I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

================================================== =============

Are these Oilite bearings? Likely so.

Here's my story: I have a motor-driven blower fan on my gas-fired furnace.
The piece-of-crap motor has Oilite bearings -- the front one is
self-aligning, and the rear one is plain. The motor was installed 25 years
ago and was supposed to last for 10 years, according to the installer.

Ten years was about right. That's when the bearings ran dry, the motor
seized, and I had to polish the armature shaft in my lathe (using stainless
polish) so it would run freely in the bearings again.

But there was still no oil in the old bearings. Replacement would have been
a big PITA. The motor is no longer made. So I started oiling them twice each
season. They've run perfectly for the last 15 years.

To oil them, I use a medical syringe with a couple of drops of South Bend
plain-bearing spindle oil. There is no chamfer on the bearings, so a drop
applied normally doesn't seem to get into them. I force it in with the
syringe.

I'd use some 0-20 Mobil 1 if I had it, but I have plenty of spindle oil, so
I use that. The first year I used Starrett Instrument Oil, and that worked
just fine, as well.

I have a couple of other cheap, ancient tools and motors with Oilite
bearings, and I treat them the same way. It doesn't require much oil. I
think the best bet is to use a very light, high-quality oil like the ones
I've listed above. I tried 20W motor oil in the past, and it doesn't seem to
work as well with Oilite.

Good luck.

--
Ed Huntress

On Oct 28, 9:05*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

The table fan probably has sleeve bearings, so cleaning and lubing
helps. Can kep it running for years if you do that regularly, clean
off the blades, too. If the exhaust fan is a bathroom type, it's
probably got shielded ball bearings if it's a good one, non-
shielded(and rusted) if it's not so good quality. If you've got room,
you might be able to cobble up a mount for a surplus 110v computer
fan, those I've gotten for as little as $5 new from equipment
breakers. Herbach and Rademan were one source. Those types of fans
aren't really meant to be serviced, you pitch them and get another.
My dad went the computer fan route, lasted 20 years, then he replaced
it with the spare when it got noisy. Lasted longer than he did.

For sleeve bearings, I use the turbine oil they sell at Ace for use
with swamp coolers and such.

Stan

Ed Huntress Inscribed thus:



"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.


Are these Oilite bearings? Likely so.

Here's my story: I have a motor-driven blower fan on my gas-fired
furnace. The piece-of-crap motor has Oilite bearings -- the front
one is self-aligning, and the rear one is plain. The motor was
installed 25 years ago and was supposed to last for 10 years,
according to the installer.

Ten years was about right. That's when the bearings ran dry, the
motor seized, and I had to polish the armature shaft in my lathe
(using stainless polish) so it would run freely in the bearings
again.

But there was still no oil in the old bearings. Replacement would
have been a big PITA. The motor is no longer made. So I started
oiling them twice each season. They've run perfectly for the last 15
years.

To oil them, I use a medical syringe with a couple of drops of South
Bend plain-bearing spindle oil. There is no chamfer on the bearings,
so a drop applied normally doesn't seem to get into them. I force it
in with the syringe.

I'd use some 0-20 Mobil 1 if I had it, but I have plenty of spindle
oil, so I use that. The first year I used Starrett Instrument Oil,
and that worked just fine, as well.

I have a couple of other cheap, ancient tools and motors with Oilite
bearings, and I treat them the same way. It doesn't require much oil.
I think the best bet is to use a very light, high-quality oil like
the ones I've listed above. I tried 20W motor oil in the past, and it
doesn't seem to work as well with Oilite.

Good luck.

Ed Huntress

Fine sewing machine oil works well for me ! Applied in the same way, a
drop or two from a redundant ink refill syringe.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

"Baron" wrote in message ...

Ed Huntress Inscribed thus:



"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.


Are these Oilite bearings? Likely so.

Here's my story: I have a motor-driven blower fan on my gas-fired
furnace. The piece-of-crap motor has Oilite bearings -- the front
one is self-aligning, and the rear one is plain. The motor was
installed 25 years ago and was supposed to last for 10 years,
according to the installer.

Ten years was about right. That's when the bearings ran dry, the
motor seized, and I had to polish the armature shaft in my lathe
(using stainless polish) so it would run freely in the bearings
again.

But there was still no oil in the old bearings. Replacement would
have been a big PITA. The motor is no longer made. So I started
oiling them twice each season. They've run perfectly for the last 15
years.

To oil them, I use a medical syringe with a couple of drops of South
Bend plain-bearing spindle oil. There is no chamfer on the bearings,
so a drop applied normally doesn't seem to get into them. I force it
in with the syringe.

I'd use some 0-20 Mobil 1 if I had it, but I have plenty of spindle
oil, so I use that. The first year I used Starrett Instrument Oil,
and that worked just fine, as well.

I have a couple of other cheap, ancient tools and motors with Oilite
bearings, and I treat them the same way. It doesn't require much oil.
I think the best bet is to use a very light, high-quality oil like
the ones I've listed above. I tried 20W motor oil in the past, and it
doesn't seem to work as well with Oilite.

Good luck.

Ed Huntress

Fine sewing machine oil works well for me ! Applied in the same way, a
drop or two from a redundant ink refill syringe.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Yeah, those are *very* light oils. But I have two different brands of it in
the house, that came with two brands of sewing machines years ago, and there
is a very large difference between them. The Singer oil is extremely thin.

BTW, I oil our Morse machine with Starrett Insttrument Oil now. It's heavier
than the Singer oil, and it seems to make the machine run much smoother and
quieter. I dunno...it may be doing some other harm, but it won't get gummy
in my lifetime, at least.

--
Ede Huntress

The table fan probably has sleeve bearings, so cleaning and lubing
helps. *Can kep it running for years if you do that regularly, clean
off the blades, too.

I think most of mine die when the dog hair blocks off the vent holes
and the motors overheat...
--Glenn Lyford

On Oct 28, 10:05*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

The key is to wire-brush off the old hard lube from the motor shaft
and out of the bearings, sometimes I even need to hit them with some
400 grit.


Dave

Ed Huntress Inscribed thus:



"Baron" wrote in message ...

Ed Huntress Inscribed thus:



"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.


Are these Oilite bearings? Likely so.

Here's my story: I have a motor-driven blower fan on my gas-fired
furnace. The piece-of-crap motor has Oilite bearings -- the front
one is self-aligning, and the rear one is plain. The motor was
installed 25 years ago and was supposed to last for 10 years,
according to the installer.

Ten years was about right. That's when the bearings ran dry, the
motor seized, and I had to polish the armature shaft in my lathe
(using stainless polish) so it would run freely in the bearings
again.

But there was still no oil in the old bearings. Replacement would
have been a big PITA. The motor is no longer made. So I started
oiling them twice each season. They've run perfectly for the last 15
years.

To oil them, I use a medical syringe with a couple of drops of South
Bend plain-bearing spindle oil. There is no chamfer on the bearings,
so a drop applied normally doesn't seem to get into them. I force it
in with the syringe.

I'd use some 0-20 Mobil 1 if I had it, but I have plenty of spindle
oil, so I use that. The first year I used Starrett Instrument Oil,
and that worked just fine, as well.

I have a couple of other cheap, ancient tools and motors with Oilite
bearings, and I treat them the same way. It doesn't require much
oil.
I think the best bet is to use a very light, high-quality oil like
the ones I've listed above. I tried 20W motor oil in the past, and
it doesn't seem to work as well with Oilite.

Good luck.

Ed Huntress

Fine sewing machine oil works well for me ! Applied in the same way, a
drop or two from a redundant ink refill syringe.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Yeah, those are *very* light oils. But I have two different brands of
it in the house, that came with two brands of sewing machines years
ago, and there is a very large difference between them. The Singer oil
is extremely thin.

BTW, I oil our Morse machine with Starrett Insttrument Oil now. It's
heavier than the Singer oil, and it seems to make the machine run much
smoother and quieter. I dunno...it may be doing some other harm, but
it won't get gummy in my lifetime, at least.

Yes, its the Singer oil that I use. Petrol works well to clean the crud
off the shafts, paticularly for fans. I've never had to resort to
abrasives. I also use it on router bit ball bearings ! It seems to
penetrate where 3 in one doesn't.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On 10/28/2011 9:05 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.
....

Particularly w/ the exhaust fans the problem is there's no thrust
bearing and the load of the shaft when it wears ends up w/ it rubbing
somewhere. A thin nylon washer/spacer is what it took to keep the one
here running--that's been 10+ yr now.

_May_ be similar problem w/ the load being horizontal and exerted by the
wind resistance to pull it outwards instead of in...

I just use an aerosol chain lube or something similar, whichever is the
handiest on the shelf at the time; it's light enough and the aerosol w/
the squirt tube will force it where it's wanted in general...

--

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 14:28:19 -0400
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

snip
Fine sewing machine oil works well for me ! Applied in the same way, a
drop or two from a redundant ink refill syringe.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Yeah, those are *very* light oils. But I have two different brands of it in
the house, that came with two brands of sewing machines years ago, and there
is a very large difference between them. The Singer oil is extremely thin.

BTW, I oil our Morse machine with Starrett Insttrument Oil now. It's heavier
than the Singer oil, and it seems to make the machine run much smoother and
quieter. I dunno...it may be doing some other harm, but it won't get gummy
in my lifetime, at least.

My understanding (from old manuals, blah, blah...) was that sewing
machine oil contained both a penetrant and lube. It was suppose to be
able to clear debris/crud but not produce any build up when it
eventually dries out. Sounds good in theory and would probably work
okay if you replenished it on a regular basis.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

================================================== =============

Are these Oilite bearings? Likely so.

Here's my story: I have a motor-driven blower fan on my gas-fired furnace.
The piece-of-crap motor has Oilite bearings -- the front one is
self-aligning, and the rear one is plain. The motor was installed 25 years
ago and was supposed to last for 10 years, according to the installer.

Ten years was about right. That's when the bearings ran dry, the motor
seized, and I had to polish the armature shaft in my lathe (using stainless
polish) so it would run freely in the bearings again.

But there was still no oil in the old bearings. Replacement would have been
a big PITA. The motor is no longer made. So I started oiling them twice each
season. They've run perfectly for the last 15 years.

To oil them, I use a medical syringe with a couple of drops of South Bend
plain-bearing spindle oil. There is no chamfer on the bearings, so a drop
applied normally doesn't seem to get into them. I force it in with the
syringe.

I'd use some 0-20 Mobil 1 if I had it, but I have plenty of spindle oil, so
I use that. The first year I used Starrett Instrument Oil, and that worked
just fine, as well.

I have a couple of other cheap, ancient tools and motors with Oilite
bearings, and I treat them the same way. It doesn't require much oil. I
think the best bet is to use a very light, high-quality oil like the ones
I've listed above. I tried 20W motor oil in the past, and it doesn't seem to
work as well with Oilite.

Good luck.

--
Ed Huntress


I've been using regular old 3-in-1 oil on both types of those fans
for decades. I've found that 10W oil is too viscous and slows the
fan. Sewing machine oil is too thin and doesn't last long enough.
The bath fans go for about 2 years between needing oiling. The
desk/portable fans get an annual oiling whether they need it or not.
I have tried cleaning the bushings and shafts with various solvents
but found that they cause the oil to gum up after a couple of months
of operation. Cleaning with 3-in-1 oil has yielded the best results.
After reassembly, but before the fan blade is put on, I whack the
shaft with a screwdriver which realigns the bushings so the shaft
spins freely.
Art

That three in one stuff dries out, rapidly. I havn't had
good results with that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Baron"
wrote in message ...

Fine sewing machine oil works well for me ! Applied in the
same way, a
drop or two from a redundant ink refill syringe.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

I used a bunch of flammable brake cleaner, outdoors. I've
heard of emery cloth. I neglected the emery cloth, this
time.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Dave__67" wrote in message
...

The key is to wire-brush off the old hard lube from the
motor shaft
and out of the bearings, sometimes I even need to hit them
with some
400 grit.


Dave

I tried a blast of good silicone spray, with the LRT. Lasted
less than an hour. So, I took the motor apart. Very simple
bearings, with no ball berrings. Clean that out with spray
of brake cleaner, and cotton swabs and spray oil.

Relube with zoom spout oil, and a pinch of powder graphite.
A couple hours later, it's still running. Time will be the
test.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:05:54 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

You lube them with a "Zoom Spout" Turbine Oil 10W non-detergent, clean
off the fan blades (half the time it's dust throwing it off balance)
and put it back.

Put on a new fan wheel/blade if it's hopelessly out of balance, you
aren't going to waste time trying to re-balance a $5 wheel. Or swap
the motor if the bearings are gone.

And if you shop around for Packard or Dayton generics, you can get
the damages down to around $20 each, far more reasonable.

It's all in the shaft diameter and length so the fan wheel fits, and
the lamination stack height on a shaded-pole motor is proportional to
the HP if you cant read the old motor's markings.

Most shaded-pole motors you can reverse the rotor and end-bells in the
stack to reverse the rotation, or reverse the mounting screws to
back-mount. Have 6-32 nuts handy if the new motor has threads in the
legs of the end-bells and it doesn't tighten up when assembled
backwards. And some housings the motor screws thread into the
baseplate at the rear.

You do NOT go to Nutone or Broan (or whomever) directly unless you
also need the rest of the assembly (fan blade and mounting bracket)
because someone yanked the whole thing (with bracket) to replace and
never put it back. They're all _real_ _ proud_ of their products.

-- Bruce --

On 10/28/2011 02:18 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I tried a blast of good silicone spray, with the LRT. Lasted
less than an hour. So, I took the motor apart. Very simple
bearings, with no ball berrings. Clean that out with spray
of brake cleaner, and cotton swabs and spray oil.

Relube with zoom spout oil, and a pinch of powder graphite.
A couple hours later, it's still running. Time will be the
test.

Oil or graphite, not both.
I tried oil/graphite mix on a weathervane that wouldn't turn freely.
That didn't work well at all, it became a thick gummy sludge.

I can't remember much about the end of the shafts, might be
needing a nylon washer. We'll find out after a while, I
guess.

Chain lube? Does that dry out?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dpb" wrote in message
...


Particularly w/ the exhaust fans the problem is there's no
thrust
bearing and the load of the shaft when it wears ends up w/
it rubbing
somewhere. A thin nylon washer/spacer is what it took to
keep the one
here running--that's been 10+ yr now.

_May_ be similar problem w/ the load being horizontal and
exerted by the
wind resistance to pull it outwards instead of in...

I just use an aerosol chain lube or something similar,
whichever is the
handiest on the shelf at the time; it's light enough and the
aerosol w/
the squirt tube will force it where it's wanted in
general...

--

That "regular basis" concerns me. I guess nothing is
forever.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Leon Fisk"
wrote in message ...

My understanding (from old manuals, blah, blah...) was that
sewing
machine oil contained both a penetrant and lube. It was
suppose to be
able to clear debris/crud but not produce any build up when
it
eventually dries out. Sounds good in theory and would
probably work
okay if you replenished it on a regular basis.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

I wonder about Remington gun oil? Though, two years is
reasonable.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Artemus" wrote in message
...

I've been using regular old 3-in-1 oil on both types of
those fans
for decades. I've found that 10W oil is too viscous and
slows the
fan. Sewing machine oil is too thin and doesn't last long
enough.
The bath fans go for about 2 years between needing oiling.
The
desk/portable fans get an annual oiling whether they need it
or not.
I have tried cleaning the bushings and shafts with various
solvents
but found that they cause the oil to gum up after a couple
of months
of operation. Cleaning with 3-in-1 oil has yielded the best
results.
After reassembly, but before the fan blade is put on, I
whack the
shaft with a screwdriver which realigns the bushings so the
shaft
spins freely.
Art

I think the bathroom vent fan was a Nutone, and it was about
$65. Ouch! John had the part number. I called one parts
house, NLA but they gave me the number of the motor. Another
parts house had it also NLA. I checked the plug terminals
for continuity, and suggested relube. ZSTO lasted several
weeks. I keep wondering what's next, to try.

I've tried ZSTO plus graphite in my table top fan. Will let
y'all know how that works.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message
...


You lube them with a "Zoom Spout" Turbine Oil 10W
non-detergent, clean
off the fan blades (half the time it's dust throwing it off
balance)
and put it back.

Put on a new fan wheel/blade if it's hopelessly out of
balance, you
aren't going to waste time trying to re-balance a $5 wheel.
Or swap
the motor if the bearings are gone.

And if you shop around for Packard or Dayton generics, you
can get
the damages down to around $20 each, far more reasonable.

It's all in the shaft diameter and length so the fan wheel
fits, and
the lamination stack height on a shaded-pole motor is
proportional to
the HP if you cant read the old motor's markings.

Most shaded-pole motors you can reverse the rotor and
end-bells in the
stack to reverse the rotation, or reverse the mounting
screws to
back-mount. Have 6-32 nuts handy if the new motor has
threads in the
legs of the end-bells and it doesn't tighten up when
assembled
backwards. And some housings the motor screws thread into
the
baseplate at the rear.

You do NOT go to Nutone or Broan (or whomever) directly
unless you
also need the rest of the assembly (fan blade and mounting
bracket)
because someone yanked the whole thing (with bracket) to
replace and
never put it back. They're all _real_ _ proud_ of their
products.

-- Bruce --

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 14:28:19 -0400
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

snip
Fine sewing machine oil works well for me ! Applied in the same way, a
drop or two from a redundant ink refill syringe.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Yeah, those are *very* light oils. But I have two different brands of it in
the house, that came with two brands of sewing machines years ago, and
there
is a very large difference between them. The Singer oil is extremely thin.

BTW, I oil our Morse machine with Starrett Insttrument Oil now. It's
heavier
than the Singer oil, and it seems to make the machine run much smoother and
quieter. I dunno...it may be doing some other harm, but it won't get gummy
in my lifetime, at least.

My understanding (from old manuals, blah, blah...) was that sewing
machine oil contained both a penetrant and lube. It was suppose to be
able to clear debris/crud but not produce any build up when it
eventually dries out. Sounds good in theory and would probably work
okay if you replenished it on a regular basis.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Yes, the Singer oil seems to be very penetrating, almost like Liquid Wrench.
I don't doubt it's the right stuff for most users, but our machine does not
have any lint in it. I regularly blow it out with an air hose. Maybe I'm
doing damage that way, too. g

But it's held up for roughly 30 years, and it runs perfectly. I do like that
Starrett oil.

--
Ed Huntress

Weathervane is outdoors. Which may need different lube than
indoor table fan, or a weather proofed bathroom fan.

Did you find a lube for your weathervane?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"beryl" wrote in message
...

Oil or graphite, not both.
I tried oil/graphite mix on a weathervane that wouldn't turn
freely.
That didn't work well at all, it became a thick gummy
sludge.

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

That three in one stuff dries out, rapidly. I havn't had
good results with that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

I agree... it gums up everything. I've heard (but don't know for sure)
that it's vegetable based.

Erik

On Oct 28, 9:05*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

I've fixed noisy fans with squirrel cage motors by putting spacers on
the shaft so the motor doesn't rattle along its axis. I'll bet the
rattling is from longitudinal and not radial movement.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 17:25:24 -0700, Erik wrote:

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

That three in one stuff dries out, rapidly. I havn't had
good results with that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

I agree... it gums up everything. I've heard (but don't know for sure)
that it's vegetable based.

Erik
There is more than one "3 in 1" oil. 3 in 1 fractional horsepower
motor oil actually works pretty darn good, if you can find it. It's
the stuff in the BLUE bottle. The multi-putpose oil is NOT a small
motor oil. The motor oil is SAE 20 weight - as specified for many
fractional horsepower motors with oil caps.

On Oct 28, 5:25*pm, Erik wrote:
In article ,
*"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

That three in one stuff dries out, rapidly. I havn't had
good results with that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org

I agree... it gums up everything. I've heard (but don't know for sure)
that it's vegetable based.

Erik

3 in 1 has a couple of flavors. One is specifically for this type
of application. Seem to remember a blue can rather than the
red.

But I haven't tried it since I had the regular stuff gum up on me.

I suppose everyone has their favorite.The one I "go to" is a 3M
product called 5-Way Plus.

Calls itself a penetrant, but seems to work very well as a lite
spindle oil.

DOC

On 10/28/2011 03:20 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Weathervane is outdoors. Which may need different lube than
indoor table fan, or a weather proofed bathroom fan.

Graphite needs to remain dry. Oil was exactly the wrong thing for it to
meet up with.

Did you find a lube for your weathervane?

Nope. 90mph wind tore it off the roof anyway. Tore entire roof off the
greenhouse, actually. Tore concrete roof tiles off house and sent them
flying too, smashing Mercedes windshield.

I'll let you know, in a couple days how my graphite plus oil
fan is doing.

Sorry to hear your weathervane was the insturment for
smashing your car. Gee, that's a shame. Hope your insurance
helped.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"beryl" wrote in message
...
On 10/28/2011 03:20 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Weathervane is outdoors. Which may need different lube
than
indoor table fan, or a weather proofed bathroom fan.

Graphite needs to remain dry. Oil was exactly the wrong
thing for it to
meet up with.

Did you find a lube for your weathervane?

Nope. 90mph wind tore it off the roof anyway. Tore entire
roof off the
greenhouse, actually. Tore concrete roof tiles off house and
sent them
flying too, smashing Mercedes windshield.

On 10/28/2011 08:43 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'll let you know, in a couple days how my graphite plus oil
fan is doing.

Sorry to hear your weathervane was the insturment for
smashing your car. Gee, that's a shame. Hope your insurance
helped.

A concrete "Lifetile" hit the car. They're very heavy. A patch of them
got sucked off a low-pressure area of the roof, downwind of a ridge.
Happens about every other winter, always a south wind tearing up the
north-facing low-pressure areas. A professional roofer argued with me
about which way the wind blows to cause the damage.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 18:19:40 -0400
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

snip
Yes, the Singer oil seems to be very penetrating, almost like Liquid Wrench.
I don't doubt it's the right stuff for most users, but our machine does not
have any lint in it. I regularly blow it out with an air hose. Maybe I'm
doing damage that way, too. g

But it's held up for roughly 30 years, and it runs perfectly. I do like that
Starrett oil.

Boy, they are right proud of that stuff (Starrett oil), ~$7 for 4 oz
bottle. I'm always watching for good types of oil for all sorts of
different use. Seems there is always a catch, but for, temp... Still
I'll keep an eye out for it and if placing an order will probably get
some.

I blow out sewing machines with compressed air too, as long as you
aren't blowing in a bunch of moisture I certainly won't fault you for
it. I don't like working on dirty equipment so end up blowing out lots
of things with compressed air. Besides, dirt, dust, debris holds
moisture and will most likely lead to corrosion if left very long. First
you should figure out what is wrong/going on with it though. Poking
around before duplicating, diagnosing the problem is a BIG no-no in my
book.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

================================================== =============

Are these Oilite bearings? Likely so.

Here's my story: I have a motor-driven blower fan on my gas-fired furnace.
The piece-of-crap motor has Oilite bearings -- the front one is
self-aligning, and the rear one is plain. The motor was installed 25 years
ago and was supposed to last for 10 years, according to the installer.

Ten years was about right. That's when the bearings ran dry, the motor
seized, and I had to polish the armature shaft in my lathe (using stainless
polish) so it would run freely in the bearings again.

But there was still no oil in the old bearings. Replacement would have been
a big PITA. The motor is no longer made. So I started oiling them twice each
season. They've run perfectly for the last 15 years.

To oil them, I use a medical syringe with a couple of drops of South Bend
plain-bearing spindle oil. There is no chamfer on the bearings, so a drop
applied normally doesn't seem to get into them. I force it in with the
syringe.

I'd use some 0-20 Mobil 1 if I had it, but I have plenty of spindle oil, so
I use that. The first year I used Starrett Instrument Oil, and that worked
just fine, as well.

I have a couple of other cheap, ancient tools and motors with Oilite
bearings, and I treat them the same way. It doesn't require much oil. I
think the best bet is to use a very light, high-quality oil like the ones
I've listed above. I tried 20W motor oil in the past, and it doesn't seem to
work as well with Oilite.

I'd be tempted to use hydraulic fluid like Mobile DTE24 or DTE22.

Joe Gwinn

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:05:54 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.


Hardest part is getting the old bearings out, but putting in new ones
is cheap and easy. They are oilite type, so cleaner/solvent screws
them up, and just plain "oiling" is a short term fix, unless you do it
weekly, and then you'll have oil "someplace" you don't want it
evenutally.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 18:19:40 -0400
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

snip
Yes, the Singer oil seems to be very penetrating, almost like Liquid
Wrench.
I don't doubt it's the right stuff for most users, but our machine does not
have any lint in it. I regularly blow it out with an air hose. Maybe I'm
doing damage that way, too. g

But it's held up for roughly 30 years, and it runs perfectly. I do like
that
Starrett oil.

Boy, they are right proud of that stuff (Starrett oil), ~$7 for 4 oz
bottle. I'm always watching for good types of oil for all sorts of
different use. Seems there is always a catch, but for, temp... Still
I'll keep an eye out for it and if placing an order will probably get
some.

================================================== ===
[reply]

Yeah, it's pricey, but I only use it in applications that require a drop or
two. It's made for lubricating micrometers, dial indicators, and the like,
which is what I bought it for in the first place. A can lasts me for years.

================================================== ===

I blow out sewing machines with compressed air too, as long as you
aren't blowing in a bunch of moisture I certainly won't fault you for
it. I don't like working on dirty equipment so end up blowing out lots
of things with compressed air. Besides, dirt, dust, debris holds
moisture and will most likely lead to corrosion if left very long. First
you should figure out what is wrong/going on with it though. Poking
around before duplicating, diagnosing the problem is a BIG no-no in my
book.

================================================== ====

Yup.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:05:54 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I know of two fans that need lube. One is a friend's
bathroom exhaust fan, a Nutone, which is fairly old. Second
is a small table top oscillating fan that I use.

Both have dried out hearings. The exhaust fan got slow, then
noisy, and finally quit. The table top fan stopped spinning.

Ideally, pitch em out, buy new ones. The exhaust fan is $60,
and the table top fan is about $10. Who's got money? I've
had them both apart, spray cleaned with solvent, and lube
with Zoom Spout Turbine oil. The exhaust fan is making
bearing noise, and the table top fan stopped.

I'm thinking next, to mix in a puff of powder graphite with
the zoom spout turbine oil. Keep the graphite away from the
electric.

What is the tried and true lube? Has to be inexpensive,
don't want to spend more on a can of lube than the price of
a fan.

TriFlow or BreakFree work fine on all my fans.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 10/28/2011 5:20 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Weathervane is outdoors. Which may need different lube than
indoor table fan, or a weather proofed bathroom fan.

Did you find a lube for your weathervane?


There is teflon powder available, cheapest Ive found is from Spurlock-
http://www.spurlocktools.com/id39.htm
The big 20oz jar is about 6.5" tall and 3.5" across, filled all the way
to the top.

Within its temperature and pressure limits, it is the slickest. It looks
like flour and smears like toothpaste. It is impervious to water and can
be used dry, or mixed with any other kind of lube also. It won't harm
plastics, wood or paint, it has no smell, it doesn't stain at all if it
leaks out, and it is non-toxic and not known to cause any serious health
issues as long as it is not inhaled (kid-safe and pet-safe).


The only warning is don't put it into piston engines or pumps with metal
piston rings, or anything that has an oil filter. Teflon powder added to
engine oil causes cylinder scoring, and it is also a natural stop-leak
and will quickly clog a typical oil filter.

If you add it to machine oil, it must be agitated to mix or else it will
just float on top. It clumps when mixed, but the clumps do not clog at
all--the dry powder itself will flow like liquid under even a small
amount of pressure. It will naturally separate out of any liquid over
time, sticking to the surrounding surfaces.




I talked to the guy when I ordered mine and said I was surprised that as
good as a lube as it should be, that nobody was selling it. He said the
same thing, and that was why he began (re)selling it. Most people buying
it were not using it for pianos but for various industrial purposes when
they only wanted a smaller amount. The smallest amount that the DuPont
distributors sell is a 55-lb pail.