or stain clothing etc. Well worth the small cost. They even have chain
cleaners so you don't need to remove the chain to clean it.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Use paint thinner made with mineral spirits. This is an excellent degreaser
and tar remover. Use an old toothbrush to clean the chain. *Don't use
gasoline*.
"Jay Chan" wrote in message
om...
I have a question on what I should use on the chain in a bicyle and
for gear inside a lawn mower. Normally, I would use grease for this
stuff. But I come across a product call Dry-Lub that is supposed to be
dry to touch. I think this sounds great for putting it in the chain of
a bicyle to avoid dirty grease from getting into our pants. I have a
couple questions though:

- Is Dry-Lub appropriate for being used in a chain of a bicycle?

- Should I clean out all the grease from the chain first before
putting on Dry-Lub onto it? I think I should if I want to prevent
grease from getting onto my pants. What kind of solvent should I use
to remove the grease without damaging the metal chain?

- I have already bought a can of Dry-Lub. I doubt that I can use it
up just for the bicycle. I am wondering whether I can use the
remaining Dry-Lub in the gears of a lawn mower?

- Can I use it on metal surface of gardening tools to prevent rust?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Don't use gas you say , the only way to remove embedded crud is a
soaking. You will newer get into friction crevices, even if you spend
over an hr. Even then every link has semi sealed points of friction only
a wash has a chance of removing. Or else you are cleaning surface
dirt, not the friction points that actually wear. You only need to
remove the rear wheel, the chain then has enough play to move in
whatever solvent you choose. Ive done this for 30 yrs on bikes with
100$ chains. surface cleaning with a brush is that, surface cleaning.
For people that race or are enthusiasts this is normal practice for
least friction and longest wear. Maintain a bike or replace it often.

m Ransley wrote:
Don't use gas you say , the only way to remove embedded crud is a
soaking. You will newer get into friction crevices, even if you spend
over an hr. Even then every link has semi sealed points of friction
only a wash has a chance of removing. Or else you are cleaning
surface dirt, not the friction points that actually wear. You only
need to remove the rear wheel, the chain then has enough play to move
in whatever solvent you choose. Ive done this for 30 yrs on bikes
with 100$ chains. surface cleaning with a brush is that, surface
cleaning. For people that race or are enthusiasts this is normal
practice for least friction and longest wear. Maintain a bike or
replace it often.

Bad unsafe advice and wrong in so far as there are many safe solvents.
Maybe you would like to tell us how gasoline can get into a crevice that
Simple Green can't.

One additional note: some parts have rubber seals and gasoline can
damage them

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Bad advise Joe ?, I said drop the wheel and soak the chain, that is the
right way , sure there are lots of safer solvents, but you use alot and
gas is cheap. Harmfull to what the chain? no. Harmfull to other parts .
I havn`t had a problem, can you be specific, not generalise. You say to
clean chain on. Well I will tell you why this is the best way, Ive
tried it on, then unhappy soaked it, the crud removed my " Clean " chain
was amasing.
Tell ya what Joe , Next time you clean a chain clean it your way ,
When your done cleaning soak it in a clean solvent of you choise, Only
then will you understand . The easiest way to keep from replacing
expensive chains is extensive cleaning.

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
Bad advise Joe ?, I said drop the wheel and soak the chain, that is the
right way , sure there are lots of safer solvents, but you use alot and
gas is cheap.

Mineral spirits is onlt $3 a gallon. Filter the dirt out with a paint or
coffee filter and pour it back into the can for next time. Mineral spirits
will not burn like gasoline will.
Greg

m Ransley wrote:
Bad advise Joe ?, I said drop the wheel and soak the chain, that is
the right way , sure there are lots of safer solvents, but you use
alot and gas is cheap.

Ask you local fire department or your insurance company what they think
of your idea. It is a Buba idea. Not too swift.

Harmfull to what the chain? no.

Some chains have rubber seals. They can be damaged by gasoline. I
don't believe they are in common use.

Harmfull to
other parts . I havn`t had a problem, can you be specific, not
generalise.

How about your face. See above.

You say to clean chain on.

No I said "They even have chain cleaners so you don't need to remove the
chain to clean it."


Well I will tell you why
this is the best way, Ive tried it on, then unhappy soaked it, the
crud removed my " Clean " chain was amasing.

All else being equal I agree that removing the chain can result in a
better cleaning than not removing it. However the convenience of being able
to clean it in place will often mean it gets cleaned more often.

Tell ya what Joe , Next time you clean a chain clean it your way ,
When your done cleaning soak it in a clean solvent of you choise, Only
then will you understand . The easiest way to keep from replacing
expensive chains is extensive cleaning.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

A buba idea, only if around heat which could ignite it. But yes there
are more proper solvents that most should use.
So call me Bubba.

In article ,
"Joseph Meehan" wrote:

For the bike, stop by a bike shop. They have cleaner (really just the
orange or green stuff repackaged) that is effective and safe. DON'T use
gasoline as someone suggested. You can use the orange or green stuff from
the hardware store not the bike shop. For lube use the stuff the bike shops
have. It is formulated special for bikes. It is "dry" but goes on wet. It
will stay on better in the rain than other lubes and is less likely to drip
or stain clothing etc. Well worth the small cost. They even have chain
cleaners so you don't need to remove the chain to clean it.

What he said. The chain cleaners work pretty well. removing a chain off
a bike can be a pain, you need a chain tool, and some patience. Well
actually removing it is easy, getting it back on securely, without a
stiff link, can be hard.
Sue

No chain tool, drop rear wheel , leave chain on, chain is loose and has
play to work with. Yes a pain, but I ride trails and crud them up bad.

Use paint thinner made with mineral spirits. This is an excellent degreaser
and tar remover. Use an old toothbrush to clean the chain. *Don't use
gasoline*.

Seem like anything else is better than using Dry-Lube. Oh well, I will
have to use the Dry-Lube that I bought on door hinges and such that I
usually use WD-40 (that does't last).

Seem like no one seconds the idea of using WD-40 for lubricating the
chain as suggested by a salesman in Home Depot.

I probably will use paint-thinner because I have a whole can sitting
in my basement doing nothing (I have been using mostly latex paint
lately). Great, finally I can use it up for good reason. I will take
the chain down for a good cleaning. And then go to bike shop to see if
they have any clean stuff for lubricating the chain.

I will follow people advice and stick with grease for the lawn mower.
I believe grease is what the manufacturer recommends.

As for the metal gardening tools, I probably use dirty engine oil that
I removed from my lawn mower last year to oil them. This will be a way
of recyling. I just need to find a way to easily apply the engine oil
over the gardening tools -- may be a can and a brush and some paper
towel.

Thanks everyone for helping me with this.

Jay Chan

Jay Chan wrote:
Use paint thinner made with mineral spirits. This is an excellent
degreaser and tar remover. Use an old toothbrush to clean the chain.
*Don't use gasoline*.

Seem like anything else is better than using Dry-Lube. Oh well, I will
have to use the Dry-Lube that I bought on door hinges and such that I
usually use WD-40 (that does't last).

Seem like no one seconds the idea of using WD-40 for lubricating the
chain as suggested by a salesman in Home Depot.


Despite what the ads suggest WD-40 is NOT a lube, it is a solvent; a
very very light oil.

It would be better to use it as the solvent to clean the chain.


I probably will use paint-thinner because I have a whole can sitting
in my basement doing nothing (I have been using mostly latex paint
lately). Great, finally I can use it up for good reason. I will take
the chain down for a good cleaning. And then go to bike shop to see if
they have any clean stuff for lubricating the chain.

I will follow people advice and stick with grease for the lawn mower.
I believe grease is what the manufacturer recommends.

As for the metal gardening tools, I probably use dirty engine oil that
I removed from my lawn mower last year to oil them. This will be a way
of recyling. I just need to find a way to easily apply the engine oil
over the gardening tools -- may be a can and a brush and some paper
towel.

I have seen people who keep a bucket of sand with some old oil mixed in
for garden tools. Things like shovels can be stuck in there a couple of
time and the sand cleans them and the oil prevents future rust.


Thanks everyone for helping me with this.

Jay Chan

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

(Jay Chan) writes:
I just need to find a way to easily apply the engine oil over the
gardening tools -- may be a can and a brush and some paper

I've heard of folks getting a bucket of sand, pouring the oil in, then
stabbing the garden tools several times into the sand.
the sand helps clean the tool and the oil coats it "just enough".

I havn't tried this, but i imagine you might need a small whisk brrom
to brush the sand off.

--
be safe.
flip
Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?
Remove origin of the word spam from address to reply (leave "+")

(m Ransley) wrote in message ...
Don't use gas you say , the only way to remove embedded crud is a
soaking. You will newer get into friction crevices, even if you spend
over an hr. Even then every link has semi sealed points of friction only
a wash has a chance of removing. Or else you are cleaning surface
dirt, not the friction points that actually wear. You only need to
remove the rear wheel, the chain then has enough play to move in
whatever solvent you choose. Ive done this for 30 yrs on bikes with
100$ chains. surface cleaning with a brush is that, surface cleaning.
For people that race or are enthusiasts this is normal practice for
least friction and longest wear. Maintain a bike or replace it often.

$100 Chain? The chain on my $2500 Serrotta is a $30 chain. I don't
think I have even seen such a thing. And actually a road bike needs
very little maintence, the chain needing the most frequent attention.
Mtn bikes (or anything ridden in dirt is another matter.

Chain lube on a bike chain is like a religion, more at
www.sheldonbrown.com and rec.bicycles.tech (you may be tagged as a
troll if you mention chain lube!).

Despite what the ads suggest WD-40 is NOT a lube, it is a solvent; a
very very light oil.

It would be better to use it as the solvent to clean the chain.

Thanks for the confirmation. This was the reason why I didn't buy
WD-40 when I was in Home Depot on that day.

I have seen people who keep a bucket of sand with some old oil mixed in
for garden tools. Things like shovels can be stuck in there a couple of
time and the sand cleans them and the oil prevents future rust.

Yes, I also saw this being done in a gardening TV show "Gardening by
the Yards". I choose not to do this because I don't have any more
bucket. I have used up all the drywall compound buckets from my last
home improvement project for various purposes (fishing, car wash,
....). I will have to make do with the "paper towel" approach. Thanks
for the suggestion though.

Jay Chan