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What should a new 240v circuit cost?
I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an
electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? |
Get 3 quotes and then decide what's reasonable.
Usually you get what you pay for. You don't describe what you are getting. one 240V 10A switch 2 feet from the mains = you are getting screwed 240V 200A service full of breakers, 100' run of cable to the pole and a new meter = sounds reasonable "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? |
In article , Greg Deputy says...
I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? Around here the labor cost would be about 100 per hour. That means (aside from the materials cost which would be probably 25 dollars or so) they should be working full time for ten hours at this. Seems like a pretty long time to install one branch circuit. Is there some other issue for the installation that would drive up the price? What have the other folks who've come in to bid estimated? Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
Just FYI...
I had a 240 circuit put in my garage. The garage is 60 feet from the panel which is inside the house. The electrician came through the wall of the house, ran conduit to the garage (not a straight shot - it followed the edge of a deck), ran conduit in the garage to two plugs, and wired the whole thing. It cost about $1200. I live in San Francisco where I suspect the rates are as high as anywhere. Peter "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? |
Greg Deputy wrote: I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? You don't give a lot of details, but if we assume you're talking about something like a welder outlet right next to the main panel in an exposed location in a garage and there are no "problems" such as a full or obsolete panel: 1 50A 2 pole circuit breaker $10-20 depending on brand 1 50A receptacle $20-$40 depending on type 1 box to mount receptacle in $5 1 offset nipple to connect box to panel $5 12' of 6 ga THHN wire $10 Figure 1 hour of labor for a simple installation. So I'd say up to about $200 is reasonable, much more than that would be suspect in my opinion. As mentioned earlier that is based on an uncomplicated installation, a full or obsolete panel could well require a lot of extra work and justify a higher cost. I'm not a licensed electrician, but I've done plenty of my own work so I have a good idea of time and materials. For a price comparison, a friend of mine recently upgraded the service in his house from 60A fuses to a 100A breaker panel and a new meter socket. As the homeowner he can do his own work and pull permits, etc. While he had added a circuit here and there in the past he was a little leery of tackling a project this size. As the more experienced electrician I gave him the "service upgrade 101" class. The project probably took him about 10-12 hours of work total. The materials cost was about $300. The inspector *loved* the work and commented that it was a neater job than many done by commercial electricians he's inspected. Pete C. |
Greg Deputy wrote:
I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? I am not an electrician. First specify how many amps. The price will be somewhat dependant on this. I installed a 50 ampere subpanel with a 6 gauge feeder in my garage. The run to the main breaker panel was about 60 feet. The total materials cost, including the new breaker in the main panel and a couple breakers in the subpanel was about $200. The permit and inspection by the city was about $50. I don't think $1000 is too far out of line. The job will take some time and electricians aren't cheap. |
Thanks for all the responses!
To add some details, i'm looking to add a 60A circuit in my garage, right next to the circuitbox. Nothing in the way, no problems, plenty of room in the breaker box for the additonal breakers. The guy who came to give an 'estimate' just had a book, and his book said $700 for a new 40A 240v branch circuit, $950 for a 50A. If I wanted him to run conduit and wire to the other side of the garage where a lathe is going, it would be more. Even funnier, the guy said his company was expensive, and he'd be happy to come in on the weekend and do it for half the price on his own time.... "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? |
In article , Ignoramus24456 says...
Some pix of it can be seen he http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt.../02_Installed/ Nice installation. *ahem* The 120 volt receptactles are installed upside down - the ground connection goes on top, the way the 240 volt ones were done. Just a nit pick! Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
Yeah, the next electrician said he'd do the outlet right next to the panel
for $100. Meithinks the first guy is trying to rip me off.... I'm probably going to have him run it to the other side of the garage, wouldnt i have to get it inspected or something to make sure its up to code if I did it? "Ignoramus24456" wrote in message ... On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 13:04:54 -0800, Greg Deputy wrote: Thanks for all the responses! To add some details, i'm looking to add a 60A circuit in my garage, right next to the circuitbox. Do you mean right next to your main electrical panel? Nothing in the way, no problems, plenty of room in the breaker box for the additonal breakers. The guy who came to give an 'estimate' just had a book, and his book said $700 for a new 40A 240v branch circuit, $950 for a 50A. If I wanted him to run conduit and wire to the other side of the garage where a lathe is going, it would be more. Even funnier, the guy said his company was expensive, and he'd be happy to come in on the weekend and do it for half the price on his own time.... If you are going to run a single short circuit all within the garage, any $$amount is too expensive. This is a perfect beginner level project for you to do. ask questions in alt.home.repair, get a permit if you like, and go ahead. i "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? -- |
jim rozen wrote: In article , Ignoramus24456 says... Some pix of it can be seen he http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt.../02_Installed/ Nice installation. *ahem* The 120 volt receptactles are installed upside down - the ground connection goes on top, the way the 240 volt ones were done. Just a nit pick! Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== I've seen a lot of debate about that with various reasonings. The ground pin up so anything metal falling on it hits ground and not hot argument would seem to cover a pretty low probability event. The ground pin up so that gravity will tend to push the hot and neutral in instead of pulling them out seems to be a cover for low quality outlets and many connections have cords pulled in directions other than that of gravity. Either way, you will find that a substantial percentage of wall warts are clearly designed for ground down mounting, even ones without a ground pin. The last time I looked through the NEC book I don't recall reading anything about receptacle orientation. Granted that was the 2002 edition and I wasn't specifically looking for such a thing. I'm not sure where my code book is at the moment. Personally I don't think it really makes much difference which way they are mounted, particularly when you consider the case of horizontally mounted outlets. In that case should the ground be on the left or the right??? Pete C. |
Greg Deputy wrote: Yeah, the next electrician said he'd do the outlet right next to the panel for $100. Meithinks the first guy is trying to rip me off.... I'm probably going to have him run it to the other side of the garage, wouldnt i have to get it inspected or something to make sure its up to code if I did it? "Ignoramus24456" wrote in message ... On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 13:04:54 -0800, Greg Deputy wrote: Thanks for all the responses! To add some details, i'm looking to add a 60A circuit in my garage, right next to the circuitbox. Do you mean right next to your main electrical panel? Nothing in the way, no problems, plenty of room in the breaker box for the additonal breakers. The guy who came to give an 'estimate' just had a book, and his book said $700 for a new 40A 240v branch circuit, $950 for a 50A. If I wanted him to run conduit and wire to the other side of the garage where a lathe is going, it would be more. Even funnier, the guy said his company was expensive, and he'd be happy to come in on the weekend and do it for half the price on his own time.... If you are going to run a single short circuit all within the garage, any $$amount is too expensive. This is a perfect beginner level project for you to do. ask questions in alt.home.repair, get a permit if you like, and go ahead. i "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? -- It may vary by location, but usually the homeowner can do their own work, but they need to pull a permit and have it inspected just like any other job. Pete C. |
That seems ridiculously expensive from the description you have given.
Point of reference, I had a whole new 3 phase service install from the pole to my shop for $1600. I am a more than competent "sparky", but playing with "hot" transformers is not something that I am willing to do. I farmed this one out. Otherwise, I have done all of my wiring at home/shop. As close to NEC as practical. JW |
In article ,
"Pete C." wrote: Personally I don't think it really makes much difference which way they are mounted, particularly when you consider the case of horizontally mounted outlets. In that case should the ground be on the left or the right??? Left, so that the uppermost blade is the neutral blade, not the hot blade. -- Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by |
jim rozen wrote:
In article , Ignoramus24456 says... Some pix of it can be seen he http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Curt.../02_Installed/ Nice installation. *ahem* The 120 volt receptactles are installed upside down - the ground connection goes on top, the way the 240 volt ones were done. Just a nit pick! Jim A long long time ago when my Parent's shop was inspected by OSHA we got dinged (but not cited) for having outlets with the ground pin up, the reasoning being that with the pin down the last thing that'll go will be the safety ground. Since then I've always installed them with ground pin down, and IIRC most power strips have them down when the writing is correct. Of course the inspectors seemed to be much more heavily schooled in the idea that if you have employees you're automatically evil than they were in electrical theory, but still... -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com |
Greg Deputy wrote:
Yeah, the next electrician said he'd do the outlet right next to the panel for $100. Meithinks the first guy is trying to rip me off.... I'm probably going to have him run it to the other side of the garage, wouldnt i have to get it inspected or something to make sure its up to code if I did it? "Ignoramus24456" wrote in message ... On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 13:04:54 -0800, Greg Deputy wrote: Thanks for all the responses! To add some details, i'm looking to add a 60A circuit in my garage, right next to the circuitbox. Do you mean right next to your main electrical panel? Nothing in the way, no problems, plenty of room in the breaker box for the additonal breakers. The guy who came to give an 'estimate' just had a book, and his book said $700 for a new 40A 240v branch circuit, $950 for a 50A. If I wanted him to run conduit and wire to the other side of the garage where a lathe is going, it would be more. Even funnier, the guy said his company was expensive, and he'd be happy to come in on the weekend and do it for half the price on his own time.... If you are going to run a single short circuit all within the garage, any $$amount is too expensive. This is a perfect beginner level project for you to do. ask questions in alt.home.repair, get a permit if you like, and go ahead. i "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? It'll vary from state to state but here in Oregon anything that's not a repair should be inspected. Of course if you own the place nobody will know if you do the work yourself, but that can cause trouble down the road if you have a fire -- even if it's from a gasoline tanker running into your house and bursting into flames the insurance company will try to pin it on uninspected work. From what I hear the inspectors are generally on your side as a homeowner if you're reasonable, but that will vary from inspector to inspector, and as a function of the quality of your work. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com |
In article , Pete C. wrote:
[ ... ] You don't give a lot of details, but if we assume you're talking about something like a welder outlet right next to the main panel in an exposed location in a garage and there are no "problems" such as a full or obsolete panel: Pete, Could you please change the format of your munged address? The format which you used: generates problems (the inner set of '' and '' cause the problems when I try to save a copy of what you posted. Since I run my own news server, I could go in and edit the offending string so I could save it, but most don't have the privilege -- or the knowledge -- to do this, and can be stuck unable to save an article. One modification which I have tested, and which at least works on my system is: (Substituting "{}" for "", which at least has no problems on my system.) I wish that spammers would go away, so nobody would feel the need to do this. Thanks, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
"DoN. Nichols" wrote: In article , Pete C. wrote: [ ... ] You don't give a lot of details, but if we assume you're talking about something like a welder outlet right next to the main panel in an exposed location in a garage and there are no "problems" such as a full or obsolete panel: Pete, Could you please change the format of your munged address? The format which you used: generates problems (the inner set of '' and '' cause the problems when I try to save a copy of what you posted. Since I run my own news server, I could go in and edit the offending string so I could save it, but most don't have the privilege -- or the knowledge -- to do this, and can be stuck unable to save an article. One modification which I have tested, and which at least works on my system is: (Substituting "{}" for "", which at least has no problems on my system.) I wish that spammers would go away, so nobody would feel the need to do this. Thanks, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- De-munged, or at least differently munged. I used the . since that should be legal for any system. Until recently I had a fully bogus address there since I didn't intend for anyone to respond "off-line". Pete C. |
Ecnerwal wrote: In article , "Pete C." wrote: Personally I don't think it really makes much difference which way they are mounted, particularly when you consider the case of horizontally mounted outlets. In that case should the ground be on the left or the right??? Left, so that the uppermost blade is the neutral blade, not the hot blade. -- Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by Makes some sense, but if I were an inspector I'd be much happier to see people installing spec grade receptacles diagonally than to see residential grade installed at all, ground up or down. The quality of the residential grade receptacles goes from "iffy" from the major brands to "downright scary" for lesser brands. Pete C. |
In article , Tim Wescott says...
A long long time ago when my Parent's shop was inspected by OSHA we got dinged (but not cited) for having outlets with the ground pin up, the reasoning being that with the pin down the last thing that'll go will be the safety ground. Look closely at the a hubbell receptacle. The name appears rightside up when the ground pin is on the top. That's what hubbell thinks on the subject, anyway. g I understand the reason for the ground pin being on top has to do with the idea that any foreign object which falls down on the plug will encounter the ground pin rather than a hot lead - if the plug were partly loose. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
I'd be just as weary of the $100 as the $1000 guy.
Are you adding a new panel or just a plug? $100 might just about cover the materials cost for wire, breakers and a small box. If you are planning on running more equipment you mind as well go 100A or better. Mind as well go 200A now that the wife has seen the $1000 quote. Just think - you are running a welder or a plasma cutter, the air compressor kicks in and your 60A breaker trips...doh! "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... Yeah, the next electrician said he'd do the outlet right next to the panel for $100. Meithinks the first guy is trying to rip me off.... I'm probably going to have him run it to the other side of the garage, wouldnt i have to get it inspected or something to make sure its up to code if I did it? "Ignoramus24456" wrote in message ... On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 13:04:54 -0800, Greg Deputy wrote: Thanks for all the responses! To add some details, i'm looking to add a 60A circuit in my garage, right next to the circuitbox. Do you mean right next to your main electrical panel? Nothing in the way, no problems, plenty of room in the breaker box for the additonal breakers. The guy who came to give an 'estimate' just had a book, and his book said $700 for a new 40A 240v branch circuit, $950 for a 50A. If I wanted him to run conduit and wire to the other side of the garage where a lathe is going, it would be more. Even funnier, the guy said his company was expensive, and he'd be happy to come in on the weekend and do it for half the price on his own time.... If you are going to run a single short circuit all within the garage, any $$amount is too expensive. This is a perfect beginner level project for you to do. ask questions in alt.home.repair, get a permit if you like, and go ahead. i "Greg Deputy" wrote in message ... I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? -- |
In article , Pete C." "aux3 says...
The ground pin up so anything metal falling on it hits ground and not hot argument would seem to cover a pretty low probability event. Sure. But I like having belt + suspenders in operation there. The ground pin up so that gravity will tend to push the hot and neutral in instead of pulling them out seems to be a cover for low quality outlets and many connections have cords pulled in directions other than that of gravity. It's not at all clear to me that either orientation will tend to keep any particular conductor socked home any better. I think I'll go by hubbell's recommendations. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
In article , Ignoramus24456 says...
...Ground up is said to be better if something metallic falls on a not fully inserted plug, that's a fair thought, but how likely is that to happen? I've seen it happen. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
In article , Pete C. wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote: In article , Pete C. wrote: [ ... ] Pete, Could you please change the format of your munged address? The format which you used: generates problems [ ... ] De-munged, or at least differently munged. I used the . since that should be legal for any system. Until recently I had a fully bogus address there since I didn't intend for anyone to respond "off-line". Thank you. I don't mind people replying off-line -- as long as they don't do both off-line and on-line without telling me so. Thanks again, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
In article ,
jim rozen wrote: In article , Tim Wescott says... A long long time ago when my Parent's shop was inspected by OSHA we got dinged (but not cited) for having outlets with the ground pin up, the reasoning being that with the pin down the last thing that'll go will be the safety ground. Look closely at the a hubbell receptacle. The name appears rightside up when the ground pin is on the top. That's what hubbell thinks on the subject, anyway. g O.K. I've seen some which had the label rightside up when the ground pin was down. I understand the reason for the ground pin being on top has to do with the idea that any foreign object which falls down on the plug will encounter the ground pin rather than a hot lead - if the plug were partly loose. That makes a certain amount of sense. However, with the ground pin down, the typical moulded connector is a more natural fit into the hand, thus discouraging attempting to remove it by yanking on the cord. Anybody have an orientation for the twist-loc connectors? :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
"jim rozen" wrote in message ... In article , Ignoramus24456 says... ...Ground up is said to be better if something metallic falls on a not fully inserted plug, that's a fair thought, but how likely is that to happen? I've seen it happen. Jim When I was about 12 I was reaching down behind the sofa to plug in a vacuum cleaner and my finger slipped across the contacts. Got an interesting lesson in electricity. Steve. |
On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 11:49:59 -0800, "Greg Deputy"
wrote: I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. You must have done everything wrong to get a quote that high - * Called a Union company that's going to send 3 people out to do the work of one man. * Have a power panel that takes oddball obsolete breakers, or your panel is stuffed full requiring new twin breakers to make room, or installing a sub-panel and re-routing the power to other devices. (And in that case, I'd say rather than fight with an antique or undersized service, swap the whole main service out. Kick it up from 70A/100A/125A to 200A, or from 200A to 400A. That'll be expensive to do, but you pay once and you're done with it for another 30+ years.) * And the city/county permit filing fees, including an hour for a Licensed Engineer to create certified drawings and a panel schedule, an hour for someone to run to the Building & Safety office to file the permit, and an hour or two (or four...) of the Electrician's time to sit around waiting for the inspector to arrive - the final inspection itself taking 5 minutes... Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? If the panel is in good shape and has a space available, and you are going right below the panel (or right behind it for panels mounted on the outside of the garage wall) with your welder receptacle, my guesstimate would be $250 to $300. And if the planets are all aligned (and it's drop dead easy) $175-ish. No permit for small stuff like that unless the locality is ultra-picky (which all of ours aren't) - it's either done right or it isn't done, you don't need the city to tell you... -- Bruce -- -- Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. |
On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 11:49:59 -0800, the inscrutable "Greg Deputy"
spake: I'm needing to get a new 240v circuit installed in my garage. I had an electrician come out, and they wanted $1000 to do it. Not including any sort of wire runs, but to just put in a branch circuit with an outlet right next to the breaker box in the garage. That seems kinda steep. Any electricians out there want to tell me what I should expect to pay? When I moved here 3 years ago, it took me about 4 hours to remove the wallboard behind the service panel, go up in the attic, run 3 new 240v lines, mount them to boxes and outlets, and put covers on them. (I should remove that wallboard and staple those wires, then run emt conduit to the 2 exposed outlets to make it code-legal.) Parts: 250' of 12/2 grounded Romex - $17.95 on sale (I used about half) 3 ea. L6-20R twist-lock outlets @ 6.95 each - $20.85 3 ea. L6-20P twist-lock plugs @ 8.95 each - $26.85 3 ea. metal outlet boxes @ $0.28 each - $0.84 1 ea. 4x8x7/16" chipboard @ 6.95 - $6.95 Labor: 4 hours @ $65/hr $260 SubTotals: $73.44 in parts and $260 labor Grand total if I paid myself: $333.44 I would feel that an electrician was ripping me off if he charged over $500 for the job. (Double the parts prices and higher labor.) Get some more quotes or find someone to do the final hookup for cheaper and do the main work yourself. Except for crawling around the rafters, the work is not hard. -- Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud. ---- http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development |
On 2 Mar 2005 22:53:37 GMT, Ignoramus24456
wrote: On 2 Mar 2005 14:33:48 -0800, jim rozen wrote: In article , Tim Wescott says... A long long time ago when my Parent's shop was inspected by OSHA we got dinged (but not cited) for having outlets with the ground pin up, the reasoning being that with the pin down the last thing that'll go will be the safety ground. Look closely at the a hubbell receptacle. The name appears rightside up when the ground pin is on the top. That's what hubbell thinks on the subject, anyway. g I understand the reason for the ground pin being on top has to do with the idea that any foreign object which falls down on the plug will encounter the ground pin rather than a hot lead - if the plug were partly loose. Hubbell receptacles are also good enough so that a plug that is inserted, stays inserted. :) i Sometimes, .no matter how hard you pull. Gunner Lathe Dementia. Recognized as one of the major sub-strains of the all-consuming virus, Packratitis. Usual symptoms easily recognized and normally is contracted for life. Can be very contagious. michael |
On 2 Mar 2005 15:19:22 -0800, jim rozen
wrote: In article , Ignoramus24456 says... ...Ground up is said to be better if something metallic falls on a not fully inserted plug, that's a fair thought, but how likely is that to happen? I've seen it happen. Jim a 4' steel ruler in my shop comes to mind. Scared the hell out me. Gunner Lathe Dementia. Recognized as one of the major sub-strains of the all-consuming virus, Packratitis. Usual symptoms easily recognized and normally is contracted for life. Can be very contagious. michael |
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"Ignoramus24456" wrote in message ... On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 17:34:48 -0500, Lucky Strike wrote: I'd be just as weary of the $100 as the $1000 guy. Are you adding a new panel or just a plug? $100 might just about cover the materials cost for wire, breakers and a small box. A subpanel costs $19.99 at home despot. Breakers are about $8 each. wire is 39 cents per foot. A outlet box costs $1. Can't see it getting to $100 without a long cable run, which the OP indicated is not in his plans. How many times have you gone into a buddies house and they start bitching that they ran out of panel space for their new saw...? Or that they are tripping over extension cords... What does $20 get you? Space for 4 breakers? $20 box $32 breakers $39 for 100' cable ------------------------ $91 + taxes Pretty close to $100. Oh yah, how are you going to strap the cable to the walls? Maybe run BX instead? Or do you go to the Borg 6 times because you keep forgetting things and short ordering cable? If you are planning on running more equipment you mind as well go 100A or better. Mind as well go 200A now that the wife has seen the $1000 quote. 200A may require extensive modification of the service entrance. Go big or go home.... Just think - you are running a welder or a plasma cutter, the air compressor kicks in and your 60A breaker trips...doh! That's why compressors have disconnects on them . :) i It sucks when you are half way through a cut on the plasma when it kicks out for low air. Oh well, fire up the a/c for 5 minutes then get back to her later... ;-) |
it still sparks from hot to ground too
"Gunner" wrote in message ... On 2 Mar 2005 15:19:22 -0800, jim rozen wrote: In article , Ignoramus24456 says... ...Ground up is said to be better if something metallic falls on a not fully inserted plug, that's a fair thought, but how likely is that to happen? I've seen it happen. Jim a 4' steel ruler in my shop comes to mind. Scared the hell out me. Gunner Lathe Dementia. Recognized as one of the major sub-strains of the all-consuming virus, Packratitis. Usual symptoms easily recognized and normally is contracted for life. Can be very contagious. michael |
In article , Lucky Strike says...
it still sparks from hot to ground too If it hits the ground first it's less likely to get to the hot. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
Well, the OP said that the run was very short. Figure one 10 foot conduit and a few feet of cable. Or do you go to the Borg 6 times because you keep forgetting things and short ordering cable? That, unfortunately, happens a lot. I was lucky with the cable length for my subpanel project, I ordered 80 feet on nothing more than a hunch, and ended up using about 75 feet out that 80. As far as forgetting stuff, Imust confess, it happens too much. Me too. That's why I keep a roll of 12/3 BX kicking around! |
On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 08:25:48 -0500, Ned Simmons
wrote: In article , says... On 2 Mar 2005 15:19:22 -0800, jim rozen wrote: In article , Ignoramus24456 says... ...Ground up is said to be better if something metallic falls on a not fully inserted plug, that's a fair thought, but how likely is that to happen? I've seen it happen. Jim a 4' steel ruler in my shop comes to mind. Scared the hell out me. The blade of tape measure while taking a measurement behind the refrigerator. It shorted across the hot pin of the plug and the refrigerator's condenser resulting in an expensive hiss. Ned Simmons Owwww...! Gunner Lathe Dementia. Recognized as one of the major sub-strains of the all-consuming virus, Packratitis. Usual symptoms easily recognized and normally is contracted for life. Can be very contagious. michael |
Gunner wrote:
On 2 Mar 2005 22:53:37 GMT, Ignoramus24456 wrote: On 2 Mar 2005 14:33:48 -0800, jim rozen wrote: In article , Tim Wescott says... A long long time ago when my Parent's shop was inspected by OSHA we got dinged (but not cited) for having outlets with the ground pin up, the reasoning being that with the pin down the last thing that'll go will be the safety ground. Look closely at the a hubbell receptacle. The name appears rightside up when the ground pin is on the top. That's what hubbell thinks on the subject, anyway. g I understand the reason for the ground pin being on top has to do with the idea that any foreign object which falls down on the plug will encounter the ground pin rather than a hot lead - if the plug were partly loose. Hubbell receptacles are also good enough so that a plug that is inserted, stays inserted. :) i Sometimes, .no matter how hard you pull. Gunner Lathe Dementia. Recognized as one of the major sub-strains of the all-consuming virus, Packratitis. Usual symptoms easily recognized and normally is contracted for life. Can be very contagious. michael I used Hubbell connectors up to the 300 amp - 5 wire - 3 phase ones. I started with the 220 V 50 amp stile and worked up to the big Blue ones. :-) That was in another life. Wish I had a few big ones around now! Just have some small ones. Martin -- Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder |
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