Hello,
I want to repaint a few aluminum panels from the 60s. The panels still
have their original paint on them, but they are all scratched. They
are about 2 x 1 foot each. I have a can of new lacquer of the color I
want.
How do I prepare the surface properly, considering that the old paint
was probably applied professionaly with all sorts of wacky chemicals
that are no longer available?
I want to keep whatever base is under there so I don't expose the
aluminum, and just get that surface ready for the new paint.
Also, the look is important, they are very smooth and the the paint
looks very flat, no lumps or bumps.
The new paint is Sherwin-Williams Omni Pak lacquer. I've checked the
site for info. Can't find much, they seem to concentrate on house
paint...
I just don't know where to start. Sandpaper clogs, machine tools are
too aggressive, steel wool, rotary brushes, materials, etc .... it's
tough.

"Stuff" wrote in message
om...
Hello,
I want to repaint a few aluminum panels from the 60s. The panels still
have their original paint on them, but they are all scratched. They
are about 2 x 1 foot each. I have a can of new lacquer of the color I
want.
How do I prepare the surface properly, considering that the old paint
was probably applied professionaly with all sorts of wacky chemicals
that are no longer available?
I want to keep whatever base is under there so I don't expose the
aluminum, and just get that surface ready for the new paint.
Also, the look is important, they are very smooth and the the paint
looks very flat, no lumps or bumps.
The new paint is Sherwin-Williams Omni Pak lacquer. I've checked the
site for info. Can't find much, they seem to concentrate on house
paint...
I just don't know where to start. Sandpaper clogs, machine tools are
too aggressive, steel wool, rotary brushes, materials, etc .... it's
tough.

Use stripper to remover the old paint and start fresh, that way the old
stuff won't haunt you. If the original paint is enamel and not lacquer it
will lift with an application of lacquer. There are one stage urethane
paints that are much more durable than lacquer although much nastier in
chemical composition. Check with your paint supplier to find out their
recomended system for refinishing aluminum.
Steve

Paint remover or perhaps lacquer thinner, but it'll damage your brain
if you breathe too much of it. Or catch fire... Use the remover...

Then, there's Aluminum primer with Zinc Chromate which will allow
lacquer to stick. you can get it in spray cans. Is there a Mohawk
outlet in your area? One of the industrial suppliers? Home Depot?

I find that for some surfaces, a hairdryer or heat gun helps me get
a uniform finish that is neither saggy nor orangepeel, and has very
few embedded bits of lint / dust... / mark


Stuff wrote:

Hello,
I want to repaint a few aluminum panels from the 60s. The panels still
have their original paint on them, but they are all scratched. They
are about 2 x 1 foot each. I have a can of new lacquer of the color I
want.
How do I prepare the surface properly, considering that the old paint
was probably applied professionaly with all sorts of wacky chemicals
that are no longer available?
I want to keep whatever base is under there so I don't expose the
aluminum, and just get that surface ready for the new paint.
Also, the look is important, they are very smooth and the the paint
looks very flat, no lumps or bumps.
The new paint is Sherwin-Williams Omni Pak lacquer. I've checked the
site for info. Can't find much, they seem to concentrate on house
paint...
I just don't know where to start. Sandpaper clogs, machine tools are
too aggressive, steel wool, rotary brushes, materials, etc .... it's
tough.

On 12 Feb 2005 08:27:16 -0800, (Stuff)
wrote:

Hello,
I want to repaint a few aluminum panels from the 60s. The panels still
have their original paint on them, but they are all scratched. They
are about 2 x 1 foot each. I have a can of new lacquer of the color I
want.
How do I prepare the surface properly, considering that the old paint
was probably applied professionaly with all sorts of wacky chemicals
that are no longer available?
I want to keep whatever base is under there so I don't expose the
aluminum, and just get that surface ready for the new paint.
Also, the look is important, they are very smooth and the the paint
looks very flat, no lumps or bumps.

If you don't want to expose the aluminum, removal of old paint isn't
on. Shoot it with a sandable automotive primer, wetsand with 400
grit wet-or-dry and a block to get a glass-smooth surface. The primer
will fill in the scratches and you'll remove the overburden when
sanding. It goes pretty fast; it only takes about an hour to
wetsand an entire car. If the scratches are deep, you may need to
glaze the divots with nitro putty and wetsand level.

It's hard to get lacquer to completely level, even on a well-prepared
surface. There'll always be a bit of orangepeel. That's why lacquer
finishes are usually rubbed out.