I'm working on a 52" projection tv. Started out as a dead set. I replaced
the shorted HOT, and the standby B+ came up to 146 vdc. The chassis ran
for about 10 minutes, then I heard a pop, and it went back to a dead set
condition. The new Horiz Out Xistor probably shorted, but any suggestions
as to what else to check ? Thanks.

Change the blue block caps and damper diodes
and check the HV Block...
Make sure that B+ does not rise ..

kip

Is there possibly a current regulating resistor, large possibly brown with
burn stains?

if the horiz out exploded again either its from too much voltage or too much
current, and Id bet the latter.

"boater" wrote in message
lkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
I'm working on a 52" projection tv. Started out as a dead set. I replaced
the shorted HOT, and the standby B+ came up to 146 vdc. The chassis ran
for about 10 minutes, then I heard a pop, and it went back to a dead set
condition. The new Horiz Out Xistor probably shorted, but any suggestions
as to what else to check ? Thanks.

Dont forget its basically a tuned circuit ....change those blue box caps.

kip


Is there possibly a current regulating resistor, large possibly brown with
burn stains?

if the horiz out exploded again either its from too much voltage or too much
current, and Id bet the latter.

"boater" wrote in message
lkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
I'm working on a 52" projection tv. Started out as a dead set. I replaced
the shorted HOT, and the standby B+ came up to 146 vdc. The chassis ran
for about 10 minutes, then I heard a pop, and it went back to a dead set
condition. The new Horiz Out Xistor probably shorted, but any suggestions
as to what else to check ? Thanks.

When I said that the unit ran for 10 minutes, it was with a "normal"
picture ; no apparent deflection problems. I would think that if the
damper diodes were defective, I would see a distorted picture. Thanks.

When I said that the unit ran for 10 minutes, it was with a "normal"
picture ; no apparent deflection problems. I would think that if the
damper diodes were defective, I would see a distorted picture. Thanks.


Are you using the 200167 from RCA or some el chepo one ?

kip

Using the NTE2324. At $9.92 ea. it ain't cheap ! I was thinking about the
SANYO 2SD1885. It looks like the same specs and sells for 1.59.

As I look at the pc board, C4104 was replaced at some point, and the HOT I
removed was labeled D1885. This had worked for several years so I think
that the Sanyo part is a good bet.

200167 Get one...
kip

MCM has em

One other question... some of the other posts I've read talk about using a
variac to control the ac input or use a light bulb in series with the B+
to limit the current while troubleshooting. Any experience in this area ?

Sometimes when all else fails you need the 503K crystal off the jungle IC.
That's pretty much the only Hdrive problem they get that kills the HOT.
Everything else seems to be on the load side, and usually there is something
wrong with the raster then.

JURB