I have a Black and Decker toaster oven. When using it as a toaster it
seems that "popup" is controlled by a small circuit board which is
controlled by a pot on the front panel. The board activates a solenoid
which "pops" or shuts off the toaster.
In oven mode there there is a mechanical bi metalic thermostat mounted
on an L bracket that has a control shaft which also comes through the
front panel. This device is not in contact with the oven cavity so the
current flowing through it heats the bi metal and thus control the
duty cycle of the thing. This and its setting ultimately governs the
oven temperature.
The thermostat contacts are badly burned. I tried burnishing them but
only succeeded in widening the gap. Now I have to press on the
contacts to complete the circuit and even if I can remove the stop and
reset the shaft screw the unit is still burned and I imagine the
calibration will be off anyway.
I would really just like to replace the damn thing but naturally B&D
doesen't offer that part for replacement. Sure, buy a new oven....
Hypothetically speaking, if I were to obtain a similar thermostat,
similarly mounted, in a similar oven, that draws the same amount of
current as mine, would it function as the original did?
I realize that there are those among us who may think this question
silly and berate me for even asking it. After all, toaster ovens are
not very expensive and so why bother?
But I've been a service technician for over 45 years and semi retired
now and it just goes agasinst the grain to just throw something away
when it seems like it should be fixed.
Any opinions are appreciated. Lenny.

" writes:

I have a Black and Decker toaster oven. When using it as a toaster it
seems that "popup" is controlled by a small circuit board which is
controlled by a pot on the front panel. The board activates a solenoid
which "pops" or shuts off the toaster.
In oven mode there there is a mechanical bi metalic thermostat mounted
on an L bracket that has a control shaft which also comes through the
front panel. This device is not in contact with the oven cavity so the
current flowing through it heats the bi metal and thus control the
duty cycle of the thing. This and its setting ultimately governs the
oven temperature.
The thermostat contacts are badly burned. I tried burnishing them but
only succeeded in widening the gap. Now I have to press on the
contacts to complete the circuit and even if I can remove the stop and
reset the shaft screw the unit is still burned and I imagine the
calibration will be off anyway.
I would really just like to replace the damn thing but naturally B&D
doesen't offer that part for replacement. Sure, buy a new oven....
Hypothetically speaking, if I were to obtain a similar thermostat,
similarly mounted, in a similar oven, that draws the same amount of
current as mine, would it function as the original did?
I realize that there are those among us who may think this question
silly and berate me for even asking it. After all, toaster ovens are
not very expensive and so why bother?
But I've been a service technician for over 45 years and semi retired
now and it just goes agasinst the grain to just throw something away
when it seems like it should be fixed.
Any opinions are appreciated. Lenny.

This is a Toastmaster but it's probably similar:

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tstovn1.gif

I do not think it's the current flowing through the thermostat, but
its proxiimty to the oven itself by being screwed to the oven wall that
determines the duty cycle.

Can't you bend the contacts to make up for the additonal gap? I've
had to do that periodically not because of burned contacts, but because
it tends to want to stay on in the Off position of the temperature control.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

On Mar 12, 6:26*pm, Sam Goldwasser wrote:
" writes:
I have a Black and Decker toaster oven. When using it as a toaster it
seems that "popup" is controlled by a small circuit board which is
controlled by a pot on the front panel. The board activates a solenoid
which "pops" or shuts off the toaster.
In oven mode there there is a mechanical bi metalic thermostat mounted
on an L bracket that has a control shaft which also comes through the
front panel. This device is not in contact with the oven cavity so the
current flowing through it heats the bi metal and thus control the
duty cycle of the thing. This and its setting ultimately governs the
oven temperature.
The thermostat contacts are badly burned. I tried burnishing them but
only succeeded in widening the gap. Now I have to press on the
contacts to complete the circuit and even if I can remove the stop and
reset the shaft screw the unit is still burned and I imagine the
calibration will be off anyway.
I would really just like to replace the damn thing but naturally B&D
doesen't offer that part for replacement. Sure, buy a new oven....
Hypothetically speaking, if I were to obtain a similar thermostat,
similarly mounted, in a similar oven, that draws the same amount of
current as mine, would it function as the original did?
I realize that there are those among us who may think this question
silly and berate me for even asking it. After all, toaster ovens are
not very expensive and so why bother?
But I've been a service technician for over 45 years and semi retired
now and it just goes agasinst the grain to just throw something away
when it seems like it should be fixed.
Any opinions are appreciated. Lenny.

This is a Toastmaster but it's probably similar:

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tstovn1.gif

I do not think it's the current flowing through the thermostat, but
its proxiimty to the oven itself by being screwed to the oven wall that
determines the duty cycle.

Can't you bend the contacts to make up for the additonal gap? *I've
had to do that periodically not because of burned contacts, but because
it tends to want to stay on in the Off position of the temperature control..

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
*Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
* * * * | Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. *Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've tried to do that Sam but they really are so badly charred that I
don't think its possible. The thing about your theory though is that
the contacts themselves glow red as soon as contact is made. and then
of course the bimetal reacts. It seems like the proximity of the thing
to the outside oven wall would take a long time to heat the bi metal,
but maybe thats the idea. I don't know. Lenny.