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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Phillips screw security bit?
I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged
into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
#2
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Phillips screw security bit?
The Kill-A-Watt appears to be a heavily integrated product. You probably
won't be able to fix it. Various dealers often have it on sale. It might be less trouble to wait a week or two. |
#3
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Phillips screw security bit?
William Sommerwerck wrote:
The Kill-A-Watt appears to be a heavily integrated product. You probably won't be able to fix it. Various dealers often have it on sale. It might be less trouble to wait a week or two. No fusible link? Thanks for your reply, -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
#4
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Phillips screw security bit?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber"
wrote: I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Hmmm. Just checked the back of the 4460 here and all three screw heads are Philips. It's a few years old, though, so maybe their lawyers got involved or something. Regardless, I wonder if a "spanner security bit" would work here? It's shaped rather like a regular flat-bladed screwdriver but with a notch in the center. You could probably make one by sizing a small flatblade with one of the other screws and grinding a notch in the center. -- Rich Webb Norfolk, VA |
#5
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Phillips screw security bit?
"David Farber" wrote in message ... William Sommerwerck wrote: The Kill-A-Watt appears to be a heavily integrated product. You probably won't be able to fix it. Various dealers often have it on sale. It might be less trouble to wait a week or two. No fusible link? Thanks for your reply, Yeah, the whole thing is the fusible link. tm |
#6
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Phillips screw security bit?
tm wrote:
"David Farber" wrote in message ... William Sommerwerck wrote: The Kill-A-Watt appears to be a heavily integrated product. You probably won't be able to fix it. Various dealers often have it on sale. It might be less trouble to wait a week or two. No fusible link? Thanks for your reply, Yeah, the whole thing is the fusible link. tm Nice. (-; Thanks for you reply (I think) -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
#7
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Phillips screw security bit?
"David Farber" wrote in message ... tm wrote: "David Farber" wrote in message ... William Sommerwerck wrote: The Kill-A-Watt appears to be a heavily integrated product. You probably won't be able to fix it. Various dealers often have it on sale. It might be less trouble to wait a week or two. No fusible link? Thanks for your reply, Yeah, the whole thing is the fusible link. tm Nice. (-; Thanks for you reply (I think) -- Well, there is a shunt about 1 mm in diameter in the L1 leg. N goes straight through. There is a small fuse, a 0.47 uF cap, and a 100 ohm 1 watt flame proof resistor supplying power to the active electronics. My unit is several years old and has three phillips screws. Is yours open from source to load? tm |
#8
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Phillips screw security bit?
Rich Webb wrote:
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber" wrote: I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Hmmm. Just checked the back of the 4460 here and all three screw heads are Philips. It's a few years old, though, so maybe their lawyers got involved or something. Regardless, I wonder if a "spanner security bit" would work here? It's shaped rather like a regular flat-bladed screwdriver but with a notch in the center. You could probably make one by sizing a small flatblade with one of the other screws and grinding a notch in the center. I took a very small regular flat-bladed screwdriver and didn't expect much. However it was able to catch hold and remove the screw. The screw is just a regular Phillips head that looks like it suffered some irregularities from trying to be removed with the wrong tool. I guess it doesn't really matter now. Inside, everything looks clean. There is a small 10mm pigtail 200ma fuse which is in tact. So I reassembled everything, plugged it back in and it worked. Now for the big d'oh moment. I think when I tested the Kill-A-Watt after the blowout, it was before I noticed the circuit breaker had been tripped. Ok, move along, nothing to see here. (-: Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
#9
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Phillips screw security bit?
tm wrote:
"David Farber" wrote in message ... tm wrote: "David Farber" wrote in message ... William Sommerwerck wrote: The Kill-A-Watt appears to be a heavily integrated product. You probably won't be able to fix it. Various dealers often have it on sale. It might be less trouble to wait a week or two. No fusible link? Thanks for your reply, Yeah, the whole thing is the fusible link. tm Nice. (-; Thanks for you reply (I think) -- Well, there is a shunt about 1 mm in diameter in the L1 leg. N goes straight through. There is a small fuse, a 0.47 uF cap, and a 100 ohm 1 watt flame proof resistor supplying power to the active electronics. My unit is several years old and has three phillips screws. Is yours open from source to load? tm Nothing open. The unit now works. Thanks for taking the trouble to research this. See my post after Rich Webb's to see what happened. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
#10
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Phillips screw security bit?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber"
wrote: The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? To the best of my knowledge, there's no such thing. All my Kill-a-watt boxes use standard Philips screw heads. Photo of the guts which may help once you gain entry: http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/kill-a-watt.html The upper photo is the older 4 button version. The lower photo is the 5 button version. Except for the price tag, the differences are subtle. The fuse is labeled F1 in the lower left. I had the brass power plug connections develop a broken solder connection, probably from excessive movement of the power plug (i.e. tripping over the cord). The patent might help if you have to troubleshoot down to the component level: http://www.google.com/patents?id=G3MDAAAAEBAJ&dq=6095850 Some litigatory entertainment value: http://greenpatentblog.com/2008/12/24/smartlabs-enjoined-parties-smart-management-focuses-issues-in-energy-meter-litigation/ -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#11
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Phillips screw security bit?
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber" wrote: The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? To the best of my knowledge, there's no such thing. All my Kill-a-watt boxes use standard Philips screw heads. Photo of the guts which may help once you gain entry: http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/kill-a-watt.html The upper photo is the older 4 button version. The lower photo is the 5 button version. Except for the price tag, the differences are subtle. The fuse is labeled F1 in the lower left. I had the brass power plug connections develop a broken solder connection, probably from excessive movement of the power plug (i.e. tripping over the cord). The patent might help if you have to troubleshoot down to the component level: http://www.google.com/patents?id=G3MDAAAAEBAJ&dq=6095850 Some litigatory entertainment value: http://greenpatentblog.com/2008/12/24/smartlabs-enjoined-parties-smart-management-focuses-issues-in-energy-meter-litigation/ Hi Jeff, I posted a few minutes before your post that there was nothing wrong with the meter. I had tested the meter before I had realized the circuit breaker had tripped. The fact that the burn-marked ground terminal that plugs into the wall did not connect to any of the circuitry in the Kill-A-Watt should have been my first clue. It just passes the ground connection to the device under test. Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
#12
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Phillips screw security bit?
"William Sommerwerck" wrote in
: The Kill-A-Watt appears to be a heavily integrated product. You probably won't be able to fix it. Various dealers often have it on sale. It might be less trouble to wait a week or two. it's still nice to be able to open one up and see what's inside. -- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com |
#13
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Phillips screw security bit?
David Farber wrote: Rich Webb wrote: On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber" wrote: I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Hmmm. Just checked the back of the 4460 here and all three screw heads are Philips. It's a few years old, though, so maybe their lawyers got involved or something. Regardless, I wonder if a "spanner security bit" would work here? It's shaped rather like a regular flat-bladed screwdriver but with a notch in the center. You could probably make one by sizing a small flatblade with one of the other screws and grinding a notch in the center. I took a very small regular flat-bladed screwdriver and didn't expect much. However it was able to catch hold and remove the screw. The screw is just a regular Phillips head that looks like it suffered some irregularities from trying to be removed with the wrong tool. I guess it doesn't really matter now. Inside, everything looks clean. There is a small 10mm pigtail 200ma fuse which is in tact. So I reassembled everything, plugged it back in and it worked. Now for the big d'oh moment. I think when I tested the Kill-A-Watt after the blowout, it was before I noticed the circuit breaker had been tripped. Ok, move along, nothing to see here. (-: That calls for 30 wacks with a rubber chicken! ;-) -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. |
#14
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Phillips screw security bit?
In article ,
"David Farber" wrote: There is a small 10mm pigtail 200ma fuse which is in tact. David- I had a generator with a bad governor, putting out over 300 Volts. It blew the 200 Ma fuse in my Kill-A-Watt. I haven't been able to find a 200 Ma fuse. It turns out that a standard 1/4 inch 1/4 Amp fuse with wire leads soldered on, fits in the space available. Its better than no fuse at all! Your philips screw may have just had a mutilated standard head. But if someone went into it before you, they could have replaced the screw with one with a "Pozi-Drive" head that looks like philips from a distance. The pozi-drive system can apply more torque to the screw than philips. If you work on Hewlett Packard test equipment, it might be worthwhile finding some pozi-drive bits. Fred |
#15
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You didn't mnetion what a Kill-A-Watt P4460 is in your original post. For the benefit of others, I did a search online. It's an electricity power meter to display how much energy you are using.
The maximum power of an appliance plugged should not exceed 1875 VA. What did you have plugged in and how much power does it require? The Torx bit with a hole in the centre is commonly found in modern security bit sets. You should be able to find one in your local hardware store/supermarket. Otherwise, you'll find one on Ebay. M. Joshi Quote:
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#16
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Phillips screw security bit?
No fusible link?
My intuition is that the Kill-A-Watt doesn't have a fusible link. Its sensing circuit is probably designed to handle 20A or so. The circuitry is probably fed from a high-impedance resistive divider, which would not lend itself to "fuse" protection. |
#17
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Phillips screw security bit?
It's still nice to be able to open one up and see what's inside.
Of course! That's always fun. I've been tempted to open mine. |
#18
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Phillips screw security bit?
So I reassembled everything, plugged it back in and it worked.
Now for the big d'oh moment. I think when I tested the Kill-A-Watt after the blowout, it was before I noticed the circuit breaker had been tripped. Ok, move along, nothing to see here. (-: This raises a possibly related problem -- something I call "CMOS lockup". A device starts working oddly, or not at all, and then after it's for a while, it works again. I've seen this on at least four items. |
#19
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Phillips screw security bit?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 16:27:47 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote: It's still nice to be able to open one up and see what's inside. Of course! That's always fun. I've been tempted to open mine. A picture is worth well maybe a dozen words: http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/kill-a-watt.html The upper is the older 4 button variety. The lower version is 5 button. Also note the fuse in the lower left. Max current is 15A (1875VA): http://www.p3international.com/products/special/P4400/P4400-CE.html http://www.p3international.com/products/p4460.html -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#20
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Phillips screw security bit?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 13:59:13 -0700, "David Farber"
wrote: I took a very small regular flat-bladed screwdriver and didn't expect much. However it was able to catch hold and remove the screw. The screw is just a regular Phillips head that looks like it suffered some irregularities from trying to be removed with the wrong tool. I guess it doesn't really matter now. Inside, everything looks clean. There is a small 10mm pigtail 200ma fuse which is in tact. So I reassembled everything, plugged it back in and it worked. Now for the big d'oh moment. I think when I tested the Kill-A-Watt after the blowout, it was before I noticed the circuit breaker had been tripped. Ok, move along, nothing to see here. (-: Got it. So, in addition to the rule "When all else fails, use a bigger hammer," we should append "or a smaller screwdriver!" Well, at least you had a good excuse to crack one open and take a look at the works. No day is wasted when one has learned something new (or at least took something new apart). -- Rich Webb Norfolk, VA |
#21
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Phillips screw security bit?
"M.Joshi" wrote: You didn't mnetion what a Kill-A-Watt P4460 is in your original post. For the benefit of others, I did a search online. It's an electricity power meter to display how much energy you are using. The maximum power of an appliance plugged should not exceed 1875 VA. What did you have plugged in and how much power does it require? The Torx bit with a hole in the centre is commonly found in modern security bit sets. You should be able to find one in your local hardware store/supermarket. Otherwise, you'll find one on Ebay. Hell, just go to Harbor Freight for security bits. A lot cheaper than a radware store, or Ebay + Shipping. They even have the small sizes needed for hard drives. -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. |
#22
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Phillips screw security bit?
Well, now you've had a look inside the unit, at least.
There are quite a few newer styles of fasteners that are generally only in specialized sets, not usually found in local store hardware departments. When trying to find some of them a while ago, I came across a driver style/type referred to as tri-wing.. looks like phillips head at a glance, but only 3 "wings". There are tri- and quad- (looks even more like a phillips) types too, and the peculiar characteristic is that the wings don't converge in the center, the way phillips and pozi-drive recesses do. There are also some tri- types that have a plain center with 3 radial notches, but I don't know what they're commonly called. The 2-notch types aren't much of a challenge, and either of these types may not require the specific driver, if one can exercise a little persistence. I picked up a couple stes of security drivers at a hamfest about 2 years ago, that have the 1/4" hex "bits" in a rubbery holder for about $7. Cheap Chinese-made drivers, but effective. The Torx security fasteners with a pin in the center are fairly old.. I first noticed them on a 1980 El Dorado, securing the frontend sheetmetal. When these newer types of fasteners are installed in deeply recessed holes, they can be a little stubborn, but they're just screwed into plastic, so more of an annoyance than a problem. Fasteners that have a low spot in the center of the head can often be removed with a low speed left handed twist drill, and there are now some driver "bits" that are ground just like a LH drill point, marketed especially for removing stripped-out phillips screw heads. I encountered a plastic case a few years ago that appeared to have 3 phillips screws and a fourth fastener that had a plain flat, round head, and they were in deep recesses. I managed to pierce the plain, flat part with a sharp tool point, and it turned out to be a thin, small, plated brass cap that was pushed into the hole, on top of the plain phillips screw. It came out fairly easily with a dental pick. Searching for triwing or tri-wing screwdrivers or driver bits will likely turn up numerous sources for tool sets of the newer, somewhat peculiar fasteners, for future encounters. -- Cheers, WB .............. "David Farber" wrote in message ... I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
#23
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Phillips screw security bit?
On 10/18/2010 7:53 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
"M.Joshi" wrote: You didn't mnetion what a Kill-A-Watt P4460 is in your original post. For the benefit of others, I did a search online. It's an electricity power meter to display how much energy you are using. The maximum power of an appliance plugged should not exceed 1875 VA. What did you have plugged in and how much power does it require? The Torx bit with a hole in the centre is commonly found in modern security bit sets. You should be able to find one in your local hardware store/supermarket. Otherwise, you'll find one on Ebay. Hell, just go to Harbor Freight for security bits. A lot cheaper than a radware store, or Ebay + Shipping. They even have the small sizes needed for hard drives. Yep. I've got that set. Got it right here in front of me, ackshooly. It's got, lessee, 32 bits: Torx-with-a-hole-in-the-middle, hex-with-a-hole-in-the-middle, tri-wing, "spanner"-type slotted, and some weird offset 4-wing bits. Of course, even with that many bits there are some "security" fasteners these won't fit. But it's a very good start, and cheap, too. -- The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring, with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags. - Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com) |
#24
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Phillips screw security bit?
David Nebenzahl wrote: On 10/18/2010 7:53 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus: "M.Joshi" wrote: You didn't mnetion what a Kill-A-Watt P4460 is in your original post. For the benefit of others, I did a search online. It's an electricity power meter to display how much energy you are using. The maximum power of an appliance plugged should not exceed 1875 VA. What did you have plugged in and how much power does it require? The Torx bit with a hole in the centre is commonly found in modern security bit sets. You should be able to find one in your local hardware store/supermarket. Otherwise, you'll find one on Ebay. Hell, just go to Harbor Freight for security bits. A lot cheaper than a radware store, or Ebay + Shipping. They even have the small sizes needed for hard drives. Yep. I've got that set. Got it right here in front of me, ackshooly. It's got, lessee, 32 bits: Torx-with-a-hole-in-the-middle, hex-with-a-hole-in-the-middle, tri-wing, "spanner"-type slotted, and some weird offset 4-wing bits. Of course, even with that many bits there are some "security" fasteners these won't fit. But it's a very good start, and cheap, too. That is only one of many sets of security bits they sell. There is a set of 100 (with some duplicates) bits: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-91310.html A set of 32 (+ extension) in the soft plastic skin: http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-security-bit-set-93388.html A set of 32 longer security bits http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-3-inch-long-reach-security-bit-set-95680.html And a set of six from T-5 to T-9: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-star-bit-set-93316.html A screwdriver with T-3, T-4, T-5, T-6, T-7, T-8, T-9 and T-10 bits. http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-precision-star-bit-pocket-screwdriver-66472.html They also have sets for automotive work: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=star+bit Including some 'e' sockets for external torx screws: http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piec...set-36562.html -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. |
#25
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Phillips screw security bit?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber"
wrote: I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Thanks for your reply. The tool is called a Phillips Security Bit. They aren't uncommon. I've seen them at swap meets, ham fests, and are available on eBay. PlainBill |
#26
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Phillips screw security bit?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, David Farber wrote:
I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? trashcan |
#27
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Phillips screw security bit?
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#29
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Phillips screw security bit?
On 19 Oct 2010 23:07:23 GMT, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
... All Made in Chia -- but you can't avoid that easily now-a-days. My apologies to the makers of the Chia Pet -- which I did not mean to denigrate. (But, it's probably made in China now, too...) Jonesy |
#30
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Phillips screw security bit?
David Nebenzahl wrote in message
.com... On 10/19/2010 4:07 PM Allodoxaphobia spake thus: On Tue, 19 Oct 2010 09:28:28 -0700, wrote: On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber" wrote: I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? The tool is called a Phillips Security Bit. They aren't uncommon. I've seen them at swap meets, ham fests, and are available on eBay. Harbor Freight sells a small rubber block holding 32 bits for all manner of styles and sizes of such weird drivers. Use'em in a 1/4" hex nut driver (or, 1/2" power drill....) All Made in Chia -- but you can't avoid that easily now-a-days. I have that set, as I mentioned elsewhere in this thread, but it doesn't have the bit the O.P. needs (Phillips-with-a-hole-in-the-middle). It does, however, have some other interesting "security" bits, and as Michael Terrell pointed out, HF sells other security bit sets that may have it. The quality is very good, BTW. But any decent hardware store will probably have the needed bit. (*Not* the big orange store.) -- The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring, with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags. - Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com) Has anyone mentioned cracking off the pip with a bit of ground down toolsteel hammered punch-fashion in the head of the screws? Sometimes even the shortened shaft of a pop-rivet (universal meaning?). I watched a "how do they do it" on Peterbild ? USA truck maker and they called them Hucker bolts ? |
#31
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Phillips screw security bit?
N_Cook wrote: Has anyone mentioned cracking off the pip with a bit of ground down toolsteel hammered punch-fashion in the head of the screws? That can damage some equipment. The Kill-A-Watt P4460 is in a small plastic case. Sometimes even the shortened shaft of a pop-rivet (universal meaning?). I watched a "how do they do it" on Peterbild ? USA truck maker and they called them Hucker bolts ? Old truck driver's joke: Old truckers never die. They just get a new PETERBILT http://www.peterbilt.com/history.aspx -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. |
#32
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Phillips screw security bit?
Michael A. Terrell wrote in message
... N_Cook wrote: Has anyone mentioned cracking off the pip with a bit of ground down toolsteel hammered punch-fashion in the head of the screws? That can damage some equipment. The Kill-A-Watt P4460 is in a small plastic case. Sometimes even the shortened shaft of a pop-rivet (universal meaning?). I watched a "how do they do it" on Peterbild ? USA truck maker and they called them Hucker bolts ? Old truck driver's joke: Old truckers never die. They just get a new PETERBILT http://www.peterbilt.com/history.aspx -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. so those blind rivets are Huck bolts |
#33
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Phillips screw security bit?
N_Cook wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote in message ... N_Cook wrote: Has anyone mentioned cracking off the pip with a bit of ground down toolsteel hammered punch-fashion in the head of the screws? That can damage some equipment. The Kill-A-Watt P4460 is in a small plastic case. Sometimes even the shortened shaft of a pop-rivet (universal meaning?). I watched a "how do they do it" on Peterbild ? USA truck maker and they called them Hucker bolts ? Old truck driver's joke: Old truckers never die. They just get a new PETERBILT http://www.peterbilt.com/history.aspx -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. so those blind rivets are Huck bolts I've never heard that term before today. -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. |
#34
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Phillips screw security bit?
On 10/20/2010 8:39 AM N_Cook spake thus:
Michael A. Terrell wrote in message ... Old truck driver's joke: Old truckers never die. They just get a new PETERBILT http://www.peterbilt.com/history.aspx so those blind rivets are Huck bolts 1. How can a rivet be a bolt? 2. That joke apparently flew right over your head. -- The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring, with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags. - Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com) |
#35
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Phillips screw security bit?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 15:42:40 -0400, Rich Webb wrote:
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber" wrote: I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Hmmm. Just checked the back of the 4460 here and all three screw heads are Philips. It's a few years old, though, so maybe their lawyers got involved or something. Regardless, I wonder if a "spanner security bit" would work here? It's shaped rather like a regular flat-bladed screwdriver but with a notch in the center. You could probably make one by sizing a small flatblade with one of the other screws and grinding a notch in the center. For a device like the kill-o-watt, just grab the screws with a sharp pair of diagonal cutters and turn. Then use needlenose pliars to finish turning the screws out. That POS isn't worth a $5 tool investment. Or are they recessed? Tapping a sharp standard screwdriver with a hammer till it bites would do the trick. |
#36
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Phillips screw security bit?
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 15:42:40 -0400, Rich Webb wrote: On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 12:09:59 -0700, "David Farber" wrote: I'm trying to disassemble a Kill-A-Watt P4460. A device that was plugged into it had some electrical problem and caused the circuit breaker in my house to trip. When I removed the Kill-A-Watt from the ac outlet, the ground pin had a nice burn mark on it and now the display is dead. There are three Phillips screws on the back of the unit but one of them appears to have one of those raised points in the center of it which prevent you from putting in a regular bit. I cannot find any security tool in my collection that fits this type of screw. I'm not even sure what to search for online. The screw looks like a torx bit but it only has four notches. Any idea what tool fits this? Hmmm. Just checked the back of the 4460 here and all three screw heads are Philips. It's a few years old, though, so maybe their lawyers got involved or something. Regardless, I wonder if a "spanner security bit" would work here? It's shaped rather like a regular flat-bladed screwdriver but with a notch in the center. You could probably make one by sizing a small flatblade with one of the other screws and grinding a notch in the center. For a device like the kill-o-watt, just grab the screws with a sharp pair of diagonal cutters and turn. Then use needlenose pliars to finish turning the screws out. That POS isn't worth a $5 tool investment. Or are they recessed? Tapping a sharp standard screwdriver with a hammer till it bites would do the trick. Or, you can go to a place like Harborfrieght and get a large set for cheap which has that fork tungue bit in it of various sizes.. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...=security+bits |
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