Will need to do this in the near future, not getting a lot
of solid info from the drivers forums


Link below gives some of the helpful and less than helpful
comments:

http://roundtable.truck.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81434


thanks

gary

No one?

Not even any comments or flames?


Will need to do this in the near future, not getting a lot
of solid info from the drivers forums

Link below gives some of the helpful and less than helpful
comments on Trucknet:

http://roundtable.truck.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81434

On Apr 1, 7:28*pm, wrote:
Will need to do this in the near future, not getting a lot
of solid info from the drivers forums

Link below gives some of the helpful and less than helpful
comments:

http://roundtable.truck.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81434

thanks

gary

I don't think I have ever seen a car on the back of a semi tractor,
but it is quite common to deliver three tractors at a time. The front
axle of the towed tractors are bolted to a bracket that has a pivot
plate and king-pin that attaches to the fifth wheel, (The hitching
thing.) allowing the towed tractors to act as semi trailers. (A semi
trailer is a trailer without a front axle and a significant amount of
weight is carried by the towing vehicle. A full trailer has a front
pivoting axle that bears the weight so the towing vehicle only pulls
the load.)

They do this so they can deliver three at a time rather than putting
two on a flat bed trailer.

wrote:
No one?

Not even any comments or flames?


Will need to do this in the near future, not getting a lot
of solid info from the drivers forums

Link below gives some of the helpful and less than helpful
comments on Trucknet:

http://roundtable.truck.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81434

Well the common way is to install a section of auto rack ramps. BUT this
is usually done on tractors used to haul mobile homes.

However I don't see why you couldn't weld up a set of rails that would
allow this. The problem becomes loading the car. The usual method for
the trailer guys is to use slide out ramps that hit the ground, Then
they drive the nose up and winch the vehicle the rest of the way.

If this is a one time shot then I would just borrow a tow dolly.

If you will need to do it repeatably then I would make up a frame out of
a pair of rails with them hinged at the rear of the frame. Attach a
winch so you can pull the car up onto the rails. Use a set of long rams
to tilt the ramps up for loading. You should be able to get the rams and
ramps right from an old car hauler. Just set them up to clear the 5th
wheel when they are down.


--
Steve W.

wrote:
No one?

Not even any comments or flames?

I can't even imagine why anyone would want to do such a thing, let alone
how!

How about a couple of ramps, and drive the car up onto the frame rails, and
strap it down?

Good Luck!
Rich

On Sat, 02 Apr 2011 21:53:14 -0500, wrote:


No one?

Not even any comments or flames?

Newp.

--
Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins
when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in
order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary.
-- Peter Minard

A sketch maybe?

thanks

gary



Well the common way is to install a section of auto rack ramps. BUT this
is usually done on tractors used to haul mobile homes.

However I don't see why you couldn't weld up a set of rails that would
allow this. The problem becomes loading the car. The usual method for
the trailer guys is to use slide out ramps that hit the ground, Then
they drive the nose up and winch the vehicle the rest of the way.

If this is a one time shot then I would just borrow a tow dolly.

If you will need to do it repeatably then I would make up a frame out of
a pair of rails with them hinged at the rear of the frame. Attach a
winch so you can pull the car up onto the rails. Use a set of long rams
to tilt the ramps up for loading. You should be able to get the rams and
ramps right from an old car hauler. Just set them up to clear the 5th
wheel when they are down.

Because 1 tractor for power, + 3 tractors on the deck is
legally the same as a set of pups, i.e. tractor + 2 x 28'
trailers and 1 con gear.

Add a towed vehicle, it becomes an LCV, which is prohibited
in many states.

The fact that I would do almost anything to avoid the cattle
call associated with flying or, even worse, bus, is no small
part of it.

$ is an issue here too, i.e. my VW Jetta TDI gets over
50mpg, and I get to wave and smile at the folks enjoying the
dining experience, 30,000 ft while stacked like
sardines in a winged can Not to mention the delightful
social experience involved in getting INTO said winged
conveyance

gary


I can't even imagine why anyone would want to do such a thing, let alone
how!

How about a couple of ramps, and drive the car up onto the frame rails, and
strap it down?

Good Luck!
Rich

I'm having a problem visualizing this setup, and Steve seems
to be busy.

Can anyone provide enlightement? possibly a sketch, as I
do much better than with a description.

thanks

gary





Well the common way is to install a section of auto rack ramps. BUT this
is usually done on tractors used to haul mobile homes.

However I don't see why you couldn't weld up a set of rails that would
allow this. The problem becomes loading the car. The usual method for
the trailer guys is to use slide out ramps that hit the ground, Then
they drive the nose up and winch the vehicle the rest of the way.

If this is a one time shot then I would just borrow a tow dolly.

If you will need to do it repeatably then I would make up a frame out of
a pair of rails with them hinged at the rear of the frame. Attach a
winch so you can pull the car up onto the rails. Use a set of long rams
to tilt the ramps up for loading. You should be able to get the rams and
ramps right from an old car hauler. Just set them up to clear the 5th
wheel when they are down.

wrote:
I'm having a problem visualizing this setup, and Steve seems
to be busy.

Can anyone provide enlightement? possibly a sketch, as I
do much better than with a description.

thanks

gary



Gary,
Just a bit busy Sorry.

What you basically need is a set of car width channels (like you see on
car haulers)
These get set up with a few cross-members in front and behind the 5th
wheel. Then they get hinged at the rear of the frame rails on the
tractor. Just about like a dump box would be set up.
When they are not in use they would set down on the frame tight. This
way the 5th wheel is usable. When you want to load the car on you use
the rams to lift the rails up. Use a set of ramps (or a loading dock if
available) and winch the car onto the rails. Lower the rails down (use
stops to keep the car off the 5th wheel as needed) Lock the car down
with some over the tire straps and store the ramps and your all set.

If you are running a twin screw the rails will probably be long enough
as is. A short single will be a problem but it can be done. Check out
some of the mobile home haulers and you will find some with car racks on
them. Those are usually fixed mount though because they use a ball
hitch. But with hydraulics and some careful plans you could do the same
thing and still have a usable 5th wheel.


--
Steve W.

I understand keeping the bills paid, just have to remember,
internet/usenet is a hobby


Saw one of these the other day, unfortunately, going the
other way at 70mph. Only thing I really got a decent look
at was the trailer axle underneath. Driver tows the
"carrier" to next job after removing it from tractor. I've
been looking through my video files to see if the camera got
a decent shot, but I didn't make a note of the time, and
with 2gb of video this may take a while As I'll be
removing the "carrier" to go on to the next job, It doesn't
much matter if the fifth wheel is covered as long as it
isn't beating on my oil pan.



Just a bit busy Sorry.

"Channels" being say, 2" high x tire width? and couple feet
longer than the car?



What you basically need is a set of car width channels (like you see on
car haulers)
These get set up with a few cross-members in front and behind the 5th
wheel. Then they get hinged at the rear of the frame rails on the
tractor. Just about like a dump box would be set up.
When they are not in use they would set down on the frame tight. This
way the 5th wheel is usable. When you want to load the car on you use
the rams to lift the rails up.

Lift the front of the "carrier"? I'm guessing so the car
doesn't drag its underside on the end of the tractor frame
as its being pulled up?

Any suggestions ramps, as in locating?



Use a set of ramps (or a loading dock if
available) and winch the car onto the rails. Lower the rails down (use
stops to keep the car off the 5th wheel as needed) Lock the car down
with some over the tire straps and store the ramps and your all set.

If you are running a twin screw the rails will probably be long enough
as is. A short single will be a problem but it can be done. Check out
some of the mobile home haulers and you will find some with car racks on
them. Those are usually fixed mount though because they use a ball
hitch. But with hydraulics and some careful plans you could do the same
thing and still have a usable 5th wheel.

Video for anyone who doesn't have a clue what I'm talking
about.

gary



http://s677.photobucket.com/albums/v...2-17-32-23.mp4

http://metalworking.com/dropbox/carrier.jpg


Thoughts, concerns, comments, suggestions welcome!


#1 is intended to be rectangular box tubing, 2 is channel
material, inside width slightly bigger than tire
width(205mm).


thanks

gary

wrote:
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/carrier.jpg


Thoughts, concerns, comments, suggestions welcome!


#1 is intended to be rectangular box tubing, 2 is channel
material, inside width slightly bigger than tire
width(205mm).


thanks

gary

See you did figure it out...
Most of the ones I have seen use a ram on the front end to tilt the deck
up in front. This allows the vehicle to clear the frame stubs without
bottoming out. Hinge point is usually right at the end of the frame.
Most use a Z variation on the channel, the outer section is up while the
inner is down. Guides the vehicle but also allows different tire widths.
Also is stronger with the ribs going both directions.
For loading ramps most use a set of ramps like a car carrier. Or if
handy a loading dock makes it easier.
Make sure that the entire thing will clear the 5th wheel during any
maneuvers. Or make it so you can bolt/pin it together as needed.


--
Steve W.

Could you describe the ram, mount, etc a bit more? I'm
trying not to re-invent the wheel, er, carrier here.


http://metalworking.com/dropbox/Frame-hinge1.jpg

In trying to minimize the complexity as much as possible,
I'm thinking the "hinge" just needs to allow the rail to
lift in the front, while keeping the rear from sliding
sideways on the tractor frame.

The "pin" shown at the right edge of the channel would slip
under the lip of the tractor framem and allow the "U"
channel to pivot as the front is lifted.



Most of the ones I have seen use a ram on the front end to tilt the deck
up in front. This allows the vehicle to clear the frame stubs without
bottoming out. Hinge point is usually right at the end of the frame.

Z?

Most use a Z variation on the channel, the outer section is up while the
inner is down. Guides the vehicle but also allows different tire widths.
Also is stronger with the ribs going both directions.
For loading ramps most use a set of ramps like a car carrier. Or if
handy a loading dock makes it easier.
Make sure that the entire thing will clear the 5th wheel during any


Planning on a bolt together setup, I'm thinking a 1 piece
carrier would be too heavy to lift off the frame alone.

maneuvers. Or make it so you can bolt/pin it together as needed.


Thoughts regarding 2" x 4" box tubing being appropriate?

thanks

gary

wrote:
Could you describe the ram, mount, etc a bit more? I'm
trying not to re-invent the wheel, er, carrier here.

Most of the rams are simple long rams Just rated to lift the ramps with
a vehicle on them. For this you could use a scissor lift style unit as
well. Would take longer to lift but if a few extra minutes are not a
problem an electric screw lift would probably be easier to deal with.



http://metalworking.com/dropbox/Frame-hinge1.jpg

In trying to minimize the complexity as much as possible,
I'm thinking the "hinge" just needs to allow the rail to
lift in the front, while keeping the rear from sliding
sideways on the tractor frame.

Yep, BUT you also don't want the rear section to slip around or bind
while loading. Rear section could be bolted to existing frame holes.


The "pin" shown at the right edge of the channel would slip
under the lip of the tractor framem and allow the "U"
channel to pivot as the front is lifted.
]

Basically the hinge is nothing but a pin with a welded sleeve on the
frame. They look like the old style barn door hinges with a pin and strap.



Most of the ones I have seen use a ram on the front end to tilt the deck
up in front. This allows the vehicle to clear the frame stubs without
bottoming out. Hinge point is usually right at the end of the frame.

Z?

Most use a Z variation on the channel, the outer section is up while the
inner is down. Guides the vehicle but also allows different tire widths.
Also is stronger with the ribs going both directions.
For loading ramps most use a set of ramps like a car carrier. Or if
handy a loading dock makes it easier.
Make sure that the entire thing will clear the 5th wheel during any


Planning on a bolt together setup, I'm thinking a 1 piece
carrier would be too heavy to lift off the frame alone.

Yeah, it could be a bear.


maneuvers. Or make it so you can bolt/pin it together as needed.


Thoughts regarding 2" x 4" box tubing being appropriate?

Depends on the cars weight.


thanks

gary



--
Steve W.