http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

On 2009-12-02, Don Foreman wrote:
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/


Very nice welds Don. Looks like a pleasure to hold.

i

On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 23:20:48 -0600, the infamous Don Foreman
scrawled the following:

http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

Hey, nice! You're weighting it down with those little welding beads
if I'm not mistaken.

--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:36:45 -0600, Ignoramus11104
wrote:

On 2009-12-02, Don Foreman wrote:
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/


Very nice welds Don. Looks like a pleasure to hold.

i

Well thanks, Ig. I'm not proud of the welds, but they'll serve.
They're MIG welds. I can do much better with TIG, but I'm still a bit
antsy about that. I'm comfy with using MIG with my ICD (implanted
cardiac defibrillator) but I'm still not quite sure about E-field of
the starting voltage on TIG triggering my ICD. I still need to
contrive a Faraday vest. No biggie, just haven't yet got around to
it. It'd be a sewing project. I really would like to get back to TIG
if I can but the notion of a 47-joule 750-volt mule-kick-to-chest is
an experience I'd rather skip if it's not necessary to keep me
vertical for a bit longer.

Recall that last January I was told to fuggedabout any form of
electric welding for the rest of my life. Not bloody freakin'
likely...

On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 22:58:15 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 23:20:48 -0600, the infamous Don Foreman
scrawled the following:

http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

Hey, nice! You're weighting it down with those little welding beads
if I'm not mistaken.

Yeh yeh, pile it on. I'm still makin' stuff that works.

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/


DON'T paint them blue!

On Dec 2, 12:20*am, Don Foreman wrote:
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

Nice.

Can you tell us more about your zinc plating?

jsw

Great "how-to" piece in the Foreman standard. Thanks for sharing !
Bob Swinney
Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 01:39:39 -0600, the infamous Don Foreman
scrawled the following:

On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 22:58:15 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 23:20:48 -0600, the infamous Don Foreman
scrawled the following:

http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

Hey, nice! You're weighting it down with those little welding beads
if I'm not mistaken.

Yeh yeh, pile it on. I'm still makin' stuff that works.

I knew you'd understand. g

--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 08:49:15 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

Nice Job Don! I'd like a little more info on the zinc plating as
well. You seem to have a good handle on it!

Pete

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:50:17 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:



Don Foreman wrote:

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!

Thanks Don! I'll investigate that a little more. You using a battery
charger for the power supply?

Pete

No, but a battery charger with a variac and current meter would work.
Zinc doesn't take much current for small pieces. Figure 30 milliamps
per square inch of workpiece.

I think there are instructions on Caswell's online plating manual for
building a current regulator. If you can't find them, I can provide
-- it's my design.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:50:17 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:


Don Foreman wrote:

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!
Thanks Don! I'll investigate that a little more. You using a battery
charger for the power supply?

Pete

No, but a battery charger with a variac and current meter would work.
Zinc doesn't take much current for small pieces. Figure 30 milliamps
per square inch of workpiece.

I think there are instructions on Caswell's online plating manual for
building a current regulator. If you can't find them, I can provide
-- it's my design.


Show a link to that, Don.

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 00:30:33 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:50:17 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:


Don Foreman wrote:

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!
Thanks Don! I'll investigate that a little more. You using a battery
charger for the power supply?

Pete

No, but a battery charger with a variac and current meter would work.
Zinc doesn't take much current for small pieces. Figure 30 milliamps
per square inch of workpiece.

I think there are instructions on Caswell's online plating manual for
building a current regulator. If you can't find them, I can provide
-- it's my design.


Show a link to that, Don.

Looks like it isn't there anymore. Sorry 'bout that. I'll email you
something from my archive. Let me know if you'd like further
assistance.

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 00:30:33 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:50:17 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:


Don Foreman wrote:

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!
Thanks Don! I'll investigate that a little more. You using a battery
charger for the power supply?

Pete

No, but a battery charger with a variac and current meter would work.
Zinc doesn't take much current for small pieces. Figure 30 milliamps
per square inch of workpiece.

I think there are instructions on Caswell's online plating manual for
building a current regulator. If you can't find them, I can provide
-- it's my design.


Show a link to that, Don.

I responded to your request in good faith by sending some design
documents to your posted Email addy. I got an automated reply
inviting me to be a supplicant for the favor of your attention by
filling out a form and authenticating a graphic. I don't care to
interact that way so I think we're done here.

Don Foreman wrote:
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 00:30:33 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:50:17 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!
Thanks Don! I'll investigate that a little more. You using a battery
charger for the power supply?

Pete
No, but a battery charger with a variac and current meter would work.
Zinc doesn't take much current for small pieces. Figure 30 milliamps
per square inch of workpiece.

I think there are instructions on Caswell's online plating manual for
building a current regulator. If you can't find them, I can provide
-- it's my design.

Show a link to that, Don.

I responded to your request in good faith by sending some design
documents to your posted Email addy. I got an automated reply
inviting me to be a supplicant for the favor of your attention by
filling out a form and authenticating a graphic. I don't care to
interact that way so I think we're done here.




I don't suppose you could put the circuit in the dropbox, Don?

The OP isn't the only one watching this thread.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:

This is a simple current regulating circuit:
http://users.telenet.be/davshomepage/current-source.htm

A speaker fader pot is about the right resistance to make it
adjustable.

In practice the device works as well or better wired as a voltage
regulator with an ammeter in series, because smooth-operating higher
resistance pots are much easier to find.

The simplest and cheapest current regulator is a light bulb. The
resistance of the filament increases with its temperature such that
ten times the voltage can draw only 2 or 3 times the current. They are
cheap and locally available in a range of values. Buy some spare
brake, turn and marker bulbs for your car and check them with a
battery charger and meter:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98025

The Variac (adjustable autotransformer) and rectifier circuit is much
more efficient if that matters to you since current regulators can
waste half or more of the input DC voltage. The problem is the high
cost and low availability of Variacs. I suppose you could try a lamp
dimmer instead, tell us the results if you do. The lamp dimmers I have
don't operate smoothly at low output levels.

I prefer adjustable lab supplies. The 5A Caswell one looks good for
the price:
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/rect.htm
However in my experience low-cost lab supplies (other brands) aren't
too reliable.
I haven't fried this one yet:
http://www.lascarelectronics.com/tem...talogger=1 25

They are also useful for testing electronic components and charging
batteries, especially old lead-acids that fail on automatic chargers
and need a higher voltage to break down sulfation. I like to use
supplies with built-in meters for this instead of having a rats nest
of clip leads to separate meters, all hooked to a battery with enough
power to make them burn or explode if they short.

jsw

"Buerste" wrote:

DON'T paint them blue!

Whats wrong with blue? That is the company color for our painted products.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Don Foreman wrote:

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 08:49:15 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/

Nice Job Don! I'd like a little more info on the zinc plating as
well. You seem to have a good handle on it!

Pete

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!


I missed that. I thought the finish was a trick of lighting. Attention to detail, good
on you.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Don Foreman wrote:

On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 00:30:33 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:50:17 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:


Don Foreman wrote:

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!
Thanks Don! I'll investigate that a little more. You using a battery
charger for the power supply?

Pete

No, but a battery charger with a variac and current meter would work.
Zinc doesn't take much current for small pieces. Figure 30 milliamps
per square inch of workpiece.

I think there are instructions on Caswell's online plating manual for
building a current regulator. If you can't find them, I can provide
-- it's my design.


Show a link to that, Don.

I responded to your request in good faith by sending some design
documents to your posted Email addy. I got an automated reply
inviting me to be a supplicant for the favor of your attention by
filling out a form and authenticating a graphic. I don't care to
interact that way so I think we're done here.




I think all I entered was "Death to spammers!" and the graphic code last
time. Avoiding spam is a good thing, however I find that having my mail
server reference a couple open relay databases, along with the usual
spam filter software takes care of 98% of the spam heading in my
direction. Only one or two spam items get through a week.

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Buerste" wrote:

DON'T paint them blue!

Whats wrong with blue? That is the company color for our painted
products.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Far too many things that I have had that failed prematurely and sometimes
spectacularly were BLUE!

On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 09:31:51 +0000, IanM
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 00:30:33 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:50:17 -0500, Pete Snell wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

See
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm

Rather than buying the kit, you can just buy the concentrate, an
anode, and some zinc brightener, and supply your own bucket etc.
Dawn and Soft-scrub are excellent degreasers. I don't use heaters or
agitators. I might get better results if I did, but I'm satisfied
with the results I get: stuff doesn't rust!
Thanks Don! I'll investigate that a little more. You using a battery
charger for the power supply?

Pete
No, but a battery charger with a variac and current meter would work.
Zinc doesn't take much current for small pieces. Figure 30 milliamps
per square inch of workpiece.

I think there are instructions on Caswell's online plating manual for
building a current regulator. If you can't find them, I can provide
-- it's my design.

Show a link to that, Don.

I responded to your request in good faith by sending some design
documents to your posted Email addy. I got an automated reply
inviting me to be a supplicant for the favor of your attention by
filling out a form and authenticating a graphic. I don't care to
interact that way so I think we're done here.




I don't suppose you could put the circuit in the dropbox, Don?

The OP isn't the only one watching this thread.

OK. Look for plating_regulator.pdf. I designed this back in 1998
and it was primitive technology then, but it's cheap and it works.

I'm not always grumpy. G

On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 20:06:00 -0500, Wes wrote:

"Buerste" wrote:

DON'T paint them blue!

Whats wrong with blue? That is the company color for our painted products.

Wes

And for Miller welders. Tawm prefers lavender. He was simply
enchanted with my lavender boat-lift mechanism!

On Fri, 04 Dec 2009 20:08:09 -0500, Wes wrote:

I missed that. I thought the finish was a trick of lighting. Attention to detail, good
on you.

Wes

It may seem pricey initially, but I've found my zinc bucket to be an
excellent long-term investment of under $100. I've been using that
same bucket, 2 gallons of juice and anode for over a decade of plating
various little steel projects. Paint doesn't repel rust for long when
there's metal-to-metal contact or any kind of abrasion. Zinc isn't
forever either, but it endures quite well.

I keep the bucket covered when not in use and maintain the level with
distilled water to make up for evap. If bright zinc is desired then
it's necessary to squirt about 5 ml of brightener in the bucket every
couple of months because it oxidizes over time. That's why the soup
looks so evilly dark brown. I probably should run it thru a coffee
filter again. But I probably won't. Bright zinc doesn't stay bright
for long anyway so I don't worry about it.

"Buerste" wrote:

Far too many things that I have had that failed prematurely and sometimes
spectacularly were BLUE!

Well of course it was premature, the blue paint hadn't worn/rusted off yet.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Dec 5, 12:36*am, Don Foreman wrote:

...Zinc isn't
forever either, but it endures quite well. *

Did you look into copper/nickel plating as well? I'm looking for rust
protection for home-made steel hand tools, to go with the black from
boiling in sodium thiosulphate.

jsw

Don Foreman wrote in
:

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:36:45 -0600, Ignoramus11104
wrote:

On 2009-12-02, Don Foreman wrote:
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/


Very nice welds Don. Looks like a pleasure to hold.

i

Well thanks, Ig. I'm not proud of the welds, but they'll serve.
They're MIG welds. I can do much better with TIG, but I'm still a bit
antsy about that. I'm comfy with using MIG with my ICD (implanted
cardiac defibrillator) but I'm still not quite sure about E-field of
the starting voltage on TIG triggering my ICD. I still need to
contrive a Faraday vest. No biggie, just haven't yet got around to
it. It'd be a sewing project. I really would like to get back to TIG
if I can but the notion of a 47-joule 750-volt mule-kick-to-chest is
an experience I'd rather skip if it's not necessary to keep me
vertical for a bit longer.

Recall that last January I was told to fuggedabout any form of
electric welding for the rest of my life. Not bloody freakin'
likely...

If you want a Faraday vest, get a fencing "lame" (pronounced lam-A).
These are flexible fabric with fine metal wires woven in. They are used
for scoring in competitive fencing. The ones for foil are sleeveless
vests, and would be light & comfortable. Some of the newer ones use a
conductive fabric. Ideally, you want one of the silver plated copper
ones, but the stainless steel ones would probably be fine.

Example: http://www.blue-gauntlet.com/store/products/276

If there is an active fencing club in the area, you can probably get a
used one. Sometimes the wire corrodes and they get dead spots that make
them illegal for competition. The center of the chest isn't where they
tend to go bad, so one that is too tired for fencing would probably be
fine.

Doug White

On Sun, 06 Dec 2009 02:57:36 GMT, Doug White
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote in
:

On Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:36:45 -0600, Ignoramus11104
wrote:

On 2009-12-02, Don Foreman wrote:
http://members.goldengate.net/dforem..._stake_holder/


Very nice welds Don. Looks like a pleasure to hold.

i

Well thanks, Ig. I'm not proud of the welds, but they'll serve.
They're MIG welds. I can do much better with TIG, but I'm still a bit
antsy about that. I'm comfy with using MIG with my ICD (implanted
cardiac defibrillator) but I'm still not quite sure about E-field of
the starting voltage on TIG triggering my ICD. I still need to
contrive a Faraday vest. No biggie, just haven't yet got around to
it. It'd be a sewing project. I really would like to get back to TIG
if I can but the notion of a 47-joule 750-volt mule-kick-to-chest is
an experience I'd rather skip if it's not necessary to keep me
vertical for a bit longer.

Recall that last January I was told to fuggedabout any form of
electric welding for the rest of my life. Not bloody freakin'
likely...

If you want a Faraday vest, get a fencing "lame" (pronounced lam-A).
These are flexible fabric with fine metal wires woven in. They are used
for scoring in competitive fencing. The ones for foil are sleeveless
vests, and would be light & comfortable. Some of the newer ones use a
conductive fabric. Ideally, you want one of the silver plated copper
ones, but the stainless steel ones would probably be fine.

Example: http://www.blue-gauntlet.com/store/products/276

If there is an active fencing club in the area, you can probably get a
used one. Sometimes the wire corrodes and they get dead spots that make
them illegal for competition. The center of the chest isn't where they
tend to go bad, so one that is too tired for fencing would probably be
fine.

Doug White


EXCELLENT IDEA!!!


Gunner, who slaps his head for not thinking of this.



"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost