Philips plasma 42PF9945 (UK spec) Chassis FTP1.1EE
I have the service manual (FWIW) and all the voltages except the 3.3v
are within spec.
This tv works with perfect picture and sound, for variable periods of
seconds to several minutes before cutting out and restarting, (with the
interval naturally getting smaller) to finally stopping in (hard) protect.
When cooled down it will work again for a similar period.
Does the same whether in SDM or not.

The only errors I can find in the log are "FBX supply" and the 3.3v
supply *is* low at a nominal 3v, which dips to 2.8V as the TV gets hot.
BUT the thing that is confusing me, is that the TV will restart on 2.8V
and run for a few minutes so is this a red herring?

Replacing the PSU board is economically unfeasable, as is replacing the
SSB.
I have checked the obvious candidates on the PSU, which was
inconclusive. Hot air gun and freezer are getting me nowhere
Now wondering if it's worth replacing caps en mass and the diode for
3.3v supply (even though it seems ok) - or is this just a lost cause?

Lee
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Lee wrote:
Philips plasma 42PF9945 (UK spec) Chassis FTP1.1EE
I have the service manual (FWIW) and all the voltages except the 3.3v
are within spec.
This tv works with perfect picture and sound, for variable periods of
seconds to several minutes before cutting out and restarting, (with the
interval naturally getting smaller) to finally stopping in (hard) protect.
When cooled down it will work again for a similar period.
Does the same whether in SDM or not.

The only errors I can find in the log are "FBX supply" and the 3.3v
supply *is* low at a nominal 3v, which dips to 2.8V as the TV gets hot.
BUT the thing that is confusing me, is that the TV will restart on 2.8V
and run for a few minutes so is this a red herring?

Replacing the PSU board is economically unfeasable, as is replacing the
SSB.
I have checked the obvious candidates on the PSU, which was
inconclusive. Hot air gun and freezer are getting me nowhere
Now wondering if it's worth replacing caps en mass and the diode for
3.3v supply (even though it seems ok) - or is this just a lost cause?

Lee


Try using some freeze spray, it shouldn't take too long to narrow things
down. In a pinch you can use a can of air duster held upside down.

Check that the diodes are screwed down tightly. One loose screw and
you'll get these symptoms.

Also try putting a scope on the common-cathode end of the 3.3V diodes.
You may have one or both diodes failing.


Also try jumpering each capacitor in the 3.3v supply one at a time.
You're likely to find the problem in seconds that way.

As a last resort, you could tack on a laptop's 3.3 volt power supply,
they're $10 to $20.