My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.

Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force the
pin out, or does one use a punch?

Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?

Steve

there is a master link when the chain is assembled for use. I imagine that
when you get a roll of chain you also get a bag of master links.


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.

Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force
the pin out, or does one use a punch?

Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?

Steve

Steve B wrote:

My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.

Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force the
pin out, or does one use a punch?

Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?

Steve

The first questions to as a

- Is the chain a quality type, or junk?

- Do you or your friend have a chain saw that used this type and size of
chain?

Chain saw chain doesn't use connecting links, you spin in new rivets to
secure it.

Steve B wrote:
My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.

Will the chain fit his/your saw? There are a LOT of different sizes and
types of saw chain. Use the wrong type and you can fry the bar and the
clutch REALLY quick.


Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force the
pin out, or does one use a punch?

Sort of, Except you usually need to grind off the spun head on the rivet
first.


Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?

You use a connecting link that has separate rivet pins, They then get
spun into shape.


Steve



Also make sure of what type of cutting action the chain has. Some chain
is VERY aggressive and unless you use the saw a LOT and get used to that
chain it can cause problems.
The chain I use on my saws probably makes OSHA cry....

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote:

Steve B wrote:
My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.

Will the chain fit his/your saw? There are a LOT of different sizes and
types of saw chain. Use the wrong type and you can fry the bar and the
clutch REALLY quick.


Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force the
pin out, or does one use a punch?

Sort of, Except you usually need to grind off the spun head on the rivet
first.


Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?

You use a connecting link that has separate rivet pins, They then get
spun into shape.


Steve



Also make sure of what type of cutting action the chain has. Some chain
is VERY aggressive and unless you use the saw a LOT and get used to that
chain it can cause problems.
The chain I use on my saws probably makes OSHA cry....

I only use the non-anti-kickback chain with the zillion warning labels.
It makes the consumer chains look like you're trying to cut down the
tree with a plastic butter knife.

On Dec 2, 5:29*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
...

I only use the non-anti-kickback chain with the zillion warning labels.
It makes the consumer chains look like you're trying to cut down the
tree with a plastic butter knife.-

You can adjust the agressiveness by filing down the rakers, the depth-
controlling fingers in front of the cutting edges. Too much makes it
grab and whip or spin smaller pieces rather than cutting them. I've
tried the arborist / competition filing jobs and went back to the
standard one that doesn't demand such intense attention. The pros do a
number of things I don't think are right for a part-time amateur.

The recoil spring on my Husqvarna 350 just broke AGAIN, this
replacement spring didn't have half a gallon of gas worth of use on
it. I leave the specified free play when the cord is fully out, like
the manual says.

So I bought a Stihl MS211. So far I like it a lot except for the
tricky oil cap. It's lighter than the Husky, and I'm older. I want to
be VERY sure I have a dependable saw after the next ice storm,
whenever that is (checks wris****ch).

jsw

"Steve W." wrote:

Also make sure of what type of cutting action the chain has. Some chain
is VERY aggressive and unless you use the saw a LOT and get used to that
chain it can cause problems.
The chain I use on my saws probably makes OSHA cry....


My brother calls the things that regulate depth of cut, 'lawyers bumps'.

A bit of file work can turn it up to your level of aggression.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Pete C. wrote:
"Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.
Will the chain fit his/your saw? There are a LOT of different sizes and
types of saw chain. Use the wrong type and you can fry the bar and the
clutch REALLY quick.

Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force the
pin out, or does one use a punch?
Sort of, Except you usually need to grind off the spun head on the rivet
first.

Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?
You use a connecting link that has separate rivet pins, They then get
spun into shape.

Steve


Also make sure of what type of cutting action the chain has. Some chain
is VERY aggressive and unless you use the saw a LOT and get used to that
chain it can cause problems.
The chain I use on my saws probably makes OSHA cry....

I only use the non-anti-kickback chain with the zillion warning labels.
It makes the consumer chains look like you're trying to cut down the
tree with a plastic butter knife.

Mine are full chisel with the rakers cut back some. One slip and you
would be missing a leg or more!!!

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
"Steve W." wrote:
Steve B wrote:
My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.
Will the chain fit his/your saw? There are a LOT of different sizes and
types of saw chain. Use the wrong type and you can fry the bar and the
clutch REALLY quick.

Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force the
pin out, or does one use a punch?
Sort of, Except you usually need to grind off the spun head on the rivet
first.

Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?
You use a connecting link that has separate rivet pins, They then get
spun into shape.

Steve


Also make sure of what type of cutting action the chain has. Some chain
is VERY aggressive and unless you use the saw a LOT and get used to that
chain it can cause problems.
The chain I use on my saws probably makes OSHA cry....

I only use the non-anti-kickback chain with the zillion warning labels.
It makes the consumer chains look like you're trying to cut down the
tree with a plastic butter knife.

Mine are full chisel with the rakers cut back some. One slip and you
would be missing a leg or more!!!

I get the Oregon Micro-chisel chains for my Shindaiwa 488 and love them.
I once cut a couple rocks in half with one of those chains (embedded in
a tree) and the chain survived too.

On Dec 2, 3:42*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
My friend has come by a big roll of chain saw chain, a breaker, and maybe
even a sharpener.

Is this similar to a motorcycle chain breaker that uses a screw to force the
pin out, or does one use a punch?

Is there a master link on a chainsaw chain, or does one put the pin in and
squeeze it/hit it to mushroom the ends?

Steve

Here’s a tool for making chain loops from bulk chainsaw chain:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SBC
Instructions for this tool:
http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/sbc_instructions.pdf