The pipes behind the kitchen cabinets at the cottage froze and split and
rather than take out the cabinets I think I'll saw through the back panel
behind the drawers etcetera and get at the pipes thataway. A circular saw
is kind of a big and possibly troublesome thing in that small space. If you
have one of those newfangled saws that look like a dremel on steroids,
do'you think that would be what I should use? Cabinet back is 3/4" birch
ply (and there's drywall behind, but that's easy).

jtaylor wrote:
The pipes behind the kitchen cabinets at the cottage froze and split and
rather than take out the cabinets I think I'll saw through the back panel
behind the drawers etcetera and get at the pipes thataway. A circular saw
is kind of a big and possibly troublesome thing in that small space. If you
have one of those newfangled saws that look like a dremel on steroids,
do'you think that would be what I should use? Cabinet back is 3/4" birch
ply (and there's drywall behind, but that's easy).


Those are ideal for exctly that.
Get some good blades/bits for it, and go to town.

--
- -
Rex Burkheimer
WM Automotive
Fort Worth TX

If you mean a Rotozip, yes. I have no problem with the saw itself, but
those little bits are pretty brittle. I would get HSS vs carbide if
possible. I snapped several of those little carbide bits trying to cut
outlet holes in OSB when sheeting my shop.

JW

jw wrote:
If you mean a Rotozip, yes. I have no problem with the saw itself,
but
those little bits are pretty brittle. I would get HSS vs carbide if
possible. I snapped several of those little carbide bits trying to
cut
outlet holes in OSB when sheeting my shop.

JW


JW, I have to disagree. I have the Milwakee (sp?) version of the
Rotozip, and when cutting abrasive materials like sheetrock and
particle board, you go through a HSS cutter every few feet of cut. I
was cutting around ther permiter of my kitchen ceiling to replace it,
and went through 2 HSS cutters in less than 4-ft of cut.

A single carbide cutter did the rest of the job -- in total about 60-ft
of cutting 1/2" sheetrock.

If you find yourself snapping off the carbide bits, the problem is not
the bits but the fact that you don't know how to use your Zip saw. You
have to keep the guide of the Rotozip flush with the surface you are
cutting at all times. If you do, it's practically impossible to break
carbide cutting tools unless you try to push the tool faster than it
can cut.

My opinion is that HSS cutters on Zip saws are all but worthless.
Carbide is the only way to go.

Harry C.

1/4 " laminate trimmer works too. You can buy spiral bits that fit or some
come with collets to accept 1/8" bits as well.

wrote in message
oups.com...

jw wrote:
If you mean a Rotozip, yes. I have no problem with the saw itself,
but
those little bits are pretty brittle. I would get HSS vs carbide if
possible. I snapped several of those little carbide bits trying to
cut
outlet holes in OSB when sheeting my shop.

JW


JW, I have to disagree. I have the Milwakee (sp?) version of the
Rotozip, and when cutting abrasive materials like sheetrock and
particle board, you go through a HSS cutter every few feet of cut. I
was cutting around ther permiter of my kitchen ceiling to replace it,
and went through 2 HSS cutters in less than 4-ft of cut.

A single carbide cutter did the rest of the job -- in total about 60-ft
of cutting 1/2" sheetrock.

If you find yourself snapping off the carbide bits, the problem is not
the bits but the fact that you don't know how to use your Zip saw. You
have to keep the guide of the Rotozip flush with the surface you are
cutting at all times. If you do, it's practically impossible to break
carbide cutting tools unless you try to push the tool faster than it
can cut.

My opinion is that HSS cutters on Zip saws are all but worthless.
Carbide is the only way to go.

Harry C.

Could be.

It was tough to hold onto it and keep it perfectly flat. If it
lifted(or torqued) even a little bit, snap. I was cutting through 1/2"
OSB. On drywall, you are right. I cut nearly all day with a single
bit and had no problems. Drywall will mush around a little bit, but
there is no give in OSB(comparitively).

Just my experience. FWIW.

JW

One of the best tricks I have seen for dry wall was from a contractor
friend -- take one of those Milwaukee Sawzall's and take a regular
old blade for it. Break the blade off so that when it is all the way
forward, it just sticks out past the shoe the thickness of the drywall.
Sharpen the end of the blade and have at it -- it will punch through the
drywall but does not go past it so there is no danger of cutting what
ever else is ALWAYS behind a wall where ever you are sawing
(wires, pipes etc.). Really works slick.

mikey

wrote in message
oups.com...

jw wrote:
If you mean a Rotozip, yes. I have no problem with the saw itself,
but
those little bits are pretty brittle. I would get HSS vs carbide if
possible. I snapped several of those little carbide bits trying to
cut
outlet holes in OSB when sheeting my shop.

JW


JW, I have to disagree. I have the Milwakee (sp?) version of the
Rotozip, and when cutting abrasive materials like sheetrock and
particle board, you go through a HSS cutter every few feet of cut. I
was cutting around ther permiter of my kitchen ceiling to replace it,
and went through 2 HSS cutters in less than 4-ft of cut.

A single carbide cutter did the rest of the job -- in total about 60-ft
of cutting 1/2" sheetrock.

If you find yourself snapping off the carbide bits, the problem is not
the bits but the fact that you don't know how to use your Zip saw. You
have to keep the guide of the Rotozip flush with the surface you are
cutting at all times. If you do, it's practically impossible to break
carbide cutting tools unless you try to push the tool faster than it
can cut.

My opinion is that HSS cutters on Zip saws are all but worthless.
Carbide is the only way to go.

Harry C.

"Don Gowan" wrote in message
...
1/4 " laminate trimmer works too. You can buy spiral bits that fit or
some come with collets to accept 1/8" bits as well.

That's what the original drywall trimmers were. Lots of noise and dust.
Extreme pressure and a utility knife is usually my choice.



wrote in message
oups.com...

jw wrote:
If you mean a Rotozip, yes. I have no problem with the saw itself,
but
those little bits are pretty brittle. I would get HSS vs carbide if
possible. I snapped several of those little carbide bits trying to
cut
outlet holes in OSB when sheeting my shop.

JW


JW, I have to disagree. I have the Milwakee (sp?) version of the
Rotozip, and when cutting abrasive materials like sheetrock and
particle board, you go through a HSS cutter every few feet of cut. I
was cutting around ther permiter of my kitchen ceiling to replace it,
and went through 2 HSS cutters in less than 4-ft of cut.

A single carbide cutter did the rest of the job -- in total about 60-ft
of cutting 1/2" sheetrock.

If you find yourself snapping off the carbide bits, the problem is not
the bits but the fact that you don't know how to use your Zip saw. You
have to keep the guide of the Rotozip flush with the surface you are
cutting at all times. If you do, it's practically impossible to break
carbide cutting tools unless you try to push the tool faster than it
can cut.

My opinion is that HSS cutters on Zip saws are all but worthless.
Carbide is the only way to go.

Harry C.

Cool trick. I'm going to do that next time I have to cut into a wall. I just
had to cut through a waterlogged wall with 4 pex waterlines, a 220, a couple
110's and a vent pipe. I would have been much more relaxed opening the wall.
Thanks
Karl


"Mike Fields" wrote in message
...
One of the best tricks I have seen for dry wall was from a contractor
friend -- take one of those Milwaukee Sawzall's and take a regular
old blade for it. Break the blade off so that when it is all the way
forward, it just sticks out past the shoe the thickness of the drywall.
Sharpen the end of the blade and have at it -- it will punch through the
drywall but does not go past it so there is no danger of cutting what
ever else is ALWAYS behind a wall where ever you are sawing
(wires, pipes etc.). Really works slick.

mikey

wrote in message
oups.com...

jw wrote:
If you mean a Rotozip, yes. I have no problem with the saw itself,
but
those little bits are pretty brittle. I would get HSS vs carbide if
possible. I snapped several of those little carbide bits trying to
cut
outlet holes in OSB when sheeting my shop.

JW


JW, I have to disagree. I have the Milwakee (sp?) version of the
Rotozip, and when cutting abrasive materials like sheetrock and
particle board, you go through a HSS cutter every few feet of cut. I
was cutting around ther permiter of my kitchen ceiling to replace it,
and went through 2 HSS cutters in less than 4-ft of cut.

A single carbide cutter did the rest of the job -- in total about 60-ft
of cutting 1/2" sheetrock.

If you find yourself snapping off the carbide bits, the problem is not
the bits but the fact that you don't know how to use your Zip saw. You
have to keep the guide of the Rotozip flush with the surface you are
cutting at all times. If you do, it's practically impossible to break
carbide cutting tools unless you try to push the tool faster than it
can cut.

My opinion is that HSS cutters on Zip saws are all but worthless.
Carbide is the only way to go.

Harry C.

Thanks for the good tip. sic, I'll use it the next time I'm cutting
around electrical wiring. ZAAAAPPP.
Bugs

"jtaylor" wrote in
:

The pipes behind the kitchen cabinets at the cottage froze and split
and rather than take out the cabinets I think I'll saw through the
back panel behind the drawers etcetera and get at the pipes thataway.
A circular saw is kind of a big and possibly troublesome thing in that
small space. If you have one of those newfangled saws that look like
a dremel on steroids, do'you think that would be what I should use?
Cabinet back is 3/4" birch ply (and there's drywall behind, but that's
easy).



A better way: Dremel now has a reciprocating saw attachment for their
"400-series" Moto Tool that uses standard jigsaw blades.

Small enough diameter [smaller than the Rotozip/Advantage tools] to work
with easily in confined spaces and provides a short-but-adequate depth of
cut.

Since it uses standard jigsaw blades, it can double as a hacksaw to cut
out the pipe sections.