Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine.

All I have is a $65 5/8 chuck drill I picked up at a yard sale and I've done
it quite a few times using Silver & Deming bits. :-) I usually pilot drill
1/4" or so first and maybe another step in between and I use cutting oil.

Be sure you by quality bits though!

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"Even if you are on the right track, you'll
get run over if you just sit there."
- Will Rogers (1879-1935).


"knob" wrote in message
link.net...
Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob wrote:

Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

First a little more info is needed. What's the horse power of the
drill press? What's the lowest speed setting?

Anyway with those options I'd say rotabroach would be the best
option. However with care it's possible to use Silver & Demming bits.
A reaming approach must be used. Drill to 1/2" using what ever method
you usually use. Then ream in 1/8" increments. Higher horsepower lower
speed drill presses can sometimes manage bigger increments.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook

The biggest problems I find with the small inexpensive drill presses is
the lack of a really low speed, Some of them only go as low as 300rpm.
I find this a little fast even for light cuts with the S&D drills. I
have a Rotabroach I use in my Benchtop mill which I find works really
well. A straight shank holder and a 1" at KBC runs for about $70, the
arbor has 3 flats to prevent slippage. You can also get it in a MT2 for
a bit more.

Wayne Cook wrote:
On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob wrote:


Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).


First a little more info is needed. What's the horse power of the
drill press? What's the lowest speed setting?

Anyway with those options I'd say rotabroach would be the best
option. However with care it's possible to use Silver & Demming bits.
A reaming approach must be used. Drill to 1/2" using what ever method
you usually use. Then ream in 1/8" increments. Higher horsepower lower
speed drill presses can sometimes manage bigger increments.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook

--
James P Crombie
Slemon Park, PEI
Canada
Machinist - 3D Cad Design - Amateur Astronomer

http://www.jamescrombie.com

What's KBC?

Machineman wrote:
The biggest problems I find with the small inexpensive drill presses is
the lack of a really low speed, Some of them only go as low as 300rpm.
I find this a little fast even for light cuts with the S&D drills. I
have a Rotabroach I use in my Benchtop mill which I find works really
well. A straight shank holder and a 1" at KBC runs for about $70, the
arbor has 3 flats to prevent slippage. You can also get it in a MT2 for
a bit more.

Wayne Cook wrote:

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob wrote:


Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).



First a little more info is needed. What's the horse power of the
drill press? What's the lowest speed setting?

Anyway with those options I'd say rotabroach would be the best
option. However with care it's possible to use Silver & Demming bits.
A reaming approach must be used. Drill to 1/2" using what ever method
you usually use. Then ream in 1/8" increments. Higher horsepower lower
speed drill presses can sometimes manage bigger increments.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook

knob writes:

I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press.

Years ago I did exactly that with a Delta floor drill press and import S+D
bits when that was all I had, through 3/4" mild steel bars. Use cutting
oil.

You might consider hole saws.
"knob" wrote in message
link.net...
Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

In article .net,
knob wrote:

Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).


Rotabroach all the way.
I have some that screw onto a standard holesaw arbor.

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob wrote:

Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

Ive drilled 1.25 holes with a similar drill press using S&D type bits.
Actually MT3 shanked bits that I OD ground to 5/8 shank

Took a while, and I had to sharpen to a 118' angle and then pecked
carefully

Gunner

"There is no difference between communism and socialism, except
in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism
proposes to enslave men by force, socialism - by vote. It is
merely the difference between murder and suicide."
- Ayn Rand, from "Foreign Policy Drains U.S. of Main
Weapons"

I use my el-cheapo import floor model with S&D bits up to 1" on heavy
steel stock. Projects like drilling 3/4" or 7/8" holes in 1/2" stock for
trailer hitch balls, etc. Not great, works ok. Biggest problem is that
the belts want to slip when the going gets heavy, you really can't
always get the full 1/2hp nameplate specs. Use a 1/4" or so pilot drill
to match the web, use oil, go slow. Cheap S&D bits may not be ground the
same on both sides, the bit may want to wander.

knob wrote:
Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

Would you rather use morse taper bits or the S&D bits
(if given the choice) in such a machine?

RoyJ wrote:

I use my el-cheapo import floor model with S&D bits up to 1" on heavy
steel stock. Projects like drilling 3/4" or 7/8" holes in 1/2" stock for
trailer hitch balls, etc. Not great, works ok. Biggest problem is that
the belts want to slip when the going gets heavy, you really can't
always get the full 1/2hp nameplate specs. Use a 1/4" or so pilot drill
to match the web, use oil, go slow. Cheap S&D bits may not be ground the
same on both sides, the bit may want to wander.

knob wrote:

Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 02:53:57 GMT, knob wrote:

Would you rather use morse taper bits or the S&D bits
(if given the choice) in such a machine?


No question here. The morse taper wins hands down in my book. I've
used them extensively in the past. Of course currently I only have S&D
bits in the 17/32" to 1" range but if I'm only going to have one or
the other then it's got to be S&D. I can use them in hand drills or
anything that'll chuck 1/2". Morse taper is limited to my drill
presses, lathes, and two large air drills. One of these days I'm going
to increase my collection of morse taper bits in this mid range.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook

The Morse Taper bits are a much better choice. But mostly becuase the MT
bits are likely to be much better steel and quality than the S&D
bits.All production will be done with MT, never with S&D. So all the
used ones will be MT. I have no MT bits so I don't even remember what
the spindle in my drill press is. IIRC #2 MT???

knob wrote:
Would you rather use morse taper bits or the S&D bits
(if given the choice) in such a machine?

RoyJ wrote:

I use my el-cheapo import floor model with S&D bits up to 1" on heavy
steel stock. Projects like drilling 3/4" or 7/8" holes in 1/2" stock
for trailer hitch balls, etc. Not great, works ok. Biggest problem is
that the belts want to slip when the going gets heavy, you really
can't always get the full 1/2hp nameplate specs. Use a 1/4" or so
pilot drill to match the web, use oil, go slow. Cheap S&D bits may not
be ground the same on both sides, the bit may want to wander.

knob wrote:

Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

knob wrote:
Would you rather use morse taper bits or the S&D bits
(if given the choice) in such a machine?


No contest , Morse . First thing I look for every time no matter what I
am drilling . Lucked out and got about 50 lbs with my lathe . No idea
what brands and they are old but every one a gem ;-)
Ken Cutt

I think you can succeed with using the Silver & Deming drill bits. However I
would recommend you sneak up on the final size in steps, firmly clamp your work
piece to the table, and run at low speed using plenty of cutting oil. Good
luck, JM

APT makes a system just for the purpose of drilling large holes with a low
power, less than rigid machine. It starts with a 1/2 inch conventional drill.
Then switches to a piloted holder with interchangeable spade bit type cutters.
Works quite well. I may have a spare set or at least part of a set that I
would be willing to part with. Email me at if you are
interested -- but unfortunately it will be about two weeks before I can check
and get back to you.

Mill


Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I am not saure what Silver and Deming bits actually are, because when
I searched, there were all sorts of mentions of "Silver and Deming
Type bits" etc etc with sets of 8 at $20.00 US.

However, I regularly drill 1" and even 1.25" holes in mild steel, up
to and including 1" thick, on a 12-speed(min 200 RPM) moderately cheap
drill press. I do have to say it was "moderately cheap" 12 years ago,
and I see them now for the same dollars I paid then. So it's propbably
better than I realise! G

Sharp bit, start with a pilot of maybe 1/4", just to clear the tip of
the 1". Use cutting / lubricating material. I use Trefolex, which is
grease-based. Messy stuff, but effective.

It's ....well....boring! A bit slow, but it works OK. I get nice long
shavings off the bit.

An aside, and I probably shouldn't. To prevent "breaking the handles"
I have been known, toward the end of a long afternoon, to hold one
handle and rest my forearm on the next closer one for that bit extra.

Crikey! I've done it using a hand drill! Now _that's_ horrible,
dangerous and hard on bits!

Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

************************************************** ***
It's not the milk and honey we hate. It's having it
rammed down our throats.

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I suppose the question is, "What's 'some' mean and how much time do
you have?"

Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).

************************************************** ***
It's not the milk and honey we hate. It's having it
rammed down our throats.

In article ,
Old Nick wrote:
On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I am not saure what Silver and Deming bits actually are, because when
I searched, there were all sorts of mentions of "Silver and Deming
Type bits" etc etc with sets of 8 at $20.00 US.

They are sets of bits ranging above 1/2" up to 1" (I don't
believe that the sets go any larger than that), all with reduced shanks
to fit a 1/2" chuck. If you are lucky, you can even find a set with
three equally spaced flats milled on the shanks, to reduce the chance of
slipping in the chuck.

The name may be local to the USA -- I'm not sure. It presumably
originates from the first large-scale vendor of such modified bits.

Enjoy,
Don.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 12:03:49 +0800, Old Nick
wrote:

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I am not saure what Silver and Deming bits actually are, because when
I searched, there were all sorts of mentions of "Silver and Deming
Type bits" etc etc with sets of 8 at $20.00 US.

However, I regularly drill 1" and even 1.25" holes in mild steel, up
to and including 1" thick, on a 12-speed(min 200 RPM) moderately cheap
drill press. I do have to say it was "moderately cheap" 12 years ago,
and I see them now for the same dollars I paid then. So it's propbably
better than I realise! G

Sharp bit, start with a pilot of maybe 1/4", just to clear the tip of
the 1". Use cutting / lubricating material. I use Trefolex, which is
grease-based. Messy stuff, but effective.

It's ....well....boring! A bit slow, but it works OK. I get nice long
shavings off the bit.
Which means you are successful at bit sharpening

An aside, and I probably shouldn't. To prevent "breaking the handles"
I have been known, toward the end of a long afternoon, to hold one
handle and rest my forearm on the next closer one for that bit extra.
Doesn't everybody?

Crikey! I've done it using a hand drill! Now _that's_ horrible,
dangerous and hard on bits!
Especially the "big one" when you are drilling the perimeter channel
of the platform ten feet above ground and the bit grabs as you break
through!


Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On 9 Aug 2004 00:43:23 -0400, (DoN. Nichols) wrote:

In article ,
Old Nick wrote:
On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I am not saure what Silver and Deming bits actually are, because when
I searched, there were all sorts of mentions of "Silver and Deming
Type bits" etc etc with sets of 8 at $20.00 US.

They are sets of bits ranging above 1/2" up to 1" (I don't
believe that the sets go any larger than that), all with reduced shanks
to fit a 1/2" chuck. If you are lucky, you can even find a set with
three equally spaced flats milled on the shanks, to reduce the chance of
slipping in the chuck.

The name may be local to the USA -- I'm not sure. It presumably
originates from the first large-scale vendor of such modified bits.

Enjoy,
Don.

Known as blacksmith's drills in the Empire :-)

Mark Rand
RTFM

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 05:21:20 GMT, Gerald Miller
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

It's ....well....boring! A bit slow, but it works OK. I get nice long
shavings off the bit.
Which means you are successful at bit sharpening

Yes. I seem to have the feel for it on anything over 1/4" or maybe
even 3/16 in a pinch. I use a belt sander, not a grinder.


An aside, and I probably shouldn't. To prevent "breaking the handles"
I have been known, toward the end of a long afternoon, to hold one
handle and rest my forearm on the next closer one for that bit extra.
Doesn't everybody?

Oh....right. Good, then G


Crikey! I've done it using a hand drill! Now _that's_ horrible,
dangerous and hard on bits!
Especially the "big one" when you are drilling the perimeter channel
of the platform ten feet above ground and the bit grabs as you break
through!

Sounds like more than the drilBIT could get hurt doing that. Never
tried that trick. I _have_ nearly broken my thumb.
************************************************** ***
It's not the milk and honey we hate. It's having it
rammed down our throats.

On 9 Aug 2004 00:43:23 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

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I am not saure what Silver and Deming bits actually are, because when
I searched, there were all sorts of mentions of "Silver and Deming
Type bits" etc etc with sets of 8 at $20.00 US.

They are sets of bits ranging above 1/2" up to 1" (I don't
believe that the sets go any larger than that), all with reduced shanks
to fit a 1/2" chuck. If you are lucky, you can even find a set with
three equally spaced flats milled on the shanks, to reduce the chance of
slipping in the chuck.

The name may be local to the USA -- I'm not sure. It presumably
originates from the first large-scale vendor of such modified bits.

Ta. I thought that must be the case, because as I said, I was seeing
all sorts of sets with the same "name".
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On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 08:05:42 +0100, Mark Rand
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

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Known as blacksmith's drills in the Empire :-)

But I thought they were _Silver and Deming_ in the US.......G

I've just known them as reduced shank.

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1. some: adj., Being an unspecified number or quantity.
2. Hopefully 50-60 years yet.


Old Nick wrote:
On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:20:34 GMT, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:

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I suppose the question is, "What's 'some' mean and how much time do
you have?"


Having been a machinist for 8 years I know very well how
to drill holes. I'm well used to drilling/core drilling/
reaming up to 3" in mild steel. Problem is this... I am
no longer a machinist for a living. I don't have access
to all the large Bickford/Archdale drill presses like I
used to. I need to drill some 3/4 and 7/8 holes in mild
steel at home and all I have is a $150 5/8 chuck drill
press. I have never tried to drill such large holes
with such a poor machine. The way I see it is:

1. Silver & Deming bits.
2. Knock out the chuck and use the #2 MT.
3. Rotabroach style cutter.
4. Flame cut/file. (please don't pick this option)

Can such a machine actually drill with a 7/8 bit
in mild steel? I have a feeling that I will break
the feed handle. Do I need to go with the rotabroach
style cutter? (expensive and I don't know if they work
with a regular chuck).


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On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 13:42:35 -0400, knob vaguely
proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

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Well, if it's just for the occasional, then go for it. I use
reduced-shank bits, 200 RPM, and patience.

1. some: adj., Being an unspecified number or quantity.
2. Hopefully 50-60 years yet.

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On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 16:09:50 +0800, Old Nick
wrote:



Crikey! I've done it using a hand drill! Now _that's_ horrible,
dangerous and hard on bits!
Especially the "big one" when you are drilling the perimeter channel
of the platform ten feet above ground and the bit grabs as you break
through!

Sounds like more than the drilBIT could get hurt doing that. Never
tried that trick. I _have_ nearly broken my thumb.
It DOES hurt when you get to ground level ten milliseconds after
breakthrough!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 01:08:25 GMT, Gerald Miller
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

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Hmp-hmp! Through the hole? G

It DOES hurt when you get to ground level ten milliseconds after
breakthrough!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

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