The patient is a 3500 Watt Homelite generator powered by a 8HP Briggs
engine with a two piece Flo-Jet carburetor. The fuel system had
solidified with stale gas. I replaced the fuel line and filter, and
cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor. Is the carburetor adjusted with the
speed governor connected, or is the governor disconnected for inital jet
adjustments, and then reassembled?

Kevin Gallimore


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

On Fri, 04 Jul 2008 16:55:41 -0400, axolotl
wrote:

The patient is a 3500 Watt Homelite generator powered by a 8HP Briggs
engine with a two piece Flo-Jet carburetor. The fuel system had
solidified with stale gas. I replaced the fuel line and filter, and
cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor. Is the carburetor adjusted with the
speed governor connected, or is the governor disconnected for inital jet
adjustments, and then reassembled?

Kevin Gallimore

Did you try getting the Briggs manual? They have many of
their manuals available as pdf's. See:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/

Have the model number ready, makes finding the right manual
a bit easier.

Most of the carb settings are just a certain number of turns
on the jet screw. Just don't over tighten the screw when you
turn it in. Barely finger tight is plenty enough. Then back
it out the number of turns specified.

The older manuals are just scanned images, but useable.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:

Did you try getting the Briggs manual? They have many of
their manuals available as pdf's. See:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/

I bought the repair manual, but it is silent on the question of what to
do with the governor when adjusting the jets. The governor slams the
throttle back and forth as the adjustments are attemted.

Kevin Gallimore


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

Kevin,
Leave it on. All the linkage should be in place. The only thing you
should have to do outside of the governor blade flapping is setting the carb
for your altitude. with no load the blade should run flat once warm. It's
just the screw settings on the side, Idle and main. Pretty straight forward
and it should be on the website or manual somewhere. I have noticed some of
the service manuals have taken a dive in quality. (I had a Stihl TS760 I
rebuilt and the $55.00 manual was ****. They make too many assumptions in my
opinion.

Rob
"axolotl" wrote in message
...
The patient is a 3500 Watt Homelite generator powered by a 8HP Briggs
engine with a two piece Flo-Jet carburetor. The fuel system had solidified
with stale gas. I replaced the fuel line and filter, and cleaned and
rebuilt the carburetor. Is the carburetor adjusted with the speed governor
connected, or is the governor disconnected for inital jet adjustments, and
then reassembled?

Kevin Gallimore


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000
Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 13:27:56 -0400, axolotl
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:

Did you try getting the Briggs manual? They have many of
their manuals available as pdf's. See:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/

I bought the repair manual, but it is silent on the question of what to
do with the governor when adjusting the jets. The governor slams the
throttle back and forth as the adjustments are attemted.

Kevin Gallimore

You shouldn't have to change the needle valve setting much,
if at all from its initial setting.

The governor slamming back and forth while your adjusting
would be normal in my opinion. It works on RPM and is just
trying to compensate for your changes. However the
RPM/governor should settle down pretty quick after you
adjust it a bit. You really shouldn't have to change the
setting by more than a half turn in either direction if at
all. Anymore than that and I would say something else is
still wrong with it (shrug).

What symptoms are you experiencing (from the initial carb
settings) that makes you think the needle valves need
farther adjustment?

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 13:27:56 -0400, axolotl
wrote:

What symptoms are you experiencing (from the initial carb
settings) that makes you think the needle valves need
farther adjustment?

The problem of the moment is that the engine requires choke to keep
running.

Kevin Gallimore


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

could also be low float level


"axolotl" wrote in message
...
Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 13:27:56 -0400, axolotl
wrote:

What symptoms are you experiencing (from the initial carb
settings) that makes you think the needle valves need
farther adjustment?

The problem of the moment is that the engine requires choke to keep
running.

Kevin Gallimore



** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Tue, 08 Jul 2008 19:33:58 -0400, axolotl
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 13:27:56 -0400, axolotl
wrote:

What symptoms are you experiencing (from the initial carb
settings) that makes you think the needle valves need
farther adjustment?

The problem of the moment is that the engine requires choke to keep
running.

Some guesses, maybe you have already checked/tried...

Are you really getting good gas flow to the carb? You can
take the bowl off and with the gas on see how well it flows
past the needle valve and float setup (catch it in a shallow
cup/container). You should get a good steady dribble.

Do you by chance have any air/vacuum leaks? ie the carb is
bolted down good to the side of the engine intake (snug,
doesn't have to be maximum torque) and the gasket isn't
leaking.

When you were rebuilding the carb did the main jet passage
way get cleaned out well? Sometimes you can screw the needle
valve out and carefully spray carb cleaner through the
passageway and/or compressed air. If you use compressed air
don't get carried away and blow something up with too much
pressure.

Can you or did you do a quick compression test? May point to
some more serious problems inside the beastie.

I would lean towards it being a vacuum leak in between the
carb and the engine if you are pretty sure the carb is okay.

Maybe someone else has a few more ideas.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email