Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case. Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/

Bob La Londe wrote:

Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case. Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/



TIG?

On 1/10/2012 6:31 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
....

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan ...but
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. ...

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/
....

Looks like you have the pieces; why not just weld 'em back on and rebalance?

--

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:40:14 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case. Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/



TIG?
I'd silver braze, myself - or silicon braze. Tigging castings is
possible, but not as simple. My buddy would likely "tig braze" it.

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 1/10/2012 6:31 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
...

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by
a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan ...but
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. ...

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/
...

Looks like you have the pieces; why not just weld 'em back on and
rebalance?

Its beyond my welding ability. I don't have a TIG, and while the thickness
is within the range of my MIG, I am pretty sure I would just vaporize that
porous aluminum casting. (looks about like pot metal) Tomorrow If I have
time I'll go by Mike's Metalworks and see if he thinks he can weld it.

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:09:59 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"dpb" wrote in message ...
On 1/10/2012 6:31 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
...

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by
a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan ...but
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. ...

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/
...

Looks like you have the pieces; why not just weld 'em back on and
rebalance?

Its beyond my welding ability. I don't have a TIG, and while the thickness
is within the range of my MIG, I am pretty sure I would just vaporize that
porous aluminum casting. (looks about like pot metal) Tomorrow If I have
time I'll go by Mike's Metalworks and see if he thinks he can weld it.


The darn thing is ALUMINUM??? It looked like grey cast to me in the
picture.

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 17:31:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

D252999.
Have you tried Jenkins????
http://www.jenkins.com/Portals/0/Jen...%20-%20web.pdf

Betcha they have what you need.

wrote:

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:40:14 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case. Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/



TIG?
I'd silver braze, myself - or silicon braze. Tigging castings is
possible, but not as simple. My buddy would likely "tig braze" it.

Looks like it would fit a Priority Mail box... send it to Ernie...

On 1/10/2012 7:14 PM, wrote:
wrote in message ...
....
Looks like you have the pieces; why not just weld 'em back on and
rebalance?

Its beyond my welding ability. I don't have a TIG, and while the thickness
is within the range of my MIG, I am pretty sure I would just vaporize that
porous aluminum casting. (looks about like pot metal) Tomorrow If I have
time I'll go by Mike's Metalworks and see if he thinks he can weld it.


The darn thing is ALUMINUM??? It looked like grey cast to me in the
picture.

Surely looks like it to me too, but I guess he's there...

--

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:57:22 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 1/10/2012 7:14 PM, wrote:
wrote in message ...
...
Looks like you have the pieces; why not just weld 'em back on and
rebalance?

Its beyond my welding ability. I don't have a TIG, and while the thickness
is within the range of my MIG, I am pretty sure I would just vaporize that
porous aluminum casting. (looks about like pot metal) Tomorrow If I have
time I'll go by Mike's Metalworks and see if he thinks he can weld it.


The darn thing is ALUMINUM??? It looked like grey cast to me in the
picture.

Surely looks like it to me too, but I guess he's there...
My magnet doesn't stick from here.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:57:22 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 1/10/2012 7:14 PM, wrote:
wrote in message
...
...
Looks like you have the pieces; why not just weld 'em back on and
rebalance?

Its beyond my welding ability. I don't have a TIG, and while the
thickness
is within the range of my MIG, I am pretty sure I would just vaporize
that
porous aluminum casting. (looks about like pot metal) Tomorrow If I
have
time I'll go by Mike's Metalworks and see if he thinks he can weld it.


The darn thing is ALUMINUM??? It looked like grey cast to me in the
picture.

Surely looks like it to me too, but I guess he's there...
My magnet doesn't stick from here.


What is "grey cast" and no a magnet doesn't stick. Not even a rare earth
magnet.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

wrote:

On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:40:14 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Bob La Londe wrote:

Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that
Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back
case. Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a
hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two
broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I
stopped by a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may
or may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set
screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a
little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of
machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is
somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it
Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources
for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on
the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter.
It is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when
checked with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no
doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when
it was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/



TIG?
I'd silver braze, myself - or silicon braze. Tigging castings is
possible, but not as simple. My buddy would likely "tig braze" it.

Looks like it would fit a Priority Mail box... send it to Ernie...

Now THAT sounds like an idea.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case.
Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a
hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by
a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or
may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a
little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is
somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it
Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It
is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked
with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no
doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it
was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/




I might actually might have a fan that's off of a toasted 184T ( 112M )
frame motor that might actually fit that so suggest hold off till tomorrow
mid-morning when I can take a look.

Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac muffin fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comair-Rotro...em3a6ddd 759c

On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac muffin fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.


This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at low
motor speed.

i

"Ignoramus6358" wrote in message
...
On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT
wrote:
Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac muffin
fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.


This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at low
motor speed.


I would probably just break off the 2 blades opposite and forget about it.

Not to suggest someone else should do that though....

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus6358" wrote in message
...
On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT
wrote:
Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac muffin
fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.


This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at low
motor speed.


I would probably just break off the 2 blades opposite and forget about it.

Not to suggest someone else should do that though....

I already thought of that. I do plan on working this motor though. I did
also consider a 110V muffin fan. Both of those options are probably OK for
my own use, but being the OCD person that I am I wanted to try replacing the
fan first if I could.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus6358" wrote in message
...
On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT
wrote:
Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac
muffin fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.


This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at low
motor speed.


I would probably just break off the 2 blades opposite and forget about
it.

Not to suggest someone else should do that though....

I already thought of that.

I'll bet I beat you to it by at least a couple decades G

I do plan on working this motor though. I did also consider a 110V
muffin fan. Both of those options are probably OK for my own use, but
being the OCD person that I am I wanted to try replacing the fan first if
I could.


The muffin fan is good because it provides steady airflow regardless of
motor speed...

Whereas the airflow from fan that's mounted on the motor shaft basically
drops clear down to nothing when running at slow rpms.

It's not surprising that the impeller is a diecast alloy (better than
plastic, anyway).

Parts such as the fins merging into the disk portion are a great example of
the versatility and practicality of using the magic/miracle aluminum repair
rods.

Every HSM should become experienced with using these rods because eventually
everyone encounters a broken part like this.

In less time than it takes to search for a replacement part, generally, an
odd or unusual part can be solidly repaired and put back into use.
Even if the impeller blade tips were missing, it wouldn't be difficult to
fabricate a couple from sheet aluminum and weld them into place with the
repair rod.. about a half-hour job at an expense of maybe $5 for gas and a
rod.

I wouldn't recommend the impeller for a practice piece.. better to practice
on scraps and/or some parts that can easily be replaced before attempting
something less common.

Becoming familiar with the ease of use of the repair rods could even be
preferred to using a TIG machine for a small job like this, even if the TIG
were available.

MAPP gas with a turbo-type torch works well for use with the repair rods,
much better than propane, IME.

For thin cross-sectional parts, the workpiece can be backed up with a steel
scrap or heavy gage sheetmetal to support and align the loose piece into
place.

If balancing a rotating part is critical, a small piece of aluminum can be
welded on directly across from the repair, then gradually remove material
for balancing.. although I doubt that balancing this part would be critical
because of the mass of the rotor (the mass of the ass is equal to...).

Since the motor has an integral fan motor, this impeller is merely an assist
to air flow, it seems.

As far as the error/difference in caliper measurements, a small error can be
expected when measuring bores because the ID jaws have small flats on them
(despite the wide chamfer) which don't seat fully in the concave arc of the
hole.

--
WB
..........


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case.
Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a
hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by
a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or
may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a
little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is
somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it
Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It
is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked
with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no
doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it
was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus6358" wrote in message
...

On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT
wrote:

Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac
muffin fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.


This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at low
motor speed.


I would probably just break off the 2 blades opposite and forget about
it.

Not to suggest someone else should do that though....

I already thought of that.


I'll bet I beat you to it by at least a couple decades G


I do plan on working this motor though. I did also consider a 110V
muffin fan. Both of those options are probably OK for my own use, but
being the OCD person that I am I wanted to try replacing the fan first if
I could.



The muffin fan is good because it provides steady airflow regardless of
motor speed...

Whereas the airflow from fan that's mounted on the motor shaft basically
drops clear down to nothing when running at slow rpms.



I thought it had already been determined in an earlier thread on this
motor that the fan has a separate supply to the main motor and is to be
provided with its own supply at 60Hz, or whatever is appropriate, so it
provides a constant cooling airflow regardless of the main motor speed.

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in
message ...

"Ignoramus6358" wrote in message
...

On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT
wrote:

Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac
muffin fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.


This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at low
motor speed.


I would probably just break off the 2 blades opposite and forget about
it.

Not to suggest someone else should do that though....

I already thought of that.


I'll bet I beat you to it by at least a couple decades G


I do plan on working this motor though. I did also consider a 110V
muffin fan. Both of those options are probably OK for my own use, but
being the OCD person that I am I wanted to try replacing the fan first
if I could.



The muffin fan is good because it provides steady airflow regardless of
motor speed...

Whereas the airflow from fan that's mounted on the motor shaft basically
drops clear down to nothing when running at slow rpms.



I thought it had already been determined in an earlier thread on this
motor that the fan has a separate supply to the main motor and is to be
provided with its own supply at 60Hz, or whatever is appropriate, so it
provides a constant cooling airflow regardless of the main motor speed.

The op found that several vanes had been broken off of the original fan.

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"David Billington" wrote in message
...

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...


"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in
message ...


"Ignoramus6358" wrote in message
...


On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT
wrote:


Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac
muffin fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter is
powered up.



This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at low
motor speed.



I would probably just break off the 2 blades opposite and forget about
it.

Not to suggest someone else should do that though....


I already thought of that.


I'll bet I beat you to it by at least a couple decades G



I do plan on working this motor though. I did also consider a 110V
muffin fan. Both of those options are probably OK for my own use, but
being the OCD person that I am I wanted to try replacing the fan first
if I could.



The muffin fan is good because it provides steady airflow regardless of
motor speed...

Whereas the airflow from fan that's mounted on the motor shaft basically
drops clear down to nothing when running at slow rpms.




I thought it had already been determined in an earlier thread on this
motor that the fan has a separate supply to the main motor and is to be
provided with its own supply at 60Hz, or whatever is appropriate, so it
provides a constant cooling airflow regardless of the main motor speed.


The op found that several vanes had been broken off of the original fan.



Yes hence this thread started by the OP. I had assumed from your comment
that I responded to that you weren't aware of the separately powered
fan, but you seem to be so my apologies.

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"David Billington" wrote in message
...

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...


"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in
message ...


"Ignoramus6358" wrote in message
...


On 2012-01-11, PrecisionmachinisT
wrote:


Other than that, suggest simply remove it and attach a 6in 110vac
muffin fan
onto the rear shroud and just keep it running anytime the inverter
is
powered up.



This is what I would do, also. The extra plus is better cooling at
low
motor speed.



I would probably just break off the 2 blades opposite and forget
about it.

Not to suggest someone else should do that though....


I already thought of that.


I'll bet I beat you to it by at least a couple decades G



I do plan on working this motor though. I did also consider a 110V
muffin fan. Both of those options are probably OK for my own use, but
being the OCD person that I am I wanted to try replacing the fan first
if I could.



The muffin fan is good because it provides steady airflow regardless of
motor speed...

Whereas the airflow from fan that's mounted on the motor shaft
basically drops clear down to nothing when running at slow rpms.




I thought it had already been determined in an earlier thread on this
motor that the fan has a separate supply to the main motor and is to be
provided with its own supply at 60Hz, or whatever is appropriate, so it
provides a constant cooling airflow regardless of the main motor speed.


The op found that several vanes had been broken off of the original fan.


Yes hence this thread started by the OP. I had assumed from your comment
that I responded to that you weren't aware of the separately powered fan,
but you seem to be so my apologies.

Hey man no prob..

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message news:auKdncAj94ylhZDSnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case.
Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a
hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped by
a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or
may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a
little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is
somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it
Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It
is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked
with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no
doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it
was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/




I might actually might have a fan that's off of a toasted 184T ( 112M )
frame motor that might actually fit that so suggest hold off till tomorrow
mid-morning when I can take a look.


Couldn't find the fan although I'm sure it's kicking around here someplace....however, I did locate the burnt out motor carcass and looking at it I'd say the fan is probably only about 6in diameter and bored to mount up to about a 1in shaft diameter and probably it won't work for you anyways....

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:RoqdnS3uIq0CbJDSnZ2dnUVZ_jqdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:auKdncAj94ylhZDSnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Now onto the next problem. The reason I pulled the cover on that Leland
motor in the first place was because there was a dent in the back case.
Now
that I have the wiring figured out I need to address that... with a
hammer.
And the more serious damage from whatever dented that housing. Two
broken
blades on the cooling fan.

I figured finding an exact replacement was probably a no go. I stopped
by
a
local motor shop and they want to order in a blank arbor fan that may or
may
not fit and then bore it to fit to be held on with a couple set screws.
That may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought it sounded a
little
pricey for a fan blade. Even with a legitimate 30-45 minutes of machine
work to make it fit my motor if it fits the space available.

I am looking at other options first. The first and least likely is
somebody
saying, "I have one of those on my junk pile. How about $XX.xx for it
Bob?"

Searching with google for industrial motor cooling fans is beyond my
Internet savvy. I can find thousands of motors, but finding sources for
fans blades is a bit trickier.

Its off the cooling motor on a Leland 6273. The part number molded on
the
blade is D252999. The fan is approximately 9.75 inches in diameter. It
is
about 1.380 inches tall, and has a concave base. The bore when checked
with
a caliper is .650 +/- The motor shaft measures at .660 so there is no
doubt
some flaw in my technique.

There is an old grind mark that looks like the fan was balanced when it
was
new.

Picture can be seen he
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/lelandfan.jpg/




I might actually might have a fan that's off of a toasted 184T ( 112M )
frame motor that might actually fit that so suggest hold off till
tomorrow
mid-morning when I can take a look.


Couldn't find the fan although I'm sure it's kicking around here
someplace....however, I did locate the burnt out motor carcass and
looking at it I'd say the fan is probably only about 6in diameter and
bored to mount up to about a 1in shaft diameter and probably it won't work
for you anyways....

Thanks PM. I appreciate you looking. I could always make a bushing, but I
think Jenkins may have something I can make work.

Bob La Londe Inscribed thus:

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:57:22 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 1/10/2012 7:14 PM, wrote:
wrote in message
...
...
Looks like you have the pieces; why not just weld 'em back on and
rebalance?

Its beyond my welding ability. I don't have a TIG, and while the
thickness
is within the range of my MIG, I am pretty sure I would just
vaporize that
porous aluminum casting. (looks about like pot metal) Tomorrow
If I have
time I'll go by Mike's Metalworks and see if he thinks he can weld
it.


The darn thing is ALUMINUM??? It looked like grey cast to me in the
picture.

Surely looks like it to me too, but I guess he's there...
My magnet doesn't stick from here.


What is "grey cast" and no a magnet doesn't stick. Not even a rare
earth magnet.

Its monkey metal ! (Mazak alloy).

--
Best Regards:
Baron.