Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Hi
I am looking to buy a Band saw or scroll saw to use cutting aluminium
and mild steel, sheet and tube.

Silverline do a 350 W band saw with a 14 tpi blade for £85 but I cant
find any information about cutting metal. I don’t want to spend money
on something that will have blunt blades in 5 minute’s.

I want to replace hack sawing, drill and filling curves in steel sheet
that is to thick to cut with tin snips.

Any advice welcome

Chris
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 06:58:44 -0700 (PDT), Chris
wrote:

Hi
I am looking to buy a Band saw or scroll saw to use cutting aluminium
and mild steel, sheet and tube.

Silverline do a 350 W band saw with a 14 tpi blade for £85 but I cant
find any information about cutting metal. I don’t want to spend money
on something that will have blunt blades in 5 minute’s.

I want to replace hack sawing, drill and filling curves in steel sheet
that is to thick to cut with tin snips.

Any advice welcome

Chris


A bandsaw meant for wood cutting can be used on aluminum, but it will
be much too fast for steel and will destroy blades very quickly.
Blade speeds of 100 to 160 feet per minute are suitable for sawing
mild steel.

A 14 tpi blade is suitable for material at least 3/16" thick. You'll
need a finer pitch blade for thinner material.
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Chris wrote:
Hi
I am looking to buy a Band saw or scroll saw to use cutting aluminium
and mild steel, sheet and tube.


http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-wil-8201vs.html

.... Variable from 90 to 340 Surface Feet Per Minute.
"These saws are specially designed to effectively cut a variety of
materials including wood, plastic, bakelite, composites, ferrous and
non-ferrous metals. Capable of contour and straight cutting and resawing.
Can cut delicate curves in both thick and thin stock."

This is what you want. Beware that the market is full of "Wood and
Metal Cutting" band saws that will instantly destroy the blade when
confronted with steel because they run the blade MUCH too fast.
They are inexpensive though.

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.

--Winston
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

I got lucky and bought this at auction for $400.
http://www.rollinsaw.com/band_saws/E...l_band_saw.htm

Cadillac of multi-purpose bandsaws.

Karl


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Chris wrote:
Hi
I am looking to buy a Band saw or scroll saw to use cutting aluminium
and mild steel, sheet and tube.

Silverline do a 350 W band saw with a 14 tpi blade for £85 but I cant
find any information about cutting metal. I don’t want to spend money
on something that will have blunt blades in 5 minute’s.

I want to replace hack sawing, drill and filling curves in steel sheet
that is to thick to cut with tin snips.

Any advice welcome

Chris

http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-wil-8201vs.html

.... Variable from 90 to 340 Surface Feet Per Minute.
"These saws are specially designed to effectively cut a variety of
materials including wood, plastic, bakelite, composites, ferrous and
non-ferrous metals. Capable of contour and straight cutting and resawing.
Can cut delicate curves in both thick and thin stock."

This is what you want. Beware that the market is full of "Wood and
Metal Cutting" band saws that will instantly destroy the blade when
confronted with steel because they run the blade MUCH too fast.
They are inexpensive though.

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.

--Winston


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sep 12, 9:58*am, Chris wrote:
Hi
I am looking to buy a Band saw or scroll saw to use cutting aluminium
and mild steel, sheet and tube.

Silverline do a 350 W band saw with a 14 tpi blade for £85 but I cant
find any information about cutting metal. I don’t want to spend money
on something that will have blunt blades in 5 minute’s.

I want to replace hack sawing, drill and filling curves in steel sheet
that is to thick to cut with tin snips.

Any advice welcome

Chris


A variable speed saber (sabre) saw with the right blades will cut
steel, just not fast. Yesterday I cut off a 10" piece of 5/16" hot
rolled plate with one. Progress was imperceptible but it did
eventually cut off the plate.
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:

Chris wrote:
Hi
I am looking to buy a Band saw or scroll saw to use cutting aluminium
and mild steel, sheet and tube.


http://www.brandsplace.com/0246-wil-8201vs.html

.... Variable from 90 to 340 Surface Feet Per Minute.
"These saws are specially designed to effectively cut a variety of
materials including wood, plastic, bakelite, composites, ferrous and
non-ferrous metals. Capable of contour and straight cutting and resawing.
Can cut delicate curves in both thick and thin stock."


Enco sells this Wilton saw with pulley-change rather than variable
speed, for a lot less. They've been on sale for under $900.

It can still change speeds about instantly from wood to metal by
engaging or disengaging the gearbox.

This is what you want. Beware that the market is full of "Wood and
Metal Cutting" band saws that will instantly destroy the blade when
confronted with steel because they run the blade MUCH too fast.
They are inexpensive though.

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.


Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Don Foreman wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:


(...)

Enco sells this Wilton saw with pulley-change rather than variable
speed, for a lot less. They've been on sale for under $900.


I see the 8 speed pulley change unit for about U$1K:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

That's a much better deal than the variable speed unit and
would also fit in my garage just fine.

(...)

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.



Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.


But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?

--Winston
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Winston wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:


(...)

Enco sells this Wilton saw with pulley-change rather than variable
speed, for a lot less. They've been on sale for under $900.


I see the 8 speed pulley change unit for about U$1K:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

That's a much better deal than the variable speed unit and
would also fit in my garage just fine.

(...)

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.



Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.


But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?

--Winston


As much as I like my Craftsman hand tools , you couldn't run fast enough
to give me another Sears power tool .
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting


Terry Coombs wrote:

Winston wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:


(...)

Enco sells this Wilton saw with pulley-change rather than variable
speed, for a lot less. They've been on sale for under $900.


I see the 8 speed pulley change unit for about U$1K:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

That's a much better deal than the variable speed unit and
would also fit in my garage just fine.

(...)

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.


Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.


But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?

--Winston


As much as I like my Craftsman hand tools , you couldn't run fast enough
to give me another Sears power tool .



That would depend on how much copper and alumininum I could salvage.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


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The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:32:12 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:


(...)

Enco sells this Wilton saw with pulley-change rather than variable
speed, for a lot less. They've been on sale for under $900.


I see the 8 speed pulley change unit for about U$1K:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

That's a much better deal than the variable speed unit and
would also fit in my garage just fine.

(...)

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.



Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.


But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?


Crapsman: J U S T S A Y N O !

--
"Most Folks Are As Happy As They Make Up Their Minds To Be"
-Abraham Lincoln
-----------------------------------------------------------
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Terry Coombs wrote:

But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?

--Winston



As much as I like my Craftsman hand tools , you couldn't run fast enough
to give me another Sears power tool .


Ayup. The recent stuff is just nasty.

--Winston
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:10:59 -0500, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

I got lucky and bought this at auction for $400.
http://www.rollinsaw.com/band_saws/E...l_band_saw.htm

Cadillac of multi-purpose bandsaws.

Karl



WOW!! Hell of a deal!!! New they start at about 3500 bucks!

Gotta argue about the Cadillac part though....the Marvels are a better
machine.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario
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On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:32:12 GMT, Winston
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:


(...)

Enco sells this Wilton saw with pulley-change rather than variable
speed, for a lot less. They've been on sale for under $900.


I see the 8 speed pulley change unit for about U$1K:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

That's a much better deal than the variable speed unit and
would also fit in my garage just fine.

(...)

If you are feeling handy, you could adapt a standard wood cutting
bandsaw for metal use by putting a gearbox between the motor and
drive wheels.



Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.


But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?
--Winston


This one was made decades ago (40's, I think) when Sears sold only
quality tools. My dad did a lot of woodworking with it. He made most
of our furniture out of black walnut and cherry.

It was a good tool for woodworking but its frame just wasn't heavy
enough for the blade tensions and loads associated with cutting metal.
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Don Foreman wrote:

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:32:12 GMT, Winston
wrote:


Don Foreman wrote:

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:


(...)

Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.


But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?
--Winston



This one was made decades ago (40's, I think) when Sears sold only
quality tools. My dad did a lot of woodworking with it. He made most
of our furniture out of black walnut and cherry.

It was a good tool for woodworking but its frame just wasn't heavy
enough for the blade tensions and loads associated with cutting metal.


Ah. I understand. Ferrous metal is right out for that saw.
I wonder if it would cut aluminum at woodworking speeds.


My '70's era Craftsman bandsaw works just fine for that.

--Winston


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Here is (what I believe) you are considering: Silverline bandsaw:
http://www.twenga.co.uk/offer/26890/...812595681.html
Blade length = 1.425 m = 55”, 350 W = 0.54 HP, £85 = $153

Most people recommend bimetal blades for cutting steel, but I’m not
sure how easily they will be found in the size fitting this machine.
The costs might be nearly as expensive as the bandsaw itself. As
others have mentioned you still need to slow down the blade speed for
cutting steel (electrically or mechanically). This has also been
previously discussed on RCM:

13 hits – “blade speed” + “cutting steel”
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...tting+steel%22

Also the blade width (depth) will limit the radius of your cuts. You
may still need to resort to “chain drilling” holes for tight curves.
Scroll saws have “metal cutting” blades, but they are usually the high
carbon steel ones and better suited to nonferrous metals. Possibly you
could adapt (grind, file) some bimetal hacksaw blades to fit a scroll
saw. Additionally you may also still have to modify the machine to
reduce blade speed to make the blade last. Most scroll saws are
designed only for cutting wood.

Bimetal jig saw blades are commonly available, if you want to consider
using a jig saw.

Horizontal/vertical bandsaws are designed primarily for cutting metal
(i.e. have correct blade speed, etc.), but they don’t normally come
with good tables when used in the vertical mode. If you get one of
those you might need to improvise a better table if you frequently use
it in this mode. Also they usually come with deeper blades (1/2” or
better) to resist deflection when used in horizontal mode. Still, it
may be possible to adapt one for your work.
http://www.bandsaws.co.uk/

Certainly a plasma cutter fits the bill for some of the work you
describe, but it may not be within your budget:
188 hits – advice + “plasma cutter”
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.c...rch+this+group

I’m not sure of all the resources you have for searching for used
tools in the UK. If you haven’t considered it, you might try:
http://www.excite.co.uk/directory/Ar...el_Engineering
http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Chris wrote:

Silverline do a 350 W band saw with a 14 tpi blade for £85 but I cant
find any information about cutting metal. I don’t want to spend money
on something that will have blunt blades in 5 minute’s.



How many sfm (surface feet per minute) does the blade run at?

Wood bandsaws tend to run in the 4000 sfm range, metal needs 75 -250 or so.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Jim Wilkins wrote:

A variable speed saber (sabre) saw with the right blades will cut
steel, just not fast. Yesterday I cut off a 10" piece of 5/16" hot
rolled plate with one. Progress was imperceptible but it did
eventually cut off the plate.


I started out hacksawing off a 2" x .25" piece of steel for a riser to get my AXA toolpost
high enough to be able to keep tools on centerline.

Since the detail was clamped into my mill vise, I quickly decided that running a milling
cutter to slice the stock to length would be much faster. I figured the end mill was
cheaper than pulling out the sawsall. I can end sharpen my endmills. Someday I'll have a
metal bandsaw.

Wes

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On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 04:10:19 GMT, Winston
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:32:12 GMT, Winston
wrote:


Don Foreman wrote:

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:39:49 GMT, Winston
wrote:


(...)

Caution! Some wood saws aren't rigid enough to handle metal cutting
loads. I tried this with a Craftsman saw. It tossed blades with
aggrivating frequency.

But Don, it's a Sears power tool. What could possibly go wrong?
--Winston



This one was made decades ago (40's, I think) when Sears sold only
quality tools. My dad did a lot of woodworking with it. He made most
of our furniture out of black walnut and cherry.

It was a good tool for woodworking but its frame just wasn't heavy
enough for the blade tensions and loads associated with cutting metal.


Ah. I understand. Ferrous metal is right out for that saw.
I wonder if it would cut aluminum at woodworking speeds.


My '70's era Craftsman bandsaw works just fine for that.


If it's the same Craftsman bandsaw I had at work, there was a speed
reducer available for it and it would cut ferrous metals. My dad's
Craftsman was a little 3-wheeler.

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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Don Foreman wrote:

If it's the same Craftsman bandsaw I had at work, there was a speed
reducer available for it and it would cut ferrous metals.


Now *there's* another interesting bit of info.

Thanks!

--Winston


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Chris wrote:

Hi
I am looking to buy a Band saw or scroll saw to use cutting aluminium
and mild steel, sheet and tube.

Silverline do a 350 W band saw with a 14 tpi blade for £85 but I cant
find any information about cutting metal. I don’t want to spend money
on something that will have blunt blades in 5 minute’s.

I want to replace hack sawing, drill and filling curves in steel sheet
that is to thick to cut with tin snips.

Any advice welcome

Chris


Is something like a hand bandsaw available in your area? Portaband?

Wes
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"Winston" wrote in message
news:Av_yk.112$8v5.81@trnddc01...
Ed Huntress wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...



What, throwing good money after bad? titter


Larry, I'm rescuing the economy.
Stifle yourself.

It depends on how old the bandsaw is. Really old Sears bandsaws were made
by Walker-Turner (taken over and rebranded as Delta a few years later).
IIRC, some others were made by Atlas.

We had a Walker-Turner at my old shop that was identical to the
woodworking version I own -- 14", vertical -- that had a countershaft for
reducing blade speed to metalcutting speeds. That was a factory deal, not
an add-on, and the same model was sold under the Craftsman brand at one
time It worked fine, but it was not for heavy work. I cut a lot of 1/8"
CR steel on it. On 1/4" it was slow as molasses but it didn't complain.
You wanted to have a comfortable chair handy if you used it on 1/4".


Whoa. That wasn't the level of performance I envisioned at all!


If you're looking at a 14" woodworking saw, Delta or Walker-Turner type with
a countershaft and pulley to give you metalworking blade speeds, you aren't
going to get much more performance. They don't have the power nor the
ability to deliver it to the cut. The blade guides and so on are still
pretty lightweight, and as Don (I think?) mentioned, you can't get enough
blade tension with them to get good metalworking performance. That is, in
steel.


I think I'm gonna clamp my sawzall, blade up to a chunk of wood
clamped in my Workmate. Similar performance and not nearly the
time and money committment entailed in adding a tranny to my
band saw.


Hmm...be sure to wear safety goggles. g

--
Ed Huntress


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)

If you're looking at a 14" woodworking saw, Delta or Walker-Turner type with
a countershaft and pulley to give you metalworking blade speeds, you aren't
going to get much more performance. They don't have the power nor the
ability to deliver it to the cut. The blade guides and so on are still
pretty lightweight, and as Don (I think?) mentioned, you can't get enough
blade tension with them to get good metalworking performance. That is, in
steel.


Another childhood illusion shot to hell.
Though I do appreciate the money you saved me.

The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.
Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".

I think I'm gonna clamp my sawzall, blade up to a chunk of wood
clamped in my Workmate. Similar performance and not nearly the
time and money committment entailed in adding a tranny to my
band saw.



Hmm...be sure to wear safety goggles. g


But, of course!

--Winston
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"Winston" wrote in message
newsg1zk.73$nl3.60@trnddc05...
Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)

If you're looking at a 14" woodworking saw, Delta or Walker-Turner type
with a countershaft and pulley to give you metalworking blade speeds, you
aren't going to get much more performance. They don't have the power nor
the ability to deliver it to the cut. The blade guides and so on are
still pretty lightweight, and as Don (I think?) mentioned, you can't get
enough blade tension with them to get good metalworking performance. That
is, in steel.


Another childhood illusion shot to hell.
Though I do appreciate the money you saved me.

The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.
Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".


Wilke really understood how to engineer a metalcutting bandsaw. DoAll's
machines are a world apart from the lightweight machines we're talking about
here.


I think I'm gonna clamp my sawzall, blade up to a chunk of wood
clamped in my Workmate. Similar performance and not nearly the
time and money committment entailed in adding a tranny to my
band saw.



Hmm...be sure to wear safety goggles. g


But, of course!

--Winston


Good luck with it, Winston.

--
Ed Huntress


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 21:30:22 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed
Huntress" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 16:48:00 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Don Foreman wrote:

If it's the same Craftsman bandsaw I had at work, there was a speed
reducer available for it and it would cut ferrous metals.

Now *there's* another interesting bit of info.


What, throwing good money after bad? titter


It depends on how old the bandsaw is. Really old Sears bandsaws were made by
Walker-Turner (taken over and rebranded as Delta a few years later). IIRC,
some others were made by Atlas.

We had a Walker-Turner at my old shop that was identical to the woodworking
version I own -- 14", vertical -- that had a countershaft for reducing blade
speed to metalcutting speeds. That was a factory deal, not an add-on, and
the same model was sold under the Craftsman brand at one time It worked


Except that it would taint your woodworking when you went back to it.


fine, but it was not for heavy work. I cut a lot of 1/8" CR steel on it. On
1/4" it was slow as molasses but it didn't complain. You wanted to have a
comfortable chair handy if you used it on 1/4".


Ever try cutting oil, boy? gd&r


My table saur is a Davis & Wells, so I'm familiar with big, honkin',
heavy, old tools. Walker Turner is a good name. For 30 years, Searz
has -absolutely_not- been one.

--
Guard well within yourself that treasure, kindness. Know how to give without
hesitation, how to lose without regret, how to acquire without meanness.
-- George Sand


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 02:18:08 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Ed Huntress wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...



What, throwing good money after bad? titter


Larry, I'm rescuing the economy.
Stifle yourself.


DAMN! Warn me before you do those things. YOu owe me a keyboard and
monitor. Tea (with cream) everywhere, Winnie! LOL!


It depends on how old the bandsaw is. Really old Sears bandsaws were made by
Walker-Turner (taken over and rebranded as Delta a few years later). IIRC,
some others were made by Atlas.

We had a Walker-Turner at my old shop that was identical to the woodworking
version I own -- 14", vertical -- that had a countershaft for reducing blade
speed to metalcutting speeds. That was a factory deal, not an add-on, and
the same model was sold under the Craftsman brand at one time It worked
fine, but it was not for heavy work. I cut a lot of 1/8" CR steel on it. On
1/4" it was slow as molasses but it didn't complain. You wanted to have a
comfortable chair handy if you used it on 1/4".


Whoa. That wasn't the level of performance I envisioned at all!

I think I'm gonna clamp my sawzall, blade up to a chunk of wood
clamped in my Workmate. Similar performance and not nearly the
time and money committment entailed in adding a tranny to my
band saw.


Tranny? Oh, sorry, you meant "transmission", didn't you?
(Darn those provocative spam titles, anyway.)

--
Guard well within yourself that treasure, kindness. Know how to give without
hesitation, how to lose without regret, how to acquire without meanness.
-- George Sand
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 05:26:45 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)

If you're looking at a 14" woodworking saw, Delta or Walker-Turner type with
a countershaft and pulley to give you metalworking blade speeds, you aren't
going to get much more performance. They don't have the power nor the
ability to deliver it to the cut. The blade guides and so on are still
pretty lightweight, and as Don (I think?) mentioned, you can't get enough
blade tension with them to get good metalworking performance. That is, in
steel.


Another childhood illusion shot to hell.
Though I do appreciate the money you saved me.


Hey, I thought you were rescuing the economy...


The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.
Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".


Here's a sweet li'l machine:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/upshift/2474513802/


I think I'm gonna clamp my sawzall, blade up to a chunk of wood
clamped in my Workmate. Similar performance and not nearly the
time and money committment entailed in adding a tranny to my
band saw.



Hmm...be sure to wear safety goggles. g


But, of course!


And a face mask, flak jacket (OK, welding apron), gloves.


--
Guard well within yourself that treasure, kindness. Know how to give without
hesitation, how to lose without regret, how to acquire without meanness.
-- George Sand
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 21:30:22 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed
Huntress" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 16:48:00 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Don Foreman wrote:

If it's the same Craftsman bandsaw I had at work, there was a speed
reducer available for it and it would cut ferrous metals.

Now *there's* another interesting bit of info.

What, throwing good money after bad? titter


It depends on how old the bandsaw is. Really old Sears bandsaws were made
by
Walker-Turner (taken over and rebranded as Delta a few years later). IIRC,
some others were made by Atlas.

We had a Walker-Turner at my old shop that was identical to the
woodworking
version I own -- 14", vertical -- that had a countershaft for reducing
blade
speed to metalcutting speeds. That was a factory deal, not an add-on, and
the same model was sold under the Craftsman brand at one time It worked


Except that it would taint your woodworking when you went back to it.


I have no problem cleaning the tires and so on. In fact, I do it every time
I cut a frozen tuna into steaks with it. You want taint? Leave the tuna
sawdust in your bandsaw for a week. THAT's taint. d8-)

Before my uncle passed away, and he had his 42' boat rigged for tuna
fishing, I was slicing more tuna than wood.

I don't use my own W-T for cutting steel, BTW. I had the parts for the
countershaft but I never put them together, having learned in the shop I
worked in (and co-owned, back in the mid-'70s) that the machine is not what
I want for cutting steel. I gave them to a friend who's a whiz with a
bandsaw. I cut some aluminum, but I clean the tires and blade carefully
afterward.



fine, but it was not for heavy work. I cut a lot of 1/8" CR steel on it.
On
1/4" it was slow as molasses but it didn't complain. You wanted to have a
comfortable chair handy if you used it on 1/4".


Ever try cutting oil, boy? gd&r


We used the stick bandsaw cutting lubricant sold by DoAll. Use that, and
you'll never use cutting oil on a stand-up bandsaw again. It works great and
it's much less mess.



My table saur is a Davis & Wells, so I'm familiar with big, honkin',
heavy, old tools. Walker Turner is a good name. For 30 years, Searz
has -absolutely_not- been one.


Yeah, that's about right. I've mentioned that my dad was a Sears store
manager, having worked for them from 1939 through 1962, with time out for
the Marines in WWII. I have a lot of the good old Sears tools. My hand
circular saw, bought in 1961 and used *heavily* for many years, is still my
preferred saw and has its original bearings.

--
Ed Huntress


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 05:26:45 GMT, Winston
wrote:


The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.


If you've got $500 - $1000 to spend you should be able to find a DoAll
ML or Metalmaster. Mine was uglier than this one when I bought it.
Weighs less than 1000# and doesn't require much more space than the
cheapo 4x6 horizontals.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DOALL-VERTICAL-B...QQcmdZViewItem

Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".

I woke up with "Coyote" in my head this morning.

--
Ned Simmons
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 05:26:45 GMT, Winston
wrote:

Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)

If you're looking at a 14" woodworking saw, Delta or Walker-Turner type with
a countershaft and pulley to give you metalworking blade speeds, you aren't
going to get much more performance. They don't have the power nor the
ability to deliver it to the cut. The blade guides and so on are still
pretty lightweight, and as Don (I think?) mentioned, you can't get enough
blade tension with them to get good metalworking performance. That is, in
steel.


Another childhood illusion shot to hell.
Though I do appreciate the money you saved me.

The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.
Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".

I think I'm gonna clamp my sawzall, blade up to a chunk of wood
clamped in my Workmate. Similar performance and not nearly the
time and money committment entailed in adding a tranny to my
band saw.



Hmm...be sure to wear safety goggles. g


But, of course!

--Winston



Anyone want a DoAll 18" varidrive/2 range bandsaw with blade welder
etc? Cheap/trade

Ive got one that Id sell very cheaply. the caviat is that the cast
iron plate that holds all the drive parts is cracked in half..the
failure of an older weld.

one needs to make a new plate, install a shaft, drill a couple holes
and mount it back up in place.

the other caviat is that you have to pick it up near Bakersfield,
California. I can load with my forklift.

I picked it up a couple years ago as a restoration project, but
frankly...Ive got more than enough on my plate as it is and have more
vertical AND horizontal bandsaws then I need. The 18" walker turner,
the 16" walker turner verticlls (with varidrive/gearboxes, the (2)
7x12 Emerson horizontal saws, the Dayton 7x12 horizontal, and the big
Spartan hydraulic horizontal (under restoration)

I also have a 1978 vintage Marvel fully automatic saw, will cut a 15"
round to +/- .008 for sale...$3500. in Costa Mesa, California. Will
need to be moved by machinery mover..probably 8,000 lbs. In excellent
condition and recently serviced by factory techs.

Ive got to sell this for my client in the next two weeks so I can put
3 Hydropoints in place.

I have pictures available.

search terms for the marvel....."armstrong-blum"

Gunner


"The American people will never knowingly adopt socialism, but under the
name of liberalism they will adopt every fragment of the socialist program
until one day America will be a socialist nation without ever knowing how it
happened." -- Norman Thomas, American socialist


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:39:53 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed
Huntress" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .


Except that it would taint your woodworking when you went back to it.


I have no problem cleaning the tires and so on. In fact, I do it every time
I cut a frozen tuna into steaks with it. You want taint? Leave the tuna
sawdust in your bandsaw for a week. THAT's taint. d8-)


Google the Wreck for the "resawed beans" thread. It'll gitcha
gigglin'.


Before my uncle passed away, and he had his 42' boat rigged for tuna
fishing, I was slicing more tuna than wood.


How lovely. gag


I don't use my own W-T for cutting steel, BTW. I had the parts for the
countershaft but I never put them together, having learned in the shop I
worked in (and co-owned, back in the mid-'70s) that the machine is not what
I want for cutting steel. I gave them to a friend who's a whiz with a
bandsaw. I cut some aluminum, but I clean the tires and blade carefully
afterward.


What, you don't like accidental thermite? Wuss!


fine, but it was not for heavy work. I cut a lot of 1/8" CR steel on it.
On
1/4" it was slow as molasses but it didn't complain. You wanted to have a
comfortable chair handy if you used it on 1/4".


Ever try cutting oil, boy? gd&r


We used the stick bandsaw cutting lubricant sold by DoAll. Use that, and
you'll never use cutting oil on a stand-up bandsaw again. It works great and
it's much less mess.


I've used Marvel Mystery Oil which was in a handy oiler the last
couple times. Works like a charm.


My table saur is a Davis & Wells, so I'm familiar with big, honkin',
heavy, old tools. Walker Turner is a good name. For 30 years, Searz
has -absolutely_not- been one.


Yeah, that's about right. I've mentioned that my dad was a Sears store
manager, having worked for them from 1939 through 1962, with time out for
the Marines in WWII. I have a lot of the good old Sears tools. My hand
circular saw, bought in 1961 and used *heavily* for many years, is still my
preferred saw and has its original bearings.


I've asked Lew to put me in his will for his old Craftsman drill
press. It has a nice, long quill travel, maybe 6+ inches. I should
probably press for the clause to read "with shipping", huh?

--
Guard well within yourself that treasure, kindness. Know how to give without
hesitation, how to lose without regret, how to acquire without meanness.
-- George Sand
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)

Good luck with it, Winston.


Thanks, Ed.

--Winston
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Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 02:18:08 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...



What, throwing good money after bad? titter


Larry, I'm rescuing the economy.
Stifle yourself.



DAMN! Warn me before you do those things. YOu owe me a keyboard and
monitor. Tea (with cream) everywhere, Winnie! LOL!


(...)

So when I'm completely out of money, the economy is rescued, right?

(...)

Tranny? Oh, sorry, you meant "transmission", didn't you?
(Darn those provocative spam titles, anyway.)


Well, yes. Minus the clutch and throwout bearing, of course.

--Winston
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 05:26:45 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:


Ed Huntress wrote:

(...)


If you're looking at a 14" woodworking saw, Delta or Walker-Turner type with
a countershaft and pulley to give you metalworking blade speeds, you aren't
going to get much more performance. They don't have the power nor the
ability to deliver it to the cut. The blade guides and so on are still
pretty lightweight, and as Don (I think?) mentioned, you can't get enough
blade tension with them to get good metalworking performance. That is, in
steel.


Another childhood illusion shot to hell.
Though I do appreciate the money you saved me.



Hey, I thought you were rescuing the economy...


See previous reply. I'm almost ready to declare
"Mission Accomplished".

(If that doesn't start the political rant process,
nothing will.)

The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.
Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".



Here's a sweet li'l machine:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/upshift/2474513802/


And there's plenty of room for the "Microlux" sticker.

(...)

Hmm...be sure to wear safety goggles. g


But, of course!



And a face mask, flak jacket (OK, welding apron), gloves.


You've seen me work before, haven't you, Larry?

--Winston
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 12:10:53 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 05:26:45 GMT, Winston
wrote:


The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.


If you've got $500 - $1000 to spend you should be able to find a DoAll
ML or Metalmaster. Mine was uglier than this one when I bought it.
Weighs less than 1000# and doesn't require much more space than the
cheapo 4x6 horizontals.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DOALL-VERTICAL-B...QQcmdZViewItem

Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".

I woke up with "Coyote" in my head this morning.



Got work for me?

Gunner, owner
Coyote Engineering



"The American people will never knowingly adopt socialism, but under the
name of liberalism they will adopt every fragment of the socialist program
until one day America will be a socialist nation without ever knowing how it
happened." -- Norman Thomas, American socialist


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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

Ned Simmons wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 05:26:45 GMT, Winston
wrote:


The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.



If you've got $500 - $1000 to spend you should be able to find a DoAll
ML or Metalmaster. Mine was uglier than this one when I bought it.
Weighs less than 1000# and doesn't require much more space than the
cheapo 4x6 horizontals.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DOALL-VERTICAL-B...QQcmdZViewItem


That's really cool!

Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".


I woke up with "Coyote" in my head this morning.


Hey, better that than 'River'!

--Winston
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:39:53 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed
Huntress" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..


Except that it would taint your woodworking when you went back to it.


I have no problem cleaning the tires and so on. In fact, I do it every
time
I cut a frozen tuna into steaks with it. You want taint? Leave the tuna
sawdust in your bandsaw for a week. THAT's taint. d8-)


Google the Wreck for the "resawed beans" thread. It'll gitcha
gigglin'.


g Funny. BTW, I also use it for resawing slabs of frozen kale and collard
greens. My wife won't eat them, so, when they're in season and cheap, I buy
a big bunch and blanch them in our huge pot. Then I put them in a big
sheet-cake pan and put another sheet-cake pan on top of it, squeezing out
the water. Then I weight the upper pan and throw the whole mess into my
stand-up freezer (between the blocks of fish).

When the sheet is frozen solid I run some water in the top pan and pull it
off, then warm the bottom of the bottom pan and pop out the giant
kale-sicle. Then I dice them into serving-size blocks with the bandsaw, wrap
each in freezer wrap, and pop them back into the freezer. I can cut up a
year's supply in a couple of steps.

snip

I've asked Lew to put me in his will for his old Craftsman drill
press. It has a nice, long quill travel, maybe 6+ inches. I should
probably press for the clause to read "with shipping", huh?


Don't be greedy. (That drill press may be a Walker-Turner, too.)

--
Ed Huntress


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On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 18:17:05 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 02:18:08 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
m...


What, throwing good money after bad? titter

Larry, I'm rescuing the economy.
Stifle yourself.



DAMN! Warn me before you do those things. YOu owe me a keyboard and
monitor. Tea (with cream) everywhere, Winnie! LOL!


(...)

So when I'm completely out of money, the economy is rescued, right?


Correct. Got my address. I'll take checks, cash, or money orders with
a smile, thank you very much.


(...)

Tranny? Oh, sorry, you meant "transmission", didn't you?
(Darn those provocative spam titles, anyway.)


Well, yes. Minus the clutch and throwout bearing, of course.


Uh, never mind.

--
Guard well within yourself that treasure, kindness. Know how to give without
hesitation, how to lose without regret, how to acquire without meanness.
-- George Sand
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Default Buying Band saw- advice needed- mild steel cutting

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 18:32:43 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Winston quickly quoth:

Ned Simmons wrote:

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 05:26:45 GMT, Winston
wrote:


The huge DoAll at work spoiled me bigtime.



If you've got $500 - $1000 to spend you should be able to find a DoAll
ML or Metalmaster. Mine was uglier than this one when I bought it.
Weighs less than 1000# and doesn't require much more space than the
cheapo 4x6 horizontals.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DOALL-VERTICAL-B...QQcmdZViewItem


That's really cool!


If you like 800 pound gorillas.


Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".


I woke up with "Coyote" in my head this morning.


Hey, better that than 'River'!


I'd always related to 'Twisted', but then I got her "Chalk Mark in a
Rainstorm" album and fell for 'Cool Water', 'Lakota', and 'Snakes and
Ladders'.

--
Guard well within yourself that treasure, kindness. Know how to give without
hesitation, how to lose without regret, how to acquire without meanness.
-- George Sand
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Larry Jaques wrote:

That's really cool!



If you like 800 pound gorillas.


Was talking to a bud of mine about that.
Problem really isn't affording the tools.
That saw is a prime example.
The problem is *housing* all the tools you want.



Like Joni said "you dont know what you've got
till its gone".

I woke up with "Coyote" in my head this morning.


Hey, better that than 'River'!



I'd always related to 'Twisted', but then I got her "Chalk Mark in a
Rainstorm" album and fell for 'Cool Water', 'Lakota', and 'Snakes and
Ladders'.


I shall have to have a listen.
I assume there are Joni Mitchell songs that are bright and optimistic?

Perhaps not.

--Winston
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