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Whats would be the easiest way to attach a generator head to an automotive motor.
I'm toying with the idea of buying a 25 kw ST generator head and an
old ford escort for the motor and misc running hardware. I'm trying to think of how I would couple the gen head to the motor flywheel. I'm thinking of getting a stick shift car and leaving the clutch and pressure plate installed then robbing the jack shaft from the transmission. Problem is that I think the generator head alignment would have to be so accurate as to make it unfeasible for me to do at home. Another idea I'm thinking about is having a plate machined that would bolt to the flywheel and have a 1.5 inch shaft coming off of it that I could couple to the generator head with a heavy duty rubber insert type coupler. (I'm concerned that this setup would be hard for me to balance, and the stresses on the shaft welded to the plate be to high) Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? thanks |
On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:21:25 GMT, Modat22 wrote:
I'm toying with the idea of buying a 25 kw ST generator head and an old ford escort for the motor and misc running hardware. How about a VW Diesel instead? More suited to power generation, better fuel to have around in quantity. I'm trying to think of how I would couple the gen head to the motor flywheel. I'm thinking of getting a stick shift car and leaving the clutch and pressure plate installed then robbing the jack shaft from the transmission. Problem is that I think the generator head alignment would have to be so accurate as to make it unfeasible for me to do at home. Could you use a CV joint in the process, to make alignment less critical? Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? Maybe alt.energy.homepower would be another group to ask in. Also, google for "cogeneration" (the concept of using the engine both to turn the generator, _and_ to use the radiator as a heat device for the house). Dave Hinz |
Modat22 wrote:
I'm toying with the idea of buying a 25 kw ST generator head and an old ford escort for the motor and misc running hardware. I'm trying to think of how I would couple the gen head to the motor flywheel. I'm thinking of getting a stick shift car and leaving the clutch and pressure plate installed then robbing the jack shaft from the transmission. Problem is that I think the generator head alignment would have to be so accurate as to make it unfeasible for me to do at home. Another idea I'm thinking about is having a plate machined that would bolt to the flywheel and have a 1.5 inch shaft coming off of it that I could couple to the generator head with a heavy duty rubber insert type coupler. (I'm concerned that this setup would be hard for me to balance, and the stresses on the shaft welded to the plate be to high) Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? thanks Search McMaster-Carr for couplers. Was just there. - GWE |
On 7 Feb 2005 17:24:00 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:
On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:21:25 GMT, Modat22 wrote: I'm toying with the idea of buying a 25 kw ST generator head and an old ford escort for the motor and misc running hardware. How about a VW Diesel instead? More suited to power generation, better fuel to have around in quantity. I'm trying to think of how I would couple the gen head to the motor flywheel. I'm thinking of getting a stick shift car and leaving the clutch and pressure plate installed then robbing the jack shaft from the transmission. Problem is that I think the generator head alignment would have to be so accurate as to make it unfeasible for me to do at home. Could you use a CV joint in the process, to make alignment less critical? Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? Maybe alt.energy.homepower would be another group to ask in. Also, google for "cogeneration" (the concept of using the engine both to turn the generator, _and_ to use the radiator as a heat device for the house). Dave Hinz Found an answer, seems many folks machine a flywheel plate with a 2inch shaft on it, then use a heavy duty lovejoy shaft coupler. Would love a diesel engine but I found a wreck with a rebuilt 4 banger in it for a good price. Thanks guys |
Modat22 wrote:
On 7 Feb 2005 17:24:00 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote: On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:21:25 GMT, Modat22 wrote: I'm toying with the idea of buying a 25 kw ST generator head and an old ford escort for the motor and misc running hardware. How about a VW Diesel instead? More suited to power generation, better fuel to have around in quantity. I'm trying to think of how I would couple the gen head to the motor flywheel. I'm thinking of getting a stick shift car and leaving the clutch and pressure plate installed then robbing the jack shaft from the transmission. Problem is that I think the generator head alignment would have to be so accurate as to make it unfeasible for me to do at home. Could you use a CV joint in the process, to make alignment less critical? Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? Maybe alt.energy.homepower would be another group to ask in. Also, google for "cogeneration" (the concept of using the engine both to turn the generator, _and_ to use the radiator as a heat device for the house). Dave Hinz Found an answer, seems many folks machine a flywheel plate with a 2inch shaft on it, then use a heavy duty lovejoy shaft coupler. Would love a diesel engine but I found a wreck with a rebuilt 4 banger in it for a good price. Thanks guys Does anybody know what the efficiency of a lovejoy coupling would be as opposed to removing the front bearing of the generator and coupling it hard as is done with commercial units? I really think getting a vw diesel is worth it if you are planning to use it much. A lightly loaded diesel uses so much less fuel (I would think about 65%) compared to a gas engine. Around here old VW diesels can be bought for about $300 Canadian. I plan to run mine on a mixture of old fry oil and diesel fuel, and use the waste heat from the rad and from the exhust to warm my shop a bit while I am in it. The money that I spend making it and the little leanto it will be housed in (about $1000) will be offset by the cost of burying a 250' line from the house to the garage. In the long run I would like to add a few batteries and an inverter so that I don't have to run the generator unless I am using something big or something three phase. stan |
Not sure about you generator head, but some have very husky bearings
and will work well belt driven. If you do that, I would look at the multiple v belts used on cars and get the pulleys from the local scrap yard. With a belt drive you can drive the generator at something other than the engine speed. Dan Modat22 wrote: Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? thanks |
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On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:29:37 -0800, Tom wrote:
Modat22 wrote: On 7 Feb 2005 13:19:09 -0800, wrote: Not sure about you generator head, but some have very husky bearings and will work well belt driven. If you do that, I would look at the multiple v belts used on cars and get the pulleys from the local scrap yard. With a belt drive you can drive the generator at something other than the engine speed. Dan The generator head I'm looking at is designed for 1800 rpm and requires a minimum 50 shaft horsepower. A car engine with a modified cruise control (use as governor) will fill that bill easily. I don't trust belts much. Your Ford escort has 50 bhp @ 1800 rpm? I bet not...3600 RPM, maybe. |
Someone's been reading my mind 8-)
How many HP in a VW diesel? Have you considered using triple V-belt and pulleys? Saves on alignment as well. "stanley baer" wrote in message ... Modat22 wrote: On 7 Feb 2005 17:24:00 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote: On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:21:25 GMT, Modat22 wrote: I'm toying with the idea of buying a 25 kw ST generator head and an old ford escort for the motor and misc running hardware. How about a VW Diesel instead? More suited to power generation, better fuel to have around in quantity. I'm trying to think of how I would couple the gen head to the motor flywheel. I'm thinking of getting a stick shift car and leaving the clutch and pressure plate installed then robbing the jack shaft from the transmission. Problem is that I think the generator head alignment would have to be so accurate as to make it unfeasible for me to do at home. Could you use a CV joint in the process, to make alignment less critical? Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? Maybe alt.energy.homepower would be another group to ask in. Also, google for "cogeneration" (the concept of using the engine both to turn the generator, _and_ to use the radiator as a heat device for the house). Dave Hinz Found an answer, seems many folks machine a flywheel plate with a 2inch shaft on it, then use a heavy duty lovejoy shaft coupler. Would love a diesel engine but I found a wreck with a rebuilt 4 banger in it for a good price. Thanks guys Does anybody know what the efficiency of a lovejoy coupling would be as opposed to removing the front bearing of the generator and coupling it hard as is done with commercial units? I really think getting a vw diesel is worth it if you are planning to use it much. A lightly loaded diesel uses so much less fuel (I would think about 65%) compared to a gas engine. Around here old VW diesels can be bought for about $300 Canadian. I plan to run mine on a mixture of old fry oil and diesel fuel, and use the waste heat from the rad and from the exhust to warm my shop a bit while I am in it. The money that I spend making it and the little leanto it will be housed in (about $1000) will be offset by the cost of burying a 250' line from the house to the garage. In the long run I would like to add a few batteries and an inverter so that I don't have to run the generator unless I am using something big or something three phase. stan |
stanley baer wrote: Does anybody know what the efficiency of a lovejoy coupling would be as opposed to removing the front bearing of the generator and coupling it hard as is done with commercial units? Efficiency? It should be so close to 100% you'd have trouble measuring it. It will probably devlop some heating as it absorbs the power stroke pulsations of the engine. But, if this heating is excessive, it will smoke the rubber part, maning you need a bigger coupling. A 25 Hp coupling designed to take IC engine punsihment is going to be pretty big! Jon |
Ignoramus26468 wrote: Have you considered using a system of pulleys? The pulley on the generator head side could be attached to a separate shaft, which would be connected to the head's shaft with a U-joint. Pulleys? For a 25 KW alternator? That could be pretty big! The alternator may not like that much side force on the shaft, either. Another idea I'm thinking about is having a plate machined that would bolt to the flywheel and have a 1.5 inch shaft coming off of it that I could couple to the generator head with a heavy duty rubber insert type coupler. (I'm concerned that this setup would be hard for me to balance, and the stresses on the shaft welded to the plate be to high) Many alternators and generators designed for IC engine drive have a "quill" inside a hollow shaft. This is essentially a torsion spring that allows the engine to vary in speed due to the power strokes without massive torque pulses between the engine and alternator. If this alternator is so equipped, the quill also serves as a coupling, and will take quite a bit of misalignment. They often have a rubber damper (looks like a tiny clutch) to absorb any resonance in the quill. This would work if you can run the motor continuously at the desired RPM, is it 3,600 or 1,800 for those ST heads? Yeah, if its a 3600 RPM alternator. you REALLY don't want to have the car engine wailing away at 3600 RPM all the time. Jon |
Modat22 wrote: On 7 Feb 2005 13:19:09 -0800, wrote: Not sure about you generator head, but some have very husky bearings and will work well belt driven. If you do that, I would look at the multiple v belts used on cars and get the pulleys from the local scrap yard. With a belt drive you can drive the generator at something other than the engine speed. Dan The generator head I'm looking at is designed for 1800 rpm and requires a minimum 50 shaft horsepower. A car engine with a modified cruise control (use as governor) will fill that bill easily. I don't trust belts much. Good thinking! 50 shaft HP? I guess maybe that is to deal with the problem of small, air cooled engines being rated on their peak HP. They will melt down if run at rated HP for more than 5 minutes or so. 25 KW should actually absorb 33.5 Hp plus the losses in the alternator. 37 Hp should do it, but of course the engine has to be happy putting out 37 REAL shaft HP continuously. Now that I think about it, the Escort engine may not be happy under your full load. Some highway cruise power numbers I've seen indicate small passenger cars can cruise on 12 - 15 Hp. Of course, there's extra for air cond, power steering, electrical loads, radiator fan, transmission losses (a big one), etc. But, 37 Hp may be equivalent to driving that poor Escort at 100 MPH! Maybe without the accessories and transaxle it may be able to do it, too. Do you really need the full 25 KW? Jon |
Belts can be reliable. The ones that your escort engine uses last a
long time. Maybe not as long as a lovejoy coupling, but still a long time. But you probably can not use a lovejoy coupling as your engine is unlikely to produce 50 hp at 1800 rpm. You may have to run the engine at 2400 rpm to get 50 hp. Dan Modat22 wrote: The generator head I'm looking at is designed for 1800 rpm and requires a minimum 50 shaft horsepower. A car engine with a modified cruise control (use as governor) will fill that bill easily. I don't trust belts much. |
"Modat22" wrote in message ... Dan The generator head I'm looking at is designed for 1800 rpm and requires a minimum 50 shaft horsepower. A car engine with a modified cruise control (use as governor) will fill that bill easily. I don't trust belts much. I would bet money that your Ford Escort will not provide 50 HP @ 1800 RPM, you will need to run the engine faster. Those small cubic inch four bangers usually produced their HP at pretty high RPM's, 3600 RPM may get you there, 2/1 ratio with belts. What size engine is that Escort engine? For example Generac runs a 1.5 liter in their 25 KW standby generators. They run them at 3600 to get enough HP to spin them. That same engine is run at 1800 RPM on a 15 KW generator. They do make a 25 KW that runs a 2.5 liter I-4 that runs 1800 RPM. On their 30 KW that runs at 1800 RPM the run a 3.0 liter V-6. On their 40 KW that runs at 1800 RPM they run a 3.9 liter V-6 You may be able to run at 2400 RPM with a 1.33 ratio. If all else fails you can run it at 1800 RPM, but it probably will stall the engine if you try to load the generator 100%. You may be can load it to 15-20 KW. Direct drive with a Love-Joy coupling would be the simplest. Greg |
"Modat22" wrote in message
... On 7 Feb 2005 17:24:00 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote: Found an answer, seems many folks machine a flywheel plate with a 2inch shaft on it, then use a heavy duty lovejoy shaft coupler. Would love a diesel engine but I found a wreck with a rebuilt 4 banger in it for a good price. Keep the transaxle/clutch on the engine. Adapt the CV joint as a PTO to the gen. You will need to run the engine at around maximum torque to get best lifespan/hours efficiency. Then put the transmission into whichever gear to get the best RPM for the generator. |
stanley baer wrote in
: Does anybody know what the efficiency of a lovejoy coupling would be as opposed to removing the front bearing of the generator and coupling it hard as is done with commercial units? The efficiency would be the same. This is two solid coupling ends with a rubber insert, in a 6-eared configuration, but provides a direct connection. Basically, direct drive, with alignment allowance. They are used everywhere in industry, on small to very, very large loads and horsepowers. -- Anthony You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make better idiots. Remove sp to reply via email |
In article ,
Jon Elson wrote: Ignoramus26468 wrote: Have you considered using a system of pulleys? The pulley on the generator head side could be attached to a separate shaft, which would be connected to the head's shaft with a U-joint. Pulleys? For a 25 KW alternator? That could be pretty big! The alternator may not like that much side force on the shaft, either. Another idea I'm thinking about is having a plate machined that would bolt to the flywheel and have a 1.5 inch shaft coming off of it that I could couple to the generator head with a heavy duty rubber insert type coupler. (I'm concerned that this setup would be hard for me to balance, and the stresses on the shaft welded to the plate be to high) Many alternators and generators designed for IC engine drive have a "quill" inside a hollow shaft. This is essentially a torsion spring that allows the engine to vary in speed due to the power strokes without massive torque pulses between the engine and alternator. If this alternator is so equipped, the quill also serves as a coupling, and will take quite a bit of misalignment. They often have a rubber damper (looks like a tiny clutch) to absorb any resonance in the quill. This would work if you can run the motor continuously at the desired RPM, is it 3,600 or 1,800 for those ST heads? Yeah, if its a 3600 RPM alternator. you REALLY don't want to have the car engine wailing away at 3600 RPM all the time. In general, that would indeed be true. But what says you've gotta have the beast mounted directly to the engine? Especially if you've got the tranny sitting right there to go with it. Overall, if I were as worried about the side-loads and alignment as the OP seems to be, I'd take the beast and mount it with a doubled pulley system - triple-belt from tailshaft of tranny, belted onto half of a 6-position pulley on the alternator head, then a triple-belt from the alternator to an idler pulley positioned and tensioned to balance the side-force from the tranny pulley. Presto. You're balanced and aligned as good as you're ever likely to get. Select appropriate gear to give a comfy 3600 on the tailshaft of the tranny, and you run 1:1 pulleys. Dunno about the OP's engine, but if I were to do that with my spare Mazda engine/tranny set, I'd probably have it in third gear with the engine turning right around 27-2800, which is dead in the sweet spot for this little 4-popper/5-speed combo. I'd have to do the math again to figure out exactly where to pin the engine for a dead-on 3600 at the tranny output, but that's trivia. It should be putting out just short of 75 ponies in that configuration. Ought to power a REAL healthy genset... How many watts is 75 horsepower again? I could go with being able to say "Rolling blackout? What's that?" :) Hmmm... Y'all've given me an inspiration... I'll keep you posted on what, if anything, develops. -- Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004. Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address. See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details. |
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:29:37 -0800, Tom wrote:
Modat22 wrote: On 7 Feb 2005 13:19:09 -0800, wrote: Not sure about you generator head, but some have very husky bearings and will work well belt driven. If you do that, I would look at the multiple v belts used on cars and get the pulleys from the local scrap yard. With a belt drive you can drive the generator at something other than the engine speed. Dan The generator head I'm looking at is designed for 1800 rpm and requires a minimum 50 shaft horsepower. A car engine with a modified cruise control (use as governor) will fill that bill easily. I don't trust belts much. Your Ford escort has 50 bhp @ 1800 rpm? Tom After chatting with my mechanic friend looks like I'm going to go with an inline 6 motor since the escort motor will only develop around 25 hp at 1800 rpm unless I put a different cam in it. (Which I don't want to fudge with). The 6 cylinder should develop 45 plus hp at 1800 rpm. |
On 8 Feb 2005 16:24:24 GMT, Ignoramus6625
wrote: On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 16:11:01 GMT, Modat22 wrote: On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:29:37 -0800, Tom wrote: Modat22 wrote: On 7 Feb 2005 13:19:09 -0800, wrote: Not sure about you generator head, but some have very husky bearings and will work well belt driven. If you do that, I would look at the multiple v belts used on cars and get the pulleys from the local scrap yard. With a belt drive you can drive the generator at something other than the engine speed. Dan The generator head I'm looking at is designed for 1800 rpm and requires a minimum 50 shaft horsepower. A car engine with a modified cruise control (use as governor) will fill that bill easily. I don't trust belts much. Your Ford escort has 50 bhp @ 1800 rpm? Tom After chatting with my mechanic friend looks like I'm going to go with an inline 6 motor since the escort motor will only develop around 25 hp at 1800 rpm unless I put a different cam in it. (Which I don't want to fudge with). The 6 cylinder should develop 45 plus hp at 1800 rpm. I cannot help but ask, what is the application that requires your setup to produce 25 kW. Why not choose some lower power output and have a lot less problems? If you choose say 10-12 kW output, you can get away with much smaller, cheaper engines, use less fuel, have more flexibility with choices of couplings etc. The cost is also going to be lower. I believe those ST heads are available in 10 and 15 kW variants. 10 kW is adequate for running a house during an outage, and will even drive central AC nicely, unless you live in a huge mansion. My house is about 5,000 square feet and uses an approximately 7 kW central AC. i Well, I can buy a new 22kw generator head for 650.00 or a 15 kw for 450.00. I can actually buy a complete, running car (for the motor) for 100.00 from a friend which is cheaper than an air cooled motor. I'm not worried about the fuel economy since I'll only run it once in a while for perhaps 8 hours. I figure I can buy the parts and assemble a 22kw generator unit for 1000.00 or a 15 kw generator for 800.00. I'd rather have the larger unit. |
what brand generator head? do you have a web link?
Well, I can buy a new 22kw generator head for 650.00 or a 15 kw for 450.00. I can actually buy a complete, running car (for the motor) for 100.00 from a friend which is cheaper than an air cooled motor. I'm not worried about the fuel economy since I'll only run it once in a while for perhaps 8 hours. I figure I can buy the parts and assemble a 22kw generator unit for 1000.00 or a 15 kw generator for 800.00. I'd rather have the larger unit. |
On Tue, 8 Feb 2005 15:47:13 -0500, "Lucky Strike"
wrote: what brand generator head? do you have a web link? Well, I can buy a new 22kw generator head for 650.00 or a 15 kw for 450.00. I can actually buy a complete, running car (for the motor) for 100.00 from a friend which is cheaper than an air cooled motor. I'm not worried about the fuel economy since I'll only run it once in a while for perhaps 8 hours. I figure I can buy the parts and assemble a 22kw generator unit for 1000.00 or a 15 kw generator for 800.00. I'd rather have the larger unit. ST generator they're an import but very easy to rebuild and the brushes and bearings are standard shelf items in the US. Best spot to purchase them IMO is Ebay, I've bought (2) 5KW heads for family members. Shipping isn't cheap though |
Lucky Strike wrote:
Someone's been reading my mind 8-) How many HP in a VW diesel? Have you considered using triple V-belt and pulleys? Saves on alignment as well. "stanley baer" wrote in message ... Modat22 wrote: On 7 Feb 2005 17:24:00 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote: On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:21:25 GMT, Modat22 wrote: I'm toying with the idea of buying a 25 kw ST generator head and an old ford escort for the motor and misc running hardware. How about a VW Diesel instead? More suited to power generation, better fuel to have around in quantity. I'm trying to think of how I would couple the gen head to the motor flywheel. I'm thinking of getting a stick shift car and leaving the clutch and pressure plate installed then robbing the jack shaft from the transmission. Problem is that I think the generator head alignment would have to be so accurate as to make it unfeasible for me to do at home. Could you use a CV joint in the process, to make alignment less critical? Would anyone have a better idea for me to follow? Maybe alt.energy.homepower would be another group to ask in. Also, google for "cogeneration" (the concept of using the engine both to turn the generator, _and_ to use the radiator as a heat device for the house). Dave Hinz Found an answer, seems many folks machine a flywheel plate with a 2inch shaft on it, then use a heavy duty lovejoy shaft coupler. Would love a diesel engine but I found a wreck with a rebuilt 4 banger in it for a good price. Thanks guys Does anybody know what the efficiency of a lovejoy coupling would be as opposed to removing the front bearing of the generator and coupling it hard as is done with commercial units? I really think getting a vw diesel is worth it if you are planning to use it much. A lightly loaded diesel uses so much less fuel (I would think about 65%) compared to a gas engine. Around here old VW diesels can be bought for about $300 Canadian. I plan to run mine on a mixture of old fry oil and diesel fuel, and use the waste heat from the rad and from the exhust to warm my shop a bit while I am in it. The money that I spend making it and the little leanto it will be housed in (about $1000) will be offset by the cost of burying a 250' line from the house to the garage. In the long run I would like to add a few batteries and an inverter so that I don't have to run the generator unless I am using something big or something three phase. stan I would expect it would have about 18-20 hp at 1800 rpm. It has 50 hp max. A 1.6l or 1.9l turbo one would be more powerful. stan |
Jon Elson wrote:
Modat22 wrote: On 7 Feb 2005 13:19:09 -0800, wrote: Not sure about you generator head, but some have very husky bearings and will work well belt driven. If you do that, I would look at the multiple v belts used on cars and get the pulleys from the local scrap yard. With a belt drive you can drive the generator at something other than the engine speed. Dan The generator head I'm looking at is designed for 1800 rpm and requires a minimum 50 shaft horsepower. A car engine with a modified cruise control (use as governor) will fill that bill easily. I don't trust belts much. Good thinking! 50 shaft HP? I guess maybe that is to deal with the problem of small, air cooled engines being rated on their peak HP. They will melt down if run at rated HP for more than 5 minutes or so. 25 KW should actually absorb 33.5 Hp plus the losses in the alternator. 37 Hp should do it, but of course the engine has to be happy putting out 37 REAL shaft HP continuously. Now that I think about it, the Escort engine may not be happy under your full load. Some highway cruise power numbers I've seen indicate small passenger cars can cruise on 12 - 15 Hp. Of course, there's extra for air cond, power steering, electrical loads, radiator fan, transmission losses (a big one), etc. But, 37 Hp may be equivalent to driving that poor Escort at 100 MPH! Maybe without the accessories and transaxle it may be able to do it, too. Do you really need the full 25 KW? Jon I my limited generator experience, the generator sounds like it is heavily loaded ( and in my case actually slows down well below 1800 rpm) when you start a big motor, once the motor is running the generator has no problem. The welder seems to draw more evenly. stan |
On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 13:24:14 -0600, stanley baer
vaguely proposed a theory .......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email Having worked with a gen set, I am going to run 250 _metres_ of power line to my shop.... The money that I spend making it and the little leanto it will be housed in (about $1000) will be offset by the cost of burying a 250' line from the house to the garage. In the long run I would like to add a few batteries and an inverter so that I don't have to run the generator unless I am using something big or something three phase. stan |
OldNick wrote:
On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 13:24:14 -0600, stanley baer vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email Having worked with a gen set, I am going to run 250 _metres_ of power line to my shop.... Do you use a phase convertor to get your three phase then? |
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